Texas Two Step Experiences?

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sailorsam

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I am an extract brewer with a bad stove and a lack of space - specifically, I have no place to safely use a turkey fryer. I have been reading snippets about the Texas Two Step technique all day, but there is not a lot of discussion out there on it...

I'm very fond of bitter, hoppy beers and I was disappointed to learn earlier that partial boils can't really deliver upwards of 40-50 IBU... (Makes sense, I just took for granted that brewing software accounted for the topup dilution)

Can anyone share their particular experiences with the TTS split batch technique?

Using TTS methods, can you brew beer on par with full wort boils?

Or are there pitfalls/flaws/hazards associated with this practice?

It sounds bad enough that I have to do double the work - I just want to make sure that it's not a huge waste of my limited brewing time!

If I could actually hit 70-100 IBUs using the Texas Two Step for a high quality IPA, then I would consider that a worthwhile investment...
 
It doesn't seem to be too widespread - Chris Colby at Brew Your Own seems to be cited frequently as its proponent. "Texas Two Step" is probably just his catchy name for an uncommon process...

It essentially seems to involve splitting the boil between two pots and then combining the wort in the carboy that day or even the day after.

It sounds like it maximizes hop utilization for partial boilers like me, but since I only have one large burner it will double my effort and brewing time... So that's why I'm interested in people's actual experiences with this technique, to determine if it's worth the hassle...

There's not a lot of specific instructions for the Texas Two Step, but thats the gist of it. Sorry, I haven't given a great description, but I don't know much about it myself...
 
sailorsam said:
It doesn't seem to be too widespread - Chris Colby at Brew Your Own seemsI to be cited frequently as its proponent. "Texas Two Step" is probably just his catchy name for an uncommon process...

It essentially seems to involve splitting the boil between two pots and then combining the wort in the carboy that day or even the day after.

It sounds like it maximizes hop utilization for partial boilers like me, but since I only have one large burner it will double my effort and brewing time... So that's why I'm interested in people's actual experiences with this technique, to determine if it's worth the hassle...

There's not a lot of specific instructions for the Texas Two Step, but thats the gist of it. Sorry, I haven't given a great description, but I don't know much about it myself...

I split boil due to space. You have to take into consideration the loss of volume is double between two boil pots. Once you figure out the process, you will make good beer. I suggest splitting your extract up and adding some at flameout for better hop utilization. I figured this out after a few of my first extract batches and got a more desirable hop profile.
 
Maddad,

I am glad you've had some success with the split boils.

How do you handle specialty grains or partial mashing?
For example, do you have to repeat the process exactly between both "batches"?

I suppose you do need to complete two separate partial mashes/steeps in order to maximize your hoppiness, because the gravity would be quite a bit different between each pot...

Also, I have been doing late extract additions like you mentioned since my second or third batch - it really makes a difference if you are going for the lighter or hoppier styles. (I typically add it around 10 minutes simply because it takes a long time to mix the DME completely into the wort) Thanks for the tip, though...
 
Maddad,

I am glad you've had some success with the split boils.

How do you handle specialty grains or partial mashing?
For example, do you have to repeat the process exactly between both "batches"?

I suppose you do need to complete two separate partial mashes/steeps in order to maximize your hoppiness, because the gravity would be quite a bit different between each pot...

Also, I have been doing late extract additions like you mentioned since my second or third batch - it really makes a difference if you are going for the lighter or hoppier styles. (I typically add it around 10 minutes simply because it takes a long time to mix the DME completely into the wort) Thanks for the tip, though...

My situation is a bit different as I switched to All Grain late last year. It did not take me more than five extract batches to make the jump. When I did extract, I first started partial boil and then switched to full boil between two kettles. Until my kids get a little older, I have to brew in the kitchen to keep an eye on them. I cannot fit anything bigger than a 5gal kettle on my stove so I have to split the wort up. I tried experimenting and splitting all the additions between two kettles and then tried steeping in one and adding hops to the other. I could not validate results from either process and found that the beer was good either way. The main hurdle was trying to control boil off rates for two kettles with regards to gravity and volume. The boiling process had me adjusting my pre-boil volume until I figured it out. I have not had any off flavors due to this process but have adopted the method of splitting my hops between the two kettles. Hope this helps. Late hop additions have really given my hop heavy styles more flavor and aroma than the 60-30-15 additions. For hop heavy brews I use a 60-20-15-10-5 schedule and dry hop. Hops are now my most expensive ingredient:eek:
 
I'll try to help you out, but I need to know what kind of equipment you have and more info about your brewing process.

How big is your kettle?
Do you have two kettles?
Extract brewer, partial mash, all grain?
Size of your carboys/buckets?
Desired minimum/maximum batch size?

Here's some more info on Texas-Two Step:

"If you want to brew truly bitter, hoppy extract beers, you need to perform a full-wort boil. However, for most stovetop brewers, both the size of their brewpot and the output of their stove preclude vigorously boiling all their wort at once.

