New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[jakturner]

I tried a little experiment recently where fermented in a keg and served it right from the same keg with a floating dip tube. I normally jump it to a fresh keg usually with keg hops or Cryo Hops. This was one single dry hop on day 3. I thought it was a bust because most of these beers I make are ready to drink after 1 week in the fridge, this one took 2 weeks to drop the hop burn and come into its own. It’s delicious now 2.5 weeks later. I definitely plan to keep experimenting with this as it was crazy easy to do and it was never exposed to o2 from a transfer.
A couple side notes that might have contributed to needing a longer conditioning time.
I have never used this hop combo before, mosaic, simcoe, equinox. 1:1:1
I left town while it was fermenting and the the temp fell down to 59 degree some time in the first 3 days and it had slowed to a crawl till I warmed it back up.

One last thing, in the 30 seconds it took the take a picture of this in the sun it got a little light struck with a slight skunky aroma. Crazy. Definitely drink your NEIPAs in the shade this summer!

 

[VT_jlee]

My latest take on this recipe is a session NEIPA, and it came out really good so I thought I'd share (this was a double batch so I'm going to post percentages):

70% Pils
16% white wheat malt
12% flaked oats
2% acid malt

Water profile:
Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 mash pH
117.5 6.8 33.9 156.4 100.3 5.48

OG: 1.047
FG: 1.011
ABV: 4.7%

Kettle hops:
Apollo to 20 ibu
2oz each Mosaic/Simcoe at flame out for a 10 minute stand

Dry hop:
2oz each Mosaic/Simcoe @ 48 hrs into fermentation
5 vanilla beans split, cored and chopped, soaked in vodka for 4 days

Keg hop:
1oz each Mosaic/Simcoe cryo hops

Really close to what I was hoping for an a sessionable NEIPA... delcious and something you can have several of in a sitting very easily. I pulled back on my normal hopping schedule a bit so I wouldn't overwhelm the smaller malt base, and I added the vanilla tincture with the dry hops to help add a perception of sweetness and body to the beer while using less fermentables. After a week in the keg it all really came together.

Obligatory glamour shot

 

[jakturner]

My latest take on this recipe is a session NEIPA, and it came out really good so I thought I'd share (this was a double batch so I'm going to post percentages):

70% Pils
16% white wheat malt
12% flaked oats
2% acid malt

Water profile:
Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 mash pH
117.5 6.8 33.9 156.4 100.3 5.48

OG: 1.047
FG: 1.011
ABV: 4.7%

Kettle hops:
Apollo to 20 ibu
2oz each Mosaic/Simcoe at flame out for a 10 minute stand

Dry hop:
2oz each Mosaic/Simcoe @ 48 hrs into fermentation
5 vanilla beans split, cored and chopped, soaked in vodka for 4 days

Keg hop:
1oz each Mosaic/Simcoe cryo hops

Really close to what I was hoping for an a sessionable NEIPA... delcious and something you can have several of in a sitting very easily. I pulled back on my normal hopping schedule a bit so I wouldn't overwhelm the smaller malt base, and I added the vanilla tincture with the dry hops to help add a perception of sweetness and body to the beer while using less fermentables. After a week in the keg it all really came together.

Obligatory glamour shot

Did you add the 5 vanilla beans with the tincture or just the vodka? 5 is a lot, I usually use 1-2 but that’s added directly to the beer.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Did anyone brew a NEIPA with Eureka! hops? Got 1lb in the freezer that I wanna try in whirlpool and dry hop. Any thought on this Simcoe on steroid ? The brulosophy Hop Chronicles describe aroma and flavor:
-Citrus
-Resinous
-Tropical fruit

Gonna brew this next week with Azacca and Galaxy.

 

[marjen]

SO just curious how many people are BIABing their NE IPAs? And if you do how long grain to glass?

 

[MMJfan]

SO just curious how many people are BIABing their NE IPAs? And if you do how long grain to glass?

I do BIAB. Since I dry hop much earlier than I do with traditional style IPA's (I'm dry hopping around day 4 of fermentation) I'm usually bottling around 8-9 days after racking it to the fermentor. From there, I usually give it about a week after bottling to carb up and condition before it's ready to drink. So for me it's somewhere between 16-20 days from grain to glass.

 

[pshankstar]

I also BIAB and when I did this I transferred to the serving keg on day 12 or 14. I can’t recall and don’t have my notes handy.

