O NOES! My first unsuccessful brew day.

[Coastarine]

After almost two years of brewing it finally happened. I "upgraded" my braid in my MLT last night using some parts from mcmaster carr. The offending part seems to be the expandable SS sleeving 1478T3. The wires that make up the sleeving are VERY fine and tightly braided. This was apparently the problem. It just. wouldn't. drain.

I ordered one of these to replace it 2857K15

Fingers crossed.

 

[thelastdandy]

just had my first stuck mash (and probably worst brew day) yesterday. my copper manifold stem slides into a female piece that is part of the valve. its not fastened so i can easily take it out for cleaning. while stirring my mash with my paddle i knocked the manifold off and all the grain went rushing to the valve and clogged it. i can tell you that stuck mashes make for a long day. i'll definitely be rethinking my manifold design. better luck next time.

 

[schweaty]

Ugh, I can remember my first stuck sparge but I'd rather not. I did a rye beer and must have ground the rye up to fine. What a nightmare! Ended up grabbing the paintball CO2 bottle and shooting gas in the ball valve. I ended up with a grain geyser! My wife thought that was hilarious because it was all over the sliding window. I, however, was so amused.

 

[IrregularPulse]

just had my first stuck mash (and probably worst brew day) yesterday. my copper manifold stem slides into a female piece that is part of the valve. its not fastened so i can easily take it out for cleaning. while stirring my mash with my paddle i knocked the manifold off and all the grain went rushing to the valve and clogged it. i can tell you that stuck mashes make for a long day. i'll definitely be rethinking my manifold design. better luck next time.

I keep thinking about upgrading from my SS Mesh (no problems with it yet) to a copper or CPVC manifold but this worries me. I think if I do take this route, I'll solder or glue (copper or CPVC) the manifold, then use a cotter pin to secure it to the bulk head. Still removable, but won't be able to knock it apart. Actaully just thought of the cotter pin idea while reading the post, so maybe I'll make this for my next brew day next weekend. I have some spare 1/2" copper left over from my CFC build.

 

[thelastdandy]

wow that is a really good idea. i am going to work on that right now... thanks for the idea!

 

[zanemoseley]

Or just drop the $$$ for a SS false bottom, drains like butta every time.

 

[Yooper]

Or just drop the $$$ for a SS false bottom, drains like butta every time.

Yep. Unless you hit the connector to the ballvalve with your mash paddle. Then, you have a stuck mash (and sometimes stuck sparge) like everybody else!

I love my false bottom, but it needs to connect to the ballvalve and I've never found a fool proof way yet. I try to be careful not to knock it apart, but with a step mash when you start with a very thick mash, it's not easy!

 

[Coastarine]

Or just drop the $$$ for a SS false bottom, drains like butta every time.

Well now you have me thinking...what is the general feeling on slotted false bottoms? I like the look of this pre-assembled hard plumbed deal http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainless-Steel-Domed-False-Bottom_p_185-1058.html

That looks like a way around the problem that yooper is referring to. I'll try this new braid but if I am not happy I may start from scratch.

 

[joety]

I have the Midwest 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler kit w/ stainless false bottom. In 1.5 years, I've never knocked it apart with my mash paddle. Coastarine, that thing looks like a tank, but $130 bucks for the assembly is a little crazy.

 

[Coastarine]

You mean this one, for 120? http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdByID.aspx?ProdID=4098

The cooler and the hardware are pretty reasonable at 55 and 30, it's the false bottom itself at 41$ that makes it seem like a lot. I think all together though it is a price I'd be willing to pay to avoid hunting down the various parts, going through the trial and error of making it perfect.

 

[joety]

Looks like it, but I bought the whole 10 gallon kit and caboodle for something like $220, including the MT and HLT, and sparge arm, with the stainless option for all the hardware. The only thing I don't like is the HLT warps if you put in water over 178 degrees or so. I've had to repair mine a couple of times.

 

[zanemoseley]

I've got the SS false bottom from Midwest that goes into the 10G rubbermaid coolers along with a Zymico bulkhead/valve, I put hose clamps at both ends of the tubing that connects the bulkhead with the elbow coming up from the false bottom. You'd have to hit the thing with a sledge hammer to break it loose. I also don't disassemble it after every brew, just rinse and run some clean water through the valve. I also wouldn't spend the cash on a slotted false bottom, the standard perforated ones work fine.

 

[sudbuster]

I've got the SS false bottom from Midwest that goes into the 10G rubbermaid coolers along with a Zymico bulkhead/valve, I put hose clamps at both ends of the tubing that connects the bulkhead with the elbow coming up from the false bottom. You'd have to hit the thing with a sledge hammer to break it loose. I also don't disassemble it after every brew, just rinse and run some clean water through the valve. I also wouldn't spend the cash on a slotted false bottom, the standard perforated ones work fine.

Yeah, been using the same setup for several years and never knocked it lose yet. Depending on the mash, rice hulls may be called for. but after all this time, never a stuck sparge.

 

[Coastarine]

New braid FTW!!! Drained like a dream! Faster than I ever saw from my old setup.