Why would SS brewtech tell you to passivate with Starsan if it doesn't work???? You're not using the standard sanitizing ratio. . Their recommended ratio is a more acidic solution. I've passivated several vessels this way with no issues.
Passivation - fill the entire kettle?
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Bilsch
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My bet is they got starsan mixed up with another 5Star product called Acid Cleaner #5 which will passivate because it contains nitric acid.
Unfortunately products containing phosphoric acid do not remove iron from the matrix. They just chemically aren’t capable of doing it so starsan absolutely will not work period, no way, not gonna happen, not even a little bit. Best you let that go from your head. It’s bad info.
Unfortunately products containing phosphoric acid do not remove iron from the matrix. They just chemically aren’t capable of doing it so starsan absolutely will not work period, no way, not gonna happen, not even a little bit. Best you let that go from your head. It’s bad info.
I think the better path forward is to ask SSbrewtech to provide you with that answer. As them for a specific reference that says phosphoric acid will passivate.
So quick follow up. After reading lots here I determined that it's probably not needed to passivate my new SS Brewtech brew bucket, but also that it couldn't hurt. So I went for it.
I saved a bit of money by filling old milk jugs and pop bottles with water, but leaving a little air, so that they floated. This reduced how much acid solution I needed. Thanks for the tip! (NOTE: using an old cork to close a 2L pop bottle, filled with cold water.. then apply heat to 80c.. wasn't very smart. POP boom! almost hit my head!!).
After deep cleaning my old kettle and new fermenter with TSP and a soft cloth, I heated some water to 80c, added my citric acid to make a 4% solution, and did a 2 hour soak. Then put it back in the kettle, re-heated, and soaked again. Let them dry, and placed in the open air for a full day to let the oxygen get at it. Also, while doing dishes I noticed a rust spot on an old stainless kitchen bowl, so I scrubbed it well, and tossed it in to.. just in case it helps
I can't honestly say I see any visual difference. But on close inspection of the new fermenter, I see some machining chuff marks (very light). Also, some small pitting around where the external handles were welded on... some how it impacted the inside of the fermenter. So, I felt better about having done the passivation process, as at the least, it may add an oxide later to give some protection.
FWIW, my water did turn a /little/ yellow/orange. Not as much as I saw in pictures, but it was there. So it perhaps took out some iron for me.
I saved a bit of money by filling old milk jugs and pop bottles with water, but leaving a little air, so that they floated. This reduced how much acid solution I needed. Thanks for the tip! (NOTE: using an old cork to close a 2L pop bottle, filled with cold water.. then apply heat to 80c.. wasn't very smart. POP boom! almost hit my head!!).
After deep cleaning my old kettle and new fermenter with TSP and a soft cloth, I heated some water to 80c, added my citric acid to make a 4% solution, and did a 2 hour soak. Then put it back in the kettle, re-heated, and soaked again. Let them dry, and placed in the open air for a full day to let the oxygen get at it. Also, while doing dishes I noticed a rust spot on an old stainless kitchen bowl, so I scrubbed it well, and tossed it in to.. just in case it helps
I can't honestly say I see any visual difference. But on close inspection of the new fermenter, I see some machining chuff marks (very light). Also, some small pitting around where the external handles were welded on... some how it impacted the inside of the fermenter. So, I felt better about having done the passivation process, as at the least, it may add an oxide later to give some protection.
FWIW, my water did turn a /little/ yellow/orange. Not as much as I saw in pictures, but it was there. So it perhaps took out some iron for me.
Bilsch
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Nice, you made some ferric citrate.
Nice progress! You really don't know what they (the manufacturer) used to work on the surface. Maybe they gave it a good scrubbing with steel wool. That would certainly leave iron behind.
Regarding phosphoric acid: I think some rust converters contain it. You can also phosphatize steel as an anti-corrosion base layer for another coating. I don't think it would work on stainless though.
Regarding phosphoric acid: I think some rust converters contain it. You can also phosphatize steel as an anti-corrosion base layer for another coating. I don't think it would work on stainless though.
