Riptide vs. Chugger pump

[Aaron Beers]

I've only used Chugger pumps, up until now. After having one of the pumps in my setup fail last brew day I figured I'd order a Riptide to replace it, and see whether the marketing fan fare was justified. The only drawback to the Riptide vs. a Chugger is the extra $60 you'll spend, but there are notable improvements that may make that acceptable to you, and some of those improvements eliminate the need for other pieces of equipment and hence improve the value.

First, the two major reasons I bought one:

- I've managed to shoot water into the body of my Chugger pumps on multiple occasions. The Riptide has a fully enclosed body

- It's not fun to constantly need to pickup a screw driver during brew day, and difficult dis/assembly of anything makes me less likely to want to thoroughly clean it. The head and body are attached via TC clamp on the Riptide, so taking it apart and putting back together again is super easy

Both of those aspects were just as advertised when I inspected the pump today. Beyond that, there are a few more really nice features.

The out flow has a valve built in, so you don't need to run the pump out line into a separate valve. I already had a valve in my system at the pump outlet, so I didn't actually save any money on equipment here, but you might save if you're putting together a new system or have some other use for an existing pump out valve you've purchased. In any case, since the valve is built into the pump head, I don't have a separate valve that I have to clean.

The pump head can be adjusted to any rotation. My Chugger pumps have a base attached, and the in/out of the pump head run parallel to this base. For the orientation of my brewing equipment, it is more convenient for the in/out to be perpindicular to the ground. Hence I've been rotating the Chugger pumps 90* and in turn needing to finagle some things to get the base attached/stable to a surface perpindicular to the ground. With the Riptide pump, I can rotate the pump head 90* to put the in/out perpindicular to the base, with the base parallel to the ground. This is a nice bit of flexibility, not a deal breaker for Chugger pumps by any means, but really nice to be able to rotate the head to whatever angle you need.

The Riptide pump also happens to have an on/off switch on the pump itself. This isn't really useful for me, as I have a central bank of power switches to turn on/off every piece of equipment via their own dedicated switches, and I'll continue to use that so I don't need to stoop over/under to turn on the switch to the pump. But for other people who might just have a wall outlet or generic power strip, the on/off on the pump is convenient.

I'm not trying to shill for any product here, but if/when any of the other Chugger pumps need replacing, I'll definitely be replacing them with Riptide pumps.

 

[burdbrew]

Great summary, I completely agree. I have used March pumps for years, and today when I tested the riptide, I couldn’t believe how quiet it was. I put a two way valve on the output; I use RIMS and batch sparge, flipping the valve to start collecting at the end of the mash. This unit is up for the task.

I like the component feel, that I can break it down. March pumps stay pretty clean if you recirculate after use. So is the riptide necessary? No. Cool? Very much so.

 

[jekeane]

They now make riptide replacement heads for march and chugger pumps. I run 1 pump with exclusively water and 1 with wort recirculation. I have considered swapping out the wort head and then selling my inline with a valve to recoup a bit of the cost. The easy cleaning feature would be nice.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]
The pump head can be adjusted to any rotation. My Chugger pumps have a base attached, and the in/out of the pump head run parallel to this base. For the orientation of my brewing equipment, it is more convenient for the in/out to be perpindicular to the ground. Hence I've been rotating the Chugger pumps 90* and in turn needing to finagle some things to get the base attached/stable to a surface perpindicular to the ground. With the Riptide pump, I can rotate the pump head 90* to put the in/out perpindicular to the base, with the base parallel to the ground. This is a nice bit of flexibility, not a deal breaker for Chugger pumps by any means, but really nice to be able to rotate the head to whatever angle you need.[...]

fyi, Chugger and March pump heads can be rotated in 90° increments relative to the body.
Pull the pump head screws, rotate the head, put screws back in. Done.

Anyway, aside from the infinitely adjustable valve and the relief valve location, I've been impressed with Blichmann's pump.
Not enough to actually replace my twin 815PLs, but if I did I would likely go with the Riptides...

Cheers!

