Pool Tank Brewpot Mod

[jmiz]

I found this gigantic tank on the side of the road among a trash pile of pool related stuff, and couldn't help but think it would make a fantastic brewpot. The thing is stainless steel and very heavy, and seems to be better quality than any pot I could afford for sure. I cleaned the hell out of the inside with soap and steel wool, despite the fact that the inside was exceptionally clean to be with. I took off this plumbing assembly on the side and there are now two 1 1/4 inch holes in the side ten inches from the bottom and 3 inches apart. The pot itself is 20 inches tall and 14 inches in diameter, and I am just ballpark guessing that its about 15 gallons if you filled it up.

I have some questions which will strongly influence whether or not I even attempt to do anything with this thing:

1. Is there possibly a significant difference between the kind of steel this is made of as intended for pool use than the type that would be used for food?

2. Even after cleaning the hell out of it with steel wool, do I risk there still being traces of chlorine or other chemicals from it's original use? If so, how do I get rid of them, sterilize the thing, or can I maybe have it refinished with a food grade metal on the inside?

3. What do I do with those two 1 1/4 inch holes? I was thinking either closing them up somehow and just making it a straight up pot or maybe taking advantage of it by putting a spigot or hosing assembly on there. If I were to close them up, how would I do so and have it heat and rust proof? Any clever ideas?

4. Am I crazy for bringing this thing into my life?

I would really appreciate any helpful tips, advice, or guidance from DIY people. Thanks!!!

 

[ReeseAllen]

Good find! What's the height and diameter?

One thing to watch out for: if you're going to have any welding done on it, make sure the welder is acquainted with proper stainless welding techniques. I've seen some photos of kettles with welded-in bulkheads where the welder didn't back-gas during the weld, and it ain't a pretty sight.

 

[jmiz]

As I mentioned in the post it's about 20 inches tall and 14 inches wide, and I would guess it's somewhere around 15 gallons. I gotta admit that I don't really know anything about welding nor do I know anybody that welds professionally. I was thinking more along the lines of some kind of airtight screw on assembly to either take advantage of the holes or plug them up completely. I live in a modest apartment in NYC, welding is a bit above my capability.

 

[okgasdude]

Figured out that she will hold about 13.2 gallons of liquid. If its stainless, I don't think you have anything to worry about except closing those holes. If you know anything about soldering, there is a whole thread on soldering stainless. That's my suggestion. Nice find by the way!

 

[BrewBeemer]

Figured out that she will hold about 13.2 gallons of liquid.

If filled to the brim yes 13.2 gallons but not realistic, I would allow a lower liquid level of 3" below the rim as a practical working volume of 11.3 gallons.
As said above a good find i'd of jumped on it myself.
On the holes my thinking is to cut out same gauge SS discs then finish for a tight fit then install flush and weld.
This would allow for a fresh start on a clean pot.
Pool chlorine is harmless and evaportes, I wouldn't of used steel wool just washed it out.

 

[jmiz]

Thank you all for your posts, glad to hear I am not a nut case for picking this up. Beemer, thanks for quelling my fears about chlorine, good to know.

Honestly, I am brewing small batches, so the difference between 11 and 13 gallons at this stage is an afterthought. As I mentioned I really think welding is out of my league, and I don't know what a SS disc is either. I actually have some soldering experience but thought that might be not good solution since solder is heat sensitive. I thought it might come undone while heating up the pot. If I were to solder, what exactly would I be soldering on to the pot? Can you get like stainless steel plating or something at home depot? If so, how do I know what gauge to use? How do I keep it water tight?

 

[gromitdj]

There are a few people around that have used these in their systems. A quick search turned up the following thread, and I'm sure there are more out there.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-electric-home-brewery-build-101784/

 

[BrewBeemer]

I would guess it's most likely 304 stainless of 16 or 18 gauge thickness (.062" or .050"). The disc would be material cut and fitted out of stainless to fill in the holes, a snug fit for a better Tig weld repair. Have it ready for the welder vs his labor fitting discs or plugs for the holes is way cheaper on your wallet.
Build with future plans of expanding like able to handle double you think you'll need in capacity. Better to build a rig once than be limited needing a second build costing you more money and time. This is why I sold my first keggle brewing system going larger. JMO's.

