Those who have an at home RO filter setup

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RyPA

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I found a filter meant for aquariums that I'm considering picking up for homebrew.

I read that it does not eliminate chloramine which I figured I could handle with campden. Has anyone else done something similar?

Aquatic Life RO Buddie Plus DI Four Stage Reverse Osmosis Deionization Unit 50 GPD https://a.co/d/am12hMb
 
How about adding campden to RO filtered water? Does this negate the benefit of using RO to begin with?
 
I don't know about recommendations but deionization is simply unnecessary for brewing water...
Thanks. That seems rather different. Not recommended implies that it's somehow bad. At least to me.

How about adding campden to RO filtered water? Does this negate the benefit of using RO to begin with?
Seems like this would also fall under the heading of unnecessary, since the chlorine and chloramines are already gone. I guess there might still be a LoDO reason to use it, but that's beyond my current level of understanding.
 
It's a fallacy that RODI is ot suitable for drinking. You just need another source of salts for your diet since it strips everything out. The aquarium RODI units can be equipped with filters that will remove chloramine, but there is a debate in the reef community if this is actually warranted or just another upscale expense. The basic carbon filter should do the job for tap water, just not as efficiently as the chloramine filters.


I had the unit you posted (via its predecessor company) for about 7 years - at some point I upgraded the filters to 75GPD. My water company uses chlorine so I can't personally vouch for chloramine, but I did have an inline TDS meter and can attest that it did yield 0 TDS. I even posted reviews on a popular reef forum.

Last year I ungraded to the Bulk Reef Supply 4 stage RODI unit as it's design is much easier to service

BRS does sell just the RO systems (and not the DI0 and they also sell the upgrade filters to remove chloramine, however it's likely your posted unit will be sufficient and a simple pool test strip will be able to tell you right away if it left some chloramine behind.
 
they also sell the upgrade filters to remove chloramine
OK, somebody is going to have to explain this to me. Why wouldn't the basic RO system remove chloramine? If the standard membrane isn't permeable to chloramine, then there must be a lot of other stuff that it's also not permeable to.

Maybe my problem is that I'm used to very expensive lab RO systems that produce water equivalent in purity to triple distilled.
 
OK, somebody is going to have to explain this to me. Why wouldn't the basic RO system remove chloramine? If the standard membrane isn't permeable to chloramine, then there must be a lot of other stuff that it's also not permeable to.

Maybe my problem is that I'm used to very expensive lab RO systems that produce water equivalent in purity to triple distilled.


carbon will remove it, but basic carbon filters are not as efficient as removing chloramine and opposed to chlorine. Reef tank corals are very sensitive to water chemistry and they are very expensive so the hobbyists will spend the extra bucks to be 100% sure. Thus the industry will sell upgraded carbon filters specifically to remove every trace of chloramine which may not be necessary for the home brewer.
 
Thanks. I get the impression that a lot of home brewers do think it's essential to remove every trace of chloramine, but I'm inclined to agree with you.
 
Thanks. I get the impression that a lot of home brewers do think it's essential to remove every trace of chloramine, but I'm inclined to agree with you.


get a pool test kit and check your rods water to be sure. I am sure it will be brew worthy but it will remove any doubt if you need a better grade carbon filter. Also, get the inline TDS meter. They run about $25. This'll save you in filter replacement costs and will prevent using "dirty water" due to old filers. They are push connect so you just cut the line and insert. They usually have two probes, one after the carbon membrane and before the RO and DIs and the second at the outflow. This way you know when it's time to change the RO and DI.
 
Why not just get a standard 50 GPD 5 stage under sink RO system? Did I miss something here.
1. Portable units can be more convenient than under the sink or other set ups.

2. Regardless. Chloramine does not filter out as easily as chlorine. Some users will want a more effective carbon membrane specifically designed to more efficiently filer chloramine. It is debatable if a standard unit will get all the chlorine. A pool test kit can remove any doubt.
 
Of the 2 I posted above, which do you guys think is better? This is strictly for brewing water, which for me is once every 1.5-2 months
 
1. Portable units can be more convenient than under the sink or other set ups.

2. Regardless. Chloramine does not filter out as easily as chlorine. Some users will want a more effective carbon membrane specifically designed to more efficiently filer chloramine. It is debatable if a standard unit will get all the chlorine. A pool test kit can remove any doubt.
I figured portability might be a constraint. There are universal 5 stage portable countertop units available for around $150. So it appears price is also driving this choice.
 
Of the 2 I posted above, which do you guys think is better? This is strictly for brewing water, which for me is once every 1.5-2 months

My units would get the TDS down to 1-2 ppm before the water hit the RO and DI units so I don't think you will need the DI stage for brewing. You may want to get some Campden tablets - one tablet will treat 20 gallons of water - and there are resources to get an idea of how much sulphur it will add if you are seeking to be precise with your water chemistry. But also get that pool chlorine test to see of your RO is leaving any chloramine in the water - you may not need the tablets or not need Tham an first when the carbon is new.

You can always add a chloramine carbon stage or a DI stage later if you think you need it additional filtration from the base unit.
 
