Question Regarding New Kegerator Build

[AndrewGWU]

I know this is probably a common question and I have tried to find the answers on my own, but may need all of you folks' assistance.

I am going to pick up this Kenmore fridge tomorrow (http://charlotte.craigslist.org/hsh/1860819317.html) and need to know if anyone sees any reason why it would not work for a kegerator. Inside it is 29.5 inches tall and does not have a freezer.

The model number is supposedly 564. 59149510.

Is there anything I need to be cautious or look out for? Has anyone done this model or know someone who has? I am going to look at it in the morning, it is an hour away, but I am taking two corney kegs with me with the connections to see how they fit.

 

[kpr121]

Make sure you have enough width from the compressor hump to the front door to fit whatever size keg you are planning on using (pinlock, balllock, 1/6 commercial, 1/4 commercial?) Be careful of the shelves on the door, they may protrude further in to the fridge then it looks. I would just bring an empty keg with you when you go to check it out.

29.5 inches high should give you plenty clearance for a tap and beer line to fit.

 

[AndrewGWU]

I am going to be using ball lock kegs. If the door stuff is in the way can it be taken off?

 

[kpr121]

I am going to be using ball lock kegs. If the door stuff is in the way can it be taken off?

Sure it can. That's just one more thing you have to worry about though when your making your decision. If you take the door skin off you'll have to replace it with something.

 

[Gfei]

The shelves on the door can always be removed if need be. The only thing to be careful of is when you drill the top for a tower (if that's the plan). There are likely coils up there and in the side walls you'll need to avoid.

 

[kpr121]

Taking the shelves off is easy. It's the molded door itself that's the issue. I can see that can dispenser getting in the way. If it doesn't, you have a nice place to put your backup stash of PBR!

 

[Reelale]

A dremel tool with a cut-off wheel makes quick work of the plastic molded door insert. The insulation is sprayed on the door itself, so that would remain intact.

 

[advent]

I almost bought that fridge for a back up from the same seller.. how much did the fridge cost you?

Also there is a chance that door shelving is just screwed on so it comes off easily? you will want to replace the shelving with a plexiglass piece from lowes (Home depot doesnt carry it in our area) that can be custom cut by them.. It about $23..

 

[AndrewGWU]

I wound up getting the fridge yesterday, it cost me $80. Everything fit so well that I couldn't pass it up. The shelves lifted right out and the kegs set in it perfectly with absolutely no door mods. This seems like it will be just as easy as the sanyos to build. See below photo link.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vh-FmxTpgHy0akWPtp-_Yg?feat=directlink

I took the top off to find the freon line using the corn starch and rubbing alcohol method and marked it so I could be safe in drilling my hole for the tower. I still haven't decided if I want a single faucet design and keep my 10lb co2 tank in the fridge or if I want to drill a line out and fit two kegs and therefore two faucets. I really see it being a waste not to do the latter.

The only thing I am worried about is where to drill my line out for the co2 tank. I am thinking that in the back where the ledge is over the compressor would be good because I do not believe there are any freon lines there. Here you can see a pic of where the freon line comes in and runs into cold lines which stick out in the back of the inside (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mh-M9bvOsN7RaXhx4eYX5g?feat=directlink ). He is the pic from the outside ( http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rkcfFKhDa2PpJ8phUI2P8A?feat=directlink ) The line you see going in near the power cord is the line in the photo. The one all the way to the left is the warm line that runs up the side and across the top. Would it be safe to drill my co2 line in between these through that bottom back riser like the freon line is done?

I also have another question... where is the best place to buy a good tower at a good price or would it be cheaper to buy all the components and make one. I have the ability to get stainless pipe very reasonable and my father works in a machine shop. It just seems like when I add all the components up such as shanks, faucets, top cap, etc that I would run into as much as a tower cost.

 

[AndrewGWU]

Any ideas about where to put the CO2 line or regarding the tower? I hope to be able to drill it tonight, hopefully someone has done this before or knows more about these fridges to give me some advice on where to put it.

I have about decided to build the tower. My father is manufacturing a 3" by 12" stainless tube with flange on the bottom with two 15/16th holes for the shanks. It looks like with the shanks and two Perlick 525SS I am going to be out about $120.

Where is the cheapest place to purchase elbow shanks and faucets? I got my figures from some new ones on ebay and have searched around and can't find much cheaper.