Outlet Question

[Squeeky]

I've almost completed my purchases for the new automated brewery. I had one question though. I will be using female twist locks on the CP side (I realize that a female in not preferred on power in) and male twist on elements.

Power IN
Cable has Hubbell 2721
Control has Hubbell 2726

Element
Cable has Hubbell 2621
Control has ??????

This is where my question is, I have located two different 30A flanged outlets. One is rated for 250V 2626F, the other is rated for 125V 2616F. I realize that the element is 220V, but is the outlet voltage rated by pole or as a whole? Can I run the elements on the 2616F as there will only be 110v sent on separate poles.

Thanks
Squeeky

 

[P-J]

I've almost completed my purchases for the new automated brewery. I had one question though. I will be using female twist locks on the CP side (I realize that a female in not preferred on power in) and male twist on elements.

Power IN
Cable has Hubbell 2721
Control has Hubbell 2726
...

Do NOT do that. You will be making a VERY serious mistake as the power cord to your panel will have the connections exposed. You are playing with your life and everyone else involved. The output end of a power cord MUST be a female connectior.!!!

Please reconsider this decision. A power cord with voltage exposed on open prongs can and will be deadly.

P-J

 

[P-J]

Ok...

Instead of doing that for the power input:
Use this for the input connector on your panel:
Hubbell HBL2625 NEMA L6-30 AC Flanged Inlet
And this for the power in cable end to your control panel:
HUBBELL HBL2623 AC Connector NEMA L6-30 Female

Please consider it a least. Please...

P-J

 

[Squeeky]

P-J,

As I understand your consideration for my life , I guess I should better explain my connection process as the male output would not be exposed. The main reason I chose the 2726 was due to already having a M/M patch cable from generator (What I currently use on E-brewery), as well as being able to disconnect the patch cable and connect an inline GFCI cable as I've wired a 2721 to one end and dryer outlet on other.

Currently I have a female twist lock GFCI outlet mounted in garage, and will use the patch cable to connect to control panel. The circuit is left closed at the breaker, while not is use. I do not flip the breaker until all cable are connected. The power cable will stay connected to the panel at all times, unless I'm switching to the inline GFCI cable.

Sorry for being so wordy, just trying to explain things. Let me know what you think P-J, as male prongs would not be exposed on the output side. It allows me to switch between GFCI outlet (wired at father-in-laws) and inline GFCI (move brewery indoor in future)

 

[P-J]

Squeeky,

My opinion? I think that using the connectors I suggested would be a far better solution than your potential choice.

You say that you have a female outlet in the garage. Fabricate a power cable with a male plug that matches that outlet and then mount the female cord-end outlet that I suggested on the end of the power cord. In the control panel - mount a male inlet receptacle.

Please think about it. When things go bad with other people watching a brew session, things can go really bad.

I spoke my mind and will get out now and leave it alone.

My friend, Please be careful.

Paul

 

[Airplanedoc]

The circuit is left closed at the breaker, while not is use. I do not flip the breaker until all cable are connected. The power cable will stay connected to the panel at all times, unless I'm switching to the inline GFCI cable.

Most of the safety rules are not necessarily to protect you the normal operator, but to protect some unknowing person who who flips the switch, trips over the cord and yanks it out etc.

Potential live male prongs are never a good idea.

 

[Squeeky]

Thanks guys I think I change my game plan. Might use the cables I have now for testing but will switch before I put it into use.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

If it's your funeral you probably don't care. If it's somebody else's funeral and you caused it - you will indeed care. Dump the idea of the male to male setup. Connectors are cheap.

Bob

 

[Squeeky]

carlisle,

you hit it right on the head, connectors are cheap, lives aren't :cross:
Time to look for outlets and new plugs on ebay

Although I will just confirm my outlet/plug combo for the element wiring is correct. (Female flanged on CP / Male plug coming from keggle)

 

[P-J]

...
Although I will just confirm my outlet/plug combo for the element wiring is correct. (Female flanged on CP / Male plug coming from keggle)

That is correct.

Paul

 

[Squeeky]

P-J,

In reference to the voltage specifications, are they rated as volts per pole, or combined voltage?

Can I run my 220v elements on one rated for 125V, since each pole is only carrying 110v?
Or would it require a 250V rated outlet

 

[P-J]

For me personally - I would use an outlet rated for 240V with the amp rating for the current that your circuit is rated for and that you need. This insures that there is no potential mishap in connecting the wrong power source to your equipment.

(The debate that I've participated in the past was for switch ratings and configuratons - not outlets.)

HTH...