Double IPA Pliny the Elder Clone

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Have to post. Hop bomb strainer for my TIPAs, such as Pliny the Younger

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Worked as intended. Test boil last night showed bubbles are getting caught at bottom so sliced a few holes. This was 150 mesh. Maybe 60 would work better. Inside the strainer never got above 200f when outside was boiling. So courser mesh and will invest in a bigger pot for next time. Start, end, removal pictures. 13oz hops total here.

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Get a hop spider and be done with it. Same idea already commercially available and better/easier to use in my opinion.


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Clean up was easy. After dumping hops. Took out mesh and sprayed clean with garden hose. Total cost $40. For the price of a spider, i can have 2 with different mesh sizes.
 
$35.95 at more beer. Not attacking you, just letting others know if they have not heard. I just throw out the mesh bags with hops when I am finished so there is no clean up there. Bags range from 4-8 dollars depending on the scale you are brewing. Whatever works and keeps you happy is what I say.


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I just stopped by Northern Brewer and bought the ingredients for this. Can't wait. Trying 15mL hopshot for the 90 minute addition. Cost $56.96 according to Beersmith.
 
I've used hop shots in other beers and they worked well. You don't have the high amounts of vegetal matter so it's a little easier to handle/better yield with less loss to trub. I think they are rather well priced now that everyone is carrying them.
 
PianoMan said:
I bought 1lb hops so like $30 for me. Curious on the hopshot. When you brewing?
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What I mean is the entire recipe was $56.96... Grain, hops, hopshot, and yeast. If the whole recipe was $30 then kudos. Buying bulk grain and hops definitely had its benefit. Hopshot was $9 for the 3 syringes. Looks like brew day is Saturday. I'm tethered to the outside (nat gas) and it's the only day without rain in the forecast.
 
D-Train said:
What I mean is the entire recipe was $56.96... Grain, hops, hopshot, and yeast. If the whole recipe was $30 then kudos. Buying bulk grain and hops definitely had its benefit. Hopshot was $9 for the 3 syringes. Looks like brew day is Saturday. I'm tethered to the outside (nat gas) and it's the only day without rain in the forecast.
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Ya, recalculated. Closer to 40. Lawnmowers are about 22. No matter making your own is $$$ in your pocket. Best wishes.
 
brewski09 said:
I've used hop shots in other beers and they worked well. You don't have the high amounts of vegetal matter so it's a little easier to handle/better yield with less loss to trub. I think they are rather well priced now that everyone is carrying them.
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You've sparked my interest. Thanks!
 
I just removed the first dryhop addition from the fermenter and it already smells awesome.
I used cent/citra/amarillo instead of ctz and now i am not even sure that i want ctz.
Do i rob myself of the Pliny experience if i just bottle it now instead of adding some ctz as the second dryhop addition?
 
brewski09 said:
I've used hop shots in other beers and they worked well. You don't have the high amounts of vegetal matter so it's a little easier to handle/better yield with less loss to trub. I think they are rather well priced now that everyone is carrying them.
Click to expand...

Each has their pluses and minuses IMHO. I love the fact that I have fewer hops, soaking up less eventual beer with the hop shot. However the hop shot is a sticky mess and makes cleanup a bit more work as it sticks to the boil kettle pretty good. I use the cans and syringes off Amazon so it results in about two brews for < 30 bucks, when doing a big IIPA like PtE clones. When doing a beer this big in hops, using CO2 extracted alpha acids is the way to go! They also have varietal hop shots now that I would like to try as later additions, though not sure how well that will work. Anyone tried 'em yet?
 
To gelatin or not, that is the question. What does everyone else do with this recipe? I'm kegging next week. First dry hop was 3 days ago. I don't want to lose the hop aroma and am thinking no, but I've read that Vinnie does so it seems true to recipe.

Side note - I'll be at the brewery in 2 weeks and planned on bringing home a few bottles for side by side comparison. Can't wait!
 
D-Train said:
To gelatin or not, that is the question. What does everyone else do with this recipe? I'm kegging next week. First dry hop was 3 days ago. I don't want to lose the hop aroma and am thinking no, but I've read that Vinnie does so it seems true to recipe.

