Spike Conical- observations and best practices

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KookyBrewsky said:
Has anyone carbonated a finished beer in this conical (with the proper accessories) and drank the batch from it? That's what I'm interested in. Coupled with the TC-100 for temp control, this looks like it could be the perfect setup for someone that has too much family to build anything substantially sized for kegging; bottling is my go-to and will be for the foreseeable future. But if I can ferment, carbonate, then drink straight from the sampling valve, it would be a very cool piece of kit...
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The only downside to serving from a conical is that you have to wait until you drink the last beer before using it for the next batch. Besides that, I love mine (a CF10). Gonna brew a 2 Hearted clone this weekend.
 
Yesfan said:
Will be for me too when I get around to upgrading.

That and their yeast brink are top of my list of accessories for my CF10.
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Unless you need a 2" port in the coiling cool lid for something else and because you are planning on buying a yeast brink, you would not need both for hop additions. The yeast brink easily injects hops.

Besides, the yeast brink offers more options and flexibility in that it can inject almost anything (hops, yeast, spices, etc.).
 
Zooksta are your cracking the hop port and letting the co2 from fermentation purge the oxygen out?

I have also wandered about the yeast brink and purging the oxygen out once the hops have been added. There doesn’t seem to be enough folks dry hopping with it yet to get any sort of feedback but it looks promising.
 
jturman35 said:
Zooksta are your cracking the hop port and letting the co2 from fermentation purge the oxygen out?

I have also wandered about the yeast brink and purging the oxygen out once the hops have been added. There doesn’t seem to be enough folks dry hopping with it yet to get any sort of feedback but it looks promising.
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Then you haven't been reading posts or threads. O2 is not an issue. But don't take my word for it as you can: 1) call Jay; 2) watch his videos; 3) go back and read various posts or perform all three items.
 
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jturman35 said:
Zooksta are your cracking the hop port and letting the co2 from fermentation purge the oxygen out?

I have also wandered about the yeast brink and purging the oxygen out once the hops have been added. There doesn’t seem to be enough folks dry hopping with it yet to get any sort of feedback but it looks promising.
Click to expand...

I gotta say... i would alrrady have the norcal yeast brink but i dont have a setup for the leg extensions. There at least a half dozen brewers on here using and loving their brink. Plus like 2 or 3 user videos. Plus Jay's video.
I have purchases a few items from Jay (norcal). All quality stuff and he cares. I miss his retail shop but i was only in redding once a year.
Scroll back thru this thread. You'll be sold i bet!!
 
Nate R said:
I gotta say... i would alrrady have the norcal yeast brink but i dont have a setup for the leg extensions....
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Hey Nate, you don't need leg extensions. I'm sure you have seen my setup where I have my CF10 sitting on a bar and the yeast brink hangs down past the front ledge of the bar. Maybe you can do something similar with your CF5.
 
CodeSection said:
Hey Nate, you don't need leg extensions. I'm sure you have seen my setup where I have my CF10 sitting on a bar and the yeast brink hangs down past the front ledge of the bar. Maybe you can do something similar with your CF5.
Click to expand...
What?!?! lol. Well I just scrolled thru like 10 pages... any chance you can post a pic? I am curious how you make that happen. I have mine on a cart- leg extensions would be too much, but I am curious how you do it
 
Nate R said:
What?!?! lol. Well I just scrolled thru like 10 pages... any chance you can post a pic? I am curious how you make that happen. I have mine on a cart- leg extensions would be too much, but I am curious how you do it
Click to expand...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-brewing-solutions.658695/page-2#post-8771644 Post#53 about to purge O2 and then inject McCormich Pumpkin Spice....

img_2542-jpg.654859
 
Here is my new setup with the addition of the bright tank. As you can see, I can easily hang the yeast brink over the bar's ledge either when attaching to the 2" dump port (dry hopping) or the 1.5" racking port (injecting spices).