It was carbonated in 48 hours after kegging, but giving it another week in the keg too way the harshness it seemed to have I think from all the hops.

 

[stickyfinger]

Did anyone brew a NEIPA with Eureka! hops? Got 1lb in the freezer that I wanna try in whirlpool and dry hop. Any thought on this Simcoe on steroid ? The brulosophy Hop Chronicles describe aroma and flavor:
-Citrus
-Resinous
-Tropical fruit

Gonna brew this next week with Azacca and Galaxy.

Eureka! to me is the essence of piney mango. It is a very intense hop. I’d use it as an accent hop with others. For 6oz addition, I’d try 1-2 of it as Eureka! to start.

 

[stickyfinger]

Eureka! to me is the essence of piney mango. It is a very intense hop. I’d use it as an accent hop with others. For 6oz addition, I’d try 1-2 of it as Eureka! to start.

I like 1 oz denali, 1 oz Eureka and 4 oz of stuff you know you like - galaxy, citra, mosaic

 

[RTHP99]

For those of you doing closed transfers, what are you using(if anything) for filters to avoid clogging? After reading about clogging issues, I'm hesitant to attempt a closed transfer, but would really like to with this beer

 

[schematix]

filters clog too.... sometimes easier

 

[milldoggy]

For those of you doing closed transfers, what are you using(if anything) for filters to avoid clogging? After reading about clogging issues, I'm hesitant to attempt a closed transfer, but would really like to with this beer

Been asked on here a few times, but the thread is long. I use the brew hardware trub filter with 200 micron screen, works well. I can look up my thread on it if you want.

 

[jmcquesten]

This is what I put my dry (keg) hops in. After 4 or 5 days in a keg with hops in that, I transfer to a new keg off the hops.

 

[stickyfinger]

The last couple times I just used my racking cane and took out the "poppets" on beverage QD and the keg. It's not perfect, but I think it would be very hard to clog.

 

[popquizkid]

The best method I have found is do all dry hopping in primary and then transfer out through an line strainer - never had it clog. I am using a decently large size as I just trying to get the hop particulate out between the primary and keg.

This allows you to remove all other screens / filters from the transfer and I have used it 5 times without clogs. Before that I was running into a lot of issues transferring.

https://www.vacmotion.com/Products/Main_Inlinestrainers.aspx

 

[RTHP99]

Which size mesh are you using?

The best method I have found is do all dry hopping in primary and then transfer out through an line strainer - never had it clog. I am using a decently large size as I just trying to get the hop particulate out between the primary and keg.

This allows you to remove all other screens / filters from the transfer and I have used it 5 times without clogs. Before that I was running into a lot of issues transferring.

https://www.vacmotion.com/Products/Main_Inlinestrainers.aspx

 

[snocross1985]

Keeps us posted - I have a pound of Idaho 7 i just got recently was thinking about using it and Citra together in an NEIPA.

Came out great with Idaho 7. I have an ounce of Idaho 7 in the keg right now (2.5 gallon keg) and the aroma after being on gas for a week is fantastic. This definitely is right up there with beer that I have bought for $15 for a 4 pack of 16 ounce cans. I’m really happy with how this came out.

 

[RTHP99]

How about drilling a hole in the bottom of a stainless steel dry hopper, installing a silicone grommet , and putting the racking cane into it? I'd imagine that with so much surface area on a decent sized one, it would be less susceptible to clogging compared to other options

 

[murphyslaw]

I'd like to do something like this as a filter: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

 

[murphyslaw]

Also, a commenter on brulosophys Facebook page said he out 1 tsp of ascorbic acid in his keg to stave off staling caused by oxidation. Said his ne IPAs have lasted longer that way.

 

[cheesebach]

I'd like to do something like this as a filter: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

I just bought one of these myself and plan to try it out in my next brew this weekend. No risk of oxidation like you might get with trying to completely purge an in-line filter, but not sure how you’d use it unless you use a keg as your fermenter.

Up until now, I’ve just been using a trimmed dip tube that leaves behind the last 1/3 gallon. With a cold crash under CO2, I haven’t had any trouble with clogging yet, but always feels like it’s just a matter of time before one happens.

 

[popquizkid]

Which size mesh are you using?

I have both the 950 micron and 304 micron screens. I started with the 950 and it does the trick (not trying to filter just get the big hop particulate). Don't think I have ever even used the 304.

