Reassembly of a Sankey?

[dtbritt]

Hi all, this is my first post so hopefully I won't be inadvertently violating any etiquette for this forum.

I am trying to keg a homebrew using a single valve (sankey type) keg. I've found plenty of information on how to DISassemble the keg (FYI, a good step-by-step can be found here: http://home.insightbb.com/~benschoep/keg/sankey.htm ). I've got that part done, and I've got the beer in the keg. Now I can't for the life of me figure out how to get this think back together.

The primary issue is that, once I insert the tube back into the keg and twist it into a locked position, I can't get the ring back in. I've tried taking an extra ring, cutting it in half, and inserting it, but that doesn't seal the valve and CO2 leaks out like crazy when I put the tap on. There's a pretty handy tool I found online ( the KegMan Kit: http://kegman.net/keg_kit.htm ) that looks like it's what I need, but by the time it arrives my brew will have turned.

Has anyone reassembled one before? Is there some easy way of getting that ring back in there that I've missed?

Thanks in advance!

Dave

 

[killian]

I think that part from kegman is the only thing that I have been able to find also. I have a couple of 5 gallon kegs I need to do something with. couldnt you find some way to seal the keg until the new part is shipped? or rack back into the carboy/bucket.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Dave,

Don't worry...no ettiquette violations thus far!

You will need either a whole snap ring or perhaps you can make do w/ the one you cut in half.

The whole ring must go in because it is what compresses the large o-ring on the keg stem to make a seal.

I've been kegging in 1/6 and 1/4 sankeys for about a year and w/ a little practice I feel they are superior to corney kegs.

My most recent method of installation simply uses a pair of pliers or channel locks to force the ring in the retaining groove by squeezing b/w the inside of the ring and the outside of the keg neck.. Start the ring by hand and you will probably be able to get half of it in. Position the part of the ring that is not in the groove yet directly above and adjacent to the groove and slowly and carefully compress the ring in the groove by squeezing it in w/ the pliers. If it won't go in, move back countercloclwise to where the ring is seated and slowly progress clockwise squeezing the ring in the groove every 1/4" or so.

As you are doing this, position and hold the free end of the ring inside the top of the keg neck so it is adjacent to the groove by pushing the free end of the ring to the inside of the circle reducing it's diameter.

I know it sounds complicated...but all you are doing is spiraling the ring back in the groove. I think you will probably need an intact ring to seal but you could try w/ the one you cut.

Good luck,
Mike

Edit...I would not bother w/ the kegman snap ring deal, there will be IMO other issues that may creep up. I can't understand how a single snap ring compresses the o-ring unless you use another tool $$$ to compress the stem down during installation.
Don't give up! Once you do it and realize what needs to be done...it's a twenty second job.

 

[Bobby_M]

Hmm, learn something new every day. I was under the impression that the seal is made when you put the valve assembly back in and turn clockwise. I figured the snap ring was just a tamper-proof safety thing. You can imagine why I thought that. If the snap ring does the O-ring compression, why does the spear have a keyway in a the first place?

 

[wilserbrewer]

I think it is a safety feature...if one were to remove the snap ring on a presurized keg the stem should hopefully leak pressure while remaining locked in place, rather than sending the stem skyward like a model rocket.

It is a great design!!! and w/ a little practice, patience and skill they work very well!!

MW

 

[dtbritt]

In a word? SUCCESS! MW, your suggestion did just the trick. And, might I add, it saved the day. I'm having a bar grand opening for my home bar on Saturday, and this was the featured beer.

Thanks for everyone's quick replies!

Dave

 

[wilserbrewer]

That's good news Dave...not much time till saturday, crank up the pressure and shake rattle and roll.
Keep on w/ the sankeys...they really work awesome!

 

[scottlindner]

I've been kegging in 1/6 and 1/4 sankeys for about a year and w/ a little practice I feel they are superior to corney kegs.

I'm digging up an old thread here. I'm curious what your reasons are for preferring Sankey's to Cornies for homebrew.

For anyone using a 15.5gal Sankey in a converted chest freezer. Is it too much weight for the bottom of the freezer when filled? Can you realistically pick it up and set it inside the freezer without hurting your back?

Scott

 

[wyzazz]

You don't need to use a full 1/2bbl, I use 1/6th & 1/4bbl sankey kegs. Given how much a 1/2bbl keg weighs, I don't see anyone lifting one in to a chest freezer alone, I have however seen a few folks on here with pulley and winch setups for just this very thing.

I prefer my sankey kegs/taps because they are more readily available, I only have 1 o-ring to replace if it goes bad, and they have built in check valves while corny kegs do not.

This coupled with the fact that my kegerator was already setup for sankey kegs is what did it for me! There must be some reason the soda industry stopped using them, and some reason that the micro/craft brew industry doesn't use them as well. Right?

 

[scottlindner]

I have however seen a few folks on here with pulley and winch setups for just this very thing.

Dang.. that's extreme. I ain't doin' that!

I prefer my sankey kegs/taps because they are more readily available, I only have 1 o-ring to replace if it goes bad, and they have built in check valves while corny kegs do not.

Good reason on the check valve. What do mean by Sankey kegs are more readily available? You mean filled with beer that you can buy, or to buy for homebrewing? I haven't seen a shortage of cheap Cornie kegs anywhere. Are they running in short supply in certain areas?

There must be some reason the soda industry stopped using them, and some reason that the micro/craft brew industry doesn't use them as well. Right?

The soda industry stopped using kegs entirely and went to concentrated bag in a box. That's why used cornies are (err.. were) so cheap.

Thanks for your thoughts on this. I picked up a couple of old Sankeys at a garage sale a long time ago and just now I'm getting to cleaning them out to figure out what I'm going to do with them. I'm thinking of using them as fermenters, or to actually put beer in them and serve but then I thought I wouldn't be able to get it into my chest freezer, and possibly even cutting the tops off for kettles. After reading your points, I think I will use them as fermenters because that keeps them whole for serving beer even though I probably won't ever use them for serving beer.

Scott

 

[wildwest450]

I'm digging up an old thread here. I'm curious what your reasons are for preferring Sankey's to Cornies for homebrew.

For anyone using a 15.5gal Sankey in a converted chest freezer. Is it too much weight for the bottom of the freezer when filled? Can you realistically pick it up and set it inside the freezer without hurting your back?

Scott

I used one once to ferment a double batch, I just placed a piece of plywood under it for additional support, no problems. You will need two people to take it out of there. It's freaking heavy!

 

[wyzazz]

I use them for all 3, Kettle/Fermenting/Serving. Everything is the same, makes more sense to me.