New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[couchsending]

I don’t understand what the motivation is to make things sweeter or thicker? It just makes the beers harder to drink more than one of and your waist line that much bigger.

A finishing gravity of 1.014-1.016 is all
You need to accomplish full, flavorful beer with the correct water profile.

And if you’re using 1318 it adds so much more sweetness at the same FG that any other yeast.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I don’t understand what the motivation is to make things sweeter or thicker? It just makes the beers harder to drink .

All you really need to understand is some people like it. Commonwealth is a wildly popular brewery in VA and their IPAs tend to be on the thicker, sweeter, heavier side. I don't know if they use a little lactose but it wouldn't surprise me. Aslin is another one that cranks out the thick/super murky IPAs and people can't get enough. It's not always my thing but I do like to get their beers sometimes and see what they're up to.

 

[Dgallo]

I don’t understand what the motivation is to make things sweeter or thicker? It just makes the beers harder to drink more than one of and your waste line that much bigger.

A finishing gravity of 1.014-1.016 is all
You need to accomplish full, flavorful beer with the correct water profile.

And if you’re using 1318 it adds so much more sweetness at the same FG that any other yeast.

Just trying something different and modelled after two respected breweries, Other half and equilibrium. I already have a NE Recipe I’m happy with and serves me well. Wanted to take a stab at an oat cream version of a NE. I am one of those people that like some variations in my NE’s other than simply switching my hops

 

[SRJHops]

That’s a whole lot of trub making it in your fermenter, brother

I was actually thinking about trub on the way to work today, in reference to ttuato's excellent post about reducing oxidation and getting clear wort into the fermenter.

My fermenter tends to look a bit like Genuine's. I have not experienced oxidation or vegetal flavor issues from trub, so I haven't been overly worried about getting a fair amount into the fermenter.

But today I was wondering if the trub is scrubbing out some hop oil when it drops? Or somehow muting the flavor of my NEIPA? (My NEIPA actually tastes pretty good, I think, but I am still chasing the HUGE hop flavor explosion of the best of the best.)

On the one hand, I think the brulosophy trub experiments suggest that trub doesn't really affect flavor and can actually help with fermentation. On the other hand, those experiments suggest that trub can make the beer drop more clear. So, if we are making NEIPAs, perhaps the trub-dropping is also scrubbing out some hop oil? On the other hand, if we cold crash a NEIPA, aren't we scrubbing out some hop oils too?

So, I'm kinda on the fence... Do whatever I can to transfer clear wort to the fermenter, or don't worry too much about it. I'd be interested in your thoughts...

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/

 

[JohnConnor]

I missed this



can someone point me to the details?

Post #8288

 

[AnttiLeh]

Bottled my NEIPA last sunday. Had to leave worktrip so "only" 10 day fermentation and 3,5day cold crash -> strait to bottle
with sugar pills. When i opened the fermbucket i got hit by massive amount of sparkling orange, citrus and flowers, at that point I started to fall in love with NEIPAs.

There was so much hop and yeast debrii that we couldnt get FG. We bottled its fast and forgot to get decent amount of beer
to class for photo. Few drops with hop debrii in the photo, tasted good even then and now just waiting for Easter to pop first one.

Totally 255grams of hops and we got about 16liters of NEIPA.

 

[Dgallo]

I was actually thinking about trub on the way to work today, in reference to ttuato's excellent post about reducing oxidation and getting clear wort into the fermenter.

My fermenter tends to look a bit like Genuine's. I have not experienced oxidation or vegetal flavor issues from trub, so I haven't been overly worried about getting a fair amount into the fermenter.

But today I was wondering if the trub is scrubbing out some hop oil when it drops? Or somehow muting the flavor of my NEIPA? (My NEIPA actually tastes pretty good, I think, but I am still chasing the HUGE hop flavor explosion of the best of the best.)

On the one hand, I think the brulosophy trub experiments suggest that trub doesn't really affect flavor and can actually help with fermentation. On the other hand, those experiments suggest that trub can make the beer drop more clear. So, if we are making NEIPAs, perhaps the trub-dropping is also scrubbing out some hop oil? On the other hand, if we cold crash a NEIPA, aren't we scrubbing out some hop oils too?