 

[klyph]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4452K146
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=95

2 of each of those should plug the holes. Threaded water heater elements should also fit, but it's not optimal to have the elements at the top of the vessel.

 

[o2nut]

Might want to look at repassivating the tank after you have cleaned it with steel wool. When you use steel wool it will actually leave small particles of steel into the stainless and cause it to rust. If you do get it welded wait until you have all the work done on it and then repassivate it. It is still a great find.

 

[jmiz]

How does one repassivate steel? I have actually cleaned most of my stainless pots with steel wool and I have noticed little bits of rust in the grain of the metal. This sounds like a useful thing to know.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

How does one repassivate steel? I have actually cleaned most of my stainless pots with steel wool and I have noticed little bits of rust in the grain of the metal. This sounds like a useful thing to know.

Oxalic Acid. Available in your grocer as Bar Keeper Friend. Clean and then let sit exposed to air.

 

[camiller]

How does one repassivate steel? I have actually cleaned most of my stainless pots with steel wool and I have noticed little bits of rust in the grain of the metal. This sounds like a useful thing to know.

1. Use a non-metallic scrubby and some Bar Keepers Friend (Oxalic acid) to scrub out the rust. The Oxalic acid will help re-passivate.

2. Never use steel wool on stainless again, EVER!

Edit: Gila types faster than me.

 

[HIM_Tattoos]

I'd say piece together some weldless fittings for those holes and run a HERMS coil inside.

 

[ScubaSteve]

+1. Those holes are placed nicely....search for "ditches". P.S. I hate you.

 

[mmurray]

1. Use a non-metallic scrubby and some Bar Keepers Friend (Oxalic acid) to scrub out the rust. The Oxalic acid will help re-passivate.

2. Never use steel wool on stainless again, EVER!

Edit: Gila types faster than me.

Good info there!!! I knew about having small metal particles embedding in Stainless, but didn't know how to stop it after the fact! Thanks!!!

So just put water in the pot and scurb it down with barkeepers friend or should I make more of a paste out of it and coat all sides? What's the best way?

 

[camiller]

Good info there!!! I knew about having small metal particles embedding in Stainless, but didn't know how to stop it after the fact! Thanks!!!

So just put water in the pot and scurb it down with barkeepers friend or should I make more of a paste out of it and coat all sides? What's the best way?

I usually sprinkle on some BKF and dribble a little water on to make a thick paste, then scrub.

 

[mmurray]

Cool Thanks!

 

[o2nut]

Klaude mentions another way to re-passivate stainless steel in another thread. Klaude mentions that BKF isn't a great way to re-passivate stainless. So if BKF doesn't work you could try this.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/weld-quality-ss-kegs-202296/index2.html

 

[BrewBeemer]

It's a shame that (welder?) person a "there I fixed it" person did this to brand new kegs bad enough doing that to some badly beat up old kegs.
On pacifying the stainless for years i've been using 200 to 300 grain concentrated vingar for the canneries, a friend has a tanker delivery business.
With 304 stainless this vingar will etch into it, 308 grade tanks are required to stop the etching.

 

[jmiz]

Ditches? Why do you hate me?

 

[mmurray]

Klaude mentions another way to re-passivate stainless steel in another thread. Klaude mentions that BKF isn't a great way to re-passivate stainless. So if BKF doesn't work you could try this.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/weld-quality-ss-kegs-202296/index2.html

Good Read! Feel sorry for the guy getting those kegs!

But... Where can I buy Citric and Ascorbic Acid?

 

[DKershner]

Ditches? Why do you hate me?

He hates you because he wants it for himself.

DITCHES is a type of brew system. I use it. You can look in my sig for an example. It is basically a Dual HERMS.

He mentioned it because the holes in your pot could be used as an inlet and an outlet for a coil instead of plugging them up.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yup; it's nothing personal