IMG_2734(2).jpg
 
Awesome- thank you.
So you use an extra 90 degree elbow for either the 1.5" or the 2" ports?
Cool. I might be able to make it work!
Thanks for the pics- I was searching this thread, not the Jaybird thread.
Much appreciated!
 
Nate R said:
Awesome- thank you.
So you use an extra 90 degree elbow for either the 1.5" or the 2" ports?
Cool. I might be able to make it work!
Thanks for the pics- I was searching this thread, not the Jaybird thread.
Much appreciated!
Click to expand...

I use a 45 degree elbow for the 1.5" port since the port is already angled. With the 45 degree elbow, the YB positions almost vertically. https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_45_Degree_1.5_Inch.html

I use a 90 degree elbow for the 2" port. https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Elbow_90_Degree_2_Inch.html or https://spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/tc-90-elbow
 
CodeSection said:
Then you haven't been reading posts or threads. O2 is not an issue. But don't take my word for it as you can: 1) call Jay; 2) watch his videos; 3) go back and read various posts or perform all three items.
Click to expand...

I have read a good bit of this thread, forgive me its 40 something pages and watched several video's. I don't understand how flooding a jar full of hops with the same beer you plan on drinking is not introducing oxygen? I get that the air vents out, but how is this also not introducing oxygen in the beer in the same process? Seems like adding a second port would allow those who are paranoid of o2 such as myself a way to purge the container with co2.
 
jturman35 said:
I have read a good bit of this thread, forgive me its 40 something pages and watched several video's. I don't understand how flooding a jar full of hops with the same beer you plan on drinking is not introducing oxygen? I get that the air vents out, but how is this also not introducing oxygen in the beer in the same process? Seems like adding a second port would allow those who are paranoid of o2 such as myself a way to purge the container with co2.
Click to expand...

Same thing just happened to me above!! Lol!!
Read this thread!!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-brink-from-nor-cal-brewing-solutions.658695/

It has all the parts about oxygen, etc.

Hope this helps!
 
jturman35 said:
I have read a good bit of this thread, forgive me its 40 something pages and watched several video's. I don't understand how flooding a jar full of hops with the same beer you plan on drinking is not introducing oxygen? I get that the air vents out, but how is this also not introducing oxygen in the beer in the same process? Seems like adding a second port would allow those who are paranoid of o2 such as myself a way to purge the container with co2.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you read @mongoose33's suggestion of adding a second gas port to the YB lid to allow purging with CO2. Jay can easily add that port if you want it.

If I'm understanding your question correctly, I guess the beer flowing into the YB and pushing out the O2 via the gas port with a blowoff hose attached is technically exposed to the O2 that is already in the YB at the top of the beer as it is flowing up through the YB for the first time. I have no real idea what the level of O2 absorption is with such a very small surface area being exposed for such a short time (literally seconds). Then when that beer, either with hops or spices, is eventually injected back into 6.3 or 11.3 gallons of beer in the fermenter, you are using CO2. You can purge the fermenter with more CO2 if you feel that is necessary.

Personally, I am not concerned with any very small, fractional O2 absorption that may occur from the YB filling up with beer for the very first time. Plus, any fractional amount is further diluted in the larger fermenter volume. Plus, I could always purge the fermenter with additional CO2.

Again, if you feel that potential O2 absorption is significant, then by all means have Jay add a second port to the YB lid.
 
I feel like the guy that's late to the party, just hope you guys left me some beer! Ever since the HB app quit working on my phone it's made searching the forum a little more tedious.

No, I didn't see Mongoose's comment, I thought he was dropping his hops threw the top. Correct, because your injecting this through the beer i do feel like there needs to be extra precaution specifically with Neipa's. I'm just playing Devils advocate here. I really like the YB compared to dropping the hops through the top due to all the extra parts and pieces needed.

