The Barrel Mimic Experiment

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loveofrose

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I love the flavors a barrel imparts on mead. If I could, almost every mead I make would be put in a barrel. Sadly, this is not possible due to cost (I would make space). As usual, I’ve decided to use science to find the closest mimic through side by side testing.

Searching for viable alternatives to actual barrel aging, I found the following options:
1. Oak cubes: Tried and true, but lacks a fullness of a barrel.
2. Xoakers: Think round oak cubes, but supposedly a bit higher quality.
3. Staves/Winestix: I find the thickness to be lacking here. Cubes are actually better in most cases unless you have a really thick stave. I have no reliable source of thick staves.
4. Liquid Tannins: This is a new product I recently discovered. I’ve never tested it, but it claims to be superior to powder additives such as booster blanc. I’m trying two versions here. Vanilla and fruit enhancer plus. I plan to try a mixture as well. They also have a mocha, but that didn’t sound like the flavor profile I’m going for here.

The question is which method is the closest to a real barrel aged mead? Since no one has published anything about this, I have to do the experiment.

The Experimental Design

For a true side by side test, the only variable that can change is the tannin source. To perform the experiment, a large batch of mead will be made, then split into subsequent tannin testing batches as follows:
1. Barrel Aged Control (Medium Toast Plus American): We must have this to determine what is closest to an actual barrel aged mead.
2. Oak cubes (Medium Toast Plus American)
3. Xoakers (Medium Toast Plus American)
4. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Vanilla
5. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Fruit Enhancer Plus
6. #4 & #5 combined.

Post fermentation, the mead will be exposed to each tannin source. At intervals, the meads will be evaluated blindly for characteristics and evaluated on an overall 10 point scale with 3 criteria:
1. Similarity to a barrel aged mead
2. Improvement of the mead
3. Overall impressions (ie: Do I want more?)

Once optimal barrel levels are reached, meads will be bottled and evaluated over time to determine how they integrate the tannin sources.

I will follow manufacture dosing for cubes and xoakers. For liquid tannin, I’ll follow manufacturers protocol for max dosing. For this experiment, I’m using a particular Wildflower honey that I already know shines in a barrel.

The Mead: Fermentation
Start 2/26/2019

1. For a 12 gallon batch, add 42 lbs of honey to 7.5 gallons of Ozarka spring water (1.140).
2. Add 22.5 g Fermaid K, 18 g KHCO3 & 38 g Fermaid O. Add 38 g Fermaid O at 1.110 (Day 2: 2/28/2019) and 1.080 (Day 4: 3/2/2019).
3. Mix with a drill powered stirrer until honey is dissolved. My drill died. I had to do it with a hand crank.
4. Add a 1 gallon starter of Wyeast 1388. (Began starter 2/20/19. Stepped up from my yeast bank).
5. Ferment at 74 F in a temperature controlled chamber (this is more like 68 F because it’s been cold here). Stir vigorously everyday with a drill powered stirrer.
6. Once terminal gravity is reached (~1.020), cold crash until most yeast have settled.
7. Rack into the following:
-5.3 gallons into the barrel
-1 gallon onto 2 Xoaker spheres
-1 gallon onto 4 cubes
-1 gallon + 3.7 ml Liquid Vanilla Tannin
-1 gallon + 2.5 ml Liquid Fruit Tannin
-1 gallon + 1.85 ml both Liquid Tannins
-1 gallon for untreated control
-1 gallons saved for barrel top off
8. Tastings will be performed at 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months. Longer if needed.

Calculations

I’m just putting these here to help explain some of my logic. Apparently, barrel aging is not quite as efficient as adding spheres/cubes/staves; therefore, much less is needed. Mead in barrels is only exposed to side grains and cannot penetrate into the wood very far. Cubes have end grains and can be fully penetrated (giggity). As a result, cubes/xoakers/staves have more contact surface than that calculated by raw surface area.

From the rough math below, there seems to be a factor of 20-fold built into the barrel alternatives surface area. For example, 6 square inches of xoaker surface area has the oaking potential of 120 square inches of barrel. Of course, none of these barrel alternatives have the micro oxidation effect barrels have.

As a note, I’m using new oak barrels. I really love the full flavor they provide. It is also more relevant to the oak alternatives I am using here.