 

[MerlinWerks]

How about drilling a hole in the bottom of a stainless steel dry hopper, installing a silicone grommet , and putting the racking cane into it? I'd imagine that with so much surface area on a decent sized one, it would be less susceptible to clogging compared to other options

Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than a racking cane. Also the white plastic lids are a little brittle so drill them from the underside with the flat part against a piece of wood.

 

[RTHP99]

I was thinking to use it as a filter over the racking cane

Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than a racking cane. Also the white plastic lids are a little brittle so drill them from the underside with the flat part against a piece of wood.

Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than a racking cane. Also the white plastic lids are a little brittle so drill them from the underside with the flat part against a piece of wood.

 

[pearljam1984]

About 2 weeks ago I kegged this one.

1.058-1.012 - 6.2%

Golden Promise- 71%
Flaked Oats- 21%
Golden Naked Oats- 8%

18oz. Equally of Azacca, Eureka, El Dorado

1318- fermented at 71/72 for 7 days and then kegged. Let it sit for two weeks and served.

I like the golden promise a bit better than standard 2-row. You can pick up a touch of malt. The color really came out bright. Aroma and taste are great. Passion fruit. Pineapple. OJ.

 

[KrunkMasterKyle]

Also, a commenter on brulosophys Facebook page said he out 1 tsp of ascorbic acid in his keg to stave off staling caused by oxidation. Said his ne IPAs have lasted longer that way.

My question to this would be; does it affect the taste of the beer? Vitamin C isn't necessarily flavorless. I doubt anyone would notice 1 tsp in 5 gallons but I would like to see the difference between a beer with and without.

 

[ttuato]

"....Make sure to purge the keg of pressure before taking the post off to check though - otherwise you will get an IPA money shot."

As soon as the "visual" hit me....OMG - ROFL!!!!

 

[ttuato]

There have been several references to "Dialed In" on this thread recently --- what do you know Beer & Brewing Magazine posts the homebrew recipe last week: https://beerandbrewing.com/homebrew-recipe-trilliums-dialed-in-ipa-with-wine-grape-must/

JC if you are lurking could you please bless us with a comment on the premise that Mike / Scott have made about using only less expensive hops (aka CTZ) and saving the glamour hops for dryhop only?

https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2018/02/sapwood-cellars-cheater-hops-ne-dipa.html

 

[murphyslaw]

There have been several references to "Dialed In" on this thread recently --- what do you know Beer & Brewing Magazine posts the homebrew recipe last week: https://beerandbrewing.com/homebrew-recipe-trilliums-dialed-in-ipa-with-wine-grape-must/

JC if you are lurking could you please bless us with a comment on the premise that Mike / Scott have made about using only less expensive hops (aka CTZ) and saving the glamour hops for dryhop only?

https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2018/02/sapwood-cellars-cheater-hops-ne-dipa.html

That recipe suggests to me that he agrees, since he's using hop extract "or pellet hops" for bittering.

 

[grassfeeder]

There have been several references to "Dialed In" on this thread recently --- what do you know Beer & Brewing Magazine posts the homebrew recipe last week: https://beerandbrewing.com/homebrew-recipe-trilliums-dialed-in-ipa-with-wine-grape-must/

JC if you are lurking could you please bless us with a comment on the premise that Mike / Scott have made about using only less expensive hops (aka CTZ) and saving the glamour hops for dryhop only?

https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2018/02/sapwood-cellars-cheater-hops-ne-dipa.html

Im shocked there is that little flaked wheat in there - also, no WP addition at all? 6oz total hops? Really? I also didn't think there was any Galaxy in it. Columbus and NS only.

 

[midegrou]

Hi all, long-time lurker first-time poster. I also was having oxidation issues with my kegged NEIPAs.

Assuming I *have* to cold crash, I was thinking of the following approach:

1. When time to crash, push a small of amount of CO2 into the better bottle to slightly pressurize
   • I'm testing this now in my refrigerator with a better bottle full of water
2. Monitor over two days and add small amounts more if I see the bottle compressing
3. After two days, close transfer to keg with priming sugar added (no keg hopping)
4. Allow to prime at room temp over a week or so
5. Chill and then add (or release) CO2 to serving pressure

Would love to hear thoughts/feedback on this. I added the keg priming step because I've seen my bottles have better results than kegs (of the same batch). The thought is that priming could "take care of" any oxygen I might be introducing (possibly during crashing?).

 

[murphyslaw]

Hi all, long-time lurker first-time poster. I also was having oxidation issues with my kegged NEIPAs.

