Pin Lock vs Ball Lock

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wilceaser

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With used ball lock kegs becoming scarcer ( i.e. more money) are there any disadvantages/advantages of ball locks over pin locks?
I know there is size difference but are there any other outstanding issues??
 
No. Essentially ball lock and pinlock availability is leveling out. The argument for ball locks has always been that they are more readily available if you want to augment your collection. It's becoming less the case. My advice is to buy 3x the number of kegs you think you need and buy the style that is either cheapest or best fits your cooling chamber.
 
I use standard compressed air quick-disconnects on my CO2 distribution manifold. Then I can use 'jump' lines with a keg connect on one end, and a standard air-tool connector on the other end (and a check valve/shutoff in the middle). This way, I can swap out lines and kegs for easy interchangeability.

I can also use a small paintball tank with a regulator and a compressed-air quickconnect for easy portability of any of my kegs.
 
I use both and they work fine but the biggest difference i see, pin lock couplers are dummy proof where there could be a little confusion initially with the ball lock. And most importantly (IMO) they differ in size. i dont have the exact dimensions but pin lock are shorter and a bit chubbier where ball locks are a bit taller and not so chubby. This would definitely come into play when you decide purchase a freezer or kegerator.

and +1 for Bobby M on his advice to pick up some spare kegs. I started with 2 and now have 7!
 
I agree with what everyone has said. The only thing I have to add is that I would stick with either all ball locks or all pin locks if you can. This way you don't need to change your quick-disconnects.
 
I have 8 ball lock kegs. With 6 or more plastic fermentors, I have room in the basement for 70 gallons or so.

I can't imagine why I would need more storage but I need to think about this. I do like heavier beers that take longer to condition so my pipeline needs to be fairly big.
 
I agree with what everyone has said. The only thing I have to add is that I would stick with either all ball locks or all pin locks if you can. This way you don't need to change your quick-disconnects.

I have both and use the self sealing MFL disconnects. Keep a few extra and just swap them out.
 
i use both pin lock and ball locks. I just make sure when i buy connectors that i buy the mfl and not the barb type. Then with the mfl connectors on the end of my gas and tap lines its an easy switch to the proper connector. I also am making a couple beer lines with mfls on each end to move beer from keg to keg (black fittings on either end) This will come in handy as i am brewing a few things now that i want to age in cornys and then i can move them into a serving keg while the keg is sitting in my keezer. Eliminate the lifting.

Mike in Duluth
 
Thanks for all the great info, right now I have just 2 ball locks but I can get a crap load of pin locks for not too much $. So I think I'll take the advice and go with the MFL connectors on my beer lines so I can change between keg styles easily.
 
can anyone post pictures of both types? i have one keg but i really don't know what kind it is. i bought it to make my wort chiller but would like to start kegging soon.
 
can anyone post pictures of both types? i have one keg but i really don't know what kind it is. i bought it to make my wort chiller but would like to start kegging soon.

Pin lock has little pins on the in and out posts - One has 2 pins and the other has 3 pins. Think Frankenstein's neck :D

Ball lock doesn't have pins sticking out of the posts.

Ball locks are (Generally) about 8.5" in diameter and 25" tall, and pin locks are a little over 9" in diameter and 22 to 23" tall.
I say generally, because there are a ton of varieties of both styles, and they all vary a little in size.

These are "Ball Lock" kegs:
DSC_5814.JPG
 
I have pin locks and personally like them better than ball lock. There is no way that you could put to wrong disconect on. The only problem is that you almost have to have a special socket to get the posts off. You can use an adjustable but it pain in the ass and I have actually started to round off the posts over time doing that.
 
Is $85 including shipping for two pin lock corny kegs a good deal? I'm thinking of making the jump to kegging and if I find a good deal I know I can pull the trigger and validate spending a lot of money.
 
Is $85 including shipping for two pin lock corny kegs a good deal? I'm thinking of making the jump to kegging and if I find a good deal I know I can pull the trigger and validate spending a lot of money.

I saw today that cornykeg.com has a four pack of pin lock kegs for $86. 95 plus shipping - I haven't ordered anything from them, so I can't tell you how good they are.
 
The 3 pin lock kegs I have do not have pressure relief valves, which someone said makes them dangerous if they are attached to a co2 tank ..I have other ball lock as well

the pin lock work fine !
 
kappclark said:
The 3 pin lock kegs I have do not have pressure relief valves, which someone said makes them dangerous if they are attached to a co2 tank ..I have other ball lock as well

the pin lock work fine !

Unless your pressure regulator decided to bite the dust and dump the CO2 completely unregulated, pin locks are fine as they are rated to about 120PSI I believe. Even then its more likely one of the gas or liquid lines would rupture, resulting in a mess but not an exploding keg.
 
The 3 pin lock kegs I have do not have pressure relief valves, which someone said makes them dangerous if they are attached to a co2 tank ..I have other ball lock as well

the pin lock work fine !

Are you sure they don't have hansen style valves common to pinlock kegs? They look like a bump in the lid with 3 holes in the top. They're a safety pressure relief that only activates if the pressure gets too high, and are not manually operable. Here's a pic-

tn2_hansenlid040511100855.jpg


Even if they don't have any valve, I wouldn't worry about it for the reasons mentioned above.
 
the first 3 pin locks i bought don't have any safety valves on them either, for what it's worth
 
Are you sure they don't have hansen style valves common to pinlock kegs? They look like a bump in the lid with 3 holes in the top. They're a safety pressure relief that only activates if the pressure gets too high, and are not manually operable. Here's a pic-

tn2_hansenlid040511100855.jpg


Even if they don't have any valve, I wouldn't worry about it for the reasons mentioned above.

Thx for pic..
No Hansen valve...I agree on safety issue...if she blows, it is going to be a mess either way ..but maybe the gas line will go first...

I'll roll the dice:cross:

When racking, I am used to using the relief valve to purge O2, so with Pinlock, I use a wooden dowel on the gas side (and I always forget ther eis no valve)
 
I have 3 pinlocks in my stable of 10, that I've swapped the posts (from corneykeg) to make them ball locks. Their conversion kit works great. Allows me to put 3 kegs in my kegerator, as opposed to only two. Since the pinlock is shorter, it fits under the "bump" in the back of my kegerator.
 
Thx for pic..
No Hansen valve...I agree on safety issue...if she blows, it is going to be a mess either way ..but maybe the gas line will go first...

I'll roll the dice:cross:

When racking, I am used to using the relief valve to purge O2, so with Pinlock, I use a wooden dowel on the gas side (and I always forget ther eis no valve)

I use this
PINLOCK_PLUG_DEPRESSER_thumb.jpg


http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=484
 
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