So, I'm kinda on the fence... Do whatever I can to transfer clear wort to the fermenter, or don't worry too much about it. I'd be interested in your thoughts...

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/

I usually take brulosophy with a grain of salt, most of the degrade will happen overtime and he typically does an early side by side right after they’re kegged.

I used to not care thinking it had no impact but since I switch to clear wort, or clearest I can do, my longevity and quality have increased

You're right the yeast will strip hop compounds when cold crashing. That is why folks are soft crashing to drop yeast prior to dryhoping

 

[couchsending]

All you really need to understand is some people like it. Commonwealth is a wildly popular brewery in VA and their IPAs tend to be on the thicker, sweeter, heavier side. I don't know if they use a little lactose but it wouldn't surprise me. Aslin is another one that cranks out the thick/super murky IPAs and people can't get enough. It's not always my thing but I do like to get their beers sometimes and see what they're up to.

But if you removed the IG induced FOMO would they actually like it?

“I can only drink one of these cause it’s so sweet and heavy and burns my throat ibut man it smells like guava” 4.5/5

 

[VirginiaHops1]

But if you removed the IG induced FOMO would they actually like it?

“I can only drink one of these cause it’s so sweet and heavy and burns my throat ibut man it smells like guava” 4.5/5

Why do you assume that because someone likes something you don't that they're sheep and aren't thinking for themselves? Seems like an extremely arrogant way to live to me

 

[SRJHops]

I usually take brulosophy with a grain of salt, most of the degrade will happen overtime and he typically does an early side by side right after they’re kegged.

I used to not care thinking it had no impact but since I switch to clear wort, or clearest I can do, my longevity and quality have increased

You're right the yeast will strip hop compounds when cold crashing. That is why folks are soft crashing to drop yeast prior to dryhoping

Does improved quality include better flavor? That is, any flavor difference in trub-ish vs clear-ish?

I do think that, assuming flavor is the same/similar, it seems to make sense to try to go clear, so to speak. But perhaps not to be super obsessed about it?

 

[Dgallo]

Does improved quality include better flavor? That is, any flavor difference in trub-ish vs clear-ish?

I do think that, assuming flavor is the same/similar, it seems to make sense to try to go clear, so to speak. But perhaps not to be super obsessed about it?

Gotta figure that out for yourself brother. Give it a shot and see what you notice. For me quality is always worth it.

 

[SRJHops]

Bottled my NEIPA last sunday. Had to leave worktrip so "only" 10 day fermentation and 3,5day cold crash -> strait to bottle
with sugar pills. When i opened the fermbucket i got hit by massive amount of sparkling orange, citrus and flowers, at that point I started to fall in love with NEIPAs.

There was so much hop and yeast debrii that we couldnt get FG. We bottled its fast and forgot to get decent amount of beer
to class for photo. Few drops with hop debrii in the photo, tasted good even then and now just waiting for Easter to pop first one.

Totally 255grams of hops and we got about 16liters of NEIPA.

Woo-hoo, another bottler! Did you get a lot of debris in ALL of the bottles? I fill the hydrometer first to get the FG and it does usually have a fair amount of hop/yeast particles. Then I fill two bombers and label them as the testers to open first to check for carbonation -- they usually have some particles too. But the rest of my bombers (I usually get about 28 for a 6-gallon batch) are usually free of debris.

I tried to make a filter for the carboy spigot (on my Big Mouth Bubbler), but it clogged. I might try something else, but I also might just be OK with the first two bottles having some hop particles. The other option is to try harder to avoid getting kettle hops into the fermenter and bagging the dry hops. I am going to work on the former, but I really don't want to bag the hops.

I'd be interested in hearing how the flavor changes over time. My latest was bottled about 4 weeks ago and it keeps getting better. If it's like my others, it will peak in the next two weeks.

