Sweating Coffin!!

[jbb3]

I recently completed a keezer build. First off, tell me it ain't awesome to have beer on tap!!

Anyway, I'm very happy with the build but I have one issue that is going to be a problem long term if I don't figure out a fix....

The coffin top has a hinged rear access hatch so I can get to the shanks and beer lines for maintenance. And that hinge is sweating pretty badly. I have added foam weather stripping on the inside trying to insulate it from the temperature differences but it hasn't helped that much.







Obviously, I don't want to turn down my fans to reduce the cold air flow through the coffin top. So I'm hoping someone has been successful at solving an issue like this or has some ideas that I could try to resolve it!?!?

Hit we with any construction questions.

Ideas welcome!!!

 

[b-boy]

Your pictures aren't loading for me.

If it's sweating, it usually means you have a leak somewhere, you need more insulation, or you need fans. Sounds like you have fans, so add some silicone or a gasket of some kind to help seal it up.
Also, look at beefing up your insulation.

 

[day_trippr]

Use ornamental hinges on the outside...

Cheers!

 

[jbb3]

Your pictures aren't loading for me.

If it's sweating, it usually means you have a leak somewhere, you need more insulation, or you need fans. Sounds like you have fans, so add some silicone or a gasket of some kind to help seal it up.
Also, look at beefing up your insulation.

Not sure why the photos aren't loading??

The coffin top is built with 3/4" solid cherry and I have 1/2" rigid foam adhered to the inside with 1/8" Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation over the top of the rigid foam. However, I planed down the stock for the rear access panel so it's only 1/2" thick.

I guess I could try another layer of the 1/8" Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation over the rear hatch. But I think the hinge is the weak link??

 

[jbb3]

Use ornamental hinges on the outside...

Cheers!

Might have to if I don't figure out another fix. It's going to rust these nickel hinges. I though I bought stainless hinges but I'm already seeing small rust stains...

 

[flars]

I would also recommend the hinges on the outside. This will eliminate the chance of cooled air contacting metal. The piano hinge could work. Cover the flanges with thin wood strips held in place with caulk or a couple of screws, to go through the hinge mount holes.

 

[BrunDog]

The inside edge of the hinge is acting like a heat sink and dumping heat into the keezer. Move the hinge outside as recommended above.

-BD

 

[TallDan]

Why not just add an additional flap of insulation to the bottom of the door (top when it's open) so that when the door is closed the flap covers the wood and hinge?

 

[jbb3]

Why not just add an additional flap of insulation to the bottom of the door (top when it's open) so that when the door is closed the flap covers the wood and hinge?

Hmmm... at first I dismissed your idea but now that i think more about it... It's certainly the least invasive and if it actually works I won't have to redo my hinge setup on what's a finished working coffin top.

Not sure i can make it seal well enough but it's worth a try!

 

[TallDan]

Hmmm... at first I dismissed your idea but now that i think more about it... It's certainly the least invasive and if it actually works I won't have to redo my hinge setup on what's a finished working coffin top.

Not sure i can make it seal well enough but it's worth a try!

The challenge is going to be to have it fit loosely enough to fall into place when the door is closed, but snug enough to provide the insulation you need. You could also attach it on both sides of the hinge with it open, so that the slack creates something of a bubble when the door is closed, but again, the sides of this bubble could end up letting air through. Either way, this isn't the most robust option, but I don't think you'll be opening that access hatch too frequently.

I'd at least try it a few ways (attached to the door, attached to the inside, attached to both) before redesigning the whole coffin, particularly since it looks so nice as-is!

 

[TallDan]

Hmm, just throwing out ideas, maybe a weak magnetic closure would help seal it up?

 

[jbb3]

Hmm, just throwing out ideas, maybe a weak magnetic closure would help seal it up?

Not following?? More info please!

 

[1975brewer]

Do you have room for a soft foam about 1 - 1.5 inches thick cut a bit over size to fill the whole opening before you close the access door.

 

[TallDan]

Not following?? More info please!

Same idea as the insulation flap, but put a magnetic strip both on the flap and where the flap should line up when the door is closed. That way the magnets help seal the closure, just like the magnetic seal of a refrigerator door.

 

[jbb3]

Do you have room for a soft foam about 1 - 1.5 inches thick cut a bit over size to fill the whole opening before you close the access door.

Maybe have room for 1" thick but not 1-1/2". Don't want to reduce the air circulation inside the coffin top too much around the shanks and tail pieces. But certainly another possible option!

Same idea as the insulation flap, but put a magnetic strip both on the flap and where the flap should line up when the door is closed. That way the magnets help seal the closure, just like the magnetic seal of a refrigerator door.

Got it! I could use sticky backed magnetic strips.

I'm thinking between you & 1975, I should be able to rig up SOMETHING that will work!

 

[jbb3]

Do you have room for a soft foam about 1 - 1.5 inches thick cut a bit over size to fill the whole opening before you close the access door.

Same idea as the insulation flap, but put a magnetic strip both on the flap and where the flap should line up when the door is closed. That way the magnets help seal the closure, just like the magnetic seal of a refrigerator door.

Well gentlemen, You guys may have inspired an extremely simple yet so far effective fix!

I went out to the shop and found a piece 1" rigid foam left over from my ferm chamber build. Cut it down to the size of the opening and wedged it in (compression fit).

It initially wouldn't fit because the insulation on the door protrudes about 1/2" into the top from the edge of the opening. plus the tail pieces aren't that far from the door. So I hollowed out some groves in the foam where the tail pieces hit and just did get it to squeeze it with the door closed.

Here is a shot of the foam covering the door opening.




Even with the small gap at the top (cut it to short because of having to recess it more than I thought) it had no condensation on the hinge when I woke up this morning...




I'll let it go and observe throughout the day to see if it holds. But so far so good.

Will report back later tonight.

Stay tuned!

 

[jbb3]

Do you have room for a soft foam about 1 - 1.5 inches thick cut a bit over size to fill the whole opening before you close the access door.

Same idea as the insulation flap, but put a magnetic strip both on the flap and where the flap should line up when the door is closed. That way the magnets help seal the closure, just like the magnetic seal of a refrigerator door.

The verdict is in...

I normally run my re-circ fans mounted in the coffin top at 70%. In order to test the "insulation shield" fix suggested by you guys, I decided to crank up the fans to around 90% to try and make the hinge sweat.

I ran the fans @ 90% for most of the day today.

As of 8:30pm this evening, the hinge is still bone dry!

I honestly didn't think it would work but figured it was worth a try. I'm glad I did.

Gentlemen, Thank you for your suggestions. I appreciate the time you took to consider my situation and offer your input.

This one is is for you!

 

[1975brewer]

Hope it continues to work. Enjoyed looking at the pics. That's some very nice work.

 

[jbb3]

Here's what I hope to be the final version of the "shield". I cut a new larger piece of pink foam so it would fill the opening without a gap. Wrapped it with metallic duct tape. And added some cord for handles to helps move it around to make sure it seals and remove it when needed.