Side note - I'll be at the brewery in 2 weeks and planned on bringing home a few bottles for side by side comparison. Can't wait!
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I don't have the capability to gelatin. Simply bottled. O2 exposure also. Was the top tasting beer I've made in any case. Be curious on your results.
 
stonebrewer said:
Each has their pluses and minuses IMHO. I love the fact that I have fewer hops, soaking up less eventual beer with the hop shot. However the hop shot is a sticky mess and makes cleanup a bit more work as it sticks to the boil kettle pretty good. I use the cans and syringes off Amazon so it results in about two brews for < 30 bucks, when doing a big IIPA like PtE clones. When doing a beer this big in hops, using CO2 extracted alpha acids is the way to go! They also have varietal hop shots now that I would like to try as later additions, though not sure how well that will work. Anyone tried 'em yet?
Click to expand...


I wanted to use the Amarillo and use it like dryhops. I wonder what that would rate like. I'm thinking really good.


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Just bottled this beer.

After i removed the dryhop bag it used to have this amazing centennial driven floral and fruity smell. Then i closed the fermenter and bottled it only 3 days later.
During bottling that beautiful smell disappeared and it developed an agressive but one dimensional citraish lemon smell. Will the floral stuff come back after bottle conditioning?
 
The_Glue said:
Just bottled this beer.

After i removed the dryhop bag it used to have this amazing centennial driven floral and fruity smell. Then i closed the fermenter and bottled it only 3 days later.
During bottling that beautiful smell disappeared and it developed an agressive but one dimensional citraish lemon smell. Will the floral stuff come back after bottle conditioning?
Click to expand...

give it about 3 or 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp its amazing how your beer developes in this time its like the aroma and flavour just comes out of nowhere, its such a mistake drinking your beers to early i learned the hard way.
 
irishrover32 said:
give it about 3 or 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp its amazing how your beer developes in this time its like the aroma and flavour just comes out of nowhere, its such a mistake drinking your beers to early i learned the hard way.
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+1. Been close to throwing out beers, but decided to give a few weeks. Makes all the difference man.
 
irishrover32 said:
give it about 3 or 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp its amazing how your beer developes in this time its like the aroma and flavour just comes out of nowhere, its such a mistake drinking your beers to early i learned the hard way.
Click to expand...

Cool!
Is this development happens too when you keg your beer?
Because this beer tasted and smelled flawless in the primary (which only happens since i improved my fermentations) then it changed at bottling day (in a timespan of 3-4 days)
I wonder if it would have been different if i would kegged or bottled it right away when i removed the hopbag.
Maybe i oxidized it when i removed the hopbag? I had some drops fall back into the beer from the hopbag upon removing.
 
I would have bottled when I removed the hop bag because you can lose the delicate aromas of hops pretty easily. With that said, I don't think you damaged the beer per se. Most beers have a sweet spot for drinking when everything comes together. Keep tasting it to find out where that is for your process and this beer.


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brewski09 said:
I would have bottled when I removed the hop bag because you can lose the delicate aromas of hops pretty easily. With that said, I don't think you damaged the beer per se. Most beers have a sweet spot for drinking when everything comes together. Keep tasting it to find out where that is for your process and this beer.


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Click to expand...

I am sure that it will be improving in the bottles during the first 3-4 weeks because i have seen it happen with all my beers, i just dont know how it could change for the worse in the primary. Maybe it was not even the beer, just a perception issue.
 
so my pliny clone was bottled on the 3-08-14 making it 9 weeks old and only now has it mellowed out, the bitterness was way too high, i missed my gravitys a fair bit so it came out at 6.5%, would this had a major effect on the bitterness?? it finished at around 1.009 aswell, it was kind of an astringent bitterness aswell where would that of came from, if i was to rebrew this id be way more careful, my main cock up was not adding the sugar before the boil which F'ed up my gravity readings. but anyway iv got to say the flavour and aroma are just bursting out of this they are amazing im stunned and so was everyone in my club its an amazing recipe, i did make a few changes tho, on bottling day i decided to use the hops i had left to make a hop tea, i added water at 79C to 15g of simcoe, centennial and columbus and let it steep for around 20 minutes and then added it to the fermentor. i think this had a major effect as my buddy who done the same recipe had a lot less flavour, so this is a tecnique i highly recommend
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Yes, a lower gravity will make the beer more bitter. Lower gravity=higher bitterness. Also lower finished gravity will change the perception of bitterness (more residual sugars will balance the bitterness).


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I had the opportunity to try my execution of this clone side by side with a bottle of Pliny tonight. Keep in mind that I'm fairly new to brewing and maybe experience would change the results. They were close, but there are a few things I would change next time.

