philosofool
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I have heard that some brewers use a secondary when dry hopping. What advantage would this bring? I don't harvest yeast from fermenters, so that's not a thing for me.
[...]i have always found that transferring to secondary always helps to settle yeast to the bottom more quickly as well. [...]
How could you tell?
There's really no way to rationalize that, fwiw...
Seems like the are a lot of ways to observe it though.
As my pro brewer friend always says, never leave your beer on spent yeast for longer than it needs to be. There is always a chance of generating off flavors from dead yeast if you let a beer sit in primary to long.
i have always found that transferring to secondary always helps to settle yeast to the bottom more quickly as well. When dry hopping, the beer needs to sit for a while, so it is a better idea to transfer it. And for all you novices who think the beer needs the yeast to absorb flavors, there is plenty of suspended yeast in the beer right up until you drink it.
If you plan on dry hopping, just spend the 11 bucks on a bucket and lid that you can use for that sole purpose (instead of a carboy with a narrow neck)
Don't confuse the advice given by a pro brewer to advice given by homebrewers. Their equipment and their needs are different. Because of the quantities they deal with, yeast autolysis is a concern. Not so much for small batches.
If you plan to move your beer to secondary for dry hopping (not recommended) you need to use a carboy that is small enough that your beer fills it to the neck to avoid a large headspace or surface as that large surface in contact with the air can lead to infections.
Been brewing for 21 years and have always used a secondary, sometimes even have racked a second time. granted i almost always re-use yeast, but i have never gotten an infection in a fermenter. not once not ever. talking about hundreds of batches. i dont know where you are getting this myth but have you ever read the papazian books?
remember, there is suspended co2 in beer. co2 is heavier than air, and it will come out of suspension and sit on top of the beer anyway. beer once fermented is naturally immune to infection for the most part as well. there are wild yeast strains and bacteria that you can introduce through unsanitary practices, but letting beer sit in a container with head space is not something to be concerned with.
I would think that if you bottle directly from the primary (transferring to a bottling bucket) you will get more sludge and yeast into your soon to be finished product resulting in more sediment in your bottles. something that i have noticed a long time ago when i switched from bottling right off of the primary.
as far as observation is concerned, i use glass carboys so you can see if there is any activity very easily. yes if you transfer when it appears fermentation is complete, you will notice the remaining yeast settling out over the next few days. i often even find myself bottling after 10 days and drinking the beer after 15 days or so.
If you have never had an infection without minimizing the headspace/surface of your secondary you have been extremely meticulous in your cleaning/sanitizing regimine or very lucky. I get my ideas from other home brewers and from this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=71400
remember, there is suspended co2 in beer. co2 is heavier than air, and it will come out of suspension and sit on top of the beer anyway.
I would think that if you bottle directly from the primary (transferring to a bottling bucket) you will get more sludge and yeast into your soon to be finished product resulting in more sediment in your bottles. something that i have noticed a long time ago when i switched from bottling right off of the primary.
as far as observation is concerned, i use glass carboys so you can see if there is any activity very easily. yes if you transfer when it appears fermentation is complete, you will notice the remaining yeast settling out over the next few days. i often even find myself bottling after 10 days and drinking the beer after 15 days or so.
As my pro brewer friend always says, never leave your beer on spent yeast for longer than it needs to be. There is always a chance of generating off flavors from dead yeast if you let a beer sit in primary to long.
If you truly believe that the gasses mix and that the heavier CO2 doesn't settle to the bottom and push the oxygen out, put your fermenter in a chest freezer and then on about the third day, open the lid, stick your head in, and take a deep breath. Make sure you have someone there to rescue you when you discover that there is little oxygen in that chest freezer.This is not how gases behave. They will not settle out like liquids do. All of the gases in the headspace will be constantly mixing and diffusing creating a homogenous mixture. Even if this were true (which it's not), the CO2 would not shield it from dust and bacteria in the headspace air falling into the beer.
But I think the main concern is oxidation from too much headspace in the secondary. Because the gases will mix evenly, you need to minimize the headspace in order to minimize the amount of oxygen that comes in contact with the beer. The best way to do that in my opinion is to not use a secondary at all because the CO2 created during fermentation purges all of the air out of the primary. Then if you quickly and carefully open it up and add hops to the primary you will hopefully not lose too much CO2 or introduce too much air. Other ways would be to fill the secondary almost completely or purge the headspace with CO2 or some other inert gas.
Why would you get more sludge and yeast in the finished product? If you are letting the beer sit for the same amount of time both ways, then you should get the same amount of sediment settling out of the beer no matter what container it happens to be in. There's nothing magical about a secondary that causes sediment to fall to the bottom faster. So if you have good racking skills there should be no difference in the amount of sludge and yeast in the finished product. I might even expect transferring to be counterproductive because you're probably stirring some of the trub up and mixing it into the secondary when you transfer.
This is good advice for commercial breweries with very large cylindroconical fermenters that exert a large amount of pressure on the yeast in the bottom. But as RM-MN said, it doesn't really apply to the small scale of homebrewing.
If you truly believe that the gasses mix and that the heavier CO2 doesn't settle to the bottom and push the oxygen out, put your fermenter in a chest freezer and then on about the third day, open the lid, stick your head in, and take a deep breath. Make sure you have someone there to rescue you when you discover that there is little oxygen in that chest freezer.
If you truly believe that the gasses mix and that the heavier CO2 doesn't settle to the bottom and push the oxygen out, put your fermenter in a chest freezer and then on about the third day, open the lid, stick your head in, and take a deep breath. Make sure you have someone there to rescue you when you discover that there is little oxygen in that chest freezer.
But I think the main concern is oxidation from too much headspace in the secondary. Because the gases will mix evenly, you need to minimize the headspace in order to minimize the amount of oxygen that comes in contact with the beer. The best way to do that in my opinion is to not use a secondary at all because the CO2 created during fermentation purges all of the air out of the primary. Then if you quickly and carefully open it up and add hops to the primary you will hopefully not lose too much CO2 or introduce too much air. Other ways would be to fill the secondary almost completely or purge the headspace with CO2 or some other inert gas.
I would love to see someone test this carefully, because I'm not sure there's a real oxidation risk from racking to secondary. I was talking with a pro who is also an engineer and a scientifically minded guy. He expressed some skepticism that oxidation is a serious problem for unfiltered beer with live yeast in it. He's the sort of guy who would say "Well, you need to test it," but he also thinks that live yeast is a great antioxidant, so that fresh beer, especially in the state when you're racking (still lots of suspended yeast) is probably well protected against oxidation, as long as you're racking carefully and not splashing the hell out of it. Apparently some pros actually add live yeast to filted beer at packaging because they believe that it helps with oxidation on the shelf.
So, yeah, it would be nice to test this.
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