Tower Shanks w/o Barb

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enormous13

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Anyone know of tower shanks that don't have the built-on 90* barb? I'm hoping to find a tower shank that I can screw a John Guest adapter onto, like in this picture:

jpshank90.jpg


The grey fitting is the John Guest adapter I'm referring to.

Thanks!
 
What diameter is your tower - I'm guessing from the pic if it's anything less than a 3" column there's gonna be trouble.
Also, what's the maximum shank length inside the tower do you suppose you could work with using that JG assembly?

I'm not seeing "tower shanks" that come sans some kind of barb - mostly 90°. I did see one that had a compression style barb that could simply be removed leaving some amount of the 7/8"-14 shank threads accessible.

12K03200.jpg


But...it isn't obvious the available shank threads would be long enough to seal the JG fitting. You could have Amazon deliver one and see if it'd work - it'd be a non-destructive test - and send it back if it doesn't work out.

Otherwise you might be stuck cutting the barb off a shank. Dremel with a cut-off wheel ought to work well...

Cheers!
 
What diameter is your tower - I'm guessing from the pic if it's anything less than a 3" column there's gonna be trouble.
Also, what's the maximum shank length inside the tower do you suppose you could work with using that JG assembly?

I'm not seeing "tower shanks" that come sans some kind of barb - mostly 90°. I did see one that had a compression style barb that could simply be removed leaving some amount of the 7/8"-14 shank threads accessible.

12K03200.jpg


But...it isn't obvious the available shank threads would be long enough to seal the JG fitting. You could have Amazon deliver one and see if it'd work - it'd be a non-destructive test - and send it back if it doesn't work out.

Otherwise you might be stuck cutting the barb off a shank. Dremel with a cut-off wheel ought to work well...

Cheers!
I'm conceptualizing a new kegerator that would have a 3" tower. Don't have the tower on hand, so I was hoping other users would have some experience here. Obviously I wouldn't be using a elongated shank like in the pic I attached, I used that picture to illustrate the JG fitting. The shank you show would at least get the 90* barb out of the way easily. Like you point out, it'd be a matter of having enough thread left to get the JG fitting sealed onto the end.
 
I've been thinking about that same setup too, using JG fittings, like you want to do.

Freshwater Systems doesn't seem to have a 90° BSPP adapter, so you're always stuck with connecting those 2 together.
Have you measured the "net length" of the BSPP + 90° adapter? If that's less than 3" there "may be" enough space inside the tower.

But there's definitely NO thread left on the short tower shank after the nut is on to even attach the BSPP onto. Unless you want to try to rely on the BSPP fitting itself to secure the shank at the same time as sealing it. In that case you could always add a washer or 2 to get enough tension. But relying on a plastic threaded fitting to secure the shanks is very gutsy! When you pull the handle or bump the tap all the stress is on that plastic fitting.

Solution:
I think the best and simplest way is to have a short piece of regular (thick walled) beverage tubing over the tower shank's barb. Then use a JG adapter to connect your Ultra 235 line to that. The shorter you keep that regular piece of tubing, the less it will influence your Ultra 235 system. A 3/4 - 1" piece of tubing extending from the barb's end should be plenty.
 
fwiw, I went through the JG site for PP type PTC parts and they've never made a rt angle BSP female to PTC fitting.
Kinda surprised about that...

Cheers!
 
I've been thinking about that same setup too, using JG fittings, like you want to do.

Freshwater Systems doesn't seem to have a 90° BSPP adapter, so you're always stuck with connecting those 2 together.
Have you measured the "net length" of the BSPP + 90° adapter? If that's less than 3" there "may be" enough space inside the tower.

But there's definitely NO thread left on the short tower shank after the nut is on to even attach the BSPP onto. Unless you want to try to rely on the BSPP fitting itself to secure the shank at the same time as sealing it. In that case you could always add a washer or 2 to get enough tension. But relying on a plastic threaded fitting to secure the shanks is very gutsy! When you pull the handle or bump the tap all the stress is on that plastic fitting.

Solution:
I think the best and simplest way is to have a short piece of regular (thick walled) beverage tubing over the tower shank's barb. Then use a JG adapter to connect your Ultra 235 line to that. The shorter you keep that regular piece of tubing, the less it will influence your Ultra 235 system. A 3/4 - 1" piece of tubing extending from the barb's end should be plenty.
I'd have nightmares about using the JG fitting to anchor the shank to the tower lmao. Can already imagine seeing the tower cap explode off like a covered geyser, followed with a keg's worth of pressurized beer.

Just went out an measured the two fittings together. From the base of the BSPP fitting to the end of the elbow we're looking at 2-1/4" comfortably, maybe 2-3/16". Only leaves 3/4" for shank nut and threads on the shank before it runs into the back of the tower, and that's without insulation.

In the solution you bring up, which is great, you mention a barbed JG fitting. I did a quick search but couldn't find a barbed fitting with a female JG on the other end. You could do a barbed x male into a JG coupler, based on what I saw in a quick search. Could you point out the part you were talking about?

