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Looks good B^2. That box is packed! 2?:

1. Are those contactors dual throw? If so, are they DIN rail mounted? If so, where did you get them? They look DPST, just checking.

2. Two CFC's. One using flush water and the other ice water for single pass, dual stage chilling?
 
Looks good B^2. That box is packed! 2?:

1. Are those contactors dual throw? If so, are they DIN rail mounted? If so, where did you get them? They look DPST, just checking.

yes they are dual throw,I got DIN rail adaptors and mounted them.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMP8UH6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2. Two CFC's. One using flush water and the other ice water for single pass, dual stage chilling?

Correct!
In the summer here in SD, the best I can do with tap water is 80-85, so first pass through the CFC gets me to 80, the second pass through the CFC#2 is with ice water to get me to 65-68. Im working on automating it too on this system.
 
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I'll grab some internal pics. It's pretty much as simple as you can get, a PID, an SSR and an outlet for the 240v, and the connector for the RTD.

If anything it's perhaps too small. It's so light weight that the mains cables can easily dictate it's place where a heavier box would stay put.

Nevertheless it works just fine.
 
My control panel is based on Kal's design, but I did not include all of the bells and whistles. I also used an SSVR with a potentiometer to control the boil kettle element instead of a PID/SSR. I like the quick knob-turn boil control that this provides.

The enclosure is a Carlon junction box (12" x 12" x 6") from Home Depot. I mounted the panel using a hinged arm TV wall mount that I attached to my brew structure, which is a stainless restaurant work table with casters.

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Just finished my panel and electric check-out complete. Won't be much longer for my first batch. Waiting on plugs for level switches, scaling level transmitter, and install alarm on a short post.

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You guys with the key switches crack me the $^#* up... Do you take the key and hide it when you're not "at the helm" of your brewery, like when you run to the can?
 
Added the lightning machine. I also finished my third electric batch. Man, I love electric brewing!

This is so far the best way to keep all the dorks and over engineered systems here in a humorous reality check, considering what's really going on...heating, then boiling water...

You got me thinking I need to incorporate an anti dork, electric arc "Jacob's ladder".
 
You guys with the key switches crack me the $^#* up... Do you take the key and hide it when you're not "at the helm" of your brewery, like when you run to the can?

I have a 2-year-old that likes to play in the garage... and my "panel" is down low (built into my bench), so she CAN reach it. ;)
 
You guys with the key switches crack me the $^#* up... Do you take the key and hide it when you're not "at the helm" of your brewery, like when you run to the can?
I think I was the guy who started the fad to install keyed power switches in brewery control panels... ;)

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The keyed switch was about $2 more than a non-keyed one (back when I designed my panel in 2008) and I figured it's a good piece of mind to keep the kids away if needed. My key now stays in the switch since the panel's up high and the kids are older, but for the price I thought it was a pretty nifty feature to have.

YMMV.

Kal
 
You guys with the key switches crack me the $^#* up... Do you take the key and hide it when you're not "at the helm" of your brewery, like when you run to the can?

Every Time I have a significant amount of new (drunk) people in the bar/brewery people mess with the panels. When people (especially bitches :rockin:) come to brew day all they want to do is push buttons and flip switches (supervised) . Hell my fermentation control is off in the corner has (1) keyed power switch and has been turned off a time or two by wandering hands. I should switch it to keyed off!!!!

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alright alright.... I'll add a key, Jeeze talk about peer pressure... Guess I neglected to consider that some of you posters brew in public spaces or businesses. I noticed however no one has refuted my dork yet :)
 
Heating elements can get expensive if curious people can turn on the panel and dry-fire the elements... just sayn'
Also... I find that leaving the pump switch to the "on" position, keeps the panel from being turned on at all. (those with the safe-start relay option) Curiosity wanes quickly when the panel won't even fire up even if the main power switch is turned on.
 
If you've got a big 30a or 50a plug for your panel then pulling it out of the wall may not be so simple. And depending on your brew setup the outlet may not even be easily accessible.
 
mine will plug into a twist and lock drop cord that is normally used to supply welding equipment. My stand will not be hardwired and will only be plugged in while brewing I guess that's why I thought the key was silly. I do have keyed switches on other devices, but that's to prevent unauthorized use.... Same reason here it seems.
 
I could unplug from the bottom of the panels... but the other end is not accessible. Both panels are hard mounted in place so unplugging them seems silly.

In retrospect spending the money on disconnects seems even sillier... should have hardwired everything.
 
This is so far the best way to keep all the dorks and over engineered systems here in a humorous reality check, considering what's really going on...heating, then boiling water...

You got me thinking I need to incorporate an anti dork, electric arc "Jacob's ladder".

I'm confused. Am I the dork here? Or are you referring to all those other wankers?
 
Finally finished the trim on the back of the stand. Starting on the upper left, RTD connectors, two expansion boxes for adding a third element (if I end up adding two more 30 amp panels into the cabinet) into each kettle, 120v wiring distribution box. Second row left to right water pump, herms pump, unswitched, auxiliary and wort pump. Third row left to right HLT element 1, HLT element 2, boil kettle element 2, boil kettle element 1. Bottom is the Reliance Controls PK50 power input. There is room in the box two install two more 30 amp power inputs in the future.

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You guys with the key switches crack me the $^#* up... Do you take the key and hide it when you're not "at the helm" of your brewery, like when you run to the can?


My panel is under construction.


So I have 2 keys. One for my fermentation chamber controller that I plan to remove the key when I am away to keep anyone from switching off without knowing the consequences. The other allows my controllers to fire the elements. Again to keep hands off. Additionally, my system will be automated, so I have to worry about it becoming self aware and attempting to take over the world.......I plan to have a hook up high where only I can reach it. Panel is a little low.

Switches were pretty cheap.
 
I'm confused. Am I the dork here? Or are you referring to all those other wankers?

We're all the dorks. Anyone who has gotten this far in a thread on the subject of electric process control?.... But yeah, those other wankers are really bad. :)
 
Almost There!
Hi Mike,
I am in the process of designing and laying out a control panel. I very much admiring your box. Can you tell me more about it and source? I really like the sloped dashboard so it can sit on a surface and still be readable. How has it worked out o/ the past couple of years??
 
Additionally, my system will be automated, so I have to worry about it becoming self aware and attempting to take over the world.......I plan to have a hook up high where only I can reach it.

^^^ This guy gets it... More of this! :tank:
 
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