I'm getting ready to make my first keggle and was thinking of putting on a sight glass, I don't do all grain brewing yet only extract. The reason I'm building a keggle is to do a full boil for better taste. What would be the advantages of having a sight glass if any?
Sight glass on keggle
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Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
With a sight glass/tube assembly you'll KNOW what the level is inside the keggle without having to try and use a stick (of some kind). IMO, it's one of the better things you can add to a keggle, right after installing a ball valve and dip tube. :rockin:
I designed and make/made my own sight glass assembly for my boil keggles. Can't see not using them when you need to measure the volume inside.
I designed and make/made my own sight glass assembly for my boil keggles. Can't see not using them when you need to measure the volume inside.
You made a sightglass?
Was it cheaper than $24 for a prefab 1/2" NPT one? I am tetering on the brink of ordering one but I always enjoy the DIY of this hobby.
I have a coupling right now with a temp probe threaded in...want to extend the coupling with a T so the probe can be mounted in the end and the sight glass can extend upwards. I know they have kits for this but your post made me wonder if there is a cheaper solution.
Was it cheaper than $24 for a prefab 1/2" NPT one? I am tetering on the brink of ordering one but I always enjoy the DIY of this hobby.
I have a coupling right now with a temp probe threaded in...want to extend the coupling with a T so the probe can be mounted in the end and the sight glass can extend upwards. I know they have kits for this but your post made me wonder if there is a cheaper solution.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
No, but I couldn't locate a decent one that didn't use plastic for the tube. So, I made my own with borosilicate glass for the tube.
I pulled the dial thermometers from my mash tun keggle and didn't install one into my boil keggle. Don't miss them one bit since I'm using a Fluke 52II with type K sensors/probes.
Weldless sight tube (on my first boil keggle)
Welded TC fittings for my current boil keggle...
Very nice diggie. I like that a lot.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Thanks... Believe it or not, but the only part that's not 'off the shelf' is the guard tube on it. I had the groove machined in it. The next time I do that, I'll have the tube longer when I give it to the shop, so that I can cut it closer at the top and bottom. Under the nuts, where the tube goes in, is silicone o-rings to hold the tube. I also have one on either end of the welded tube setup, so that the glass isn't directly against the metal inside the fittings. Under the guard tube, over the glass tube, is an o-ring at the top and bottom. That prevents the metal guard from hitting the glass tube.
I do find that when I have the shield metal under the keggle (to block heat from getting directly to the ball valve) positioned so that it's also under the sight tube, the level is rock solid/stable as I boil. Otherwise, the liquid in the tube gets to a boil, and it throws the readings far off (basically recirculates).
I can also clean it in place, by simply running the cleaning solution/water through it from the top fitting.
theDarkPint
Active Member
Golddiggie said:No, but I couldn't locate a decent one that didn't use plastic for the tube. So, I made my own with borosilicate glass for the tube.
I pulled the dial thermometers from my mash tun keggle and didn't install one into my boil keggle. Don't miss them one bit since I'm using a Fluke 52II with type K sensors/probes.
Weldless sight tube (on my first boil keggle)
Welded TC fittings for my current boil keggle...
That... that is the most beautiful keggle I've ever seen.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Dip tube:
Makes it easier to get more wort out of the keggle. Something else I made, since the ones available (from regular vendors) just weren't completely what I needed. Got the tool to bend 1/2" OD stainless tubing and went to it. :rockin:
Makes it easier to get more wort out of the keggle. Something else I made, since the ones available (from regular vendors) just weren't completely what I needed. Got the tool to bend 1/2" OD stainless tubing and went to it. :rockin:
I wish Bobby_M would make them like this. I'd have gladly paid for that. I have an electric system, so instead of worrying about the wort in the sight glass boiling, I have to worry about it not getting hot at all. I've done some testing and the wort in there never gets above 140F.
I'd love to CIP on my system. I brew outdoors, so I just drag the keggles to my grass and hose away.
BTW Goldy, You've got a nice shine on that thing
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
passedpawn, you talking about the shine on the keggle, or my dome??
If you want a break-down of what I used for my setups, PM me. If you go weldless, you could install a fitting inside that make CIP even easier (for the tube).