Barrel Surface Area
Reference: https://www.deepsouthbarrels.com/page/barrel-dimensions/barrel-dimensions

In terms I understand (combining metric and standard is just strange):
For 1.32 gallon barrel, 431 square inches per gallon.
For 5.3 gallon barrel, 260 square inches per gallon.
For 53 gallon barrel, 123 square inches per gallon.

Xoakers
1” sphere: 4*pi*r^2 = 3.14 square inches per gallon per sphere.
-Add 2 per gallon for 6.28 square inches per gallon.
-Need 39 per gallon to equal the raw surface area of a 53 gallon barrel. Using our 20-fold factor, only 2 xoakers are needed per gallon to equal a 53 gallon barrel.

Cubes
Roughly 0.5 inch cubes: 6*a^2 or 1.5 square inches per cube.
-Add 4.18 to equal 2 Xoakers. Call it 4.

Vanilla Liquid Tannin (4 oz = 118.29 ml)
-Low dose: 4 oz>313 gallons
—-0.38 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>32 gallons
—-3.7 ml per gallon
My reason for using high dose is my desire for intense oak.

Fruit Enhancer Plus Liquid Tannin
-Low dose: 4 oz>125 gallons
—-0.95 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>47 gallons
—-2.51 ml per gallon[/QUOTE]
 
I love the flavors a barrel imparts on mead. If I could, almost every mead I make would be put in a barrel. Sadly, this is not possible due to cost (I would make space). As usual, I’ve decided to use science to find the closest mimic through side by side testing.

Searching for viable alternatives to actual barrel aging, I found the following options:
1. Oak cubes: Tried and true, but lacks a fullness of a barrel.
2. Xoakers: Think round oak cubes, but supposedly a bit higher quality.
3. Staves/Winestix: I find the thickness to be lacking here. Cubes are actually better in most cases unless you have a really thick stave. I have no reliable source of thick staves.
4. Liquid Tannins: This is a new product I recently discovered. I’ve never tested it, but it claims to be superior to powder additives such as booster blanc. I’m trying two versions here. Vanilla and fruit enhancer plus. I plan to try a mixture as well. They also have a mocha, but that didn’t sound like the flavor profile I’m going for here.

The question is which method is the closest to a real barrel aged mead? Since no one has published anything about this, I have to do the experiment.

The Experimental Design

For a true side by side test, the only variable that can change is the tannin source. To perform the experiment, a large batch of mead will be made, then split into subsequent tannin testing batches as follows:
1. Barrel Aged Control (Medium Toast Plus American): We must have this to determine what is closest to an actual barrel aged mead.
2. Oak cubes (Medium Toast Plus American)
3. Xoakers (Medium Toast Plus American)
4. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Vanilla
5. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Fruit Enhancer Plus
6. #4 & #5 combined.

Post fermentation, the mead will be exposed to each tannin source. At intervals, the meads will be evaluated blindly for characteristics and evaluated on an overall 10 point scale with 3 criteria:
1. Similarity to a barrel aged mead
2. Improvement of the mead
3. Overall impressions (ie: Do I want more?)

Once optimal barrel levels are reached, meads will be bottled and evaluated over time to determine how they integrate the tannin sources.

I will follow manufacture dosing for cubes and xoakers. For liquid tannin, I’ll follow manufacturers protocol for max dosing. For this experiment, I’m using a particular Wildflower honey that I already know shines in a barrel.

The Mead: Fermentation
Start 2/26/2019

1. For a 12 gallon batch, add 42 lbs of honey to 7.5 gallons of Ozarka spring water (1.140).
2. Add 22.5 g Fermaid K, 18 g KHCO3 & 38 g Fermaid O. Add 38 g Fermaid O at 1.110 (Day 2: 2/28/2019) and 1.080 (Day 4: 3/2/2019).
3. Mix with a drill powered stirrer until honey is dissolved. My drill died. I had to do it with a hand crank.
4. Add a 1 gallon starter of Wyeast 1388. (Began starter 2/20/19. Stepped up from my yeast bank).
5. Ferment at 74 F in a temperature controlled chamber (this is more like 68 F because it’s been cold here). Stir vigorously everyday with a drill powered stirrer.
6. Once terminal gravity is reached (~1.020), cold crash until most yeast have settled.
7. Rack into the following:
-5.3 gallons into the barrel
-1 gallon onto 2 Xoaker spheres
-1 gallon onto 4 cubes
-1 gallon + 3.7 ml Liquid Vanilla Tannin
-1 gallon + 2.5 ml Liquid Fruit Tannin
-1 gallon + 1.85 ml both Liquid Tannins
-1 gallon for untreated control
-1 gallons saved for barrel top off
8. Tastings will be performed at 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months. Longer if needed.

