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i found this panel as it was being tossed out, so I snatched it up for free. Them are some old style switches and lights (a bulb no less). I think it looks like something out of a Soviet Missile Silo, and I don't know what I am going to do with it, but perhaps I can use some of the switches for a future project. The switch label indicates on/off, with the off on the left, but the switch themselves have three positions. Two speed fans? On/Off and Auto? I wont know until I play with them.

IMG_7919 (533x800).jpg
 
chessking said:
i found this panel as it was being tossed out, so I snatched it up for free. Them are some old style switches and lights (a bulb no less). I think it looks like something out of a Soviet Missile Silo, and I don't know what I am going to do with it, but perhaps I can use some of the switches for a future project. The switch label indicates on/off, with the off on the left, but the switch themselves have three positions. Two speed fans? On/Off and Auto? I wont know until I play with them.
Click to expand...

That appears to be original old school American made allen bradley stuff... They where bought out by rockwell automation and I believe they are just used to sell rebranded chinese stuff like everyone else these days.. most large factories in the US used that brand. the switches are on -off-on 3 position switches like you guessed.. you can use them as regular on -off switches easily.
 
IMG_9428.jpg

IMG_8795.jpg
**I have all the wiring done now. This was an older pic.**

IMG_9063.jpg

IMG_9427.jpg

IMG_9174.jpg

Here is my "Over Engineered Brewing" Rig!

Still haven't brewed yet!!! LOL!! But i'm working on it! Just did my first dry run and found out I should have gone with a temp probe not a temp sensor and well. The well has to slow of a response time. BUT.. it's coming together!....slowly! :mug:
 
ryan810cows said:
View attachment 315417

View attachment 315423
**I have all the wiring done now. This was an older pic.**

View attachment 315421

View attachment 315416

View attachment 315422

Here is my "Over Engineered Brewing" Rig!

Still haven't brewed yet!!! LOL!! But i'm working on it! Just did my first dry run and found out I should have gone with a temp probe not a temp sensor and well. The well has to slow of a response time. BUT.. it's coming together!....slowly! :mug:
Click to expand...

Did you use any thermal paste on the temp sensor when you placed it in the well? That is key to getting good thermal transfer from the well to sensor.
 
crane said:
Did you use any thermal paste on the temp sensor when you placed it in the well? That is key to getting good thermal transfer from the well to sensor.
Click to expand...

I didn't. I did do research after my last dry run and found out that thermal grease was essential. That being said, I am still concerned after all my browsing the interwebs that i will still have a decent "Lag" do to the thickness of the thermal well. I still haven't pulled the trigger yet on the prob route but I'm close.

Thanks everyone for you feedback! :mug:
 
ryan810cows said:
I didn't. I did do research after my last dry run and found out that thermal grease was essential. That being said, I am still concerned after all my browsing the interwebs that i will still have a decent "Lag" do to the thickness of the thermal well. I still haven't pulled the trigger yet on the prob route but I'm close.

Thanks everyone for you feedback! :mug:
Click to expand...

the thermal grease makes a HUGE difference... I accidently pulled my probe out of grease at the tip of the very long thermowell it was installed in and my temps were way off as a result this was in my conical fermenter and my chiller had been circulating coolant for hrs.... By the time I realized it the temp readout was reading 61 degrees but the actual temp was in the 40s.... as soon as I pushed the probe back down into the grease the temp dropped back to normal in moments.
 
Posted this question on a couple of forums. Attached is an image of how I think I should wire the voltmeter that I purchased from Auber http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_50&products_id=489. The wiring diagram provided by Auber uses a hot and neutral, I would think that this would only provide 110 volt. I need to have the meter read to 240 volt. By wiring it as shown I pull a hot off of the 120 lead just after the power in relay and the other hot comes in from the 110 volt hot bus. I believe that this should provide the 240 volt range I need. Is there a better way to wire this voltmeter? Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks

100_1743.jpg
 
Nimbus3000 said:
Posted this question on a couple of forums. Attached is an image of how I think I should wire the voltmeter that I purchased from Auber http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_50&products_id=489. The wiring diagram provided by Auber uses a hot and neutral, I would think that this would only provide 110 volt. I need to have the meter read to 240 volt. By wiring it as shown I pull a hot off of the 120 lead just after the power in relay and the other hot comes in from the 110 volt hot bus. I believe that this should provide the 240 volt range I need. Is there a better way to wire this voltmeter? Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks
Click to expand...