One more thing. double check your faucet connections. More and more faucets are coming without standard tap fittings, especially the ones that have the wand and tap in a single combination.
 
As far as portable I mounted my RO system onto the short side my brewstand. It's nothing fancy at all really. I never did mount the water tank but I had planned on putting it on the shelf below the stand.
Yeah I'm going to do something similar to keep it portable. The kit im getting doesn't use a tank so it'll be nice and easy.

And @NSMikeD , yes I have campden tablets but would like to not use them. I'll need to find out where the chloramine is at after RO filtering
 
One more ?.. is there any harm/benefit in getting the DI version, it's only a few bucks extra
 
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One more ?.. is there any harm/benefit in getting the DI version, it's only a few bucks extra

it removes the stuff the other filters cannot. This is important for reef tanks, industrial and medical applications, not so ,such for hoe brewing (trace ions are ok, plus you will be adding salts ). The down side is one more filter to maintain and replace.

fwiw, if I didn't have the fish tank, I would be fine with an RO system.
 
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it removes the stuff the other filters cannot. This is important for reef ranks add industrial and medical applications, not so ,such for hoe brewing (trace ions are ok, plus you will be adding salts ). The down side is one more filter to maintain and replace.

fwiw, if I didn't have the fish tank, I would be fine with an RO system.
Cool thanks, I ordered this one https://a.co/d/aA3lnfU?tag=forumyield-20
 
Spend a few extra bucks, still less than $100 for this one. 5 Stage RO System Tank Drinking Water Free 1 year Extra 7 Filter

For one thing, it uses STANDARD sediment and carbon filter sizes so replacements are cheaper and you can reconfigure the types of prefilters whenever you want. One sediment and two carbon, one of which is a catalytic variety will take care of chloramines before it even gets to the RO membrane.
 
Spend a few extra bucks, still less than $100 for this one. 5 Stage RO System Tank Drinking Water Free 1 year Extra 7 Filter

For one thing, it uses STANDARD sediment and carbon filter sizes so replacements are cheaper and you can reconfigure the types of prefilters whenever you want. One sediment and two carbon, one of which is a catalytic variety will take care of chloramines before it even gets to the RO membrane.
Do you have any experience with this company/kit?..just want to make sure this isn't infomercial stuff.
 
I wasn't implying anything, just was curious if he dealt with them/their products before. I can't find any reviews on YouTube/web.
I have that one, it's the one I linked to above. I've run a little less than 300 gallons through it, no problems so far beyond needing to better secure the float valve (an addon). It's my first RO system though so I can't provide much more of a review than that. If I recall correctly he uses that system at home and in his kitchen. He's not a shill or a spammer.
 
Thanks..I know he's not and wasn't thinking anything like that lol, was just curious if he's speaking/recommending from personal experience, that's all. I've purchased from brewhardware before and know who he is.

I ordered the new one
 
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OK, somebody is going to have to explain this to me. Why wouldn't the basic RO system remove chloramine? If the standard membrane isn't permeable to chloramine, then there must be a lot of other stuff that it's also not permeable to.

Maybe my problem is that I'm used to very expensive lab RO systems that produce water equivalent in purity to triple distilled.
The small gac filter on that unit is designed to be used with very slow flow, AFTER the membrane... but that vendor uses it with fast flow as a prefilter as a way to cut costs. No, it is not suitable for chloramine. You want a chloramine specific carbon block, 10" x 2.5" or larger for that purpose.
 
@Bobby_M @Deadalus can you guys help me out with how these 2 valves should be set after doing step 1? I now need to fill the storage tank 3 times , but the instructions aren't clear on how to set the 2 valves. Should they both be open for normal operation, or should the back gray one be closed?

I just lifted the tank and it's putting on weight so I think it's right as pictured, but just want to be sure
 

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@Bobby_M @Deadalus can you guys help me out with how these 2 valves should be set after doing step 1? I now need to fill the storage tank 3 times , but the instructions aren't clear on how to set the 2 valves. Should they both be open for normal operation, or should the back gray one be closed?

I just lifted the tank and it's putting on weight so I think it's right as pictured, but just want to be sure

I don't have a good enough angle on all the connections to understand the purpose of the valve.
 
I don't have a good enough angle on all the connections to understand the purpose of the valve.
The instructions refer to it as the back drain out valve, they say to open it for the initial flush of pre filters, and then to close it to let water reach the RO membrane. They don't say how to set them for the second startup phase, which I assume is the same as normal operation.

There's only 2 valves on the unit, one up front with red lines and one on the back with gray lines
 
Another thing I wanted to check on is if the instructions are incorrect regarding where to put the rubber gaskets. They do not say to put one here, but they include one to do so, unless its an extra. It would be metal on plastic here so without teflon tape I'd imagine it would leak. I'm no plumbing expert and water connections make me nervous. I'm planning to turn off the water supply before bed and leave it off until I get home from work tomorrow, and then monitor it over the weekend.

Thanks for your recommendation on this unit and for responding

RO.png
 

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