 

[TrickyDick]

Question regarding the pump head assembly. I have two custom chugger pump heads with TC fittings on inlet and outlet (no threads to clean). Still need to occasionally disassemble to clean the wort pump out though. I love the QUIET running riptide after hearing one recently.

Does anyone know, can you swap a chugger head onto a riptide motor? This would obviously not use the TC head detach feature.

I’m probably going to end up selling old pumps and buying a set of these riptide pumps and will have to consider getting TC fittings welded on. HATE cleaning Teflon thread tape and cleaning wort threaded fittings..

Thanks
TD

 

[augiedoggy]

Question regarding the pump head assembly. I have two custom chugger pump heads with TC fittings on inlet and outlet (no threads to clean). Still need to occasionally disassemble to clean the wort pump out though. I love the QUIET running riptide after hearing one recently.

Does anyone know, can you swap a chugger head onto a riptide motor? This would obviously not use the TC head detach feature.

I’m probably going to end up selling old pumps and buying a set of these riptide pumps and will have to consider getting TC fittings welded on. HATE cleaning Teflon thread tape and cleaning wort threaded fittings..

Thanks
TD

realistically theres no reason you need to disassemble the tc fittings from the riptide head, they clean up fine with pbw and the teflon tap seals keeping any buildup out of the threads anyway..
But if your OCD about such things you can buy special TC fittings that can be soldered on and seal the threaded area from the beer contact making them "sanitary" (Well not really since the magnet /propeller assembly is no sanitary on any of these anyway)

I do find it a bit silly the riptide doesn't come with TC fitting already attached with them being purchased for more higher end setups with TC fittings than not..

 

[day_trippr]

An optional TC head is something worth approaching John about...

Cheers!

 

[augiedoggy]

An optional TC head is something worth approaching John about...

Cheers!

john sells these tc adapters as I have them soldered onto the threads of my riptide and td5 pumps at the brewpub. they are reasonably priced as well.

 

[Bobby_M]

I offer Riptide (and all other) pumps with sanitary welded TC on the input/output.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blichmannriptide120.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/laborpumptc.htm

 

[Dland]

I still have my old March and Chugger pumps(they are practically identical, including some interchange parts), and they still work fine.

But when the oldest one started making more noise after seizing indecent, I got a Riptide.

Might sound a bit un thrifty, just for sound level, but always like to have a spare for any "necessary infrastructure" in brewing and other matters.

Anyway, the on/off switch on the riptide is quite helpful for my set up, and also appreciate the low noise, long cord and extra power. The built in valve is also nice, once one gets used to its settings(adding marking on the knob helps). It turns a CIP ball nicely by itself, where before I had to hook my two old pumps in series for this.

 

[TrickyDick]

I offer Riptide (and all other) pumps with sanitary welded TC on the input/output.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blichmannriptide120.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/laborpumptc.htm

I’ll be looking to buy two soon! Thanks for the info!

 

[TrickyDick]

Looks like sooner was today.

 

[Bobby_M]

Welded yesterday, shipping today. Pretty good timing, they were my last two pumps on hand until next Monday.

 

[TrickyDick]

Awesome news!!! I was just thinking what the lead time would be so as to timing to sell my chugger pumps, ya know, because Black Friday sales be here soon!

TD

 

[NewJersey]

I offer Riptide (and all other) pumps with sanitary welded TC on the input/output.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blichmannriptide120.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/laborpumptc.htm

I am so godamn mad I'm just seeing this now.
I just received two riptides from you TODAY.
Lol, oh well

 

[day_trippr]

34 minutes away? Bobby will work with you on this for sure. Drop him a PM...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

Yeah, this something I can do in about 40 minutes. Come by the shop.

 

[NewJersey]

Where are you?

 

[Surly]

Currently using one March 809 HS. This pump is wonderful but at 10 years old....

Would like to add a backup pump as I brew 10 plus gallons and a failed aging pump is not fun.

I am also interested in moving to a CIP system for my SS Brewtech 14 gallon conical.

What might be a good solution? Should I stay with March or, has the world changed Dramatically in ten years?