I think this is the way to do it below, plus i don't have to worry about the extra room needed for my set up. This seems to accomplish the same goal. I don't see any reason this wouldn't work, plus i don;t need leg extensions.


c71a6a3f-18e8-4895-b28b-da96b33e920e-jpeg.607408
 
jturman35 said:
I feel like the guy that's late to the party, just hope you guys left me some beer! Ever since the HB app quit working on my phone it's made searching the forum a little more tedious.

No, I didn't see Mongoose's comment, I thought he was dropping his hops threw the top. Correct, because your injecting this through the beer i do feel like there needs to be extra precaution specifically with Neipa's. I'm just playing Devils advocate here. I really like the YB compared to dropping the hops through the top due to all the extra parts and pieces needed.

I think this is the way to do it below, plus i don't have to worry about the extra room needed for my set up. This seems to accomplish the same goal. I don't see any reason this wouldn't work, plus i don;t need leg extensions.


c71a6a3f-18e8-4895-b28b-da96b33e920e-jpeg.607408
Click to expand...

Its nice that homebrewers have taken their existing equipment and have found other uses for it. In your case, your yeast harvester is providing a solution for your needs. What is your process?

Is it something like this since you have only one gas port? 1) Fill your yeast harvester with hops; 2) connect hose to lid; 3) connect to the gas line on the YH and purge with CO2; 4) after purging, connect other end of hose to dump port; 5) open dump valve and allow beer to flow which in turns pushes the CO2 and any left over O2 out the gas blow off tubing; 6) turn the YH upside down and add CO2 pressure and inject the hops through the dump port.

I could basically achieve the same CO2 purge with the YB by putting the dry hops in it and then loosening the TC where it attaches to the dump valve and purge with CO2. However, that process would not work with dry spices or a solution spice additive (I use a French Press) since the dry spices or solution would blow out at the loosen TC connection.

A possible advantage with your YH method is that it appears you may not need many multiple injections since all of the hops should be able to inject into the fermenter. The YB needs multiple injections since there is a gap between the down tube and the bottom of the sight glass or jar that allows some hops to settle.

I like my process better as everything is connected in one place and there is less movement and handling of the YH. IMHO, not handling the YH is a big advantage since at any time it is being used it could be dropped. Just look how how many hydrometers are broken. With the YH you still would need to lower it below the dump valve at some point to allow beer to flow in. In the end, as I wrote above, any fractional small amount of O2 that may be present is not of a concern. Though, loosening the TC connection and purging when adding hops is a good process.

Again, I'm glad you found a solution for your needs. Your process might give other homebrewers ideas to follow.
 
CodeSection said:
Its nice that homebrewers have taken their existing equipment and have found other uses for it. In your case, your yeast harvester is providing a solution for your needs. What is your process?

Is it something like this since you have only one gas port? 1) Fill your yeast harvester with hops; 2) connect hose to lid; 3) connect to the gas line on the YH and purge with CO2; 4) after purging, connect other end of hose to dump port; 5) open dump valve and allow beer to flow which in turns pushes the CO2 and any left over O2 out the gas blow off tubing; 6) turn the YH upside down and add CO2 pressure and inject the hops through the dump port.

I could basically achieve the same CO2 purge with the YB by putting the dry hops in it and then loosening the TC where it attaches to the dump valve and purge with CO2. However, that process would not work with dry spices or a solution spice additive (I use a French Press) since the dry spices or solution would blow out at the loosen TC connection.

A possible advantage with your YH method is that it appears you may not need many multiple injections since all of the hops should be able to inject into the fermenter. The YB needs multiple injections since there is a gap between the down tube and the bottom of the sight glass or jar that allows some hops to settle.

I like my process better as everything is connected in one place and there is less movement and handling of the YH. IMHO, not handling the YH is a big advantage since at any time it is being used it could be dropped. Just look how how many hydrometers are broken. With the YH you still would need to lower it below the dump valve at some point to allow beer to flow in. In the end, as I wrote above, any fractional small amount of O2 that may be present is not of a concern. Though, loosening the TC connection and purging when adding hops is a good process.

