Show Us Your Short-Cuts

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Another "speed up your brewing" step that I just recalled. Ditch your 3/8" hose and skinny racking cane and switch over to 1/2" hose and a copper or stainless racking cane. Transfers from HLT to mash tun to boiler to fermenter take less than half the time. The same goes for racking.
 
Great Idea, the wife has been asking me to figure a way to get the pool to warm up a bit :) Not sure how fun lugging hot Wort to the pool is going to be though. :mug:

I brew from in the pool, unfortunately I also happen to be slower on the gas control since I have to reach the gas from the pool. First two brews I used pool water from the hose adapter on my pool drainage pipe to run the immersion chiller. Now the water is 88 and it's just easier to use 79 degree tap water.
 
Definitely cleaning as you go is a must, in my opinion. Before I started doing that, I used to slack on the cleaning afterwards, often not doing it until the next day!

One of the biggest jumps in time for me just happened last night. After brewing yesterday, I finally had enough of filling my water buckets on my second floor and carrying them downstairs to use. While at Home Depot last night, I bought a shower head with a hose for my downstairs bathroom so I can fill my cooling buckets (I recirculate with a pump) and sanitizer bucket. Previously, I could only fill buckets upstairs. My house has a lot of stairs and it was back-breaking carrying 20+ gallons of water downstairs to brew with every time. Not to mention, I of course spilled a lot of the stairs.

To measure my strike, sparge, and top-off water quickly I measured and marked off gallons on a Poland Spring bottle. Saved me tons of time over using a quart measuring cup like I used to.

Another change happened a few batches back when I stopped siphoning from my boiling pot into the fermentor. I use buckets and realized that roughly pouring it straight into the bucket adequately aerates the wort and saves me like 5 minutes easily.

Another time saver for me, but mostly unique to my situation, is that I can dump my grains straight into the woods across the street from my house without cooling them, then I hose out my mash tun (summer) which cuts a ton of time off of when in the winter I have to clean it in my sink.

I am also a huge fan of hop bags. Besides saving me a ton of wort, they make cleanup much faster and have reduced my boil-overs to ZERO since I've been using them.

My friend cringes at some of the things I do because he brews in an environment more sanitized than a medical lab, but I have never had any cleanliness issues or infections.

Using only one burner and one pot for all heating, I have my brew day down to 4-4.5 hours from milling to sipping my first post-brew beer.
 
I carry my mash tun to the woods in my backyard and dump the entire spent grains all at once. Then clean the tun. This is done during the boil.
 
I use a 5 gallon Boyou Classic pot with 5500 watt element for heating strike and sparge water. Boil in 15 gallon pot heated with propane. I figure the electric saves me 30 to 45 minutes brew time.
 
No Chill works great. It cost me around $15 for the vessel (see the big No Chill thread) and works perfectly for any beers that don't need late hop additions.
 
[*]Recirculate your immersion chiller. When I'm chilling, once the wort hits 90F or so, I switch my chiller to recirculate 5 gallons of icewater out of a Homer bucket. For the price of a $30 pump, I get my wort down to 60F pre-pitching temperatures a lot faster than using simply tapwater.

Could you tell me what kind of pump? I am interested in doing the same. Maybe a pond/fountain pump? I'd buy a pump just for the chiller but I suppose I could use it the rest of the time on my fermentation water bath too. Thanks.
 
Going along with the idea of processing multiple brew batches in one day and overlapping them when possible, I setup a large plastic tub of cleaner (20 gallons of PBW, Straight-A, oxiclean, whatever) so I can submerge a whole batch of bottles or a bucket or entire tools like the autosiphon and not have to spend twice the time if I had to flip them over to do the other side. I also try to have a spare of each reasonably priced item and have an extra cleaned and sanitized incase I break/drop/dirty something and desire a replacement real quick. The tubs of cleaner/sanitizer also come in handy there because I can rinse off whatever I got dirty and just toss it in while I work on other things. The cost of cleaner/sanitizer is tolerable and worth it to me, it depends what you use and how good of a price you got. $8 for PBW would be pushing it but I just bought some in bulk for closer to $3 for 20 gallons. Star-San would be about $2.50 to mix up 20 gallons but since I can re-use it, its practically free. Even if it was $6 to cover both, and I use it for multiple brews that day, its worth it to me for the peace of mind that its sitting there when I need it (always forget something...)

It helped me out to switch from Iodophor to Star-San because among other reasons it won't stain my equipment (I can leave my racking canes, auto-siphon, airlocks etc submerged until I need them) and won't fade away while I'm working.

I can keep my gigantic tub of Star-San for a long time (months?) and it makes it easy for impromptu racking or simple jobs like making apfelwein, starters, etc since funnels and airlocks should stay pretty clean otherwise. I check the pH occasionally. If it decided to spring a leak, its in the garage so I don't care.

