Portable 5 Gallon Keg Cooler

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jcav

Still Believing In God, Family &This Great Country
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So last November my youngest son got married. The reception was at a really nice building on the beach. The huge outside covered porch facing the water was where the bar and drinks were served. My son and daughter-in-law wanted me to make an English Brown Ale to be served at the wedding. My son (the groom) and I brewed the beer and I needed a portable kegerator to keep the beer cold and it had to be able to dispense the beer with C02 gas. It also had to hold a full 5 gallon corny keg. Everywhere I searched I found coolers that would fit a 2.5 gallon keg but not a 5 gallon one.

Prior to this I saw the September 2016 issue of "Brew Your Own" magazine and they had a an article in the projects section by Peter Nichols. I knew right away that this was the solution to my problem. Thanks Peter! I built this portable keg cooler and it came out great and worked flawlessly at the reception. It kept the beer cold literally all day when filled with ice and there were no foaming issues and everyone loved the beer.

I thought I would post how I built this in case anyone else wants to make one for a long weekend getaway, camping trips, hunting and fishing cabins, a friend's party, or whenever one would want to take a full keg with them. I followed Peter's build instructions in the article and here is how I made mine.

Parts & Tools Needed:
(2) 10 gallon (38-L) Water Coolers with screw tops (I got mine at Home Depot)
(1) 3 1/8 inch Beer Shank with 90 degree tail piece
(1) Beer Faucet with handle
(1) 2 7/8 inch Bulkhead Adapter (1/4 inch male flare fitting)
(1) Gas Keg Post Adapter (1/4 inch female flare fitting, so you can use a gas quick connect for the gas line)
(1) Large tube of 100% Silicone sealant
(1) Angle Grinder or saw capable of cutting a 2 inch (5-cm) depth
(1) Power Drill with a 7/8 inch and 1/2 inch wood boring bits
(1) Dremel with cutting blade
(1) Tape Measure
(1) Sharpie)
(1) 4 1/2 foot piece of string or twine
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Using a Sharpie, draw a line all around one cooler 11 1/2 inches (29cm) below the top with the lid on. I used a piece of string and tied it around the cooler at the right height. The string held tight against one of the grooves in the cooler, and then using the string I traced the line around the string and it transferred to the cooler. I then used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and slowly cut along the line I made with the Sharpie. The plastic will cut and also melt a little as you go and there will be orange plastic shavings, and insulation foam all over the floor so be prepared for a mess. You may want to wear a mask as well or you will breathe the particles in as you make the cut.