Again, I'm glad you found a solution for your needs. Your process might give other homebrewers ideas to follow.
Click to expand...


I agree, but the the YH may be better if you don't have a conical or a vessel with a dump valve. I remember that picture from the thread you linked (a few posts above yours). That guy, ttuato, upgraded from his Spiedel to a Flex+. His method seems to work perfect for the Flex+ too.

I have both the Flex+ and the CF10. After seeing that post in the other thread, I'm thinking of getting the YB w/ mason jar, vs the sight glass, as well as the YH body (without the mason jar). This way I can use the mason jars between the two for harvesting yeast and injecting hops/spices. Those two together are about $33 cheaper than the 3" sight glass brink.
 
Yesfan said:
I have both the Flex+ and the CF10.
Click to expand...

I'd be interested in learning more about this, if you don't mind. Which one did you get first? Why did you choose to get the other, after the purchase of the first? Size only (although you can do a 5 gal batch in the CF10)? Pros and cons of each? If you had to choose only one, which one would you choose?

I keep flipping between the Flex+ and the CF5. Price matters, of course, but so does functionality. Although I'm not sure I'd get full benefits of all of the functionality of the CF5. Maybe I'm wrong though.
 
specialkayme said:
I'd be interested in learning more about this, if you don't mind. Which one did you get first? Why did you choose to get the other, after the purchase of the first? Size only (although you can do a 5 gal batch in the CF10)? Pros and cons of each? If you had to choose only one, which one would you choose?

I keep flipping between the Flex+ and the CF5. Price matters, of course, but so does functionality. Although I'm not sure I'd get full benefits of all of the functionality of the CF5. Maybe I'm wrong though.
Click to expand...


I bought the Flex+ first. Spike had a Black Friday sale at the time, so I went with it over the CF5 (which was what I really wanted). At the time I was willing to pay a little more for the CF5, but impulse got the better of me. I don't regret my purchase as it's a great fermenter.

The CF10 I sprung for later. The main purpose was to use it for my 10 gallon batches so I could keep two of my Fermonster carboys open for two 5 gallon batches. I got to really hating using two of my four carboys for a 10 gallon batch. It's nice to have one vessel for those batches now.

Pros/Cons of each?

Flex+ is a great purchase for the price. Love that all the ports are welded triclamps. You can also do pressurized fermentations in it and it also has a lot of accessories for it like their conicals. The main con that I see is no dump valve for harvesting yeast. I plan on getting a yeast brink, so that might make the CFs that much more appealing vs the Flex/Flex+

CF10 biggest pro for me is fermenting a much larger batch in one vessel vs splitting it to two smaller ones. It also has the ability to do trub dumps/yeast harvesting. The main con is price. I say that lightly as I do think it's a pretty great conical for the money. When you add on all the other accessories though, then the cost goes up. I look at Spike's conicals, or any brand conical for that matter, much like kegging. Kegs average about $45-$55 dollars used, but you have to also figure in cost of co2, kegerator/keezer buy or builds, taps, etc. There's an upfront cost, but once that's made they are really worth their money, imo.

So which would I choose, the CF10 or the Flex+ if I could only have one? Easy, the CF10. It's just more flexible (for lack of a better word) than the Flex+. I would choose the CF5 over the Flex+ as well if that's what you're looking at.

I know I could do 5 gallon batches in the CF10, but to be honest, doing half batches in that is like never burying the throttle on that suped up hot rod you just bought.

On another note. The CF conicals do not come with a racking arm, even though the Flexes do. IMO, if you go with the CF, I would highly recommend the racking arm, casters, and bracing shelf. These things are heavy when full of wort. I added those (along with the extension legs) to mine and don't regret it. Hope this helps.
 
+1 to all the above.
One thing about the cf series is you can "pay as you go" and add accesories over time. As long as you spend $100 you get free shipping from Spike. High Gravity brewing also resells most accesories as well.
 
jturman35 said:
Zooksta are your cracking the hop port and letting the co2 from fermentation purge the oxygen out?

