Stacking fermenters?

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hilljack13

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Other than plastic buckets, are there any fermenters that are stackable? Preferably something that would fit in a side-by-side fridge. I have to measure the inside of mine but I believe the inside height would be more than 55". I have looked at Spike and SSbrew. Only option seems to be SSBrew, but I couldn't find documentation on doing this. I am not looking to pressure transfer either. Anyone try this?

Edit: Spike flex vs SSB Bucket
 
And I think easiest way would be to put a shelf above the first. Thinking I like Spike the more videos I watch. I really need to measure the fridge...
 
Like Spartan mentioned, I've seen the SSBrewtech's. They were stackable with no shelf needed I believe due to their flat lids. Maybe the Spike (non-pressurized version) is the same? I have a Spike, but mine has the dome lid for pressurized fermentations. It is heavy for it's size.

If pressure transfers are not important, I'd be tempted to look at some stainless milk cans from Amazon. They have different sizes. You can get the 30L (8 gal) for $134. Much cheaper than the Flex ($265) and SS Brewtech 7 gallon bucket ($200). Link to Amazon

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Like Spartan mentioned, I've seen the SSBrewtech's. They were stackable with no shelf needed I believe due to their flat lids. Maybe the Spike (non-pressurized version) is the same? I have a Spike, but mine has the dome lid for pressurized fermentations. It is heavy for it's size.

If pressure transfers are not important, I'd be tempted to look at some stainless milk cans from Amazon. They have different sizes. You can get the 30L (8 gal) for $134. Much cheaper than the Flex ($265) and SS Brewtech 7 gallon bucket ($200). Link to Amazon

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I would have never thought! This forum is truly awesome!
 
Have you had any issues with leaks? Some of the reviews I have read mentioned this.
Definitely. They love to leak. Super frustrating, but you get used to how much pressure to hand tighten. Keg lube also helps.

Not saying I'd vouch for SS Brewtech, but that's the equipment I use. It's overpriced. There are plenty of other companies now that make high quality stuff. Just not sure it's stackable.
 
Other than plastic buckets, are there any fermenters that are stackable? Preferably something that would fit in a side-by-side fridge.
Won't you need a pretty darn tall fridge to house 2 of those brew buckets, stacked.

I can stack 2 regular 6.5 gallon plastic brew buckets in my upright freezer. I'd need to add a spacer in between to create space for the bottom airlock/blow-off. Then 2 of those stacks can go side by side, for 4 fermenters total.
 
Won't you need a pretty darn tall fridge to house 2 of those brew buckets, stacked.

I can stack 2 regular 6.5 gallon plastic brew buckets in my upright freezer. I'd need to add a spacer in between to create space for the bottom airlock/blow-off. Then 2 of those stacks can go side by side, for 4 fermenters total.
I have a side by side door fridge. If these are around 21-25" tall with airlock, according to the specs, I should be able to stack. I think I would rather put a shelf in. I should know in about a week which is when I can get the inside dimensions.
 
I haven't had leaks in my brewbuckets beyond the o-rings wearing out, but they were years old at that point, and even then emergency bubblegum for that brew was a matter of giving the spigot a tiny twist. I've had my buckets for 5+ years and I'm still on the spare o-rings that came with the buckets.

I take the spigot off for every cleaning. To assemble, I screw the nut on snug, grab hold of it with my fingers, and give the spigot a ~60-90 degree turn with my other hand. Since I don't use the "rotating" racking arm -- it should be called a joking arm -- the spigot is in a static orientation until disassembly, and I can tighten it slightly more than if I was planning to turn the arm.

I think I've stacked mine once. It does work, but the setup doesn't induce confidence if there's actual liquid in the buckets. Plus, if you want to lift the top one off or touch it in any way, know that the lids flex worth in the order of 1dL: you'll get suckback with an airlock if the pressure applied on the bottom lid diminishes. The ones in the photo are almost certainly empty (many lids are not latched), and I wouldn't dream of stacking them 3-high when full.

I also think they are overpriced for the build quality, and I got them cheaper than the current MAP. I was at one point considering getting 33% cheaper and 20% larger replacements, but when I saw welding seams on the inside I reconsidered. The brewbucket is one smooth surface, so at least that's done right. I also find the spigot useful, also for gravity-driven closed transfers, and would not get a fermentor without one. Some of the fancy fermentors with 57 triclamp ports look nice, but I cringe when I think about cleaning; I guess it works if you have a CIP setup. The choice to put the thermowell on the lid in the "improved"[-in-price] brewbucket 2.0 is a dealbreaker for me, so if the originals run out and I need another fermentor, I'm not getting a brewbucket.