Calculations

I’m just putting these here to help explain some of my logic. Apparently, barrel aging is not quite as efficient as adding spheres/cubes/staves; therefore, much less is needed. Mead in barrels is only exposed to side grains and cannot penetrate into the wood very far. Cubes have end grains and can be fully penetrated (giggity). As a result, cubes/xoakers/staves have more contact surface than that calculated by raw surface area.

From the rough math below, there seems to be a factor of 20-fold built into the barrel alternatives surface area. For example, 6 square inches of xoaker surface area has the oaking potential of 120 square inches of barrel. Of course, none of these barrel alternatives have the micro oxidation effect barrels have.

As a note, I’m using new oak barrels. I really love the full flavor they provide. It is also more relevant to the oak alternatives I am using here.

Barrel Surface Area
Reference: https://www.deepsouthbarrels.com/page/barrel-dimensions/barrel-dimensions

In terms I understand (combining metric and standard is just strange):
For 1.32 gallon barrel, 431 square inches per gallon.
For 5.3 gallon barrel, 260 square inches per gallon.
For 53 gallon barrel, 123 square inches per gallon.

Xoakers
1” sphere: 4*pi*r^2 = 3.14 square inches per gallon per sphere.
-Add 2 per gallon for 6.28 square inches per gallon.
-Need 39 per gallon to equal the raw surface area of a 53 gallon barrel. Using our 20-fold factor, only 2 xoakers are needed per gallon to equal a 53 gallon barrel.

Cubes
Roughly 0.5 inch cubes: 6*a^2 or 1.5 square inches per cube.
-Add 4.18 to equal 2 Xoakers. Call it 4.

Vanilla Liquid Tannin (4 oz = 118.29 ml)
-Low dose: 4 oz>313 gallons
—-0.38 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>32 gallons
—-3.7 ml per gallon
My reason for using high dose is my desire for intense oak.

Fruit Enhancer Plus Liquid Tannin
-Low dose: 4 oz>125 gallons
—-0.95 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>47 gallons
—-2.51 ml per gallon
[/QUOTE]Intense! Looking forward to hearing this bad boy unfold [emoji111]
 
I love the flavors a barrel imparts on mead. If I could, almost every mead I make would be put in a barrel. Sadly, this is not possible due to cost (I would make space). As usual, I’ve decided to use science to find the closest mimic through side by side testing.

Searching for viable alternatives to actual barrel aging, I found the following options:
1. Oak cubes: Tried and true, but lacks a fullness of a barrel.
2. Xoakers: Think round oak cubes, but supposedly a bit higher quality.
3. Staves/Winestix: I find the thickness to be lacking here. Cubes are actually better in most cases unless you have a really thick stave. I have no reliable source of thick staves.
4. Liquid Tannins: This is a new product I recently discovered. I’ve never tested it, but it claims to be superior to powder additives such as booster blanc. I’m trying two versions here. Vanilla and fruit enhancer plus. I plan to try a mixture as well. They also have a mocha, but that didn’t sound like the flavor profile I’m going for here.

The question is which method is the closest to a real barrel aged mead? Since no one has published anything about this, I have to do the experiment.

The Experimental Design

For a true side by side test, the only variable that can change is the tannin source. To perform the experiment, a large batch of mead will be made, then split into subsequent tannin testing batches as follows:
1. Barrel Aged Control (Medium Toast Plus American): We must have this to determine what is closest to an actual barrel aged mead.
2. Oak cubes (Medium Toast Plus American)
3. Xoakers (Medium Toast Plus American)
4. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Vanilla
5. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Fruit Enhancer Plus
6. #4 & #5 combined.

Post fermentation, the mead will be exposed to each tannin source. At intervals, the meads will be evaluated blindly for characteristics and evaluated on an overall 10 point scale with 3 criteria:
1. Similarity to a barrel aged mead
2. Improvement of the mead
3. Overall impressions (ie: Do I want more?)

