klyph
Well-Known Member
Sure it will, in fact you'd probably have to trim the legs on the latch down a bit to get it to close.
Stainless Wiki Conical under $100?
- Thread starter chippy_23
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Sure it will, in fact you'd probably have to trim the legs on the latch down a bit to get it to close.
Yeah, I forgot about the raised lip on the keg that the lid sits in. Wonder if that would be a big enough opening to clean all the way into the conical?
klyph
Well-Known Member
Honestly, the fact that you can unclamp the cone from the pot for cleaning, you only need a hole big enough for filling and an airlock.
BrewSpook
Well-Known Member
And dry hopping....
I was thinking if it was welded. I think a combination racking arm/fill port drilled into the side would work well for filling. And just any old hole and fitting on the top for an air lock.
klyph
Well-Known Member
And yeast pitching, aerating, uh what else...
Oh yeah....forgot about that too. If it's welded up, you would need to remove the top somehow.
Well I dont think that cleaning would be a problem with a corny lid. I would leave one of them removable in order to get a good look inside and make any repairs/inspections necessary but that is just me. Here is a pic with a mixing bowl (wrong size) and a tape measure for scale.
klyph
Well-Known Member
The toledo metal spinning 6.4 gallon hopper and lid is $200. But you still don't have the stand, valves, fittings, etc.
It's really hard to beat the cheap commercial conical options.
It's really hard to beat the cheap commercial conical options.
They also have a 6.4 gallon one for 158. I this is probably the best option when you are looking for the best finished product. Also the Toledo conical is 14: in diameter which is closer to some of the larger brew pots so it could maybe be modified to hold a 10 gallon batch.
As for the legs I think I am going to cut two triangle (ish) pieces of plywood and inset one point of the triangle into the handles and then tie the bases together which should make a fairly stable base. If the ring works you can just put the thing into a bucket upside down and cut an access hole in the side of the bucket,
Lg
As for the legs I think I am going to cut two triangle (ish) pieces of plywood and inset one point of the triangle into the handles and then tie the bases together which should make a fairly stable base. If the ring works you can just put the thing into a bucket upside down and cut an access hole in the side of the bucket,
Lg
klyph
Well-Known Member
The 6.4 gal is the one I was talking about. Add the price of their lid and you're at $200.
Dwain
Well-Known Member
I'm still interested. You're in it far enough now that you will finish it. Even if the costs were the same, I would do the DIY. Of course, I've got 2 Scout II's, a CJ7, and a Porshe in pieces (all given to me in the various states of being in pieces) at my shop, so I'm probably not a good yardstick! Also, please take plenty of pictures. Luck - Dwain
beerandbbq
Member
Bump
EarthBound
Well-Known Member
Why? The last post was less than two hours before you bumped it.
Maybe I misunderstand the point of bumping...
Don't worry my friend I will finish it. I have a 66 Mustang that got a COMPLETE tear down and rebuild to trans-am specs (the bad news is that it took me 7 years). As for the costs this one will come in pretty close to $100 if you exclude shipping. I was just saying that the Toledo conical will be a better all around product in the end but I think this one will be more feasible, besides I dont know many guys who can spend $200 without having to explain it to their wife.
Hey BBQ thanks for bumping I was in the middle of something when I got the alert and now I will return to the conical.
I just got the cord stock (O ring) from McMaster so I will try to get the bucket to hold water.
Lg
The 5/16th cord stock did not work. I am certain that it would work if I had a bolt tightening bucket ring, but the locking ring wouldnt even close on the funnel with the O ring in it. 5/16th is way too big.
Then I saw some pipe tape that I had laying on the counter from the valve project (why didnt you guys think of this!!!!) I wrapped the bucket and funnel separately. After attaching the ring I put it upside down in my Brewpot and it leaked
I pulled the ring off and wrapped the bucket and funnel together and it worked no leaks with about 3 gallons of water in the thing.
BTW I know my kitchen looks like something out of a Rob Zombie movie but we are doing a full restoration on an 1886 Victorian home and the kitchen isn't slated until February.
Then I saw some pipe tape that I had laying on the counter from the valve project (why didnt you guys think of this!!!!) I wrapped the bucket and funnel separately. After attaching the ring I put it upside down in my Brewpot and it leaked
I pulled the ring off and wrapped the bucket and funnel together and it worked no leaks with about 3 gallons of water in the thing.
BTW I know my kitchen looks like something out of a Rob Zombie movie but we are doing a full restoration on an 1886 Victorian home and the kitchen isn't slated until February.