So, I can't really recommend brewbuckets, but I can't currently recommend anything else either, and if you want stackability, it works, at least sort of. (oh, and I paid for mine with my own money, as you can probably deduce from actual criticism towards the product)
 
I've had 2 brew buckets going on 5 years. I got them for the sole reason I can stack them. I use an upright freezer, can stack two and put a carboy on the side (14ft³ or 16). I think I've had one or two leaks in 50 + uses, but I've had leaks on other fermenter over the years, too (big mouths.)
When I'm sanitizing the buckets I turn them upside down rest them on their lid for several minutes and any leaks are pretty obvious adjust the gasket and move on. For my application I can't find anything better. I saw the newer versions and they are even nicer, inside racking arm is silicone, thermo well, etc. Also much easier to clean than a lot of alternatives out there.
 

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When I'm sanitizing the buckets I turn them upside down rest them on their lid for several minutes and any leaks are pretty obvious adjust the gasket and move on.
Are you talking about detecting a lid gasket leak by turning the bucket upside down, or are those two things in the sentence unrelated? If you do it with liquid in the bucket the airlock hole in the lid is a pretty obvious leak. Is it just to let residual sanitizer drain onto the lid from where it's easy to fling away to discard? If the latter, I might copy that into my process, as I currently drain them on a rack over the kitchen sink (both after sanitizing and washing).

I don't think I've ever had a lid gasket leak, and didn't know it was even a thing...
For my application I can't find anything better. I saw the newer versions and they are even nicer, inside racking arm is silicone, thermo well, etc. Also much easier to clean than a lot of alternatives out there.
Do you know of anyone who isn't in ssbrewtech's pocket having reviewed the silicone valve? (honest question)

The improved thermowell being on the lid might prevent your upside-down trick, with the thermowell protruding out of the lid.
 
I've had 2 brew buckets going on 5 years. I got them for the sole reason I can stack them. I use an upright freezer, can stack two and put a carboy on the side (14ft³ or 16). I think I've had one or two leaks in 50 + uses, but I've had leaks on other fermenter over the years, too (big mouths.)
When I'm sanitizing the buckets I turn them upside down rest them on their lid for several minutes and any leaks are pretty obvious adjust the gasket and move on. For my application I can't find anything better. I saw the newer versions and they are even nicer, inside racking arm is silicone, thermo well, etc. Also much easier to clean than a lot of alternatives out there.
Awesome! Exactly what I plan on doing. Only difference is I have side-by-side door fridge.
 
Are you talking about detecting a lid gasket leak by turning the bucket upside down, or are those two things in the sentence unrelated? If you do it with liquid in the bucket the airlock hole in the lid is a pretty obvious leak. Is it just to let residual sanitizer drain onto the lid from where it's easy to fling away to discard? If the latter, I might copy that into my process, as I currently drain them on a rack over the kitchen sink (both after sanitizing and washing).

I don't think I've ever had a lid gasket leak, and didn't know it was even a thing...

Do you know of anyone who isn't in ssbrewtech's pocket having reviewed the silicone valve? (honest question)

The improved thermowell being on the lid might prevent your upside-down trick, with the thermowell protruding out of the lid.
Yes detecting leaks in the top gasket. I plug the hole with a cork, put a couple gallons of sanitizer in it, flip the whole thing upside down - sanitizes and checks for leaks. The cork goes in from the underside of the lid so it seals the hole and can be flipped over. Nothing leaks out unless the gasket isn't seated right.

I have v.1 of the bucket. I have only seen the new buckets, not used one, which has a silicone racking arm inside the bucket. The valve isn't silicone. My racking arm is stainless steel with a couple tiny o-rings. The silicone one elimates the the little gaskets.

Does the thermowell stick out on top to prevent flipping over?
 
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Yes detecting leaks in the top gasket. I plug the hole with a cork, put a couple gallons of sanitizer in it, flip the whole thing upside down - sanitizes and checks for leaks. The cork goes in from the underside of the lid so it seals the hole and can be flipped over. Nothing leaks out unless the gasket isn't seated right.
I see. I've never had a lid gasket leak, as in there's positive or negative pressure on the airlock post-fermentation. I insert the gasket with the half-quarter-quarter-eighth-.... method.
Does the thermowell stick out on top to prevent flipping over?
No, but especially with gallons of liquid inside you like have to set it on some surface, e.g. edge of the table, where it doesn't come into contact with the surface.

If I'd have to guess, the decision to move the thermowell from the bucket body to the lid is a cost-cutting logistics thing for them, and they're just trying to hype it up and sugarcoat it by saying that it's better for brewing small batches. The thermowell on the bucket body works just fine for 10L/2.5gal batches, and as far as I'm concerned it didn't need fixing, especially not in a way which makes removing the lid inconvenient to impossible when the fermentor is in a half-height fridge.
 
Finally got the measurements for my refrigerator soon to be fermentation chamber. H-58", W-17" right side & 12" left side. The left side won't be able to use except for my 1 gal batches. It also means no SS Brew Bucket. Spike it is.

