|Shank length? Spacer for tap?

[Everhard]

Couple questions for those that have been there before... I'm about to convert a regular fridge into a kegerator. Taps thru the fridge door. So 2 questions:

1: Shank length - I want to keep it as short as possible so they don't protrude too far into the fridge space. Quick measurement shows I've got approx 2 inches to get thru the door itself. So I'm thinking something like this: Chrome Plated 3 1/2
Or should I look at the next size up? 4.5"?

2: Given these are on a fridge door do I want to space the tap out a bit? I can buy one inch spacers. Or do you find your tap handles are far enough from the fridge door when in the closed position that it doesn't matter? Obviously this will effect question one above... lol.

Which brings me to question 3 even though I said only 2 questions....

3: Drip tray!!! I'm going to have 5 taps, will a 14" drip tray be enough or do I need something longer?

Thanks!
E.

 

[IslandLizard]

So I'm thinking something like this: Chrome Plated 3 1/2

First off, only use stainless steel faucets and shanks, stay away from chrome plated.
Chrome will come off over time, leaving you with exposed brass. You don't want to drink those metals.

Forward closing faucets are best, less gunk build up inside, and places for bugs to hide.

I use an upright freezer, faucets through the door, so similar to your idea. The faucets are mounted about 5 feet up.

If you leave (some of) the door shelves, you may need a backing strip (thin plywood or hard plastic) on the inside of the door, to be able to tighten the shanks enough, or they'll keep turning. If there's soft insulation behind the shelf panel, you may need to remove it where the faucets come through to get a solid enough surface for a stable mount.

Whatever the thickness of the door, with needed reinforcements, etc. will direct your shank length. I'd stick to 4-1/2" shanks at minimum, anyway. You may want to mount the faucets above the top level of the kegs so the backs of the shanks and attached tubing and connectors aren't going to interfere with them.

Use EVA Barrier tubing and associated adapters!
It's stiff, so you'll need to allow ample space for it to maneuver itself when opening and closing the door.

Oh, don't forget, you probably need to raise the floor inside to get even with the hump.

 

[Everhard]

Thanks IslandLizard!

Yep I got great taps - relocating then from the True keg fridge I was using. (Forward closing, I went thru having the cheap taps already lol)
So ya, I've most of the hardware I need that I'm relocating from the True fridge.
Good point on the shanks, I'll look at the stainless options.

E.

 

[NickTheGreat]

I also have my taps coming through the door, though it's a side by side.

I went with 5-1/8" shanks, my records say. That got me through the door, and with a 3/4" thick (1x4) piece of wood as a backer. And there's plenty of shank left inside the door. So I would think you could go down to 4.5" and still have room. I will have to look tonight for sure.

By the way, my drip tray is 16" for 4 taps. Mainly because that was the size that fit my space the best! Someday I'll make it look prettier . . .