Switching to Electric

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Storemagnini

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I have decided to switch from propane to Electric.
I would appreciate any help you could help me with.
My htl is a 30-gallon Herms systems
My mask turn is 20 gallons
My Brew Kettle is 25 gallons
I use a 50 foot counterflow chiller instead of using City water to cool it down I use ice to pump through my counterflow chiller .
After doing a lot of research I decide to use a wire diagram produced by Doug 293cz.
I came across the diagram by short circuit Brewery .
Here's a list of all the stuff I ordered today from Amber
ea. 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (For SSR)
Item #: SYL-2352 $46.50
1 ea. LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
Item #: IND-1
  • Power Voltage Option - 120V AC/DC
  • LED Color Option - Red
$3.45
1 ea. Liquid tight RTD sensor, 1.5 in, 1/2 NPT Thread
Item #: PT100-L401/2NPT
  • Cable Option - 8 ft Braided Cable with XLRCON-M connector/cable
$43.35
3 ea. Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 2 in, Weldless Fitting, M14
Item #: PT100-L50M14
  • Cable Option - 8 ft Braided Cable with XLRCON-M connector/cable
$137.85
1 ea. NO/NC Switch Block
Item #: BK-SW2
  • Block Option - NC
$2.80
2 ea. 40A AC SSR
Item #: SRDA40 $31.00
1 ea. NO/NC Switch Block
Item #: BK-SW2
  • Block Option - NO
$2.80
1 ea. LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
Item #: IND-1
  • Power Voltage Option - 120V AC/DC
  • LED Color Option - Blue
$3.45
1 ea. Wall Mount Box for Three Controllers 16x12x8"
Item #: B403020
  • Heatsink Option - With 75A Heatsink (BHS75B)
  • Precut Option - With factory precut for 3 x 1/16 DIN controller
$104.75
2 ea. Leviton 240V 30A NEMA L6-30R Socket For Heater
Item #: L6-30R $29.40
3 ea. Contactor, 2 pole, 30/40 A, 120V Coil
Item #: CN-PBC302-120V $37.77
1 ea. Key Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained, 22mm
Item #: SW8
  • Block Option - 2 NO
$14.97
2 ea. Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO, 22mm
Item #: SW4 $11.98
2 ea. LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
Item #: IND-1
  • Power Voltage Option - 120V AC/DC
  • LED Color Option - Green
$6.90
1 ea. 1/16 DIN Dual Channel Temperature Meter For Brew Panel
Item #: SYL-2802A $51.50
2 ea. LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V
Item #: IND-1
  • Power Voltage Option - 240V AC/DC
  • LED Color Option - Yellow
$6.90
1 ea. EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling Process Automation
Item #: DSPR120
  • Model Option - DSPR120
$46.95
1 ea. 2-in-1 LCD Voltmeter Ammeter Gauge
Item #: DVA-120 $17.50
1 ea. Selector Switch, 3-Position Maintained 2 NO, 22mm
Item #: SW3 $5.99
1 ea. Leviton 120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R Round Cut
Item #: 5258-SS $8.50
1 ea. Emergency Stop (E-Stop) Switch, 22mm
Item #: SW6
  • Switch Type Option - Momentary Action, 1NC only

  • I am planning on doing a little modifications to Doug system by adding alarm and estop and a timer because I am running three separate pumps my control panel is only going to have one switch for pumps on the panel I have a sub panel it has all three switches in it already wired up.
 
I strongly suggest you go with something like these instead of the cheap stainless braided line sensors. I have ruined many before going to these a few years ago. The stainless line kinks and shorts easily.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-...366845&hash=item2811e5a4b8:g:qOQAAOSwb9dZv1PZ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-...m=162790855684&_trksid=p2045573.c100706.m4781

The ones that auber sells are normally like $10 everywhere else without their markup. (you do have to buy the second panel mount xlr connector for like a dollar shipped from ebay separately but this will end up saving you like $100 for the same chinese sensors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-...123906&hash=item33e1007d67:g:g2cAAOSwhiZacfZO
 
I 2nd what Augiedoggy said. I've had to rebuild all my RTDs at least once some twice. I've reinforced them where I feel they are weak but they still develop shorts. I will be swapping over to the more robust ones post by Augiedoggy when my rebuilt ones fail again.
 
I suggest one of the first two rtds augiedoggy recommended. I tried the third type because it was cheaper but ended up breaking the pins in the male because I'm not that gentile with equipment. I've been happy with the kind that screws on for a couple years taking them on and off brew day at least once.
 