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Since the top of the full size cooler that was not cut is not flat and has screw threads for the screw on lid, you have to trim the inside white plastic on the top piece that you just cut in half (the short one with the handles). You need to trim off 1 1/2 inches (3.8 cm) all the way around. I then used a Dremel tool with a cutting blade to trim this all the way around. You can throw away this small circular piece that you just cut off. You will also have to trim away all excess insulating foam that is in the way, so the seam on the outside and inside of the two coolers will line up when you put the top on. Put the 11 1/2 inch top on the full uncut cooler and check for alignment. You may have to trim off some more insulation to get it to seat correctly.
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You need to use the white round plastic piece (on the left in the photo) that is left over from the cut cooler as a seal, inside between both the top and bottom parts when you put them together. Cut about 6 inches (15 cm) down and all around the bottom section of the cut cooler to get the white piece out. Pull the white piece away and remove the insulation.
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This white seal will prevent leaks and make the cooler extremely strong. Put the top short cooler on top of the full cooler and align the handles. Then without using silicone sealant make a dry fit and put the white left over plastic piece inside the cooler and try and flatten it out. It will flatten out with the graduation marks right side up or upside down, but it will flatten out and be a tight fit. Then once you figure out which way it fits bests remove the plastic piece and make a mark with the Sharpie 3 inches (7.5 cm) above the inside seam which was made by the two coolers coming together. Make a second mark on the other interior side of the seam. These are the marks you will use to match the top of the seal to when you put it inside the cooler. This way you will have 3 inches (7.5 cm) of seal above and below the middle seam where the two coolers come together. Run a bead of Silicone sealant directly on the inside seam where the two coolers come together and then spread sealant all over the white piece. Squeeze the white seal piece sides together so it fits inside the cooler, and then lower it down to the marks. Release the white seal piece wipe off your hands and then smooth out the seal all around the inside of the cooler. Put a final bead of Silicone around the top and bottom edges of the white seal. Allow to dry.
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Use a power drill and a 7/8 inch wood boring bit and drill a hole through the cooler about 5 1/2 inches (14.5 cm) below the lid and equidistant between the handles. Take into account the shank spacer so it doesn't lie over any ridges on the outside of the cooler. Push the shank through the hole and tighten the locking nut. Do the same on the backside for the bulkhead adapter except use a 1/2 inch wood boring bit. I used a keg post adapter that screwed onto the bulkhead fitting. Use a gas keg post and screw this onto the adapter. Now you have a quick connect for your C02. Use a 1/4 inch female flare to the inside of the bulkhead adapter for tubing up to your gas quick connect to the keg. Push one end of a 10 foot (you can use 6, or 8 feet or whatever you want) beer line tubing onto the end of the 90 degree shank elbow and add a quick connect to the other end for the outlet from the keg. Screw on your faucet and handle.
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Photos of the interior with the keg and liquid and gas lines installed.
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I had fun building this and I can now take a keg with me anywhere and it is fully functional with out lugging a kegerator. The ice will stay cold for two days if you keep the lid on tight. If you need to lift the cooler with the keg inside use the lower handles. It is plenty strong with the top handles but why place undo stress on the seam. It weighs a lot with a full keg and ice so have a friend grab one handle, and you grab the other, especially if you have to go up a flight of stairs.
 
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What are the pros and cons for this vs a jockey box?

Good question. For me the jockey box has a stainless steel coil inside a cooler and the cooler is filled with ice. So the beer is cooled when it goes through the coil. The keg is usually outside the jockey box (at least the ones I have seen) and the beer will be warm in the keg. Unless you put the keg in a garbage can with ice. But that is another thing to lug around and deal with.

With the portable cooler the whole keg is kept very cold once you fill the cooler with ice. So the beer is cold the whole time and since the beer line is submerged in the same ice, there is no foaming problems from a warm beer line, (which sometimes happens with a kegerator with a tower and no fan) as the beer line is in the same ice as the keg, and it comes right out of the tap cold. Plus this is all in one nice portable package, with a small footprint, which is what I wanted. All you do is connect your C02 gas tank to the cooler and set the regulator to the correct psi (depending on how long the beer line is ) and pull the tap handle. Plus cleaning the beer line is a little easier than cleaning the coil when you are done, and you can see inside the beer line. At least these are my observations.

John
 
OP,
Anyone ever try this with 5 gallon igloo coolers?
Obviously less room for ice around the edges, but only some, there is still room for ice completely around the keg. Just not as thick of layer.
5 gallon coolers are less than half the cost of a 10 gallon cooler(20 bucks vs 50ish). Hence why i ask.
This is a nice build, i have been on the verge of making similar set ups but glad i ran across this one, as it's pretty snazzy.
 
Thanks, I went with the 10 gallon sized coolers as the other coolers that I have seen in the box and sporting good stores were not tall enough. The one I made works great if you are interested in building it!

Good Luck,
John
 
I am guessing you saved quite a bit of scratch as opposed to buying one of Pancho's coolers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJR4Q2V/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Actually Pancho did not have his coolers for sale at the time (2016). His coolers hit the market some time after. I saved a lot of money building my own and it was a fun build. There is definitely a market for a product like Pancho's as there was nothing commercially available at the time I made mine.

John
 
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I have seen those pancho coolers, if looks mattered more than money i would get one.
Wouldn't there be a lot of headspace over they keg with one of those though?
 
I have seen those pancho coolers, if looks mattered more than money i would get one.
Wouldn't there be a lot of headspace over they keg with one of those though?