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

Do you guys in the US also make use of this kind of filter bags? They seem to be very popular among homebrewers over here in Europe (or at least in Germany). Somehow I never found a mention of this kind of thing in the American forums...anyway they work great for me! I'm still doing a whirlpool, but thanks to the filter bag I can transfer most of my (clear) wort to the fermenter even for heavily hopped beers.
This bags aren't clogging , are easy to clean and sanitize/sterilize, and you can reuse them many times.

 

[Hannabrew]

Consider these that I have done - maybe one or all will help (I do all of them now). My NEIPAs stay fresh with solid aroma up to two months and I spund.

• Hop pellets have lots of crevices that hold air, try putting them in ziploc and flush with nitrogen, not co2, then seal bag and hold for a day so the niteogen can displacw rhe oxygen in crevices
  
• Use quality beverage line for transfer finished beer - not cheap vinyl or silicone. KEY: make sure worm clamps on every connection and super tight. The venturi effect is more powerful than you think and will pull in air at hose ends while transferring unless it is clamped.
  
• Dryhop once after FG and soft crash to 58. After 24hrs drop it to 32 to crash fully then transfer into keg after 24hr or less so that the bolus of dryhops green material only in contact with beer less than 48hrs. You will get 90%+ of what is acheivable in that short of time as far as the hop oils are concerned and avoid extracting the bad stuff from hops that will increase vegetal / tannic flavors
  
• For the win: Use whirlfloc and Get only clear wort into the fermentor. The fatty acids in the hot break are rhe ultimate source of oxidative material. Keep it out of the fermentor as much as possible. (I think this step made biggest difference). As an extra precaution I just started using the brewershardware wort filter when transferring.
  

I always have my DH addition vacuum sealed and usually open it seconds before I open the lid...do you see any benefit to using nitro in that scenario?

I use Bev tubing to attach to my spigot but I do suspect that not clamping that is a potential issue... especially since my NEIPA closed transfers are sloooow AF. I will give that a try...also debating adding a liquid post to the lid though I'm running out of real estate!

What exactly is your hopping strategy? No DHs until after FG and them add at soft crash temp, start full crash at 24 hours, and rack to keg ~48 hours? So 24-36 hour contact time? Any swirling? Under pressure?

I pride myself on clear wort into the fermenter so no issues there.

Lastly how are you spunding if you're not racking to the keg until well after FG? Are you just keg conditioning?

Thanks for the assist (and for the videos of your sweet DHer)

 

[SRJHops]

Do you guys in the US also make use of this kind of filter bags? They seem to be very popular among homebrewers over here in Europe (or at least in Germany). Somehow I never found a mention of this kind of thing in the American forums...anyway they work great for me! I'm still doing a whirlpool, but thanks to the filter bag I can transfer most of my (clear) wort to the fermenter even for heavily hopped beers.
This bags aren't clogging , are easy to clean and sanitize/sterilize, and you can reuse them many times.
View attachment 620490

I have used similar muslin bags for dry hopping, but that one looks better. I assume the drawstring closes the whole thing up nicely. Looks really easy to add the hops.

 

[ttuato]

I always have my DH addition vacuum sealed and usually open it seconds before I open the lid...do you see any benefit to using nitro in that scenario?

I use Bev tubing to attach to my spigot but I do suspect that not clamping that is a potential issue... especially since my NEIPA closed transfers are sloooow AF. I will give that a try...also debating adding a liquid post to the lid though I'm running out of real estate!

What exactly is your hopping strategy? No DHs until after FG and them add at soft crash temp, start full crash at 24 hours, and rack to keg ~48 hours? So 24-36 hour contact time? Any swirling? Under pressure?

I pride myself on clear wort into the fermenter so no issues there.

Lastly how are you spunding if you're not racking to the keg until well after FG? Are you just keg conditioning?

Thanks for the assist (and for the videos of your sweet DHer)

Not sure about the nitro vs vacuum seal. I only do it because all of the hop resellers (yakima, farmhouse, hop heaven, etc) purge with nitro and then vacuum

Dry hop just as you describe - under pressure. I currently use Speidel with the norcal gas/prv lid with 20lb spring shown below. Fermenter will hold about 15lbs. I spund with a few points left until FG to get natural carbonation. I release some pressure to add dryhops (that I have to supplement with force carb in keg). No swirling - usually in contact ~36 hours. I learned this process on probrewer forum, supplemented by all of the research that shows extraction of the major hop oils occur within 24hrs. --- I just ordered two Spike Flex+ but will continue the same process as it works wonderfully for me.