The Texas Two-Step method is a workaround that allows stovetop brewers to boil their entire wort, albeit in shifts. The basic idea is to boil two 2.5-gallon (9.5 L) worts and combine them. Although this method allows for the lightest-colored, hoppiest stovetop beer, it does have one drawback: you need two consecutive brew days for every brew — one to boil the first half of the wort and the other to boil the second half.

The recipe collection features two recipes for decidedly hoppy beers — one on page 28 and one at byo.com. These recipes require more effort, but are well worth it for the confirmed hophead."

I personally think you can brew via the TTS method in one brew day if you brew indoors, and straddle two burners (one for each kettle), using four total burners.
 
I personally think you can brew via the TTS method in one brew day if you brew indoors, and straddle two burners (one for each kettle), using four total burners.
Before moving outdoors I used to place 1 pot over the 2 burners and it would work. Did this for years and always had decent beer...
 
I'll try to help you out, but I need to know what kind of equipment you have and more info about your brewing process.

How big is your kettle?
Do you have two kettles?
Extract brewer, partial mash, all grain?
Size of your carboys/buckets?
Desired minimum/maximum batch size?

Here's some more info on Texas-Two Step:

"If you want to brew truly bitter, hoppy extract beers, you need to perform a full-wort boil. However, for most stovetop brewers, both the size of their brewpot and the output of their stove preclude vigorously boiling all their wort at once.

The Texas Two-Step method is a workaround that allows stovetop brewers to boil their entire wort, albeit in shifts. The basic idea is to boil two 2.5-gallon (9.5 L) worts and combine them. Although this method allows for the lightest-colored, hoppiest stovetop beer, it does have one drawback: you need two consecutive brew days for every brew — one to boil the first half of the wort and the other to boil the second half.

The recipe collection features two recipes for decidedly hoppy beers — one on page 28 and one at byo.com. These recipes require more effort, but are well worth it for the confirmed hophead."

I personally think you can brew via the TTS method in one brew day if you brew indoors, and straddle two burners (one for each kettle), using four total burners.
15L Stainless Steel Kettle.
I have another larger, thicker 20L S/S Kettle - but it's too hard to heat on my stove.
Extract/Partial Mash.
23L Carboy.
I shoot for 19/20L batch size - I top it up with water by sight and without markings, so there may be some variation.

*My boil is essentially 2.5 gallons, closer to 10L, as is...

I only have an old electric stove with one large burner and three small burners that I don't even use because they are just about nonfunctional. I'd have a hard time boiling a cup of tea across two of those, nevermind a thick 20L stainless brewpot. It actually takes me a dog's age to get 10L to a rolling boil on the large burner...

I've been known to do two extract/partial mash beers in one day before; Texas Two Step for me will essentially amount to the same amount of effort, with half the amount of beer produced - however, it should theoretically be closer to the hoppy styles I was looking for...
 
I only have an old electric stove with one large burner and three small burners that I don't even use because they are just about nonfunctional. I'd have a hard time boiling a cup of tea across two of those, nevermind a thick 20L stainless brewpot. It actually takes me a dog's age to get 10L to a rolling boil on the large burner...

I've had to deal with stoves like this before. What helped a bit with those nonfunctional burners was to remove the coil and clean as much gunk off the contacts as possible. I've also turned the burner on its highest setting BEFORE placing any sort of pot or pan on it. Once it's bright red then I put the pot/pan on the burner. Sometimes the pressure caused by the weight of the liquid+pot can cause those coil burners to...lose some contact and perform at less than optimal temps.
 
I've had to deal with stoves like this before. What helped a bit with those nonfunctional burners was to remove the coil and clean as much gunk off the contacts as possible. I've also turned the burner on its highest setting BEFORE placing any sort of pot or pan on it. Once it's bright red then I put the pot/pan on the burner. Sometimes the pressure caused by the weight of the liquid+pot can cause those coil burners to...lose some contact and perform at less than optimal temps.
Thanks Stardust...

Believe it or not, I only made that observation about heating the burner beforehand during my last brewday. I felt kind of dumb for not noticing it before, but I really assumed that such a thing wouldn't make a big difference... Oh the perils of being self-taught!

(I may clean up the burners one of those days, but I am a lowly tenant and they've been terrible since the day I moved in - and I still don't think they'd be suitable for brewing even when I was finished. If I owned the apartment, I would've thrown that terrible stove in the trash long ago and bought a brand new model)
 
I'd also like to pose another question about this technique...

I've been thinking - perhaps I can't see the forest for the trees...

In all of this talk about the Texas Two Step method, I was concerned about getting both halves of the split boil done in a single day.

Perhaps the inoculation of yeast into the wort on Day One is a crucial part? I suppose it would be like creating a gigantic starter in a way, presuming the yeast started fermentation by Day Two. Maybe by splitting the wort and boiling it simultaneously some benefit of this early fermentation is lost... What do you guys think?

For the sake of simplicity, I would rather brew it all in two consecutive sessions, but I know that won't always be practical for me...
 
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