 

[Bobby_M]

Whitehouse Station, N J

Where are you?

 

[Bobby_M]

The Riptide would feel like an upgrade but keep in mind that the Spike CIP ball is way better than any other brand when used on low pressure pumps.

Bobby

Currently using one March 809 HS. This pump is wonderful but at 10 years old....

Would like to add a backup pump as I brew 10 plus gallons and a failed aging pump is not fun.

I am also interested in moving to a CIP system for my SS Brewtech 14 gallon conical.

What might be a good solution? Should I stay with March or, has the world changed Dramatically in ten years?

 

[Surly]

Bobby, are you suggesting going with maybe a cheaper pump? I am planning on using Brewtech for CIP.

What might you have as a solution? I do want a SS head for connections.

 

[Bobby_M]

You will not be happy with the SS brewtech CIP ball on any homebrew style pump. I'm saying the Spike CIP ball is the only one that will provide any significant velocity. I've tested both. It will work on your March pump but even better on the Riptide. If you want to use the SS CIP, you'll need something like the very pricey Chugger Max.

 

[Surly]

You will not be happy with the SS brewtech CIP ball on any homebrew style pump. I'm saying the Spike CIP ball is the only one that will provide any significant velocity. I've tested both. It will work on your March pump but even better on the Riptide. If you want to use the SS CIP, you'll need something like the very pricey Chugger Max.

Bobby, as I have the SS Brewtech conical fermenter could I use the CIP ball from Spike? Or is my only option the Brewtech ball?

thanks

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby, as I have the SS Brewtech conical fermenter could I use the CIP ball from Spike? Or is my only option the Brewtech ball?

thanks

The Spike is a 1.5" TC so you would just have to adapt 1.5" TC to whatever the top of your brewtech is. If you have the Unitank it would be a 3" x 1.5" adapter. If it's the regular chronical it would already have a 1.5" TC.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have a 17gpm chugger max clone (which is a clone of the march pump) and I have tried it with regular sized spray balls with very limited success. Sure the ball has enough push from the pump to cause it to spin and rinse but there is very little actual spray force this way. Now the work around to this would be to use a smaller spray ball with finer openings right? Well heres the problem I found with that... the opening plug up very quickly with trub or chunks of krausen causing the ball to work poorly... At that point you have to basically preclean the kettle or fermenter by hand beforehand before using the small sprayball...

This may or may not be a viable solution for some homebrewers but my solution at my brewpub was to buy the proper sized pump for standard CIP balls. In fact I later bought a second one so I could have one on each floor.
I went with these 3/4hp sanitary pumps. The replacement seals are cheap and even the replacement motors are easy to find. I cant stress enough the amount change of effectiveness in cip between these two setups. also beware you need larger hoses with these as they are too powerful for silicone.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-750W-...961983?hash=item4206904dff:g:YI4AAOSwmnZdiyUZ

I bought the versions on wheels myself. It also makes one hell of a whirlpool pump for 3bbls been using one for over a year now at least once every week.

I have a riptide as well as some TD5 pumps for pumping water and rims and they are also great pumps.. I like the ease of cleaning on the riptide as we use it for wort/rims flow. I would choose the riptide over a chugger or at least the chugger or march with the optional riptide pump head which is available since march makes the riptide for blichmann. But conveniences like the power switch at the base and enclosed motor as mentioned are a huge step in the right direction on the riptide.

 

[Dland]

Now the work around to this would be to use a smaller spray ball with finer openings right? Well heres the problem I found with that... the opening plug up very quickly with trub or chunks of krausen causing the ball to work poorly... At that point you have to basically preclean the kettle or fermenter by hand beforehand before using the small sprayball...

I realize that you are brewing on a larger scale than most of us, but yeah, I do pre clean fermentors before using spray ball. Have never assumed the yeast/krausen ring at top will be sprayed off, usually needs to be scrubbed if fermentor has been sealed a while between batches or run multiple consecutive batches on same yeast.

The spray ball still eliminates need to go over whole inner surface of fermentor while cleaning.