Your assumption is correct,
It says right on it 80v-500v.... Since it uses the same input power for unit power as its detecting common sense would dictate that you would feed it the 240v you wish to measure.... There is no other explanation. you need to feed it both hot leads to get 240v and disregard the neutral in this case thats only used when testing/wiring 120v or less...
Aubrins also explains it pretty clearly on their website here,
" it will be self-powered when connecting to a circuit with testing range between 80 ~ 500 VAC. "

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_50&products_id=489
 
Nimbus3000 said:
Posted this question on a couple of forums. Attached is an image of how I think I should wire the voltmeter that I purchased from Auber http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_50&products_id=489. The wiring diagram provided by Auber uses a hot and neutral, I would think that this would only provide 110 volt. I need to have the meter read to 240 volt. By wiring it as shown I pull a hot off of the 120 lead just after the power in relay and the other hot comes in from the 110 volt hot bus. I believe that this should provide the 240 volt range I need. Is there a better way to wire this voltmeter? Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks
Click to expand...

For a 240 Volt meter, you need to put both "Hots" on. Each leg is 120V. The volt meter will read the total of both legs (240V). I have mine set up this way as well. Just make sure you have the 240V version and not a 110V. From the picture, it looks like it will handle up to 500V so you should be good.
 
ryan810cows said:
For a 240 Volt meter, you need to put both "Hots" on. Each leg is 120V. The volt meter will read the total of both legs (240V). I have mine set up this way as well. Just make sure you have the 240V version and not a 110V. From the picture, it looks like it will handle up to 500V so you should be good.
Click to expand...

The 110v version is the same version as 240v.... Which is why it says 80v-500v input... :mug:
the "110" in the model number threw me off when i first looked at it.
 
homebrewdude76 said:
Is there a reason or need to provide an on/off switch for the element. To overide the controller?
Click to expand...

A switch to open a mechanical contactor provides safety, as off will mean off. SSRs leak current and can fail closed (on).
 
This should help some folks visualize the relationship between 120V and 240V from the transformer on the pole to your house.

pwr xfmr.JPG
 
jeffmeh said:
A switch to open a mechanical contactor provides safety, as off will mean off. SSRs leak current and can fail closed (on).
Click to expand...

That explains why some panels have and not others. So my switch needs to kill the contactor for the element, not the PID.
 
homebrewdude76 said:
That explains why some panels have and not others. So my switch needs to kill the contactor for the element, not the PID.
Click to expand...

Correct. This why you have direct control over the element itself and you wont have to kill power to the PID so it can still be trying to control when your ready to let it again.

The switch will just break the circuit to the 120V control (On/Off) contactor.
 
Looks pretty close to me, and I'm guessing LarMoeCur followed Kal's wiring diagrams as well. I take it that's the 50A version. I like the Texas paint scheme, though Kal probably leans more toward a maple leaf motif.

@Trillium, mine doesn't look like a Kal clone, but it is...
 
Trillium said:
Why do you call it a Kal clone if it looks nothing like his panel?
Click to expand...

Agree that using his wiring and basic components makes it a Kal clone. Mine is similar but certainly not identical, and I call it a call clone, because functionally it works just like a Kal panel.

DSC_0037.jpg
 
Trillium said:
Why do you call it a Kal clone if it looks nothing like his panel?
Click to expand...

If you open it up and look inside. The guts are all Kal's design, I just left off the AMP and Volt meters and changed the paint job. Yes, I did build it but it wouldn't be right if I didn't give the designer his due.

panel2.jpg
 
Only thing missing from a "CLONE" is the Amp and Volt meters. Oh, and that beautiful Texas flag...
I think you may be of the same paradigm as those who say it's impossible to make a "Clone beer". Chill out man.
 
Huaco said:
Do you have a strain relief on that power supply or is it hard wired and chaffing on a raw metal edge of the enclosure?
Click to expand...
It's hard wired with really stiff and thick wire, #6 I believe. The hole in the enclosure has been smoothed out and just this morning I inspected the wiring, no sign of chaffing. The control panel will be mounted on the wall so there won't be any strain on the wiring. But thanks for the concern, much appreciated!
 
RedBeard23 said:
It's hard wired with really stiff and thick wire, #6 I believe. The hole in the enclosure has been smoothed out and just this morning I inspected the wiring, no sign of chaffing. The control panel will be mounted on the wall so there won't be any strain on the wiring. But thanks for the concern, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Even thick romex wire should be installed with a strain relief/clamp of some sort. It would cost you $2 or so and is highly recommended regardless of how you mount the panel.

Kal
 
kal said:
Even thick romex wire should be installed with a strain relief/clamp of some sort. It would cost you $2 or so and is highly recommended regardless of how you mount the panel.

Kal
Click to expand...

+1 The weight of the wire should be supported by the strain relief clamp, not the electrical connections inside the box.
 

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