I use my auto-siphon to pump cleaner/sanitizer through its tube to fill it up, no air bubbles to worry about areas not getting cleaned/sanitized, and the whole thing fits in my tub submerged.

I have enough flexible tubes to have one for each auto-siphon and one for the bottle filler at the very least, that way if I am racking and bottling several batches in one day I am not wasting a lot of time moving the hose back and forth between devices. Even for just bottling it was helpful to have two auto-siphon because one could sit dirty for a while and I'd still have one ready to use for the next pail or carboy. I catch up on cleaning when I get a convenient chance (always the same day), it gives me more flexibility.

Recently since I assembled a portable utility sink for my garage, I realized I could use one or more siphons to help me drain my 20G tubs away when I'm done. That is considerably easier than bailing by the bucketful or trying to lift it, and I don't end up with misc small plastic brewing parts dumped into the driveway. Thats how my vehicle crushed the non-critical end of my only remaining bottle filler :) And yes I used it anyway afterwards, its just about 3" long now.

I second the idea to use 1/2" ID racking equipment, my LHBS introduced me to that years ago and I was thrilled.

I have a 4-way hose valve in my garage, I can run either the outside hose to it or a hose from inside the house during the winter and then I can control the water going to multiple places in my garage such as to the wort chiller, plastic tubs for cleaning, etc. The runs for my tubs are tied to support arms for a shelf so they are always aimed at a bucket, all I have to do is operate the valve. Another way would be to have one or more hooks on the ceiling to loop the hose through. I don't put hose water in my beer because I don't know what nasties live in it. And "lead". Didn't we all drink out of the hose as kids, and we grew up fine?
 
Oh yeah, if you have a tub of cleaner or sanitizer with more volume than a pail/cornie/carboy, you could rack it into the pail/cornie/carboy and dump it back in when done.
 
Sorry, one more for now...

Fermcap-S or another defoamer!!!!!! Takes a considerable amount of the trepidation away from the boil. Just watch for the first hop addition, the rest should be a breeze.
 
Same here. Gets pretty funky back there after a day or two, doesn't it?

Never really noticed. I have a large piece of property so I dump them a ways back. I always dump a small amount near the edge of the yard just for the animals. I thought the deer and other animals would like them. However, I never seems that the pile gets any smaller. They must not like them.
 
Another "speed up your brewing" step that I just recalled. Ditch your 3/8" hose and skinny racking cane and switch over to 1/2" hose and a copper or stainless racking cane. Transfers from HLT to mash tun to boiler to fermenter take less than half the time. The same goes for racking.

I'll second that one. Dumped the 3/8 hose years ago
 
Mobile mashing. My pickup truck is my brewstand. A couple times I have filled up my cooler with water a little hotter than usual, and then drove to LHBS to buy my grains. I stirred in right there in their parking lot.
 
Mobile mashing. My pickup truck is my brewstand. A couple times I have filled up my cooler with water a little hotter than usual, and then drove to LHBS to buy my grains. I stirred in right there in their parking lot.

mobile mashing, that's spectacular :rockin:

do you heat the sparge water off the block or the exhaust?
 
My biggest time saver? Not "sampling" previous batches while brewing. For some reason having a buzz seems to really stretch the brewing process out....:drunk:

Although, I do usually have a brew while doing my final clean up.
 
I don't do any immersion chilling or anything like that. I just stick my hot wort in my temperature-controlled freezer and set it to whatever temp I want to get the wort down to, and then pitch the yeast in the morning.
 
My one remaining chicken loves 135 degree grain, its almost as though I cooked it just for her. You should hear the thanks I get. Who knew chickens had personalities. Start to finish for me is also 4 to 5 hours depending on other chores to be done. Quickest was 4 on the dot and I don't mind spending an 8th of a day on something that tastes so good and perplexes the average beer drinker. SWMBO helped me to realize I need to clean as I go, left the mash on the counter all night and the next day till I got home. PHEW, I could understand her disappointment in me. I am also anal about having things laid out, in order so there is no confusion. Sorry, I also brew sober.
 
Just shaved some more time (10 to 15 minutes). I only have to remember....Freeze unopened bottles of water (after opening and pouring a little out), they are sterile, with my equipment, I always have to top off the carboy a touch after pitching. I am figuring about 4 frozen bottles of water is what I have to add, will save me considerable time.

