Prototype Previews: Hopback and Heat Stick

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Can't wait to see the finished product. I'm thinking if trading in the prize money for a 30plate long plate chiller.
 
Yes, I got them in TODAY. I need to work out the exact price and do all the photos, and descriptions, etc. The big bummer is that I won't have the accessory stainless heating elements in for like 2 weeks. I really like the idea of selling them as a kit together.

sweet, I'll wait for the combo. I'm brewing this friday so it's not like I would have had it in time anyways, who knows after that.
 
Here are some quick phone pics. I'm not ready to package them for sale just yet because we're swamped with order volume and need to catch up. Couple more days hopefully.

A couple highlights..

The cap where the element threads in has an oring groove so you can crank the crap out of it and the oring stays in place. Fat ground lug on the back plate attached on the inside. The top entrance for the power cable uses a grip that can accommodate a huge range of cable diameters from 14/3 to 10/3 SJ cord. The drop tube starts out straight and I can offer it that way or put a J-hook 90 to 110 degree bend on the top.

I know the question of price is going to come up and I'm pretty sure $40-45 is about right. I just need to verify my shipping cost from the factory since I haven't seen the invoice yet. The stainless elements are going to be under $40 so around $80 is not so bad (I think) when you compare it to two or more permanent kettle installs.

hotrod1.jpg


hotrod2.jpg


hotrod4.jpg


hotrod3.jpg
 
You're the man bobby. I'd have thought something like this would be in the 120 price range. Hell the decent all ss elements I've been able to source range 50-100 bucks depending on wattage. This is badass.
 
Seriously - you are the man Bobby. These things look unbelievable. Can't wait to give you some money.

Cheers.
 
Now that is looking nice, I can't wait to purchase one, as it should really speed up my stove top brewing time! I am also interested in knowing what cord grip you used, as I use them quite often at work, but that looks like it's a little different style.
 
Seriously considering getting the Hot Rod when it is available. I do smaller batches but would love to cut the strike and boil times down by a lot (currently about 45 minutes for strike and 45 minutes for a boil on my crappy stove). Would an element like this work? This would fit into my pot much easier. https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/water-heater-element-2853.jpg It is 120V 1500W element made from incoloy. I am assuming this would work on a 15A circuit. I would also be using an extension cord with built in GFCI. Thanks for the reply and I can't wait to give you money.
 
Bobby it don't look like I'll be able to get my second review in by the deadline. It shouldn't be more than a week late.
 
No worries about deadlines. It was a date I pulled out of my rear since people were concerned about it. I just got some of the coarse SS screen that I wanted some people to try (the ones that were still going for 100% leaf hops in the unit). I was able to spot weld it to the perf plate but for people that need to retrofit, I think just sandwiching it on the suspension bolt will be fine because the flow is in the correct direction to hold it in place. That's assuming everyone flows it bottom to top. For those who don't have one of the beta test units, I apologize for such a cryptic post.
 
I intend to use this device for mostly leaf hops. How will adding another screen to the one that's there solve the plugging issue?
 
Because the perforated plate only has about 37% open area and when the very top layer of hops gets sucked against the holes, the flow is probably reduced to 2%. A coarse woven screen holds that layer away from the perf plate allowing it to continue to flow. It would be similar to dropping a 1/4" layer of rice hulls on top of the hops.
 
Bobby. I sent you an email back on 5 Oct with picks and feedback on my prototype hop back with whole hops and didn't hear back from you. Can you send a pick of the retrofit so I can build one? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
After rereading your post I came up with this. Made from the screen from an old bazooka. Is this what you were talking about?ImageUploadedByHome Brew1414266436.761444.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Bought a 10ft 12/3 outdoor extension cord, a plug in portable GFCI outlet and i have an element on the way. Is there a preorder list for the Hot Rod?
 
Gravity is not an issue. There are 2 screens and the flow is bottom to top.
 
I will say this. I transferred today, the ipa I used to test the hop bomb jr., the wort is very clear. And the hop presence was more than I was expecting. And that's just from the sample I took for gravity. I think I'll be pleased with this beer. I used no dry-hopping and this one usually gets a good 1.5-2 oz of dry-hops. It's a single hop citra ipa. It has a good bit of crystal 40 in there so it gets a good orange/amber color. And the hops are right there up front, but not too over-bearing. I took this style from mikkellers single hop series. Only I use a California ale as opposed to their Trappist style yeast. I am pleased with the results and look forward to next week when it's finshed carbing. So even though I had issues with plugging. I'm sure we can nail this down, because it does exactly what it should.
 
Any idea how many hot 🔥 rods will be available once you are able to sell them?
 
I have 50 on hand right now. I have to do some deburring where the wire enters the top tube before I can ship them. I also figured out a pretty simple, but effective solution for holding it upright and off the bottom in any sized pot.

I verified that the 3 conductors of a 10/3 SJOOW cable will pull down the tube when it's straight, but It's not as easy if I put a 90 bend first. Once I debur the opening, I'll give it one more try to be sure so I know if I can offer the tube bent for those using 5500 watt elements. Also, as I suspected, you can also pull a narrow probe RTD or thermocouple down the tube and the 3 power wires apply a nice firm pressure to hold the sensor against the tube sidewall. I'm dying to verify if this is an accurate way to measure the vessel's temp but I still haven't wired the 50 amp circuit at the shop.

The price on this first batch is going to be $49. You'll get everything shown in the picture plus two crimp on ring terminals for the element connection with heat shrink and a height adjustable clamp that you can bolt to the top sidewall of your pot.
 
Well, there goes another $50 out of my wallet...lol
Put me down for one when you start selling them.
 
Yeah I'd like to grab a couple myself. Sounds like an amazing product Bobby.

Cheers,
 
Back
Top