Once optimal barrel levels are reached, meads will be bottled and evaluated over time to determine how they integrate the tannin sources.

I will follow manufacture dosing for cubes and xoakers. For liquid tannin, I’ll follow manufacturers protocol for max dosing. For this experiment, I’m using a particular Wildflower honey that I already know shines in a barrel.

The Mead: Fermentation
Start 2/26/2019

1. For a 12 gallon batch, add 42 lbs of honey to 7.5 gallons of Ozarka spring water (1.140).
2. Add 22.5 g Fermaid K, 18 g KHCO3 & 38 g Fermaid O. Add 38 g Fermaid O at 1.110 (Day 2: 2/28/2019) and 1.080 (Day 4: 3/2/2019).
3. Mix with a drill powered stirrer until honey is dissolved. My drill died. I had to do it with a hand crank.
4. Add a 1 gallon starter of Wyeast 1388. (Began starter 2/20/19. Stepped up from my yeast bank).
5. Ferment at 74 F in a temperature controlled chamber (this is more like 68 F because it’s been cold here). Stir vigorously everyday with a drill powered stirrer.
6. Once terminal gravity is reached (~1.020), cold crash until most yeast have settled.
7. Rack into the following:
-5.3 gallons into the barrel
-1 gallon onto 2 Xoaker spheres
-1 gallon onto 4 cubes
-1 gallon + 3.7 ml Liquid Vanilla Tannin
-1 gallon + 2.5 ml Liquid Fruit Tannin
-1 gallon + 1.85 ml both Liquid Tannins
-1 gallon for untreated control
-1 gallons saved for barrel top off
8. Tastings will be performed at 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months. Longer if needed.

Calculations

I’m just putting these here to help explain some of my logic. Apparently, barrel aging is not quite as efficient as adding spheres/cubes/staves; therefore, much less is needed. Mead in barrels is only exposed to side grains and cannot penetrate into the wood very far. Cubes have end grains and can be fully penetrated (giggity). As a result, cubes/xoakers/staves have more contact surface than that calculated by raw surface area.

From the rough math below, there seems to be a factor of 20-fold built into the barrel alternatives surface area. For example, 6 square inches of xoaker surface area has the oaking potential of 120 square inches of barrel. Of course, none of these barrel alternatives have the micro oxidation effect barrels have.

As a note, I’m using new oak barrels. I really love the full flavor they provide. It is also more relevant to the oak alternatives I am using here.

Barrel Surface Area
Reference: https://www.deepsouthbarrels.com/page/barrel-dimensions/barrel-dimensions

In terms I understand (combining metric and standard is just strange):
For 1.32 gallon barrel, 431 square inches per gallon.
For 5.3 gallon barrel, 260 square inches per gallon.
For 53 gallon barrel, 123 square inches per gallon.

Xoakers
1” sphere: 4*pi*r^2 = 3.14 square inches per gallon per sphere.
-Add 2 per gallon for 6.28 square inches per gallon.
-Need 39 per gallon to equal the raw surface area of a 53 gallon barrel. Using our 20-fold factor, only 2 xoakers are needed per gallon to equal a 53 gallon barrel.

Cubes
Roughly 0.5 inch cubes: 6*a^2 or 1.5 square inches per cube.
-Add 4.18 to equal 2 Xoakers. Call it 4.

Vanilla Liquid Tannin (4 oz = 118.29 ml)
-Low dose: 4 oz>313 gallons
—-0.38 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>32 gallons
—-3.7 ml per gallon
My reason for using high dose is my desire for intense oak.

Fruit Enhancer Plus Liquid Tannin
-Low dose: 4 oz>125 gallons
—-0.95 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>47 gallons
—-2.51 ml per gallon
[/QUOTE]

I wonder how much variation there is from one piece of wood to the next, regardless of what form or shape it takes. One would hope that the cube/stave/whatever manufacturers have somehow standardized it so that you get the same results each time.

Out of curiosity: you mentioned on a different thread recently that you didn't like chips, and so I presume the same for sawdust. Yet, either of those would have much more surface area, by weight, than the forms you are considering. What is the reason you don't like them?
 