I suggest one of the first two rtds augiedoggy recommended. I tried the third type because it was cheaper but ended up breaking the pins in the male because I'm not that gentile with equipment. I've been happy with the kind that screws on for a couple years taking them on and off brew day at least once.
I wasnt really suggesting the third type but more or less stating its the same type auberins sells for much more.. I do own and have both and the stainless braided lines just suck in my honest opinion. Honestly Im cheap and try to stretch my dollar... I have numerous cheap pt100 sensors and the teflon ones are the oldest ones that just hold up great compared to the others. I find that in general much of what auberins sells is available on ebay or amazon for up to 30% less. I understand this savings isnt worth it to everyone and some like the one stop shop convenience.. nothing wrong with it I just like to point out to folks who dont know that its the same generic chinese product they sell except for the specialty stuff they designed like the temp controllers. (which are great BTW)
I really stretched my money with the old controller in my avatar which was under $300 to build... still works but I replaced it with a software/arduino based brucontrol panel which has more flexibility by far. OP if your the handy type who likes the engineering aspect of your system as much as brewing I suggest considering this approach as well. its way easier for me to add and reconfigure things as I want this way. Im actually using brucontrol on the nano system im building as well for a brewpub im opening with a partner.
 
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Good luck on remaking your rig. I started off going propane several years ago and then in the middle of the build I remade my rig into an electric e-herms. Mine is a Kal clone with keggles and a bunch of tri clover fittings. I love brewing on it, you are gonna love yours when it's done. Post some pics along the way I'd like to see your progress.

Cheers,

John
 
Thank you for the information.
I guess I'll buy some more sensors and keep the other ones from Amber as back up it was too late to cancel that order because they shipped today.
I have not purchased my heat elements yet what are your recommendations and Brands and who to buy them from?
 
I recommend the tri clamp based ones.. I bought mine from here for about $30 shipped each over a year ago and they have worked great for me...

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.121.2b9116e0mM8edf
The ones brewboss and brewhardware sell are great too. Bobby at brewhardware.com stands behind the stuff he sells and would likely offer better support if you ran into an issue with them.
 
Hi Doug how much wire do you recommend for the Herms diagram you did for short circuit Brewery .
 
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Hi Doug how much wire do you recommend for the Herms diagram you did for short circuit Brewery .
I couldn't tell you, as I didn't build it (I don't have time or funds to build all the different designs I have done), but it will depend on how you lay things out in your enclosure. Check with Brian at Short Circuited as I believe he did build this design.

Brew on :mug:
 
I started laying out my control panel
IMG_20180225_060234_2248.jpg
 
Over the weekend I finish running the 220 circuit .
Still waiting on the heat elements and the GFI 30 amp breaker.
Was able to finish the front panel this this weekendIMG_20180228_074932_7593.jpg IMG_20180228_075035_3292.jpg
 
On the 220 side are you guys running solid or stranded 10 gauge wire?
The sockets for my heat element require solid strand.
 
On the 220 side are you guys running solid or stranded 10 gauge wire?
The sockets for my heat element require solid strand.

I just finished building my control panel yesterday using the same panel box you are. I used stranded for all gauges.

I kinda wish I went with a bigger box as it was getting tight near the end.

Good luck!
 
On the 220 side are you guys running solid or stranded 10 gauge wire?
The sockets for my heat element require solid strand.

what is indicating that you need solid wire? i assume you have the leviton 2626f receptacles, the 30 amp twist-lock flange models. looking at the leviton website, it doesn't state what type of conductor can be used but since they are ul listed, they are evaluated with both solid and stranded conductors and thus are listed for use with either type of conductor. unless you have some literature that came with the receptacle which specifically states otherwise, you should be good to go with either. i would go with stranded, much easier to work with.

some people say that stranded wire should have spades or similar crimps on the end of the conductor to properly land on the terminal. ironically, ul has not evaluated the receptacles with anything other than bare conductor at the terminal so using spades at the conductor would result in the receptacle not being used in accordance with its listing.
 
Finish the power source this weekend. And able to finish the front panel. Hopefully I can start wiring the panel.IMG_20180310_111013562.jpg
 

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A couple good resources:
Theelectricbrewery.com, and short circuited brewers on youtube. I built my whole system with just these. Tons of info. Have fun with the build. It looks great.
 
Last 6 months have been extremely busy haven't been able to work on the panel till last weekend
IMG_20180903_220842432.jpg
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Sorry guys I have an updated for a while controller in action brewing a honey blonde ale
 

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