Rate my weld job!

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No another up all nighter just not on line. I have to be up by 8 AM left coast time, to bed by 1 AM on average not by choice.
Used Miller 250 Synchrowaves come up once in a while, 350's rare as hell again as you stated you had better know your machines at testing time.
A cap in the PC board the only thing that can fail over the years with Syncs but can be repaired rather cheaply. Miller's tech / repair facility within 10 miles from me plus the tech a very close friend of 20 plus years. We worked up my 350 billing list vs 250.
A almost basic 350 comes with many items that a 250 offers as optional, a option loaded 250 was nearing a 350 in price years ago hence the 350 upgrade. One must be able to feed it as full power without correction caps is 131 amps, with optional caps 101 amps 240 volt @ 385 amp output. Way over the top unless 1/2" aluminum one pass is your thing, arc heat goes right thru your leathers. I found a good used 250 for a friend $385 total cost by the time it was plugged in, I wired in a receptacle at his big garage / shop.
When a good one comes up used they go quick, Sync owners rarely let one go.
 
You'll then like the Millermatic 251 Mig, 30A Spoolgun, dual bottle rack, twin flow meters / regulators as well a owner owned C25 260 cu/ft bottle.
Hey nerdie, by 9 PM left coast time this forum's dead as the right coasters need their beauty sleep LOL!

Left coast GreenMonti must be old he took his nap.


I have the 210 with the spoolgun.

Yes, I am old in the mind and young at heart. Oh, how I like my sleep.:D
 
GreenMonti; if your pretty good you must be damn good as your not very good looking. BTW did you take your Metamucil today? LOL! I love to tease people it's just my nature.
I'm old the minds young the bodies antique, what's up with this old age crap? Prosit.
 
okay I need to make some SS welding friends local... LOL.. i don't mind doing side jobs i do a few already... I'm always eager to learn everything... every trade....

"jack of all trades... master of none" ... LOL...
 
Okay then.. back on subject... I'm going to clean the welds today.. how should I do it? a dremel right? which bit? don't use any that has been used before? sand paper? file? do tell... thanks...
 
Okay then.. back on subject... I'm going to clean the welds today.. how should I do it? a dremel right? which bit? don't use any that has been used before? sand paper? file? do tell... thanks...

The reason to use a new cutter is that if you use one on carbon steel, it will pick up bits of the steel then embed them in the stainless and cause rust.

The best tool would be a carbide burr and a die grinder (or a dremel).

The "sugar" is fairly hard so I don't think you will get far with sandpaper by hand.

Not sure what kind of bit/cutters/stones you have for your dremel, but use one small enough to get in close to the junction between the coupling and the keg.

As said before, it's not an easy task. When you reach to the bottom of the keg, you can't get you head in there at the same time to see what your doing. There is not a lot of room to work. I laid my on it's side on a workbench so at least I wasn't bending over it the whole time.

Good luck.
 
Looking at the pictures again at the back side I believe you don't have what we can sugar. The welds look like they where back flowed and what you see on the back side is weld pool penetrating the keg. Little to much heat, if you look at a back side that has not been back flowed it will look like grains of sugar and feel like sugar. Feel the backside and I think you find the area feel fairly smooth. In that case all I would do is scrub with BKF and a scuff pad.

My two cents


God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman:cool:
 
I just have a few more laps around the block than you, smarter, no. Enjoy as the clock ticks rather fast, time waits for no man. You goofing of on night shift or just a night owl? By 8 PM left coast time this forum's rather dead.

me... night owl and morning person... LOL... I have work in the AM but got too much stuff to do all the time...

Time is ticking too fast for me already...
 
Wow, my little complaint straightened you guys out. I was just kidding, I looked at GreenMonti's age on his profile, and I'm much older than he is.:tank:

BrewBeemer, on the other hand, has a few years on me.:ban:


Like I said, I'm old in the mind and young at heart. LOL.

I guess old people say that too, don't they?:D
 
Green, don't make me head up north and thump ya a top of the head with my cane do ya, LOL???? This would also cost ya a few brewskis. My lifes tach has been in the red zone way too many years but i'll never give up. We still have the Swag, I bet he's the lead sled wheels crowd. My friend at 81 takes his 32 Vicky and heads to Bonneyville every year, daily drivers 48 Mercs with flatties.
 
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Swagman Beer Wagon Surfsup Kansas
 
got some bits from my uncle a jeweler ... I'm not sure if they are carbide but he said this bit is bad ass and will clean it up real nice... want pics?
 
I bet not as 61 to 80 number bits and smaller in carbide would break way too easy unless used in a tight tolerance drill press or jewerler's lathe with a magnifying glass. I've broken my share of them. HSS bit would be my guess.
A great writeup with your progress plus the PC board you etched is trick.
 
From a jeweler ... I just hydro tested... No leaks... Now to make it clean...

finally resized pictures so it ain't huge



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Is this a carbide burr like you guys said?



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I went online and did a google search for carbide burr and found this image...
looks the same

Carbide%20Burr%201.jpg
 
I think that will help. With the flat end, if might be tough to get in close to the joint between the coupling and keg. Give it a shot.

Good luck.
 
so those sanding drums were too big ... I went to Home Cheap-O to get some smaller ones... and they didn't have any!!! WTF.... anyways they had the carbide bit that looks the same as my jewelry bit but it was $9 so I didn't get it... I figure if this bit is good enough for gold and platinum it should be good enough for my kegs.... So i am going to use my bootleg jewelry bit... and... sand it down by hand it if it needs it
 
I was thinking more in line using a 1/8" EX Large Football carbide with a Dremel cleaning up the welds, conical sanding cones to smooth like used in engine head porting. Clean the area with a light glass bead blasting. if need be apply some hand sanding to further smooth down any rough surfaces. Call it good.
 
I borrowed the dremel.. I'm not sure if the bits u are talking about were used with other metals prior.... anyways... some eye candy for u.... just came in.... I never did an all grain by the way.... but I go big or go home... I might be too cheap to buy new bits

a 50 feet 1/2" copper chiller.. I actually wanted a 5/10 split.... contemplating of returning it... maybe I'll just get a SS 1/2" chiller... I <3 SS.... looks PIMP and less hassle...



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Barley Crusher.... A bit damage from shipping....



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everything just came in today

waiting for my single tier from PinUp(marcus)....
 
Just got this done the other day. Outside looks fine but the inside has some small spaces I'm worried about. Should I take it back and have him fill it?
This is for my boil kettle

image.jpg
 
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