 

[ttuato]

I have used similar muslin bags for dry hopping, but that one looks better. I assume the drawstring closes the whole thing up nicely. Looks really easy to add the hops.

Checkout @wilserbrewer bags - he has some hop bags with drawstrings

 

[AnttiLeh]

Woo-hoo, another bottler! Did you get a lot of debris in ALL of the bottles? I fill the hydrometer first to get the FG and it does usually have a fair amount of hop/yeast particles. Then I fill two bombers and label them as the testers to open first to check for carbonation -- they usually have some particles too. But the rest of my bombers (I usually get about 28 for a 6-gallon batch) are usually free of debris.

I tried to make a filter for the carboy spigot (on my Big Mouth Bubbler), but it clogged. I might try something else, but I also might just be OK with the first two bottles having some hop particles. The other option is to try harder to avoid getting kettle hops into the fermenter and bagging the dry hops. I am going to work on the former, but I really don't want to bag the hops.

I'd be interested in hearing how the flavor changes over time. My latest was bottled about 4 weeks ago and it keeps getting better. If it's like my others, it will peak in the next two weeks.

Actually we got very clear bottles, mayby last 2-3 bottles were looking like that, 3.5 days cold crash did its job.

 

[ttuato]

I was actually thinking about trub on the way to work today, in reference to ttuato's excellent post about reducing oxidation and getting clear wort into the fermenter.

My fermenter tends to look a bit like Genuine's. I have not experienced oxidation or vegetal flavor issues from trub, so I haven't been overly worried about getting a fair amount into the fermenter.

But today I was wondering if the trub is scrubbing out some hop oil when it drops? Or somehow muting the flavor of my NEIPA? (My NEIPA actually tastes pretty good, I think, but I am still chasing the HUGE hop flavor explosion of the best of the best.)

On the one hand, I think the brulosophy trub experiments suggest that trub doesn't really affect flavor and can actually help with fermentation. On the other hand, those experiments suggest that trub can make the beer drop more clear. So, if we are making NEIPAs, perhaps the trub-dropping is also scrubbing out some hop oil? On the other hand, if we cold crash a NEIPA, aren't we scrubbing out some hop oils too?

So, I'm kinda on the fence... Do whatever I can to transfer clear wort to the fermenter, or don't worry too much about it. I'd be interested in your thoughts...

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/

Yes - trub has a fining effect on the beer. Positive / negative ions --- a bunch of chemistry stuff and research has shown this. I don't remember the papers/links but I think Janish has some stuff on it. Plus if you look at the pics on the brulosophy exbeeriment the trubby beer is noticeably clearer --- accordingly YES it is stripping hop oils from the solution just like yeast when it floccs

Another brulosophy exbeeriment to back this up is the one found here - BIAB vs No Sparge. The BIAB has a bunch of trub in the fermentor and noticed after FG it is significantly clearer than the No Sparge version. As it goes on you see more haze in the BIAB version - not sure what this is - but read on to see the author say this about the BIAB (trubby batch):
"I perceived it as being generally less characterful with notably less hop flavor, while it finished with a slightly sticky, almost cloying quality."

I cannot say for certain this perceived less hop was due to the initial trub or not but it makes you think given the fermentor pics.

Furthermore In the discussion they even noted this: On the second evaluation done more recently, I brought along my trusty wife whose prowess in baking and cooking is rivaled only by her strong dislike for beer. Her reaction was quite interesting. We performed 3 semi-blind triangle tests with the beers at keezer temperature and in each case, she was able to identify the odd-beer-out on smell alone, something I simply could not reproduce. In her words, the BIAB beer “did not have as much smell.” She also noted there was “another smell” present in the no sparge beer, which I presume might be a stronger hop character.

read more here about trub - links to the sciencey stuff are available here too if you wanna click around and read it for yourself (thanks @couchsending for flagging this to me):
http://www.********************/brewing-methods/trub-seperation-why-and-how/

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

I have used similar muslin bags for dry hopping, but that one looks better. I assume the drawstring closes the whole thing up nicely. Looks really easy to add the hops.