ScubaSteve
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2007
- Messages
- 3,673
- Reaction score
- 91
I love threads like this.....it's all about seeing if it can be done! Why not take that funnel you have and put it in the bottom of a sanke? You could probably silver solder it and get a pretty sanitary seal. OR, just cut the bottom out of a slightly larger brewpot and drop it down in there. Then you could keep and use the pot's lid with a seal.....
klyph
Well-Known Member
What kind of clamp are you using? Pics?
Scuba,
Thats why I posted the purchase link for the funnel. I am hoping that a bunch of guys buy them and start experimenting. I personally wanted to build one out of a Sankey but I dont have one so I started working on the retired brew pot.
You know I think a corny with the 8.75(ish) McMaster funnel would give you a stainless conical for under $40. I dont have a corny either or I would be knocking that out.
Since I can see the light at the end of this tunnel I am going to start on a two roller grain mill with bearing, gap adjustment and drill power with rolling pin rollers and try to keep it under $50.
Cheers,
Lg
Thats why I posted the purchase link for the funnel. I am hoping that a bunch of guys buy them and start experimenting. I personally wanted to build one out of a Sankey but I dont have one so I started working on the retired brew pot.
You know I think a corny with the 8.75(ish) McMaster funnel would give you a stainless conical for under $40. I dont have a corny either or I would be knocking that out.
Since I can see the light at the end of this tunnel I am going to start on a two roller grain mill with bearing, gap adjustment and drill power with rolling pin rollers and try to keep it under $50.
Cheers,
Lg
I am using a clamp from Gemplers it is like $5
http://www.gemplers.com/product/4310-1/Replacement-Lever-lock-Ring-Metal-Pails
It came 20 hours after I ordered it and it does the trick but, I would like to have one with a bolt closure.
Lg
rico567
Well-Known Member
This is an ingenious idea, using off-the shelf stainless components to produce a cheap conical. I believe that the end of the funnel can be dealt with and will function, but I'm a whole lot less sure about sealing the entire circumference of the union between the funnel and the pot.
I agree with the post & pic that some kind of barrel lid clamp (or the same kind of arrangement) is going to be the only answer, because it will come the closest to applying uniform pressure around the entire seal. It depends on how heavy the metal of the funnel and pot is, but if it's as light gauge as some I've seen, I'm afraid that any attempt to apply clamps at intervals around the circumference of this rig is just going to distort the seal enough to result in an annoying series of leaks.
Not trying to be negative here, just pointing out a potential problem.
I agree with the post & pic that some kind of barrel lid clamp (or the same kind of arrangement) is going to be the only answer, because it will come the closest to applying uniform pressure around the entire seal. It depends on how heavy the metal of the funnel and pot is, but if it's as light gauge as some I've seen, I'm afraid that any attempt to apply clamps at intervals around the circumference of this rig is just going to distort the seal enough to result in an annoying series of leaks.
Not trying to be negative here, just pointing out a potential problem.
Wayne,
Are you going to do the corny keg conical or the roller mill idea?
either way I will let you know my concept. I can only work on one project at a time or I will never finish anything. BTW thanks for the write-up on soldering stainless. This Funnel will end up brazed to something.
Lg
I'm thinking the corny keg would be interesting to play with but I really don't want to cut one. I think I'll find a funnel and kettle to work with.
Bad part is a conical will not work in my setup. I use chest freezers, so I would have to do it mainly as an experiment, not for actual use in my brewery.
Bad part is a conical will not work in my setup. I use chest freezers, so I would have to do it mainly as an experiment, not for actual use in my brewery.
Wayne,
I was thinking of that same problem myself. I want to have three of these conicals on display in my barroom so it would have to be in the open. The way I figured I would cool it is to have a 1 wrap immersion chiller in the conical with the inlet and outlet going through the top of the conicals.
Then I would have a plastic barrel in the chest freezer, filled with water at serving temperature. I would then attach a chugger pump (on temp control device). So in the end you would have a closed system being cooled by your chest freezer.
What do you think,
Lg
That plan would probably work out ok if you have 3 simultaneous split fermentations.
To get separate control you would need some logic and solenoids to control flow to individual conicals.
To get separate control you would need some logic and solenoids to control flow to individual conicals.
MarshyTheKid
Well-Known Member
This idea is pure awesome.
tigmaster
Well-Known Member
yeah u should contact a process pipe welder and get that welded together...
hotrodtrash
Active Member
have you considered welding the funnel to the kettle but having the bottom (top) of it being held on with 4 ammo box clamps and a rubber seal?
EarthBound
Well-Known Member
Has anyone seen this guy's conical? It seems to be easier and cheaper because it's copper.
