Stc controller build

[Phlyborn]

So I bought what I thought was a 120v stc-1000 and instead what I received was a 12v unit. So rather than return it I went to radio shack and since they are closing I scored a great deal on a transformer, switch and project box for only $8. I already had the outlet wires and power cord. Total investment $23!View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424306074.686662.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424306091.191037.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424306102.653666.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424306111.210498.jpg

 

[raouliii]

Is it a 12v AC model?

 

[Phlyborn]

Yes it is

 

[norrisk66]

I've seen the STC-1000 control head on Amazon for $15.

What would I expect to spend on everything else to complete this project without scoring the clearance items that you bought?

Thanks!

 

[Phlyborn]

An outlet costs $.58, switch cost $1.30 - $4, a 6"x4" junction box $12, power cord $4-$17=$17-30. Not including the controller. That's if you walked into a home improvement store. If you were to get creative and use a Rubbermaid container for the enclosure that would cut the cost. A project box at radio shack cost between $8-15. Obviously there are plenty of ways to build one, this is just one way.

 

[smithabusa]

I've seen the STC-1000 control head on Amazon for $15.

What would I expect to spend on everything else to complete this project without scoring the clearance items that you bought?

Thanks!

My solution isn't dirt cheap, but very professional when complete. If interested on my website I have options from just a controller with the alphaomega stc-1000 + software which has all kinds of cool features, to diy kits, to fully assembled kits with different options as well.

Greg

 

[jason1973]

My solution isn't dirt cheap, but very professional when complete. If interested on my website I have options from just a controller with the alphaomega stc-1000 + software which has all kinds of cool features, to diy kits, to fully assembled kits with different options as well.

Greg

i went with yours just waiting to get it

 

[smithabusa]

Awesome!

 

[jason1973]

Awesome!

when you doing next shippings? i ordered on thursday its a to canada order?

 

[smithabusa]

I ship everyday, I sent you an email about shipping to Canada hadn't heard back yet. My site is setup for usa shipping and have to manually figure international shipments, check your junk mail also asked about Fahrenheit versus Celsius

Greg

 

[jason1973]

So I bought what I thought was a 120v stc-1000 and instead what I received was a 12v unit. So rather than return it I went to radio shack and since they are closing I scored a great deal on a transformer, switch and project box for only $8. I already had the outlet wires and power cord. Total investment $23!View attachment 257532View attachment 257535View attachment 257536View attachment 257537

theres a 12v unit? nice to know my moded cool brewing bag is a 12 system.

 

[Grant7]

Hi. I am wondering if anyone can help with wiring for a STC-1000 with 12VDC input? (Image of unit attached)

I am looking to build a fermentation fridge, and although the ports for the heating and cooling are 220VAC (exactly what I need to power the fridge and heater), I am concerned that if the power in is only 12V DC (I am using an adapter from the mains for this), there may not be enough power to the fridge and heater?

Will it be ok to use the following wiring I have seen on this forum?

Or would something like this work better?

Any help hugely appreciated!

 

[Phlyborn]

Hi. I am wondering if anyone can help with wiring for a STC-1000 with 12VDC input? (Image of unit attached)

I am looking to build a fermentation fridge, and although the ports for the heating and cooling are 220VAC (exactly what I need to power the fridge and heater), I am concerned that if the power in is only 12V DC (I am using an adapter from the mains for this), there may not be enough power to the fridge and heater?

Will it be ok to use the following wiring I have seen on this forum?

Or would something like this work better?

Any help hugely appreciated!

I went with the second drawing.

 

[Grant7]

I went with the second drawing.

Fantastic - thank you! Presume you had no issues? Can I also ask if you added in any additional fuses, switches or relays, or if it just worked as per diagram 2?

 

[Phlyborn]

It has worked flawlessly to this day. I’ve left it on 24/7 since it was first built and never had any issue. No fuses or relays but, there is an on/off switch. The cool side is controlling the fridge (obviously) and the hot side is controlling a ceramic reptile bulb.

 

[SleepyCreekBrews]

@Grant7 The first wiring diagram above is for the 120vac model

 

[Grant7]

Thank you so much @Phlyborn and @SleepyCreekBrews!

I'd like to wire the heating (ports 5&6) and cooling (ports 7&8) to extension cables, and plug the ceramic bulb and fridge into the extensions. In the drawing, I think I have the wires into 5&6 and 7&8 switched around, but other than that, Will this work ok?

For the additional live wires needed to plug into the STC, can I just cut a length from the extension cable?

From the mains, plug 1&2 are AC/DC adapters for the PC fan (which I think should be on permanently when the fridge is operating?), and the power to the STC. Plugs 3 & 4 are the extension leads to plug the fridge and ceramic bulb into.

(In the fridge, I also just drew where I intend everything to go once wired up)

Thanks so much again!

 

[SleepyCreekBrews]

Looks like you've got the hang of it.
A couple things:
1) you can probably run the fan and the STC1000 off the same 12VDC adapter.
2) Same with the 220vac supply mains , no need for two wall plugs, simply split it inside the project box.
3) ensure you have an adequate cool-to-warm tolerance so the heater doesn't come if the fridge overshoots it's target temp (and vice-versa).