^ What did you use to prime your beer?
^ Any more pictures of the strainer in use?
I just stopped by Northern Brewer and bought the ingredients for this. Can't wait. Trying 15mL hopshot for the 90 minute addition. Cost $56.96 according to Beersmith.
I bought 1lb hops so like $30 for me. Curious on the hopshot. When you brewing?
What I mean is the entire recipe was $56.96... Grain, hops, hopshot, and yeast. If the whole recipe was $30 then kudos. Buying bulk grain and hops definitely had its benefit. Hopshot was $9 for the 3 syringes. Looks like brew day is Saturday. I'm tethered to the outside (nat gas) and it's the only day without rain in the forecast.
I've used hop shots in other beers and they worked well. You don't have the high amounts of vegetal matter so it's a little easier to handle/better yield with less loss to trub. I think they are rather well priced now that everyone is carrying them.
I've used hop shots in other beers and they worked well. You don't have the high amounts of vegetal matter so it's a little easier to handle/better yield with less loss to trub. I think they are rather well priced now that everyone is carrying them.
To gelatin or not, that is the question. What does everyone else do with this recipe? I'm kegging next week. First dry hop was 3 days ago. I don't want to lose the hop aroma and am thinking no, but I've read that Vinnie does so it seems true to recipe.
Side note - I'll be at the brewery in 2 weeks and planned on bringing home a few bottles for side by side comparison. Can't wait!
Each has their pluses and minuses IMHO. I love the fact that I have fewer hops, soaking up less eventual beer with the hop shot. However the hop shot is a sticky mess and makes cleanup a bit more work as it sticks to the boil kettle pretty good. I use the cans and syringes off Amazon so it results in about two brews for < 30 bucks, when doing a big IIPA like PtE clones. When doing a beer this big in hops, using CO2 extracted alpha acids is the way to go! They also have varietal hop shots now that I would like to try as later additions, though not sure how well that will work. Anyone tried 'em yet?
Just bottled this beer.
After i removed the dryhop bag it used to have this amazing centennial driven floral and fruity smell. Then i closed the fermenter and bottled it only 3 days later.
During bottling that beautiful smell disappeared and it developed an agressive but one dimensional citraish lemon smell. Will the floral stuff come back after bottle conditioning?
give it about 3 or 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp its amazing how your beer developes in this time its like the aroma and flavour just comes out of nowhere, its such a mistake drinking your beers to early i learned the hard way.
give it about 3 or 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp its amazing how your beer developes in this time its like the aroma and flavour just comes out of nowhere, its such a mistake drinking your beers to early i learned the hard way.
I would have bottled when I removed the hop bag because you can lose the delicate aromas of hops pretty easily. With that said, I don't think you damaged the beer per se. Most beers have a sweet spot for drinking when everything comes together. Keep tasting it to find out where that is for your process and this beer.
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Just bottled this beer.
After i removed the dryhop bag it used to have this amazing centennial driven floral and fruity smell. Then i closed the fermenter and bottled it only 3 days later.
During bottling that beautiful smell disappeared and it developed an agressive but one dimensional citraish lemon smell. Will the floral stuff come back after bottle conditioning?
I made the mistake of dumping the first round of dryhops in immediately after pitching the yeast, rather than waiting until fermentation was over...
This is my first foray into dryhopping, so I was wondering whether the impact (especially in such an overwhelmingly hoppy beer) would be big enough to require a 'corrective' dryhopping after fermentation and before doing the second dryhop. Thoughts?
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