At intervals, the meads will be evaluated blindly for characteristics and evaluated on an overall 10 point scale with 3 criteria:
1. Similarity to a barrel aged mead
2. Improvement of the mead
3. Overall impressions (ie: Do I want more?)

I'd do triangle tests.

It seems what you're wanting to know is "are alternatives to barrel aging similar enough to actual barrel aging?"

That a perfect set up for triangle tests.
 

I wonder how much variation there is from one piece of wood to the next, regardless of what form or shape it takes. One would hope that the cube/stave/whatever manufacturers have somehow standardized it so that you get the same results each time.

Out of curiosity: you mentioned on a different thread recently that you didn't like chips, and so I presume the same for sawdust. Yet, either of those would have much more surface area, by weight, than the forms you are considering. What is the reason you don't like them?[/QUOTE]

The problem with chips as there is too much surface area and not enough thickness to provide multiple levels of toast. Too much surface area leads to over oaking before you have drawn out the full complexity of the oak. Combine this with thin chips that lack the multiple toast levels as you go deeper into the wood and you are left with a very one dimensional product.
 
I'd do triangle tests.

It seems what you're wanting to know is "are alternatives to barrel aging similar enough to actual barrel aging?"

That a perfect set up for triangle tests.

I would love to do a triangle test, perhaps I’ll enlist my Homebrew club.
 
Those wine tannins add oak flavor?

That's not normal.

The bag I received from amazon looks a little different from what's in the product photo. It says, "Vintner's Best Wine Tannin" and "Contains: Chestnut Wood Tannin" and "Packaged in UK for LDCarlson".

I'm not sure how it was derived, but it has a very definite wood tannin flavor. Adding it to my mead yielded a pleasant tannic flavor similar to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Go figure.
 
Last edited:
The bag I received from amazon looks a little different from what's in the product photo. It says, "Vintner's Best Wine Tannin" and "Contains: Chestnut Wood Tannin" and "Packaged in UK for LDCarlson".

I'm not sure how it was derived, but it has a very definite wood tannin flavor. Adding it to my mead yielded a pleasant flavor similar to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Go figure.
How much did ya add per gal?
 
I did it to taste, so I didn't measure. More than the recommended amount I'm sure.
 
What are the prevailing thoughts on taking the cubes and soaking them in vodka for a week or so, then adding water and boiling for a few hours? Or perhaps using an Instant-Pot to extract the tannins and flavors, then simply adding the liquid to the secondary or finished product?

Would you get good extraction from either of the steps? Is something lost in this accelerated process that only actual time in contact with the wood can reproduce?
 
The problem with chips as there is too much surface area and not enough thickness to provide multiple levels of toast. Too much surface area leads to over oaking before you have drawn out the full complexity of the oak. Combine this with thin chips that lack the multiple toast levels as you go deeper into the wood and you are left with a very one dimensional product.


There are way too may variables to validate the above assertion.
What might work for you is to use 1 gallon jugs, using chips, cubes, spirals and staves with varying toast levels and then do some blending to get the flavor you desire.
Note that French Oak and American Oak have different tannin levels. and staves that have been used in barrels are going to have a different contribution compared to oak that hasn't already been a barrel.
You could also toast chips or cubes yourself and try to find the right ratio of toast levels.
To make things more interesting, you could try wood species that aren't unusually used in barrels. Not everything with wood has to be tannins and toast. Check this out for the different flavors you can get:

http://www.nordeastbrewersalliance.org/education/2016-experiments/wood-aging-experiment/
 
Last edited:
Hm. I have quite a bit of well aged old growth cherry lumber in my garage, for wood working. I suppose I could cut a few staves, toast them, and given them a try on part of my next batch of mead.
 
Nothing has touched oak yet. Fermentation is finished and I am cold crashing most of the yeast. Once enough clarity is achieved, I’ll rack to oak.
 
The problem with chips as there is too much surface area and not enough thickness to provide multiple levels of toast. Too much surface area leads to over oaking before you have drawn out the full complexity of the oak. Combine this with thin chips that lack the multiple toast levels as you go deeper into the wood and you are left with a very one dimensional product.