No you can't use these for dry hopping. They are meant to be used at racking, especially for the wort after the boil, when transferring from kettle to fermenter. But I also use them post fermentation on dry hopped beers (I dry hop loose), for transferring from fermenter to bottling bucket .
There is a steel ring on the opening, and the string isn't a drawstring, it's used to hold or fix the bag somewhere during the transfer.
I ferment in plastic buckets so this kind of bag works nicely for my setup. Of course it's difficult to use such a thing if you are fermenting in carboys.

 

[Dgallo]

But I also use them post fermentation on dry hopped beers (I dry hop loose), for transferring from fermenter to bottling bucket .
There is a steel ring on the opening, and the string isn't a drawstring, it's used to hold or fix the bag somewhere during the transfer.
I ferment in plastic buckets so this kind of bag works nicely for my setup. Of course it's difficult to use such a thing if you are fermenting in carboys.

That’s asking for oxidation issues....

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

Yeah of course I'm still very, very far from a fancy kegging + closed-transfer setup. But I believe I managed to limit oxidation somehow by keeping the yeast active throughout the process... my last IPA scored really well in a comp over here ( granted, it's not the AHA national comp you guys have over there ), so I assume it was at least not terribly oxidized.
BUT I haven't attempted a neipa yet..., that was a west coastish type IPA...

 

[cheesebach]

No you can't use these for dry hopping. They are meant to be used at racking, especially for the wort after the boil, when transferring from kettle to fermenter. But I also use them post fermentation on dry hopped beers (I dry hop loose), for transferring from fermenter to bottling bucket .
There is a steel ring on the opening, and the string isn't a drawstring, it's used to hold or fix the bag somewhere during the transfer.
I ferment in plastic buckets so this kind of bag works nicely for my setup. Of course it's difficult to use such a thing if you are fermenting in carboys.

They do sound like an interesting option for going from kettle to fermenter. What material are they made of? I assume something that can be sanitized? Or would you need to boil it or something? I wonder how something like that would avoid clogging, since the mesh on bags I’ve used to try this before seems much more coarse than the photo and those definitely clogged.

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

They do sound like an interesting option for going from kettle to fermenter. What material are they made of? I assume something that can be sanitized? Or would you need to boil it or something? I wonder how something like that would avoid clogging, since the mesh on bags I’ve used to try this before seems much more coarse than the photo and those definitely clogged.

The material is polypropylene with a mesh size of 200 micrometers.
It can stand temperatures up to at least 100 C. So, to sanitize it I either boil it or pressure cook it for a few minutes, usually together with my silicone racking cane.
IME they really don't clog that easily, maybe because they are quite large so with a big surface area.
As said I do a whirlpool and transfer maybe 90% or more of almost clear wort through the bag first. When the real trub comes, it's only for the last few liters of wort. And I'll still leave a good portion of trub back in the kettle.
Under these circumstances the bag never clogged for me.
It doesn't make a huge difference but I think it allows me to save at least a couple liters of wort each time.

 

[Taket_al_Tauro]

That’s asking for oxidation issues....

I'll also add that transferring using such a bag does not cause any more splashing or overall oxygen exposure of the beer than a "normal" transferring to a bottling bucket without using the bag.
Of course I agree that it implies way more oxygen exposure than a closed transfer to keg
One day I may feel adventurous enough to even attempt a neipa on this setup, and if the results are positive, I'll report back. Oh well, even if the beer turns brown!

 

[tld6008]

Woo-hoo, another bottler! Did you get a lot of debris in ALL of the bottles? I fill the hydrometer first to get the FG and it does usually have a fair amount of hop/yeast particles. Then I fill two bombers and label them as the testers to open first to check for carbonation -- they usually have some particles too. But the rest of my bombers (I usually get about 28 for a 6-gallon batch) are usually free of debris.