Since I flush my little home brewer plate cooler in same cleaning cycle, bits of debris in spray ball can be a problem. I solved this by adding a inline strainer to clean/sanitize water cycle.

If I was brewing on lager scale and had fermentors you have, I'd defiantly get an industrial pump(s) also.

 

[augiedoggy]

I realize that you are brewing on a larger scale than most of us, but yeah, I do pre clean fermentors before using spray ball. Have never assumed the yeast/krausen ring at top will be sprayed off, usually needs to be scrubbed if fermentor has been sealed a while between batches or run multiple consecutive batches on same yeast.

The spray ball still eliminates need to go over whole inner surface of fermentor while cleaning.

Since I flush my little home brewer plate cooler in same cleaning cycle, bits of debris in spray ball can be a problem. I solved this by adding a inline strainer to clean/sanitize water cycle.

If I was brewing on lager scale and had fermentors you have, I'd defiantly get an industrial pump(s) also.

If used the way they were intended, real CIP sprayball setups do in fact completely remove all krausen rings as well as the hot break rings in boil kettles. They even clean all the buildup off my 4 ripple elements which I rotate 180 degrees halfway through the cip process.

These small low power home cip systems are used 99% of the time by folk who are unaware of just how effective a correctly operating cip setup works (I was in that same boat not long ago).. I'm not saying at all that this is the case for everyone including yourself but for some it seems, its about having the toys no matter how effective or ineffective they are at doing the job.. This does no good for effective improvements in products when people dont know what they are missing.

Its like prewashing your dishes before loading in the dishwasher for many homebrewers... why bother for such a small tank you can just as easily wipe out by hand at that point is all im saying.

I have NEVER had to reach into my fermenters at the pub and clean them by hand..Ive done so on my brites twice that I can rememeber.
I HAVE had to scrub down the inside of my boil kettle from time to time with a long handled brush when I felt I didnt want or need to use any acid after the pbw cleaning. Usually the CIP with 170 degree pbw is effective enough and if I want to make the inside shine again I cip afterwards with a strong saniclean solution.

 

[ChaosB]

don't need CIP but the RipTide pump that I ordered from BrewHardware sure helps. 3V HERMS system, start my cleaning water in the HLT + OxyClean or PBW and transfer it over to the mash kettle using the RipTide which has never had any issues and barely needs priming. Start the StarSan Solution and keep transferring cleaning liquids HLT to MLT to BK with two RipTides. They come apart really easy for cleaning, have a built in on/off switch, and have adjustable regulator on the output side.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have a 17gpm chugger max clone (which is a clone of the march pump) and I have tried it with regular sized spray balls with very limited success. Sure the ball has enough push from the pump to cause it to spin and rinse but there is very little actual spray force this way. Now the work around to this would be to use a smaller spray ball with finer openings right? Well heres the problem I found with that... the opening plug up very quickly with trub or chunks of krausen causing the ball to work poorly... At that point you have to basically preclean the kettle or fermenter by hand beforehand before using the small sprayball...

This may or may not be a viable solution for some homebrewers but my solution at my brewpub was to buy the proper sized pump for standard CIP balls. In fact I later bought a second one so I could have one on each floor.
I went with these 3/4hp sanitary pumps. The replacement seals are cheap and even the replacement motors are easy to find. I cant stress enough the amount change of effectiveness in cip between these two setups. also beware you need larger hoses with these as they are too powerful for silicone.

I built this combo keg washer and CIP cleaning solution based on that type of pump. It's a an aggressive beast.

 

[Surly]

I built this combo keg washer and CIP cleaning solution based on that type of pump. It's a an aggressive beast.

bobby, might you have a parts list and how to on this? Do you offer these for sale?

 

[Surly]

Bobby_M
Interested in learning more of the combo keg and CIP unit you mentioned above.

 

[Bobby_M]

The build was based on a chinese direct drive pump with TC ports found on EBay but it had seal problems pretty quickly so I wouldnt recommend it.

I dont have any plans to build more, it was a favor for a friend and put about $500 of labor into it.

 

[Surly]

Thanks for the response.

I will be in NJ in June and hope to stop in your shop.