There are way too may variables to validate the above assertion.
What might work for you is to use 1 gallon jugs, using chips, cubes, spirals and staves with varying toast levels and then do some blending to get the flavor you desire.
Note that French Oak and American Oak have different tannin levels. and staves that have been used in barrels are going to have a different contribution compared to oak that hasn't already been a barrel.
You could also toast chips or cubes yourself and try to find the right ratio of toast levels.
To make things more interesting, you could try wood species that aren't unusually used in barrels. Not everything with wood has to be tannins and toast. Check this out for the different flavors you can get:

http://www.nordeastbrewersalliance.org/education/2016-experiments/wood-aging-experiment/

I’ve used chips enough to know this from experience. I’m not alone in this either. Most of the mead judges agree as well. I’ve done the experiment. Try it for yourself and see.

Personally, I’ve used acacia and cherry wood. They both impart very different flavors. They can both be very good in the right recipe. I imagine there is more to discover.
 
If you're looking for good barrels and solid products go to this website. I have 3 barrels from them (2 five gallon barrels and 1 one gallon) I have three Mead flavors I love that I brew often and I age them in my barrels, it makes all the difference. Prices are very reasonable and they will even laser engrave anything on the barrel for free.

http://www.barrelsonline.com/BrowseProducts.aspx
 
If you're looking for good barrels and solid products go to this website. I have 3 barrels from them (2 five gallon barrels and 1 one gallon) I have three Mead flavors I love that I brew often and I age them in my barrels, it makes all the difference. Prices are very reasonable and they will even laser engrave anything on the barrel for free.

http://www.barrelsonline.com/BrowseProducts.aspx

Seems they have their own barrel alternative that looks to actually be charred and not toasted. That may give the varying level of toast and could be ready substitute for barrel staves.
 
If you're looking for good barrels and solid products go to this website. I have 3 barrels from them (2 five gallon barrels and 1 one gallon) I have three Mead flavors I love that I brew often and I age them in my barrels, it makes all the difference. Prices are very reasonable and they will even laser engrave anything on the barrel for free.

http://www.barrelsonline.com/BrowseProducts.aspx
How many uses do you get out of a barrel before it's "used up"?
 
Seems they have their own barrel alternative that looks to actually be charred and not toasted. That may give the varying level of toast and could be ready substitute for barrel staves.
Yes, their oak infusion sticks look to go through the same process as their barrels. I'm extremely happy with the taste of my mead when I pull them from the barrels. The sticks I think are about $7 but I have never tried them.
 
How many uses do you get out of a barrel before it's "used up"?
Not entirely sure, obviously over time the taste will be more mild the more I use them, so far I have put about 3 batches in each barrel and still have good results from aging.
 
I love the flavors a barrel imparts on mead. If I could, almost every mead I make would be put in a barrel. Sadly, this is not possible due to cost (I would make space). As usual, I’ve decided to use science to find the closest mimic through side by side testing.

Searching for viable alternatives to actual barrel aging, I found the following options:
1. Oak cubes: Tried and true, but lacks a fullness of a barrel.
2. Xoakers: Think round oak cubes, but supposedly a bit higher quality.
3. Staves/Winestix: I find the thickness to be lacking here. Cubes are actually better in most cases unless you have a really thick stave. I have no reliable source of thick staves.
4. Liquid Tannins: This is a new product I recently discovered. I’ve never tested it, but it claims to be superior to powder additives such as booster blanc. I’m trying two versions here. Vanilla and fruit enhancer plus. I plan to try a mixture as well. They also have a mocha, but that didn’t sound like the flavor profile I’m going for here.

The question is which method is the closest to a real barrel aged mead? Since no one has published anything about this, I have to do the experiment.

The Experimental Design

For a true side by side test, the only variable that can change is the tannin source. To perform the experiment, a large batch of mead will be made, then split into subsequent tannin testing batches as follows:
1. Barrel Aged Control (Medium Toast Plus American): We must have this to determine what is closest to an actual barrel aged mead.
2. Oak cubes (Medium Toast Plus American)
3. Xoakers (Medium Toast Plus American)
4. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Vanilla
5. Toasted Oak Liquid Tannin - Fruit Enhancer Plus
6. #4 & #5 combined.

Post fermentation, the mead will be exposed to each tannin source. At intervals, the meads will be evaluated blindly for characteristics and evaluated on an overall 10 point scale with 3 criteria:
1. Similarity to a barrel aged mead
2. Improvement of the mead
3. Overall impressions (ie: Do I want more?)