EDIT: May have found the part (http://www.beveragecraft.com/john-guest-fitting-5-16-superseal-x-1-4-id-barb/). It has a 1/4" barb, and most tower shanks have 3/16" or 1/4" barbs, so you could use some 3/16 or 1/4" pvc/vinyl tubing to make the union. Keep it short enough, and you'd basically almost have the two barbs almost touching in this union for minimal contact.
 
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In the solution you bring up, which is great, you mention a barbed JG fitting. I did a quick search but couldn't find a barbed fitting with a female JG on the other end. You could do a barbed x male into a JG coupler, based on what I saw in a quick search. Could you point out the part you were talking about?

EDIT: May have found the part (http://www.beveragecraft.com/john-guest-fitting-5-16-superseal-x-1-4-id-barb/). It has a 1/4" barb, and most tower shanks have 3/16" or 1/4" barbs, so you could use some 3/16 or 1/4" pvc/vinyl tubing to make the union. Keep it short enough, and you'd basically almost have the two barbs almost touching in this union for minimal contact.

No, no, I never intended to suggest using a barbed JG fitting anywhere.

Just stick a very short 1.5 - 2" piece of 1/4" ID (1/2" OD) BevLex 200 tubing over the 1/4" OD shank's barb and clamp it.
The other end of that tubing goes into this 1/2 x 5/16 JG Reducing Union.
Your BevLex Ultra 235 line coming from the kegs goes into the Union's 5/16" side.

Done!
 
I understand your idea now with the fittings. My worry there is that PVC line isn't meant to be used in a female JG fitting because of possible leaking (known leaks with gas side). Just figured using a barbed connection for PVC line was better for application.

But regardless, either way could be an easy fix for using Accuflex with JG fittings in a draft tower.
 
I understand your idea now with the fittings. My worry there is that PVC line isn't meant to be used in a female JG fitting because of possible leaking (known leaks with gas side). Just figured using a barbed connection for PVC line was better for application.

But regardless, either way could be an easy fix for using Accuflex with JG fittings in a draft tower.
I too had my doubts using "soft" tubing inside JG fittings, but I've seen many applications doing such. The thick walled BevLex tubing is quite resistant to deforming, especially when inside a tight fitting as the JG.

Maybe someone can acknowledge from experience the JG fittings work fine with "soft" tubing.

I'd keep the BevLex 200 "bridges" as short as possible as they tend to pick up most beer flavors, and introduce oxygen to the beer inside. I can always taste oxidized beer from my BevLex 200 lines and picnic taps I use on location.
 
I too had my doubts using "soft" tubing inside JG fittings, but I've seen many applications doing such. The thick walled BevLex tubing is quite resistant to deforming, especially when inside a tight fitting as the JG.

Maybe someone can acknowledge from experience the JG fittings work fine with "soft" tubing.

I'd keep the BevLex 200 "bridges" as short as possible as they tend to pick up most beer flavors, and introduce oxygen to the beer inside. I can always taste oxidized beer from my BevLex 200 lines and picnic taps I use on location.
Agreed on keeping the bridges short, just wondering how much do you think an inch of BevLex could impact the system? An inch is like 1/120th of a typical draft system using vinyl/pvc tubing, even less for Accuflex length systems. Obviously we all want to reduce those impacts, since we're using Accuflex in the first place.
 
Agreed on keeping the bridges short, just wondering how much do you think an inch of BevLex could impact the system? An inch is like 1/120th of a typical draft system using vinyl/pvc tubing, even less for Accuflex length systems. Obviously we all want to reduce those impacts, since we're using Accuflex in the first place.
There may be another option.
If a short piece of the right diameter, semi-rigid tubing (similar to Ultra 235) can be slid over the tower shank's barb and seal, then a JG Reducing Union will slide over that, with your Ultra 235 on the other side. That way there's no exposed PVC or bug traps in the linkage.

I know BevLex 200 absorbs beer (color) like a sponge, judging by my ultra green (NEIPA) and dark brown (Stout) picnic tap lines. As I mentioned before, the first ounce poured tastes badly oxidized, so it's definitely O2 permeable.
If we can circumvent using any 200 line in our tap systems the better it is. I really don't know how places like World of Beer with 50-100-some taps can have 50-80' of BevLex 200 line stapled along the ceiling in the cold room get away with it. I know they discard the first ounce or so, but lines don't flush cleanly.
 
There may be another option.
If a short piece of the right diameter, semi-rigid tubing (similar to Ultra 235) can be slid over the tower shank's barb and seal, then a JG Reducing Union will slide over that, with your Ultra 235 on the other side. That way there's no exposed PVC or bug traps in the linkage.
Any ideas on a similar enough type of tubing? Basically looking for a lined, non-PVC, flexible enough to go on a barb variant?

I know that Ultra Barrier Silver has been recommended as an upgrade from vinyl lines on here and other places (https://www.williamsbrewing.com/316-EJ-Beverage-Ultra-Barrier-Silver--P4098.aspx). I think it's lined, and I believe it's quite resistant to o2 ingress. OD is 7/16", so it's just a hair under that half-inch your reducer is sized for.
 

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