Guys I am sorry that I havent updated this but I have been busy. I recieved the Ebay boil kettle
http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?site=ww...80281359337&fromMakeTrack=true#ht_2295wt_1139
and it is the EXACT diameter as the funnel. I wrapped both the funnel and the pot with thread tape and locked them together with the bucket ring and it worked beautifully. Unfortunately I have A leak in the rivet that holds the handle on the pot. I think I will hit it with some silicone, build a stand and throw some wort in the thing.
Has anyone started experimenting with their own funnel yet?
Lg
http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?site=ww...80281359337&fromMakeTrack=true#ht_2295wt_1139
and it is the EXACT diameter as the funnel. I wrapped both the funnel and the pot with thread tape and locked them together with the bucket ring and it worked beautifully. Unfortunately I have A leak in the rivet that holds the handle on the pot. I think I will hit it with some silicone, build a stand and throw some wort in the thing.
Has anyone started experimenting with their own funnel yet?
Lg
Berniep
Well-Known Member
Rivets can be tightened up easily with two hammers one larger one on the inside or a heavy piece of metal and smack the outside of the rivet and it will tighten up enough to seal most of the time. I have fixed lots of rivets in John boats this way when others smear silicone over them in a failed attempt to get them to quit leaking.
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2010
- Messages
- 14,612
- Reaction score
- 3,600
Any progress/update on this?
bgrubb7
Well-Known Member
A little solder would seal 'em up nice and be much better than silicone...
Lg, This is Brilliant!
I too have been interested in the benefits of a conical, but not in paying the price. Kudos to you for doing the leg work that I believe is going to result in a workable solution. Regarding a suitable gasket, I wonder if it wouldn't be possible to fabricate one in place using a silicon sealant materal. I'm curious how much of a gap needs to be filled? Could you not wax both surfaces and apply a liquid sealant, form the gasket and then trim?
My main concern, of course, is the possibility of leakage or breakage of the joint. To have 5 gallons of fermenting wort loose in the kitchen would be a disaster indeed. Having said that however, the ability to break this thing in half for cleaning is very cool. I'm glad to see the band clamp you are using has a a place for a locking pin to be installed so it doesn't accidentally pop open. With that feature, I believe a band clamp is a very sound idea. I've got one that holds the two halves of my 60 gallon swimming pool heater together under high pressure, and it's held for almost 20 years.
I'm ordering my funnel and ring tonight. the pot will come later if I can't find one locally.
Once this thing is working, I'm going to figure out a way to install a glycol chilling system. I've got an old water cooler sitting around here that I've been dying to make something out of!
Thanks for all your good work. Keep 'em coming!
I too have been interested in the benefits of a conical, but not in paying the price. Kudos to you for doing the leg work that I believe is going to result in a workable solution. Regarding a suitable gasket, I wonder if it wouldn't be possible to fabricate one in place using a silicon sealant materal. I'm curious how much of a gap needs to be filled? Could you not wax both surfaces and apply a liquid sealant, form the gasket and then trim?
My main concern, of course, is the possibility of leakage or breakage of the joint. To have 5 gallons of fermenting wort loose in the kitchen would be a disaster indeed. Having said that however, the ability to break this thing in half for cleaning is very cool. I'm glad to see the band clamp you are using has a a place for a locking pin to be installed so it doesn't accidentally pop open. With that feature, I believe a band clamp is a very sound idea. I've got one that holds the two halves of my 60 gallon swimming pool heater together under high pressure, and it's held for almost 20 years.
I'm ordering my funnel and ring tonight. the pot will come later if I can't find one locally.
Once this thing is working, I'm going to figure out a way to install a glycol chilling system. I've got an old water cooler sitting around here that I've been dying to make something out of!
Thanks for all your good work. Keep 'em coming!
jonp9576
Well-Known Member
i might attempt the corny idea
Hey guys,
Sorry I haven't followed up on the project. I am remodeling my kitchen at this time and wont be able to play with it for a while. Feel free to post your projects on this thread, This isn't a one man show.
I think the gasket is going to be the big variable for everyone on this project. I think the pipe tape works well but others will be turned off by it. As for dumping wort on the kitchen floor, I always thought that I would put sanitizer in it over night and then replace with wort to guarantee a good seal.
Good luck guys, I will jump back in when I get a chance.
Lg
Sorry I haven't followed up on the project. I am remodeling my kitchen at this time and wont be able to play with it for a while. Feel free to post your projects on this thread, This isn't a one man show.
I think the gasket is going to be the big variable for everyone on this project. I think the pipe tape works well but others will be turned off by it. As for dumping wort on the kitchen floor, I always thought that I would put sanitizer in it over night and then replace with wort to guarantee a good seal.
Good luck guys, I will jump back in when I get a chance.
Lg