Once optimal barrel levels are reached, meads will be bottled and evaluated over time to determine how they integrate the tannin sources.

I will follow manufacture dosing for cubes and xoakers. For liquid tannin, I’ll follow manufacturers protocol for max dosing. For this experiment, I’m using a particular Wildflower honey that I already know shines in a barrel.

The Mead: Fermentation
Start 2/26/2019

1. For a 12 gallon batch, add 42 lbs of honey to 7.5 gallons of Ozarka spring water (1.140).
2. Add 22.5 g Fermaid K, 18 g KHCO3 & 38 g Fermaid O. Add 38 g Fermaid O at 1.110 (Day 2: 2/28/2019) and 1.080 (Day 4: 3/2/2019).
3. Mix with a drill powered stirrer until honey is dissolved. My drill died. I had to do it with a hand crank.
4. Add a 1 gallon starter of Wyeast 1388. (Began starter 2/20/19. Stepped up from my yeast bank).
5. Ferment at 74 F in a temperature controlled chamber (this is more like 68 F because it’s been cold here). Stir vigorously everyday with a drill powered stirrer.
6. Once terminal gravity is reached (~1.020), cold crash until most yeast have settled.
7. Rack into the following:
-5.3 gallons into the barrel
-1 gallon onto 2 Xoaker spheres
-1 gallon onto 4 cubes
-1 gallon + 3.7 ml Liquid Vanilla Tannin
-1 gallon + 2.5 ml Liquid Fruit Tannin
-1 gallon + 1.85 ml both Liquid Tannins
-1 gallon for untreated control
-1 gallons saved for barrel top off
8. Tastings will be performed at 2 weeks, 1 month, 2 months. Longer if needed.

Calculations

I’m just putting these here to help explain some of my logic. Apparently, barrel aging is not quite as efficient as adding spheres/cubes/staves; therefore, much less is needed. Mead in barrels is only exposed to side grains and cannot penetrate into the wood very far. Cubes have end grains and can be fully penetrated (giggity). As a result, cubes/xoakers/staves have more contact surface than that calculated by raw surface area.

From the rough math below, there seems to be a factor of 20-fold built into the barrel alternatives surface area. For example, 6 square inches of xoaker surface area has the oaking potential of 120 square inches of barrel. Of course, none of these barrel alternatives have the micro oxidation effect barrels have.

As a note, I’m using new oak barrels. I really love the full flavor they provide. It is also more relevant to the oak alternatives I am using here.

Barrel Surface Area
Reference: https://www.deepsouthbarrels.com/page/barrel-dimensions/barrel-dimensions

In terms I understand (combining metric and standard is just strange):
For 1.32 gallon barrel, 431 square inches per gallon.
For 5.3 gallon barrel, 260 square inches per gallon.
For 53 gallon barrel, 123 square inches per gallon.

Xoakers
1” sphere: 4*pi*r^2 = 3.14 square inches per gallon per sphere.
-Add 2 per gallon for 6.28 square inches per gallon.
-Need 39 per gallon to equal the raw surface area of a 53 gallon barrel. Using our 20-fold factor, only 2 xoakers are needed per gallon to equal a 53 gallon barrel.

Cubes
Roughly 0.5 inch cubes: 6*a^2 or 1.5 square inches per cube.
-Add 4.18 to equal 2 Xoakers. Call it 4.

Vanilla Liquid Tannin (4 oz = 118.29 ml)
-Low dose: 4 oz>313 gallons
—-0.38 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>32 gallons
—-3.7 ml per gallon
My reason for using high dose is my desire for intense oak.

Fruit Enhancer Plus Liquid Tannin
-Low dose: 4 oz>125 gallons
—-0.95 ml per gallon
-High dose: 4 oz>47 gallons
—-2.51 ml per gallon
[/QUOTE]

What about oak spiral? Or is that similar enough to cubes that it doesn't matter?
 
My experience with oak spirals is that they are much like chips. Not quite as bad, but still too fast and too thin to provide adequate depth of flavor. I really wish I could send you all some Barrel aged mead so that you could appreciate how different the profile is. Indescribably better.
 

