I have a fridge with a birdie control also with a heat lamp to cool/warm. I recently added temp strips to my carboys (like for fish tanks) to monitor what the fermenter temp is vs the fridge temp. I have the control set to 64+/-1F. On day one the strip said 66-67 and on day two it is at 70. I know that’s normal for fermenter to go up during the initial kick. My question is should I try to adjust the fridge temp as I go to keep the temp in the ferment as close to the same as possible. Say have the fridge at 60 to get the carboy to 64ish and adjust daily to keep it at 64 until it stays the same? Is there a benefit to that? I would think temp control is the beer itself rather than the inclosed ambient.
Temp Control Micromanage?
- Thread starter ike8228
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The purpose of a temp controller is to maintain the beer at a constant temp, not the air inside your fridge.
Fasten the probe for your controller to the side of your fermenter by placing the probe behind a piece of foam insulation (an ordinary kitchen sponge works fine) and keep it in place by wrapping a bungee cord around the fermenter.
Fasten the probe for your controller to the side of your fermenter by placing the probe behind a piece of foam insulation (an ordinary kitchen sponge works fine) and keep it in place by wrapping a bungee cord around the fermenter.
AJinJacksonville
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What Grampa said. I find that my chest freezer with a temp controller (with the probe attached as outlined above) in my garage in FL only fluctuates probably 2 degrees this time of year. The temp strip on the fermenter shows no fluctuation whatsoever. Just do your best. A side note, I do not have a heat source...just 'nature').
Ditto @grampamark
Tape the probe to the fermentor with painters tape. Put something over the probe to insulate it so the probe is really reading the surface of your fermentor and not the air in the fridge. It is normal for the fermentation temperature to rise as fermentation gets going and this spike in temps can lead to off flavors, especially too much esters, so more of an issue in some beers than in others. If I lived in Florida I'd probably not bother with the heat source either but in New York brewing in my garage it is necessary.
Side note...holding beer temp within a degree or two of setpoint is not really considered micromanaging around here there are brewers on this forum that aim for holding within a tenth of a degree using more sophisticated controllers. Personally I aim for within one degree of setpoint.
I've found an always-on fan in the fridge makes a big difference on level of control I get. I really like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but an old computer case fan with a hacked charger also will do the job. The muffin fan is a little noisy if your fermentor fridge is in an area where that might be an issue.
Tape the probe to the fermentor with painters tape. Put something over the probe to insulate it so the probe is really reading the surface of your fermentor and not the air in the fridge. It is normal for the fermentation temperature to rise as fermentation gets going and this spike in temps can lead to off flavors, especially too much esters, so more of an issue in some beers than in others. If I lived in Florida I'd probably not bother with the heat source either but in New York brewing in my garage it is necessary.
Side note...holding beer temp within a degree or two of setpoint is not really considered micromanaging around here there are brewers on this forum that aim for holding within a tenth of a degree using more sophisticated controllers. Personally I aim for within one degree of setpoint.
I've found an always-on fan in the fridge makes a big difference on level of control I get. I really like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but an old computer case fan with a hacked charger also will do the job. The muffin fan is a little noisy if your fermentor fridge is in an area where that might be an issue.
Interesting. Thanks. I didn’t think to actually put the indicated in the carboy itself.
Although I am currently, and will probably keep using glass carboys from time to time, I have some bigger stainless conicals I plan to upgrade my batches with soon. I don’t think this concept would work for the metal? Should I consider drilling and hole and adding a grommet to the conical with the indicator in it?
Although I am currently, and will probably keep using glass carboys from time to time, I have some bigger stainless conicals I plan to upgrade my batches with soon. I don’t think this concept would work for the metal? Should I consider drilling and hole and adding a grommet to the conical with the indicator in it?
If you want the probe actually in the carboy use a thermowell. Something like this:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/10-silicone-stopper-thermowell.html
Personally though with carboys I was always happy with taping the probe to the outside of the carboy and insulating over.
When you get into the stainless conical they normally include an integrated thermowell.
https://www.morebeer.com/products/10-silicone-stopper-thermowell.html
Personally though with carboys I was always happy with taping the probe to the outside of the carboy and insulating over.
When you get into the stainless conical they normally include an integrated thermowell.
Did your conical not come with somewhere for a thermowell? I put the probe there.
On my older blichman, I use a stopper with 2 holes — one for my bubbler and I slide a 18” stainless thermowell down the other so that the probe is in the beer.
On my older blichman, I use a stopper with 2 holes — one for my bubbler and I slide a 18” stainless thermowell down the other so that the probe is in the beer.
Here is a good example of how to place the probe on the carboy.
I would not drill your conical. Send us a picture and will give you ideas. TBH while it is a little ghetto, there is no reason the same technique used above for the carboy would not work on a stainless steel conical. Actually I think it might work even better due to the faster heat transfer of steel over glass.
I would not drill your conical. Send us a picture and will give you ideas. TBH while it is a little ghetto, there is no reason the same technique used above for the carboy would not work on a stainless steel conical. Actually I think it might work even better due to the faster heat transfer of steel over glass.
Well I think that the metal being conductive would negate the insulation of a sponge over the indicator as the whole surface is exposed to and absorbing the ambient temp. Maybe not, but I think. Wouldn’t hurt to try it. My fridge is quite large and I could theoretically do 8 5 gallons at a time. I usually try to do two similar beers/similar yeast temps at the same time.
I plan to add clamps for the kids. I don’t like the screw down in the center design.
I am currently doing ten gallons of a stout. 5 to add bourbon soak chips, 5 singles to experiment with different flavor flavor additions: Caoco nibs, vanilla, peanut butter, blueberry (I wanted to see), and just plain.
It just finished the initial fermentation so I know the bubblers need to be cleaned.
I plan to add clamps for the kids. I don’t like the screw down in the center design.
I am currently doing ten gallons of a stout. 5 to add bourbon soak chips, 5 singles to experiment with different flavor flavor additions: Caoco nibs, vanilla, peanut butter, blueberry (I wanted to see), and just plain.
It just finished the initial fermentation so I know the bubblers need to be cleaned.
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