If you want a break-down of what I used for my setups, PM me. If you go weldless, you could install a fitting inside that make CIP even easier (for the tube).
passedpawn, you talking about the shine on the keggle, or my dome??
both; my attempt at a witty double entendre.
maybe later. I don't even have a structure/platform for my keggles... they just sit on my patio. Might be a while until I get one built (looking to do it in wood). I'm working on my keezer right now. Then helping my brother build his electric system. It never ends, does it.
I'm working on a borosilicate version of my kit now. I suppose the only issue is that most people will not want to pay for what it's going to cost and installing is a bit more tricky. Customers have varying levels of DIY/mechanical aptitude and there were a lot of broken parts and angry people back when I sold unprotected versions of the borosilicate kits. The top return is a nice touch for people who have no sense of control with their burners I have made my polycarbonate kits that way when requested but it is a major pain on kegs since you have to deal with two slight angles.
I have made my polycarbonate kits that way when requested but it is a major pain on kegs since you have to deal with two slight angles.
Back to the OP -
The advantages I see are:
1. Obviously, the ability to add a specific amount of liquid to your pot without using a stick or some other measuring device.
2. In the boil kettle, to be able to monitor your boil-off amount. I realize you can pre-determine your boil-off rate, and judge this by length of time, but I like being able to simply look at the sight glass and know where I am at.
3. Once you do go all grain, if you initially use coolers for an MLT/HLT, you'll most likely heat your strike/sparge water in your boil kettle, then transfer to MLT/HLT. The sight glass is helpful for knowing how much you have run off to either vessel.
The advantages I see are:
1. Obviously, the ability to add a specific amount of liquid to your pot without using a stick or some other measuring device.
2. In the boil kettle, to be able to monitor your boil-off amount. I realize you can pre-determine your boil-off rate, and judge this by length of time, but I like being able to simply look at the sight glass and know where I am at.
3. Once you do go all grain, if you initially use coolers for an MLT/HLT, you'll most likely heat your strike/sparge water in your boil kettle, then transfer to MLT/HLT. The sight glass is helpful for knowing how much you have run off to either vessel.
Flathead screwdriver into the side of the ball, if it is a sanke. Then, you have to get the ring off of it and the whole piece will turn and lift out. There are some good instructions on HBT
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I like using the old coupler (Sanke coupler) that I got with one of the kegs. You can also use a large screwdriver, or ball side of a ball peen hammer. Just put a rag over the valve opening first, unless you want to take an old beer shower.
Oops...forgot to mention that. Good call.
Also, dont do it until you are ready to cut the top because it is sanitized now but once you open it, you need to get it cleaned out.
Give some thought to using it upside down. I wish I had. (ie: cut the bottom and clamp your drain valve to the sanke neck)...MUCH easier to clean and cleaning is 80% of brewing.
Also, dont do it until you are ready to cut the top because it is sanitized now but once you open it, you need to get it cleaned out.
Give some thought to using it upside down. I wish I had. (ie: cut the bottom and clamp your drain valve to the sanke neck)...MUCH easier to clean and cleaning is 80% of brewing.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I'm curious as to how that would work out if you're using propane to heat. I can't see the silicone seals holding up to that kind of temperatures. Are there PTFE seals that could? I have two 'virgin' kegs right now (in the basement
) that I've yet to cut into (or drill). One of the negatives, IMO, to using a keg inverted is you won't be able to use the built-in handles to carry it around once it has something in it.
Ooooohhh sorry. I read so much in the electric brewing forum that is what I was thinking about. For fire underneath, you're right that bottom draining would not work. Sorry
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Yeah... Now, if they made fittings that could be in direct contact with the propane flame, it would be viable. Kind of wish they made some that would be as temperature resilient as the keggle's stainless steel.. 
Highest I've found (anywhere) is only good up to 500F...
Highest I've found (anywhere) is only good up to 500F... No, but I couldn't locate a decent one that didn't use plastic for the tube. So, I made my own with borosilicate glass for the tube.
I pulled the dial thermometers from my mash tun keggle and didn't install one into my boil keggle. Don't miss them one bit since I'm using a Fluke 52II with type K sensors/probes.
Weldless sight tube (on my first boil keggle)
Welded TC fittings for my current boil keggle...