For those that have Spike Flex(+), is the racking arm the same or different? The manual lists Racking arm vs TC Racking arm for the two.
 
So this is something I overlooked and I am glad you mention this. Going to be a no go for this. If I do go this route, shelving is a must.

I have a couple Brew Buckets. Like 'em a lot, but the flexing of the lid does cause suckback or CO2 pushing out, depending on direction of pressure. Even lifting by the handles can cause enough flexing to move air or liquid in/out of the airlock. Not a problem for me as I use CO2 Harvesters which isolate the airlock from the fermenter. But do know that Brew Buckets are made from rather thin metal.

O-rings for the rotating dip tube are an issue. Plan on replacing them frequently. They like to stretch and roll out of their grooves, ensuring a leaky seal if you're not careful. I bought plenty of replacements from the O-Ring Store, 1mm x 8.5mm buna rings, IIRC.

Edit: For replacing o-rings that seal the valve to the bulkhead, you need 2.4 x 15.8mm buna o-rings. These are a bit thicker and seal better than the stock 1.8mm thick rings that come with the Brew Bucket.
 
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Curious what ruled out the mega mouth kegs Better price, better pressure ratings, made for stacking.
Never heard of them. I can look though, not purchasing for few months so plenty of time to consider options.
 
Finally got the measurements for my refrigerator soon to be fermentation chamber. H-58", W-17" right side & 12" left side. The left side won't be able to use except for my 1 gal batches. It also means no SS Brew Bucket. Spike it is.

For those that have Spike Flex(+), is the racking arm the same or different? The manual lists Racking arm vs TC Racking arm for the two.


I have the Flex + and mine is the TC racking arm. I don't think there is a "standard" as the racking arms for the conicals and flexes are the same TC connection. The difference is one has to be added, and the other it's included in purchase. I have both the Flex+ and the CF-10 and I can't remember which one had to have that added.

That being said, the Flex+ is a brute of a fermenter as far as sizes go. IMO, it's going to eat up a lot of space on the 17"W portion of your side x side fridge. The Flex+s are also not stackable since they have a dome lid. If it were me, I'd go with @apache_brew's suggestion of going with the Mega-mouth corny kegs from More Beer. They are smaller in diameter (11.5"?), so you should be able to fit two on boths sides of your fridges. They are also (much) cheaper and stackable so would be perfect for someone like you who's using a side by side fridge as a fermentation chamber.
 
I assume these (Torpedo keg) are what you are talking about? With these I would have to pressure ferment? Definitely cheaper since I will be kegging anyway, I just wasn't ready to look at pressure fermenting just yet. I'll take some time to look into this method.
 
I assume these (Torpedo keg) are what you are talking about? With these I would have to pressure ferment? Definitely cheaper since I will be kegging anyway, I just wasn't ready to look at pressure fermenting just yet. I'll take some time to look into this method.
Yep, I linked those in my first post. You don’t have to pressure ferment unless you want to. All that consists of would be a spunding device that you adapt to the gas post like a Kegland Blowtie. Just run a blowoff tube from the gas post to a jar of starsan as an airlock. Fermenting in kegs is tried and true and these new style with oversized lids are definitely targeted for use as a fermenter. Could easily add a tri clamp ferrule to the center lid if you wanted to for things like dry hopping, etc.. Grab a floating dip tube w/screen and you’re good to go. Racking canes/thermo wells are overrated. Just duct tape a temperature probe to the side of the keg with insulation over it. Carbonate and serve out of it if you want to.
 
Yep, I linked those in my first post. You don’t have to pressure ferment unless you want to. All that consists of would be a spunding device that you adapt to the gas post like a Kegland Blowtie. Just run a blowoff tube from the gas post to a jar of starsan as an airlock. Fermenting in kegs is tried and true and these new style with oversized lids are definitely targeted for use as a fermenter. Could easily add a tri clamp ferrule to the center lid if you wanted to for things like dry hopping, etc.. Grab a floating dip tube w/screen and you’re good to go. Racking canes/thermo wells are overrated. Just duct tape a temperature probe to the side of the keg with insulation over it. Carbonate and serve out of it if you want to.

Thanks. Much simpler than what I was reading!
 
If you are planning on stacking, you won't have airlocks on (at least I wouldn't recommend airlocks with stacking). So suckback shouldn't be an issue. You'd ideally have blowoff tubes. I've only had suckback of that great distance one time, and it was a warm beer that slowly cooled inside the fermenter.

At least that is what I do when I stack anything. I don't like moving things around that are that heavy after putting them in place. Besides, you stack the newer beer on the bottom to avoid moving them unnecessarily.

An ideal solution, and I am patenting this now as I think of it, would be a side port on the top of every fermenter to allow us to have an airlock/blowoff tube connected on the profile. And most of them have ports already so it would not add to the girth. I'll call it the SuprPort - The Solution To Stacking Woes.
 
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