Scared about oxidation
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Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I ferment in sanke kegs... Zero chance of air/oxygen, or any light, getting through the fermenter walls.
As long as you're using proper carboys (Better Bottle, or glass) you shouldn't have oxidation issues... Still, stainless steel beats plastic for oxidation protection every time. Stainless also beats glass for light blocking. I've picked up 1/4bbl (7.75 gallon) kegs for as little as $42 each... Not bad when you consider how much more head space you get in them. I can easily ferment 6-6.5 gallons without worry. Above that, and I install a blow-off tube and/or use fermcap to keep things under control.
As long as you're using proper carboys (Better Bottle, or glass) you shouldn't have oxidation issues... Still, stainless steel beats plastic for oxidation protection every time. Stainless also beats glass for light blocking. I've picked up 1/4bbl (7.75 gallon) kegs for as little as $42 each... Not bad when you consider how much more head space you get in them. I can easily ferment 6-6.5 gallons without worry. Above that, and I install a blow-off tube and/or use fermcap to keep things under control.
BluBruShack
Well-Known Member
Hey Tuna
I have heard of people keeping brew in carboys over a year with no ill results. If you naturally carbonate the brew you may need to re-pitch yeast.
What I do to avoid oxidization starts on day one. After boiling the wort it is important to get the temperature of it below 80 degrees as quickly as possible(I aim for 70). Then when transferring from primary to secondary use a racking cane to transfer the brew with the least amount of splashing and introduction of O2. Then the same thing back to bottling bucket.
Im sure there is more that others do. Hope this helps.
BBS
I have heard of people keeping brew in carboys over a year with no ill results. If you naturally carbonate the brew you may need to re-pitch yeast.
What I do to avoid oxidization starts on day one. After boiling the wort it is important to get the temperature of it below 80 degrees as quickly as possible(I aim for 70). Then when transferring from primary to secondary use a racking cane to transfer the brew with the least amount of splashing and introduction of O2. Then the same thing back to bottling bucket.
Im sure there is more that others do. Hope this helps.
BBS
dzlater
Well-Known Member
what are you scared of?
keep it in the carboy till it's done fermenting
when moving do it gently, try not to splash
you'll be fine
TopherM
Well-Known Member
In order to avoid oxidation, I don't oxidate my fermented wort. You almost have to TRY to oxidate your beer in order to actually adversely oxidate your beer. A slow stir won't do it, and light twirl won't do it. When I was a newbie, I even straight DUMPED my primary into my bottling bucket THROUGH a strainer at about 4 feet....I saw some obvious and plentiful oxidation (i.e., bubbles/foam), but lo and behold, no off tastes in the final product once it was done.
Seriously, as long as you don't attach a wisk to a power drill and go to town on your fermented wort or drop in a box of Alka Seltzer at the same time as an industrial strength vibrator or something, you ARE NOT going to noticibly oxidize your beer with just minimal caution and some common sense.
Don't worry about a thing....every little thing is going to be alright!
Be more like Bob Marley and the Red Stripe guy and less like Sheldon Cooper and Monk....the enjoyment of your hobby depends on it!
Seriously, as long as you don't attach a wisk to a power drill and go to town on your fermented wort or drop in a box of Alka Seltzer at the same time as an industrial strength vibrator or something, you ARE NOT going to noticibly oxidize your beer with just minimal caution and some common sense.
Don't worry about a thing....every little thing is going to be alright!
Be more like Bob Marley and the Red Stripe guy and less like Sheldon Cooper and Monk....the enjoyment of your hobby depends on it!
william_shakes_beer
Well-Known Member
Personally, I think oxydation is more of a commercial brewery problem where you have beer flowing through miles of pipe with oxygen coming out of solution and collecting at high points. Never had a real problem with oxydation, except for 1 bottle I filled half way (last of bucket) and conditioned. It tasted so horrible I could barely choke it down.
As stated I think you would have to really slosh things up a lot to have a problem. I have transferred 3 of my four finished brews to secondary and then transferred to my bottling bucket. I cannot tell any difference from the one that I didn't move to secondary.
I put the siphon hose right on the bottom of the vessel being transferred to, so not much sloshing.
I put the siphon hose right on the bottom of the vessel being transferred to, so not much sloshing.
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