I tried to make a filter for the carboy spigot (on my Big Mouth Bubbler), but it clogged. I might try something else, but I also might just be OK with the first two bottles having some hop particles. The other option is to try harder to avoid getting kettle hops into the fermenter and bagging the dry hops. I am going to work on the former, but I really don't want to bag the hops.

I'd be interested in hearing how the flavor changes over time. My latest was bottled about 4 weeks ago and it keeps getting better. If it's like my others, it will peak in the next two weeks.

This is what I use to transfer from BK (keggle) to fermentor (carboy) It is stainless mesh I bought on Amazon. It works surprisingly well as long as you slow way down for last gallon so the siphon doesn't break. I used to use the angled pickup (in 1st pic) with a stainless scrubbie for filtering but this screen is much better plus the pickup now is about 1/4" off the bottom. The pitcher has about 1/2 gallon of hops and trub which is typically what remains.

 

[Hannabrew]

Not sure about the nitro vs vacuum seal. I only do it because all of the hop resellers (yakima, farmhouse, hop heaven, etc) purge with nitro and then vacuum

Dry hop just as you describe - under pressure. I currently use Speidel with the norcal gas/prv lid with 20lb spring shown below. Fermenter will hold about 15lbs. I spund with a few points left until FG to get natural carbonation. I release some pressure to add dryhops (that I have to supplement with force carb in keg). No swirling - usually in contact ~36 hours. I learned this process on probrewer forum, supplemented by all of the research that shows extraction of the major hop oils occur within 24hrs. --- I just ordered two Spike Flex+ but will continue the same process as it works wonderfully for me.


View attachment 620614

Ah so you are spunding prior to DHing. I'm always worried about racking fully carbed beer to the serving keg. I know it should be fine with a counter pressure fill but sounds like it could go south easily.

 

[SRJHops]

Yes - trub has a fining effect on the beer. Positive / negative ions --- a bunch of chemistry stuff and research has shown this. I don't remember the papers/links but I think Janish has some stuff on it. Plus if you look at the pics on the brulosophy exbeeriment the trubby beer is noticeably clearer --- accordingly YES it is stripping hop oils from the solution just like yeast when it floccs

Another brulosophy exbeeriment to back this up is the one found here - BIAB vs No Sparge. The BIAB has a bunch of trub in the fermentor and noticed after FG it is significantly clearer than the No Sparge version. As it goes on you see more haze in the BIAB version - not sure what this is - but read on to see the author say this about the BIAB (trubby batch):
"I perceived it as being generally less characterful with notably less hop flavor, while it finished with a slightly sticky, almost cloying quality."

I cannot say for certain this perceived less hop was due to the initial trub or not but it makes you think given the fermentor pics.

Furthermore In the discussion they even noted this: On the second evaluation done more recently, I brought along my trusty wife whose prowess in baking and cooking is rivaled only by her strong dislike for beer. Her reaction was quite interesting. We performed 3 semi-blind triangle tests with the beers at keezer temperature and in each case, she was able to identify the odd-beer-out on smell alone, something I simply could not reproduce. In her words, the BIAB beer “did not have as much smell.” She also noted there was “another smell” present in the no sparge beer, which I presume might be a stronger hop character.

read more here about trub - links to the sciencey stuff are available here too if you wanna click around and read it for yourself (thanks @couchsending for flagging this to me):
http://www.********************/brewing-methods/trub-seperation-why-and-how/

Awesome info -- thanks so much! I think this makes it pretty clear that for NEIPA's it's best to keep as much trub out of the fermenter as possible. I suppose it also applies to any hoppy beer, really. Perhaps for other styles it's not as important, and I suppose even an advantage for some in theory. But I'm looking forward to making this process change. I do have a kettle screen that I haven't used yet...

 

[Hannabrew]

It's good practice for the stability of all beer

 

[Genuine]

Just kegged mine today. Ended at 1.015 and used Imperial’s A38! Aroma is amazing, very soft bitterness. A bit green however I’m sure some cold conditioning will help that.