1. Add Amarillo to the dry/late addition hops. The real Pliny was definitely weighted more to the citrus side. The clone had more dank/pine. I've read that Pliny now includes Amarillo.
2. Use only 2 hopshots for the first addition. I used 3 hopshots and the clone was more bitter. Earlier I posted that I was using hop extract for the recipe.
3. Make it lighter in color by reducing the crystal and/or boiling for 60 mins instead of 90 and/or increasing the dextrose. I scaled up the recipe and went with 14lb 2row, 0.6lb carapils, 0.6lb crystal, 12 oz dextrose. The clone was more orange and the Pliny more yellow.
4. Switch to RO water and the additions in the chemistry primer on this site. So far I've ignored water chemistry in my brews. I have high pH, high alkalinity tap water with chlorine and I think it's limiting the full potential of my brews.

All said the above differences were not significant. With a few tweaks I don't think a blind test would pick the real Pliny. Again it could simply be my execution of the recipe. Caveat emptor.
 
The_Glue said:
Just bottled this beer.

After i removed the dryhop bag it used to have this amazing centennial driven floral and fruity smell. Then i closed the fermenter and bottled it only 3 days later.
During bottling that beautiful smell disappeared and it developed an agressive but one dimensional citraish lemon smell. Will the floral stuff come back after bottle conditioning?
Click to expand...

So it seems like the centennial returned and everything tastes awesome at week 3 but i think i can already taste something cardboardish in the background. I had several months with my previous IPAs until oxidation kicked in.
This was the first time i used a hopbag for dryhopping. Maybe that caused the oxidation? (i dryhopped it only once btw to avoid oxidation)
 
I've had oxidation once from dry hopping and vowed never to let that happen again. Now I mainly dry hop in a co2 filled keg.


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I made the mistake of dumping the first round of dryhops in immediately after pitching the yeast, rather than waiting until fermentation was over...

This is my first foray into dryhopping, so I was wondering whether the impact (especially in such an overwhelmingly hoppy beer) would be big enough to require a 'corrective' dryhopping after fermentation and before doing the second dryhop. Thoughts?
 
I've experimented with dryhopping towards the end of active fermentation as it is supposed to change the hop characteristics but not at the beginning. Since it doesn't add bitterness when you dryhop I'd smell the sample when the first dryhop is complete and see if you thought it needed more.


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Tasted this for the first time this weekend. Awesome! I've had clones that were good, but having a fresh bottle of the original has made me want to brew it up at home.

I have read a couple of recipes online. One from BYO 2004, one form Zymurgy 2010(2014) and neither have amarillo, yet I know from the website that the current recipe does use amarillo. So I am wondering exactly what is the hop bill for their current recipe?
 
jwbeard said:
I made the mistake of dumping the first round of dryhops in immediately after pitching the yeast, rather than waiting until fermentation was over...

This is my first foray into dryhopping, so I was wondering whether the impact (especially in such an overwhelmingly hoppy beer) would be big enough to require a 'corrective' dryhopping after fermentation and before doing the second dryhop. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I have heard that you dry hopped too early if you walked into the room your fermenter is in and it smells like hops. I would bet the same happened with your batch.
I would dry hop again personally.
 
One thing I see alot of guys totally discount..how about using a hop shot at 90 like the northern brewers kit I just purchased
 
I'm still a newbie, only 6-7 batches of extract brewing under my belt. I purchased the Pliney extract kit from MoreBeer. Airlock activity had stopped, never had much(I use a 6.5 gallon bucket), and wanted to see how things were going after 12 days in primary. I opened it up and I could still see the yeast working their magic. At that point I was unsure to test or just out the lid back on and ignore it for a few more days. Well I decided to test it and it was at 1.020 which gave me an abv of 8%. With the beer at its target FG, this is where I was torn as to what to do. Do I let it sit in primary longer or transfer it now so I don't expose it to oxygen again a few days later. I decided to transfer it and within minutes of sealing it up, the airlock was going. What would other people have done here?

Also tried the sample from the hydrometer, wow! Best beer I have made to date. Uncarbonated, unfinished, and not dry hopped and it tasted amazing.
 
Put it in the secondary..i hit my secondary with a little co2 to help with the oxidation problem..then dry hop the hell out of it like any pliney clone does..enjoy
 

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