The old is 2000W enough question

[baulz]

I have read a bunch of threads about am still slightly confused about how to plan the rest of my brewery.

Having a young family leaves little time for hobbies, it has been a year to get my brew rig converted from propane to partial electric. Because of a constant reminder from my wife about moving I stuck with using 120v as it was easier, cheaper, and more likely to work at a new house. I have one brew done with the current setup and now working on a plan to convert the BK to electric, possibly with propane assist if needed to get a boil going

HLT - 120v 2000W
RIMS - 120v 1375W
2 PIDs - MyPIN No manual mode
15 Gal BK - Usually do 5 Gal but like the option of doing 10 Gal

With insulation would I be able to keep a boil going with 2000W? I plan to use the HLT PID to control it, there is no space in my panel to add another controller, I would just swap power cords. To get a boil going I would pump though the RIMS tube as well for extra power. Will it even work to boil with the 2000W full blast or will I need a PID with manual control to turn the power down?

I had originally planned to use something like the Still Dragon controller for the BK, but now wonder if I can just take advantage of what I already have. The only extra work would be adding an element and power cord.

 

[stlbeer]

2000w for 10 gallons would only reasonably work to assist gas if it was a heat stick.

It's helpful to review this spreadsheet if you have Excel: http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

It will VERY easily give you times to temp or boil given a volume of water and watts input to yield time to temp or boil.

Everybody should you this to help educate themselves on the feasibility of their plan to go to electric brewing. I didn't build it, but I sure did use it.

 

[iijakii]

Most people can't do a full 5 gal batch with 2000w. You having a large pot will just make it even more so. Just add a second element to the BK and run off separate circuits.

 

[bbohanon]

I used to use my Hot Rod and a 2000w SS element to do 5 gallon AG batches inside all the time. Worked well and heated up everything faster than my flat top stove would. Got a better boil with it as well.

10 Gallon batches with a 2000w element? No way. This is also why I am in the progress of moving to 5500W elements w/240v service for doing 10 gallon batches. The Hot Rod was my "step" into the electric world without spending alot of $$$. I will not go back to gas at this point. Electric is the way to go 100%.

 

[baulz]

I would be happy for now just to do 5 gal all electric and use propane for the occasional 10 gal batch. I'm glad the hot Rod came up, that's part of my dilemma. Should I add a 2000w element weldless to the pot, then add a hot rod with 1500w element as needed?

Shipping from brewhardware to Canada is expensive, but I have family in Florida on holiday I can get it shipped to in the next couple weeks. So there is only one chance to me to get this right. With a new baby on the way it will be another year until I can put much work into the brew rig.

 

[lschiavo]

So a range or dryer receptacle is not available? 240V 30 or 50A can all come with when you move as well except for the receptacle. Time and $ are issues. I can understand that. There are many good, simple and relatively cheap 240V designs around. I just hope you are considering those options as well.

 

[Zepth]

I can barely maintain a 10g boil with 2000w. I usually keep my output closer to 3000w to keep it going well. It may not even be possible to get to a boil with that heat output. Will admit that I'm somewhat surprised that people are saying 2000w can't do a 5 g batch at all.

I use a 240v system that plugs into the stove outlet. That plug has more than enough juice to power the entire brew setup, possibly simultaneously. Sure I need to move the stove a foot or so every brew day to get access to the plug, but it's readily available in all homes.

If you're indoors 2000w + stovetop should do the trick for 10g batches. Leave the element at 100% and fine tune the stove as required to get the vigor of boil that you'd like.

 

[baulz]

So a range or dryer receptacle is not available? 240V 30 or 50A can all come with when you move as well except for the receptacle. Time and $ are issues. I can understand that. There are many good, simple and relatively cheap 240V designs around. I just hope you are considering those options as well.

I brew out in the garage and actually have a 240v 30A receptacle right next to the 20A and 15A 120V circuits for the brewery. I stuck with 120 to avoid buying a Spa panel or 240v GFI breaker, plus the ease of moving to another house. Never expected to go full electric but have now seen the light (bad pun?) and considering options to get the rest of the way.

The problem with a 240V design is that it will never get finished, so I'm looking at easy ways to make more use of the current panel.

Thanks to everyone in this forum for all the help, I have spent a lot of hours reading and learning, it never seems to end!