No not really just a few inches with mine (can't speak to Panchos). I fill to the top of the keg with ice, just to the keg lid handle. Will keep it ice cold for 48 hours, no problem at all. Just keep the lid on and the beer line is also under the ice so, no foaming!

John
 
John, was the gas keg post assembly a bunch of pieces you put together or a kit you found? Do you have a parts list for everything in that assembly?
Thanks
Looking at all sorts of other options but there's no point in Reinventing the wheel on this one
 
It was several pieces put together. I think I can dig up a list for you and I will post it for you. Might be a day or two though....

John
 
Ok, for the gas keg post you need a 2 7/8 inch bulkhead adaptor: http://www.hopgoblin.com/2-7-8-inch-Stainless-Steel-Bulkhead-Adapter-p/kg87428.htm

1/4" FFL FEMALE FLARE TO 19/32" -18 KEG POST ADAPTER. This attaches to the bulkhead on one end and the other end goes into a regular ball lock gas keg post. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ffltogaspost.htm

A Gas Side Ball Lock Keg Post https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ballpostgas1932.htm This one fits on top of the keg post adapter above.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ballpostgas1932.htm

This Swivel Flare Adaptor 1/4" FFL X 1/4" OD Hose Barb goes inside the keg to your gas line. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fflbarb516.htm

You need these flare gaskets in between the fittings that go on your 2 7/8 inch bulkhead: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/flaregasket.htm

Let me know if you need anything else.

John
 
Is there any need to use liquid nails or equivalent between the two coolers under the ring that is siliconed in?

Not sure if this is over thinking, just want to to be sturdy and top cooler not to swivel.

As with any project, is there anything you would change or do differently?
 
Is there any need to use liquid nails or equivalent between the two coolers under the ring that is siliconed in?

Not sure if this is over thinking, just want to to be sturdy and top cooler not to swivel.

As with any project, is there anything you would change or do differently?

That silicone is very strong once it drys. The top cooler will not move or swivel at all once it cures. You really don't need liquid nails at all. With that said however, I do not lift the cooler with the full keg of beer and ice by the top handles. This would place an undue amount of stress on the seal, so I always use the bottom handles.

John
 
Thanks for the help, will be posting pictures when the build gets done.... just curious what do you call this unit?
Im learning toward BeerTender
 
Thanks for the help, will be posting pictures when the build gets done.... just curious what do you call this unit?
Im learning toward BeerTender

Beer Tender is cool! I just call it my portable kegerator! Good luck getting her done and be sure to post some pics!

John
 
Latest issue of Zymurgy had a low key version of this, i modified with the manifold and handle carrier. Also got a gauge gaurd on order. Im making two of those beertenders, figured this would come in handy for them.
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Very Nice!

John
Look, twins!
Im still waiting on the gas side bulkhead from hopgoblin....I recieved an order confirmation but not a shipping email, oh well it should arrive soon i hope.
Im debating about putting the gas past under the top carry handle and likewise with the second one, that way i can decal or paint the back with something, brewery name ect.
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That's great you did an excellent job on those! Absolutely, make it the way you want, great idea and this way you can paint your brewery logo on it! Thanks for posting and I'm glad you got some use out of my thread!

John
 
How much did it cost to make that ? I think it's awesome . What a great idea !
I bought my coolers used, so half price of new ones, i had the taps and shanks already, so i just had to buy the gas side assembly, the 90 house barb and beer line.

My total cost per unit after figuring was about $84

If you had to buy new coolers add $50 So $134

If you had to buy ok taps and shanks add $30? So $164
 
I bought my coolers used, so half price of new ones, i had the taps and shanks already, so i just had to buy the gas side assembly, the 90 house barb and beer line.

My total cost per unit after figuring was about $84

If you had to buy new coolers add $50 So $134

If you had to buy ok taps and shanks add $30? So $164

Ty ! definitely could come in handy
 
How much did it cost to make that ? I think it's awesome . What a great idea !

I agree, mine cost right around $170.00 as I had to order the parts and pay shipping for some of the items. If you could source some of these parts locally it would be a little cheaper. But at the time I made mine and posted this thread nothing was available out there to buy, so I was happy I was able to make one for myself!

John
 
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