 

[lupulinaddict]

Not sure about the nitro vs vacuum seal. I only do it because all of the hop resellers (yakima, farmhouse, hop heaven, etc) purge with nitro and then vacuum

Dry hop just as you describe - under pressure. I currently use Speidel with the norcal gas/prv lid with 20lb spring shown below. Fermenter will hold about 15lbs. I spund with a few points left until FG to get natural carbonation. I release some pressure to add dryhops (that I have to supplement with force carb in keg). No swirling - usually in contact ~36 hours. I learned this process on probrewer forum, supplemented by all of the research that shows extraction of the major hop oils occur within 24hrs. --- I just ordered two Spike Flex+ but will continue the same process as it works wonderfully for me.


View attachment 620614

Did you modify, or buy a new spring? I can’t mine to hold that much pressure. Have been thinking of getting another spring because I am out of threads on the screw.

 

[AnttiLeh]

One week in a bottle, had to try it out. Not much carbon at the moment (in the pic I have already take few sips), but taste and
aroma was overwhelming! I think the color is very nice and theres none of hop/yeast depris. This will be 5/5 beer.

 

[ttuato]

Did you modify, or buy a new spring? I can’t mine to hold that much pressure. Have been thinking of getting another spring because I am out of threads on the screw.

It comes with a 5lb spring. I bought the optional 20lb spring from norcal. FYI - it is the same spring as the ones in the universal poppet replacements on amazon.

 

[lupulinaddict]

It comes with a 5lb spring. I bought the optional 20lb spring from norcal. FYI - it is the same spring as the ones in the universal poppet replacements on amazon.

Thanks. Didn’t know he sold different springs, and I have some poppets laying around!

 

[JohnConnor]

Here's my latest creation as promised. I'm starting a little bit of a blog (mainly for my own reference) which I'll attach with a more in depth review. What we have here is 90% 2-row/10% Vienna. Bittered with columbus. Hopped with mosaic, centennial, and amarillo. Anyone who thinks 60 minute additions don't add flavor, I will fight you. Columbus comes through pretty prevalently. I'm not sure how I feel about it... I tried @Dgallo driving fermentation schedule. The hops bring a lot of orange-y citrus to the table. If I really, really look for it, peach is there (I used 1318). I can't 100% say it did what I wanted to to do but I think it could also be complimenting my hop choices more than standing on it's own. But I will say, the schedule produced probably the most vigorous fermentation I've had in awhile. And it's clean. I also dropped yeast before dry hopping. Again, cleanest representation of hops I've had. I won't be doing "bio hopping" again.

 

[marchuk96]

Here's my latest creation as promised. I'm starting a little bit of a blog (mainly for my own reference) which I'll attach with a more in depth review. What we have here is 90% 2-row/10% Vienna. Bittered with columbus. Hopped with mosaic, centennial, and amarillo. Anyone who thinks 60 minute additions don't add flavor, I will fight you. Columbus comes through pretty prevalently. I'm not sure how I feel about it... I tried @Dgallo driving fermentation schedule. The hops bring a lot of orange-y citrus to the table. If I really, really look for it, peach is there (I used 1318). I can't 100% say it did what I wanted to to do but I think it could also be complimenting my hop choices more than standing on it's own. But I will say, the schedule produced probably the most vigorous fermentation I've had in awhile. And it's clean. I also dropped yeast before dry hopping. Again, cleanest representation of hops I've had. I won't be doing "bio hopping" again.

No other grain??? Just the 2 row and Vienna??How's the feel and body?? Head retention looks great as well as the overall appearance of the beer

 

[SRJHops]

Here's my latest creation as promised. I'm starting a little bit of a blog (mainly for my own reference) which I'll attach with a more in depth review. What we have here is 90% 2-row/10% Vienna. Bittered with columbus. Hopped with mosaic, centennial, and amarillo. Anyone who thinks 60 minute additions don't add flavor, I will fight you. Columbus comes through pretty prevalently. I'm not sure how I feel about it... I tried @Dgallo driving fermentation schedule. The hops bring a lot of orange-y citrus to the table. If I really, really look for it, peach is there (I used 1318). I can't 100% say it did what I wanted to to do but I think it could also be complimenting my hop choices more than standing on it's own. But I will say, the schedule produced probably the most vigorous fermentation I've had in awhile. And it's clean. I also dropped yeast before dry hopping. Again, cleanest representation of hops I've had. I won't be doing "bio hopping" again.