I have also wandered about the yeast brink and purging the oxygen out once the hops have been added. There doesn’t seem to be enough folks dry hopping with it yet to get any sort of feedback but it looks promising.
Click to expand...


Yes, that is the idea. The co2 from fermentation will purge the oxygen. I also have a 3 inch tee I can install above the reducer and purge with co2 after the hops are added.

I have the yeast brink with 1/2 gallon mason jar, but it didn't work out too well for me. I couldn't put more than four ounces of pellets in it at a time without it clogging, it was a very time consuming process to dry hop 15 gallons of IPA, for dry hopping it will be much easier to drop the pellets in through the top.

I could see the YB working well for injecting spices or other liquids into your CF, it's just not for me- for dry hopping.

It was easy enough for me to purge the YB though, I filled it with star san and pushed the star san out with co2 before hooking it up to the CF.
 
Zooksta said:
Yes, that is the idea. The co2 from fermentation will purge the oxygen. I also have a 3 inch tee I can install above the reducer and purge with co2 after the hops are added.

I have the yeast brink with 1/2 gallon mason jar, but it didn't work out too well for me. I couldn't put more than four ounces of pellets in it at a time without it clogging, it was a very time consuming process to dry hop 15 gallons of IPA, for dry hopping it will be much easier to drop the pellets in through the top.

I could see the YB working well for injecting spices or other liquids into your CF, it's just not for me- for dry hopping.

It was easy enough for me to purge the YB though, I filled it with star san and pushed the star san out with co2 before hooking it up to the CF.
Click to expand...


Good info to know. Thanks. It changes what I want to get next for mine.
 
Got a few questions, What fitting are you using for the Gas connect to hose? I wonder if Home Depot would have this. What's the prcoess for completely removing all of the yeast/trub before purging with co2? I have a sight glass so this wouldn't be a problem, however it seems it would take multiple discharges over several days to get it all out. I didn't know if blowing that back into the beer would causes issues or it just settles back down?

upload_2020-3-26_11-27-52-png.672793
 
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jturman35 said:
Got a few questions, What fitting are you using for the Gas connect to hose? I wonder if Home Depot would have this. What's the prcoess for completely removing all of the yeast/trub before purging with co2? I have a sight glass so this wouldn't be a problem, however it seems it would take multiple discharges over several days to get it all out. I didn't know if blowing that back into the beer would causes issues or it just settles back down?

upload_2020-3-26_11-27-52-png.672793
Click to expand...

You could go with a 2" TC to gas post? I guess it depends on if you prefer camlock, QD, or just TC. :)
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2blg.htm
 
Just get a heater and jacket for my cf5 today. The site says it has a built in thermostat at 90 degrees for a gentle warming. I plugged this in and it gets super hot! Anyone else have a heater? I measured 130 degrees with my thermapen sandwiched between the heater and the top of my chest freezer after a minute or two of being plugged in. I think this is the newer one since it thick and some previous comments say there was an updated version.
 
i have 2 cf15s and a heater and jacket on each one of them. on works great and the other i have not been super happy with. i contacted spike about it and they sent me a new one, same thing, doesnt heat well. i need to take an actual temp reading like you did. i have switched my temp controllers around and everything so i ruled that out. the replacement one they sent me was much thicker. ill see if i can get a temp reading on the heating pad later today.
 
bailey mountain brewer said:
i have 2 cf15s and a heater and jacket on each one of them. on works great and the other i have not been super happy with. i contacted spike about it and they sent me a new one, same thing, doesnt heat well. i need to take an actual temp reading like you did. i have switched my temp controllers around and everything so i ruled that out. the replacement one they sent me was much thicker. ill see if i can get a temp reading on the heating pad later today.
Click to expand...

I wish I had one of those non contact thermometers. I’m pretty sure it’s well over the 130 degrees that the thermapen is reading just being between the heater and another surface. Thank you for checking!
 

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