I've been placing 3-4 gals of filtered tap water in the freezer ever since I started brewing in 1994. I used to do all small boils and topped the primary off with the water. Got it down into the 60s in seconds. Great time saver. ;)
 
I have a massive time saver, hopefully no one has posted it yet

1. Keep a super detailed brew log with accurate time stamps
2. Review your last few brews

This has helped me hugely identifying time when I stand around, I now know exactly how long my stove takes to heat 2.5G to 155, how long it takes to cool 5 gallons of 180F wort to 80, etc etc. My extract brews are down from over 3 hours to 1.5 including clean up - because now I know exactly when I will have 10 minutes to clean while I wait for something.
My brew logs even told me how my baby takes to go to sleep, they where that detailed. 10:57 - put 2.5G on the boil, baby crying
11:10 - water boiling, baby asleep
 
Could you tell me what kind of pump? I am interested in doing the same. Maybe a pond/fountain pump? I'd buy a pump just for the chiller but I suppose I could use it the rest of the time on my fermentation water bath too. Thanks.

Exactly. A pond pump works fine for recirculating chiller water. Sump pumps with hose fittings on them are pretty good, too.
 
Boooo! Hisssssss! Booooo! Hisssss!

Sober while brewing, that is not right.

I have no shortcuts, it takes me 4 to 5 hours no matter what.

For a while I was on a late shift and was able to brew before going to work. So most of my brewing has been sober recently, and it still takes me 6 hours.

The one shortcut that has helped a lot is to set everything up the night before and boil the water then. Fill up all vessels with hot water and have it all pre-heated when I get up.
 
I use rice hulls in all of my beers regardless of grain bill. It allows me to collect my first runnings and sparge much faster without channeling or stuck sparges.
 
1. Start mash water before cracking grains
2. Start boil while sparging
3. Minimize build and teardown (muuuuuch easier with my current setup)
4. Clean as you go
5. Heat your sparge water during the mash, and store it in an insulated container when it hits temp. Even if I have 40 minutes left on a mash, it is awesome to have the sparge water ready and willing

And lastly, brew by yourself :)
 
My favorite time saver is one that I added last brew day. I calibrated a piece of aluminum to show me the water level in my kettle. No more measuring water out by the gallon/half gallon. Put in the dipstick and fill it up to the right level.
 
I was lucky in that most of these tips were already posted on this site before I started brewing. I'm only about 13 months into this hobby, so none of the shortcuts had to be discovered, they were just part of the process. Thanks HBT!
 
Stuck Sparge? I have a small copper tube that fits my valve end (loosely) that I can force air to unstick the sparge and away I go again, works like a charm.[/COLOR]

These are the only two I can think of at this point. Care to share? And happy brewing.:mug:

How do you force the air in?
 
How do you force the air in?

Tube is less than a foot, doesn't hook up to anything....figure it out. In my original post I had myself explaining it in a way that I do not wish to be visualized in this forum. So I changed it to what it is now.;)


OK, I will say it this way. I turn valve off, put tube to valve end, turn it open as I use the air from my lungs.
 
for indoor extract/partial boil batches i usually heat half the water on the stovetop and the other half in the microwave. that way, after your steep/mash is done on the stove, you can dump in nearly boiling water from the microwave that you didn't have to use another burner to heat.
 
I extract brew and started doing my specialty grain in a small saucepan and getting my large brew pot up to a boil while the grain soaks.
I save about a half hour there.
 
Used a BIAB bag in my keggle MLT last brew. Cut way down on cleanup time for MLT and gave me the clearest wort I've ever seen.
 
Used a BIAB bag in my keggle MLT last brew. Cut way down on cleanup time for MLT and gave me the clearest wort I've ever seen.


I need to order one (this time I will). I am still going to MT since I do ten gallon batches mostly, but to pour the cool wort in to a sanitized pot, lined with a BIAB then go to fermenter with strained wort.... Clear Beer! Thanks for the reminder.
 
Check with your water company to see if they use chlorine or chloramines. If they do not, then there's no need to filter or otherwise de-chlorinate your water.
 
Frozen (previously boiled) water introduced to hot wort can really speed up the chill time. Chance of contamination, need to figure the amount of water introduced frozen, and be short that much at flame out.

Read somewhere on the net that you can put unopened frozen bottles of water in hot wort, just make sure that you sterilize them.
 
I don't have a 3tier system or pump for my AG setup.

My poor man's brew rig is keggle + burner on 8 cinder blocks ($2.00 each).

I heat up my strike/sparge water inside on my gas stove in a 4 gallon pot, put the mash tun on the counter.

I batch sparge so instead of draining the runnings from the mash into the keggle and then carrying that full heavy bastard outside and lifting it up onto the aforementioned poor man's brew rig, I drain the runnings into an ale pail, then carry the 2 - 3 gallons of wort outside and pour it into the keggle.

Then back inside with the now empty pail to get the rest.

Rinse and repeat till I'm happy with the amount I have collected and start the boil.

Maybe it's common sense here, but it took me two AG brew sessions to figure out to transfer the wort a little at a time in a lightweight bucket as opposed to carrying the ~90lb keggle & wort through the kitchen, down the deck stairs, and hoist it up on top of the brew rig.
 
Back
Top