What about oak spiral? Or is that similar enough to cubes that it doesn't matter?[/QUOTE]A friend of mine added a portion of an oak spiral to an orange blossom traditional a few weeks ago... It made it taste like whiskey almost. Great if you want your Mead to taste like whiskey but I was not impressed.
 
The problem with chips as there is too much surface area and not enough thickness to provide multiple levels of toast. Too much surface area leads to over oaking before you have drawn out the full complexity of the oak. Combine this with thin chips that lack the multiple toast levels as you go deeper into the wood and you are left with a very one dimensional product.
I've only used oak a few times - in beer - and it was always chips. I toss about 90% of them in an oven at ~250F and then pull another 10% or so every five minutes. That way I get a range of toast levels. However, I've always started with medium toast chips, so this method gives me a darker profile that's more suitable for dark beers that can handle some oak char rather than something that you'd normally age on medium toast oak. It would probably be better to start with light toast or even raw oak to mimic the multi-layered contribution of cubes or other larger chunks of oak. Either way, there's still the issue of surface area so it's going to work much faster, but with a variable toast across the batch of chips, you've at least got some range.
 
I really wish I could send you all some Barrel aged mead so that you could appreciate how different the profile is. Indescribably better.

Me too! Are there any commercial meads like that which are up to snuff? If so, I'd buy some just to get a jump on what you guys are talking about!
 
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It has begun. Everything went as I described it. Now we wait for the 2 week time point.
IMG_0003.JPG
 
My experience with oak spirals is that they are much like chips. Not quite as bad, but still too fast and too thin to provide adequate depth of flavor. I really wish I could send you all some Barrel aged mead so that you could appreciate how different the profile is. Indescribably better.
How long do u typically barrel age it? Cheers [emoji111]
 
If you're looking for good barrels and solid products go to this website. I have 3 barrels from them (2 five gallon barrels and 1 one gallon) I have three Mead flavors I love that I brew often and I age them in my barrels, it makes all the difference. Prices are very reasonable and they will even laser engrave anything on the barrel for free.

http://www.barrelsonline.com/BrowseProducts.aspx
How many uses do ya get out of a barrel?

What's you typical aging time?

Cheers [emoji111]
 
I age it until it’s done! It really depends on the mead. It can range from 1 month to 6 months.

Barrel can be used for up to 75 years providing they do not sour. Over time, they become more neutral and impart less flavor.
 
I age it until it’s done! It really depends on the mead. It can range from 1 month to 6 months.

Barrel can be used for up to 75 years providing they do not sour. Over time, they become more neutral and impart less flavor.
Does ABV affect amount of flavor drawn out of the barrel?
 
It affects the speed of which the flavor is drawn out, but you can get equal flavor with more time.
When barrel aging:

- do u just let it sit the entire time or agitate it periodically?

- once aging is complete I assume u rack it into bottles etc? (Or do ya just serve right from the barrel)

- what room temp range are you keeping the barrels at? Is there much evaporation?

Thanks & Cheers [emoji111]
 
When barrel aging:

- do u just let it sit the entire time or agitate it periodically?

- once aging is complete I assume u rack it into bottles etc? (Or do ya just serve right from the barrel)

- what room temp range are you keeping the barrels at? Is there much evaporation?

Thanks & Cheers [emoji111]

1. It sits without agitation.

2. Serving from the barrel only works for a crowd. Airspace is bad for barrels. I typically rack to a carboy for clearing, then bottle.

3. My barrels are in a garage so the temperatures range from 30-98 F. I follow the same idea as whiskey aging. Low temps pull mead out of the oak and warm duck the mead into the oak. This flux helps the mead get the full range of oak flavor.

4. There is some angels share. I tend to top off every 2-4 weeks depending on temperatures.
 
1. It sits without agitation.

2. Serving from the barrel only works for a crowd. Airspace is bad for barrels. I typically rack to a carboy for clearing, then bottle.

3. My barrels are in a garage so the temperatures range from 30-98 F. I follow the same idea as whiskey aging. Low temps pull mead out of the oak and warm duck the mead into the oak. This flux helps the mead get the full range of oak flavor.

4. There is some angels share. I tend to top off every 2-4 weeks depending on temperatures.
When u rack from barrel to carboy...do u siphon out the top hole or use the spigot?
 
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