These stains are permanent. I tried to flow fairly strong caustic through the lines at one point to try to abate this staining without luck. If caustic won't fix it, not much else will...
Really clear silicone tubing
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These stains are permanent. I tried to flow fairly strong caustic through the lines at one point to try to abate this staining without luck. If caustic won't fix it, not much else will...
Bobby, do you have any comment on stamandster's remark? I was thinking the same thing.
OP
OP
I don't see any reason why not. To use silicone as a sight glass, you'd want to put a bulkhead in on the top and bottom probably based off my high flow elbarb. It would end up being more expensive than the WLSL kit due to the 1/2" NPT fitting sizes. It would be more manageable via 1/4" NPT parts but that would require smaller silicone tubing.
If I had to build this right now, it would be about $14 each for the top and bottom bulkhead, about $4 in silicone, and then $3 for the clamps.
If I had to build this right now, it would be about $14 each for the top and bottom bulkhead, about $4 in silicone, and then $3 for the clamps.
I was thinking of using the high flow elbarb as well, but just 1 and using an eyebolt on top like you do for your standard sightglass. Would there be enough thread on the elbarb for 2 locknuts, at least 1 SS washer, a silicone o-ring, and a 1.2 mm thick kettle wall? (I should probably just go with the WLSL kit, huh?
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OP
OP
Silicone tubing isn't stiff enough for an eyebolt to hold it upright. It's basically got to be stretched between two barbs. The ELbarb has female threads so I'd make it weldless with a 1/2" to 3/8" hex bushing, SS washer and silicone gasket.
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