Hi Golddiggie, sorry to revive an old post. I fell in love with your sight gauge. I would like to build three for my herms/3 keggle.
I would like more info to build them.
Did you use standard compression Fitting / swagelok?
I was afraid to break the tube when tightening?
For the sight glass guard, this is purely esthetic right?
Thanks a lot!
JPGraphX
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I used NPT to compression fittings (stainless steel). Under the glass tube I placed an o-ring to act as a buffer. Between the compression nut and tube, I used more o-rings instead of the ferrules. Only go finger/hand tight on those so you don't break the glass.
The shield/guard is both to protect the glass tube from accidental strikes and a place to put the graduation marks. It makes things easier when you can look at the guard and know what your level is.
I have the keggle and sight glass (TC connected) for sale now since I've upgraded to a 20 gallon Spike+ BK. Hopefully someone within driving distance will want to purchase it before I get tired of having it hang around and it goes to the scrap yard. My old kegmenters are in the truck for that trip (using conical fermenters now).
Not sure what you mean by this? Between the guard and the glass tube?
One o-rings to replace the ferrules or more? 100% leak free? You use high temp o-ring?
I'm soldering all with 1/2NPT coupling, except for my two heating element which are going to be TC. I'm wondering how to assemble my sight glass with welded coupling.
Thanks a lot,
JP
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I placed o-rings at the end of the glass tube, so I wouldn't have glass on metal contact.
People use o-rings on pickup tubes instead of ferrules to make connecting, and changing, them easier/easy. The red silicone o-rings are rated for at least 450F (some to 500F or above) so no issues.
All the TC fittings in the keggle are TIG welded. From what I've been told by my welding buddy (who has done all of this) welding/soldering threaded fittings is a PITA. The threads suck the filler along so you end up having to do more to get a solid connection. Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to solder/weld threaded fittings. I'd swap over to TC fittings if you're already looking to weld/solder them. I'd actually find someone to TIG weld them (properly) unless there's no one near you that can do this. I would also passivate the heated areas/parts to ensure you don't have issues down the road. Easy to do with a hot citric acid solution if the welder doesn't have the ability to do it for you.
The last thing I did with the old keggle was to get the connection to a valve (for the pickup tube) changed over to a TC fittings (TIG welded). I also have a 1-1/2" TC port if the next owner wants to use an electric element to heat it. At present it can be used for either electric of gas heating methods. Simply put a cap on the ferrule that the element would use and you're set. I did a test fit, and the 5500W elements Spike uses fits for the keggle. As does the Slingblade element (from MoreBeer) sized for the 15 gallon kettles.
People use o-rings on pickup tubes instead of ferrules to make connecting, and changing, them easier/easy. The red silicone o-rings are rated for at least 450F (some to 500F or above) so no issues.
All the TC fittings in the keggle are TIG welded. From what I've been told by my welding buddy (who has done all of this) welding/soldering threaded fittings is a PITA. The threads suck the filler along so you end up having to do more to get a solid connection. Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to solder/weld threaded fittings. I'd swap over to TC fittings if you're already looking to weld/solder them. I'd actually find someone to TIG weld them (properly) unless there's no one near you that can do this. I would also passivate the heated areas/parts to ensure you don't have issues down the road. Easy to do with a hot citric acid solution if the welder doesn't have the ability to do it for you.
The last thing I did with the old keggle was to get the connection to a valve (for the pickup tube) changed over to a TC fittings (TIG welded). I also have a 1-1/2" TC port if the next owner wants to use an electric element to heat it. At present it can be used for either electric of gas heating methods. Simply put a cap on the ferrule that the element would use and you're set. I did a test fit, and the 5500W elements Spike uses fits for the keggle. As does the Slingblade element (from MoreBeer) sized for the 15 gallon kettles.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Valve on the outside of the keggle for wort to flow through (when needed). I got tired of cleaning NPT items, and/or the pain of doing a full system tear down to do a deep cleaning. TC connections make this both fast and easy to do. No more dealing with pipe tape and/or worrying about indexing items to work easily (valve handles for one thing). Plus pretty much zero chance of leaks happening. Unlike with NPT connections.
IIRC, the level was stable enough during use. If you don't do a really HARD boil at least.
IIRC, the level was stable enough during use. If you don't do a really HARD boil at least.
