Proper Temperature Controller for Window A/C

[Moonpile]

I'm planning on using a 5000 BTO Haier window unit air conditioner to refrigerate the bar I'm building. I'd like to wire up a temperature controller to switch an outlet which would power the A/C. I'll either move the built-in temp probe to the outside or override it, as needed.

I'd pretty much settled on a Love TS2-010 when I came across the Auber Universal 1/32 DIN PID, which is a good bit less expensive.

Is there any reason either one of these would be inappropriate for my planned use?

 

[shortyjacobs]

The Auber can only handle 3 amps contact current....your AC unit will pull far more than that.

I recommend the ebay aquarium temperature controller, like this.

I bought this exact one, and hooked it up this past weekend. Works fantastic, and has 10 amp contact rating. 30 bucks shipped...you just have to wait a few weeks for it to arrive from China.

 

[Moonpile]

Thanks shorty! That's kind of what I thought. I'm happy with the Love controller if I can confirm that it will work. It says it requires 110 VAC, which is normal household electric right? It outputs 15A.

The A/C unit is described at 115 volt, but no word on the amps.

 

[shortyjacobs]

The TS2 will work great for you, especially if you don't want to wait for the eBay one.

110 VAC is normal household current, (110-120V...no one seems to agree). Your AC unit pulls less than 15 amps for sure, since it's designed to plug into a normal household outlet, and normal household outlets are circuit breakered at 15A, (meaning it would blow a breaker if it pulled more than 15A).

Long story short, the Love will work just fine.

 

[prosper]

a 5000 BTU AC unit probably pulls somewhere in the 5A range

 

[chuckjaxfl]

a 5000 BTU AC unit probably pulls somewhere in the 5A range

Which would make the Auber SYL-2342 a stand alone option. (10A @ 120VA)

 

[goybar]

How about a CoolBot?

Chris

 

[shortyjacobs]

How about a CoolBot?

Chris

$300????? Yeah, I think I'll buy 10 ebay controllers instead...

 

[goybar]

Yeah, they are pricey to say the least. Watching the video it seems like a pretty cool product.

Better suited for a walk-in cooler.

Could probably do the same thing wth a Love controller I you can figure out how to heat the thermistor on the AC unit.

Chris

 

[Moonpile]

I think I'll go with the Love controller.

My plan is to simply turn the air conditioner to its coldest setting and move its built in probe outside my refrigerated bar. This way, whenever the Love powers it on, the a/c will sense that my utility room is warmer than its own setting and activate. If that doesn't work, I'm prepared to bypass the built in controller.

 

[Moonpile]

Since I'm using the controller to switch a regular outlet, I could run a small bulb on the other which could heat the a/c's probe, I suppose.

 

[goybar]

That sounds like it would work well. Even just a little night light. Wrap the thermistor to it with aluminum foil.

I have several extra AC units left over from when I installed Central Air.....

Maybe a small "walk-in" refrigeration room under the stairs in the basement.

 

[Moonpile]

I just ordered the Love TS2. Thanks for the advice guys. I'll report on the install and results in my bar build thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/custom-refrigerated-bar-191981/

 

[Catt22]

Since I'm using the controller to switch a regular outlet, I could run a small bulb on the other which could heat the a/c's probe, I suppose.

That's exactly what I was thinking might work well. Even the smallest wattage night light bulb should provide enough heat. I like the Cool Bot, but $300 is a bit much to fork over when it seems that you could build essentially the same contraption for the price of a Controller, a light bulb and some wiring. Or is there more to the Cool Bot than this?

 

[shortyjacobs]

That's exactly what I was thinking might work well. Even the smallest wattage night light bulb should provide enough heat. I like the Cool Bot, but $300 is a bit much to fork over when it seems that you could build essentially the same contraption for the price of a Controller, a light bulb and some wiring. Or is there more to the Cool Bot than this?

There is. From the looks of it there are three components to the CoolBot. 1 is the temp sensor in your ferm chamber. 2 is the light bulb (or their analog). 3 is another temp sensor, this one in the cooling fins on the AC unit.

I think #3 is meant to ensure your AC unit doesn't freeze up. I'm willing to bet that if it doesn't see a temp rise a few minutes after it shuts off the light bulb on the AC thermistor, it will assume the coils are iced up, then delay the next light bulb cycle, (and therefore compressor cycle) to allow a defrost of the cooling coils.

I'm just guessing here though...

It's also worth noting that you can program any normal temp controller with the same function, (at least I can with my $30 ebay aquarium temp controller). If you find your system icing up too much, just up the delay time a minute or two at a time until it stops happening...

 

[Moonpile]

I'm not too concerned about ice on the coils. It's a small (apprx 29 cubic feet), infrequently opened space. If it has a problem, I can blow a fan on the coils inside 24/7.

The probe I selected was backordered until 12/14!! I switched it to another one but not before they shipped out the TS2-010. Oh well. I guess I'd call to order from these guys if I ever had to order from them again since their website doesn't indicate stocking status.

 

[kickrjason]

Any frozen coil issues yet?

 

[Shockerengr]

There is. From the looks of it there are three components to the CoolBot. 1 is the temp sensor in your ferm chamber. 2 is the light bulb (or their analog). 3 is another temp sensor, this one in the cooling fins on the AC unit.

I think #3 is meant to ensure your AC unit doesn't freeze up. I'm willing to bet that if it doesn't see a temp rise a few minutes after it shuts off the light bulb on the AC thermistor, it will assume the coils are iced up, then delay the next light bulb cycle, (and therefore compressor cycle) to allow a defrost of the cooling coils.

I'm just guessing here though...

It's also worth noting that you can program any normal temp controller with the same function, (at least I can with my $30 ebay aquarium temp controller). If you find your system icing up too much, just up the delay time a minute or two at a time until it stops happening...

What it does is shut the compressor off if once the coils hit about ~30 degrees. One side affect of this is depending on the installation, you probably won't get much below 38-40 degrees.