RIMS part list & remedial question

[jwbeard]

Hey all -

Planning my RIMS system (following P-J's excellent diagrams, namely this one) and was hoping for a sanity check on my parts list... Any wiser minds have additions to the below?

• RIMS Tube (Brewhardware.com)
• Heating Element (to be purchased from Home Depot, see below)
  
  (from Auber Instruments):
• Wall Mount Box for Single Controller 10x8x6"
• 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (For SSR)
• Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/2 NPT Thread
• External Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR (Rectangular)
• Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil (x2)
• Illuminated Metal Maintained Push Button Switch, 19 mm (x3)
• Leviton 120V 15A US Socket, Panel Mount, NEMA 5-15R Round Cut (x2, one for the pump, one for the RIMS element)
• 120V 15A Receptacle, Panel Mount

Planning on using a 4500W or a 5500W 240V element on a 120V circuit (so, 1125 or 1375 effective watts). I understand that's sufficient for a 10 gallon system, but if anyone disagrees I am all ears If it matters, the mash tun is a kettle that can be on a burner too, so I can apply direct heat to accelerate any mash-out or steps as needed.

The remedial question which I'm rather sure of but would love confirmation: By my math, the system only needs the 25A contactor, but the 40A is like $2 more so... figure better safe than sorry. There's no issue using a 40A contactor in this system, right?

Thanks, all!

 

[Brumateur]

By my math, the system only needs the 25A contactor, but the 40A is like $2 more so... figure better safe than sorry. There's no issue using a 40A contactor in this system, right?

Sure, you can use 40A contactor with no problem. And it's even recommended to have some extra redundancy.

 

[jwbeard]

Sure, you can use 40A contactor with no problem. And it's even recommended to have some extra redundancy.

Perfect - Thanks!

 

[grupe]

why not use a 1500 watt 120 volt. 1300 watts on ten gallons is going to be fairly slow.

 

[jwbeard]

why not use a 1500 watt 120 volt. 1300 watts on ten gallons is going to be fairly slow.

Since the kettle can be heated via direct fire too, I mainly just need the RIMS to be able to hold the temp consistently - when ramping, I'll augment with a propane burn. The 1500W elements I found were typically much smaller, and I'd prefer to keep the watt density as low as possible. Bought a Camco 15597 yesterday at home depot, which should be perfect (ulwd) when run at 120...

Pulling the trigger on the rest of the parts - Thanks!