TC connection to kettle

[Esmitee]

I want to mount a 2" TC Ferrule to my kettles for an element connection.

OD is 2", ID is 1 7/8", would it be better to pop an 1 7/8" hole and "butt" the Ferrule to the wall of the kettle and weld or silver solder it on from the outside (with out a dimple), or pop a 2 " hole and push the Ferrule in the hole in the wall a little bit and either weld or solder it? I'm leaning towards the silver soldering, because I can do the soldering myself. Either way be just as strong?
Thanks

 

[Esmitee]

Don't know why it posted 3 times?

 

[bruce_the_loon]

Silver solder will be fine if you can build a solid seam. As for the joint itself, I'd push it through the wall and solder from both sides to get a solid bead on both sides of the wall. If you do it just from the outside with a butt joint, then you run the risk of an unsealed gap inside the kettle between the wall and the ferrule where nasties can accumulate.

 

[Esmitee]

Silver solder will be fine if you can build a solid seam. As for the joint itself, I'd push it through the wall and solder from both sides to get a solid bead on both sides of the wall. If you do it just from the outside with a butt joint, then you run the risk of an unsealed gap inside the kettle between the wall and the ferrule where nasties can accumulate.

Yes that would be the best way I guess,
But if both ways would be as strong , and I used the but joint and soldered it from the outside, wouldn't the solder wick through to the inside and seal it?

 

[bruce_the_loon]

Yes that would be the best way I guess,
But if both ways would be as strong , and I used the but joint and soldered it from the outside, wouldn't the solder wick through to the inside and seal it?

The solder on the butt joint "should" wick through, but if the hole is identical to the ID of the ferrule, the solder layer would be very thin on the side.

In consideration of the strength, using the 2" hole with the ferrule going through would be a stronger joint. If you look at the image attached, with both joints, a blow from the side (the purple arrow) would put forces in the directions of the green arrows.

On the butt joint, the force will be compressive on the left side where the arrow points down and tensile where it points up. The tensile force might cause the joint to split on that side if the blow is strong enough.

With the through-hole joint, there will be both compressive and tensile forces around the entire circumference of the joint because the bead on the inside will create an inversion of the force on the outside bead. The forces will be in balance and you will end up with a stronger joint.

 

[Esmitee]

I very much agree with you. I do believe "through" the wall would be stronger.
If I wanted to dimple the hole to do the through the wall install, do you know if the proper size hole to cut, for dimpling, would be 1 7/8" for the 2" OD Ferrule ? Btw, I'm using a keggle for my element install and I have read, the walls of the keg are 18 gauge.

Thanks for your explicit explanation.

 

[bruce_the_loon]

I very much agree with you. I do believe "through" the wall would be stronger.
If I wanted to dimple the hole to do the through the wall install, do you know if the proper size hole to cut, for dimpling, would be 1 7/8" for the 2" OD Ferrule ? Btw, I'm using a keggle for my element install and I have read, the walls of the keg are 18 gauge.

Thanks for your explicit explanation.

I've never dimpled a hole before, only a flat drilling of the external diameter.

 

[Bobby_M]

Dimpling a 2" hole without a perfectly designed tool for it is going to be very difficult to do. I would not butt solder a TC. I have this fitting that is designed for what you are trying to do:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm

The fitting itself is a little costly, but not as much as a full batch of wort and a trip to the ER.

 

[baulz]

Dimpling a 2" hole without a perfectly designed tool for it is going to be very difficult to do. I would not butt solder a TC. I have this fitting that is designed for what you are trying to do:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm

The fitting itself is a little costly, but not as much as a full batch of wort and a trip to the ER.

Sorry if this is OT for the thread but when do you expect to have the 1.5" solder radius fittings back in stock?

 

[jzimpleman]

I was about to reply that brewhardware.com sells a fitting to be soldered on for TC connections, but Bobby already has pointed it out. I just watched the video on YouTube today.

The fittings I've gotten from him, albeit not TC, have been spot in and soldered on flawlessly!

 

[Esmitee]

Hey thanks Men for the replies.
Bobby, I have extensively looked at your products and do like your radiused TC connection , however,I I have purchased (2)
2" Short TC Ferrules and will have my friend who does stainless welding, weld them on for me. If not, I wanta try my hand at Silver soldering and do them with dimples. I would use a Greenlee radio punch or a Bi Metal hole saw to get the proper sized holes. What size hole would I need for the dimpling process for a 2" fitting?

 

[Bobby_M]

An 1/8" undersized hole works well for 1" OD fittings so I think a 1.75 hole works for 2".

 

[Esmitee]

Hey Bobby, thanks.