Helluva nice looking beer and photo. If you are willing, could you post the recipe? The simple grain bill is very intriguing. Love to know when you added the hops, amounts, and temps.

 

[Dgallo]

Here's my latest creation as promised. I'm starting a little bit of a blog (mainly for my own reference) which I'll attach with a more in depth review. What we have here is 90% 2-row/10% Vienna. Bittered with columbus. Hopped with mosaic, centennial, and amarillo. Anyone who thinks 60 minute additions don't add flavor, I will fight you. Columbus comes through pretty prevalently. I'm not sure how I feel about it... I tried @Dgallo driving fermentation schedule. The hops bring a lot of orange-y citrus to the table. If I really, really look for it, peach is there (I used 1318). I can't 100% say it did what I wanted to to do but I think it could also be complimenting my hop choices more than standing on it's own. But I will say, the schedule produced probably the most vigorous fermentation I've had in awhile. And it's clean. I also dropped yeast before dry hopping. Again, cleanest representation of hops I've had. I won't be doing "bio hopping" again.

Looks good brother. I’m glad it really worked for your hop character. In my experience the fermentation and esters plays a lot with the overall flavor and aroma of the beer. I feel much of the time people say they aren’t getting the aroma they are looking for, they are overlooking fermentation

 

[JohnConnor]

No other grain??? Just the 2 row and Vienna??How's the feel and body?? Head retention looks great as well as the overall appearance of the beer

Straight meringue bruh. Terrible picture but it gives you the idea. I have head all the way to the bottom. In all honesty, a lot of it is in the pour. Youtube slow pour.

I'm a huge fan of simple. I'm also a huge fan of hazy vs milky. So I tend to leave the flaked stuff out. Sometimes I'll throw 5% wheat malt in there for head retention (I haven't in a while because I'm getting better at the head stuff without it). Mouthfeel is probably my best. But this is also the highest ABV I've ever made which will help in that department.

Recipe:

90% Rahr 2 row
10% Weyermann Vienna

Columbus @ 60 min - 40 IBU
Amarillo @ 20 min - ~20 IBU
Centennial @ 20 min - ~25 IBU
WP 1 oz each Amarillo, Centennial & Mosaic (all cryo) @ 175F for 30 min.
DH 1 oz each Amarillo, Centennial & Mosaic (all cryo) after FG is reached and yeast is dumped.

2 packets 1318 with a vitality starter on brew day with runnings from sparge. Fermented with schedule from previous posts.

 

[SRJHops]

Straight meringue bruh. Terrible picture but it gives you the idea. I have head all the way to the bottom. In all honesty, a lot of it is in the pour. Youtube slow pour.

I'm a huge fan of simple. I'm also a huge fan of hazy vs milky. So I tend to leave the flaked stuff out. Sometimes I'll throw 5% wheat malt in there for head retention (I haven't in a while because I'm getting better at the head stuff without it). Mouthfeel is probably my best. But this is also the highest ABV I've ever made which will help in that department.

Recipe:

90% Rahr 2 row
10% Weyermann Vienna

Columbus @ 60 min - 40 IBU
Amarillo @ 20 min - ~20 IBU
Centennial @ 20 min - ~25 IBU
WP 1 oz each Amarillo, Centennial & Mosaic (all cryo) @ 175F for 30 min.
DH 1 oz each Amarillo, Centennial & Mosaic (all cryo) after FG is reached and yeast is dumped.

2 packets 1318 with a vitality starter on brew day with runnings from sparge. Fermented with schedule from previous posts.

Cool, thanks for sharing. 5 gallon batch? What are your thoughts on Cryo? I used some once but could not really tell if it did anything better/different. But I only used a few ounces...