Assuming I *have* to cold crash, I was thinking of the following approach:

1. When time to crash, push a small of amount of CO2 into the better bottle to slightly pressurize
   • I'm testing this now in my refrigerator with a better bottle full of water
2. Monitor over two days and add small amounts more if I see the bottle compressing
3. After two days, close transfer to keg with priming sugar added (no keg hopping)
4. Allow to prime at room temp over a week or so
5. Chill and then add (or release) CO2 to serving pressure

Would love to hear thoughts/feedback on this. I added the keg priming step because I've seen my bottles have better results than kegs (of the same batch). The thought is that priming could "take care of" any oxygen I might be introducing (possibly during crashing?).

I doubt adding co2 to the better bottle would do anything. How do you plan to add it?

 

[stickyfinger]

Hi all, long-time lurker first-time poster. I also was having oxidation issues with my kegged NEIPAs.

Assuming I *have* to cold crash, I was thinking of the following approach:

1. When time to crash, push a small of amount of CO2 into the better bottle to slightly pressurize
   • I'm testing this now in my refrigerator with a better bottle full of water
2. Monitor over two days and add small amounts more if I see the bottle compressing
3. After two days, close transfer to keg with priming sugar added (no keg hopping)
4. Allow to prime at room temp over a week or so
5. Chill and then add (or release) CO2 to serving pressure

Would love to hear thoughts/feedback on this. I added the keg priming step because I've seen my bottles have better results than kegs (of the same batch). The thought is that priming could "take care of" any oxygen I might be introducing (possibly during crashing?).

i’d recommend just racking from primary to a purged keg with the poppets removed first. see how that goes

 

[Pratty]

Has anyone tried Centennial hops into a beer during high krausen like we do when making an neipa?

I ask as i made a rye pale and and planned to dry hop with Centennial and was thinking of using the same technique.

Yeast is US05

 

[midegrou]

I doubt adding co2 to the better bottle would do anything. How do you plan to add it?

i’d recommend just racking from primary to a purged keg with the poppets removed first. see how that goes

Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.

I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.

Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!

 

[stickyfinger]

Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.

I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.

Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!

i've had the autosiphon screen let beer drain into it too slowly and then the siphon pulled all of the beer out of the inside of it before it could fill more. One workaround would have been to slow down the siphon speed I suppose.

 

[jakturner]

Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.

I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.

Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!

I’ve never tried using a filter, but before I switch to fermenting in a keg I use to close transfer from better bottle (well a PET vintage shop carboy) when it got clogged the pressure would build up and the convex bottom would pop out concave. After transfer I would pop it back in, this happed maybe 3-4 time before I decided to switch to kegs. The carboy is still in good working order and has had many beers go through it since. Point being those PET carboys are pretty damn tough.

 

[midegrou]

i've had the autosiphon screen let beer drain into it too slowly and then the siphon pulled all of the beer out of the inside of it before it could fill more. One workaround would have been to slow down the siphon speed I suppose.

Yeah, I'll be pushing with CO2, so I can keep an eye on the gauge. Not really sure what I'll do if the pressure rises and the beer stops flowing, though.

I just ordered some cheap cascade hops on Amazon. I think I'll test this approach out in my bathtub with water and the same amount of dry hops (after they've been in there for a day or two). Don't want to lose precious small-batch beer if this is a dumb setup.

 

[murphyslaw]

Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.

I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.

Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!

As far as cold crashing, the best solution I've heard of is more complicated than I'd like. You could do the keg purge with fermentation gas--where you have a tube go from your airlock to an empty keg. Apparently, there's so much co2 produced in fermentation that this purges better than pushing out sanitizer. If you set up one of those mason jar contraptions off the other keg post, you should be able to cold crash without oxidiation. I haven't tried it, because its more complicated than I'd like.

I really like the idea of cold crashing, though. I might try just fill a big ziplock with CO2 and attach it in place of the airlock.


__________

As far as the keg filters, I have one concern. You'd have to fit the filter before you purge the keg, and therefore before you fill the keg. So I would think clogs would be likely while filling. Or even if it didn't clog, whatever debris is racked into the keg that can't pass through the screen would end up on the inside of the screen and thus would not be filtered out of your pour.

 

[jakturner]

Yeah, I'll be pushing with CO2, so I can keep an eye on the gauge. Not really sure what I'll do if the pressure rises and the beer stops flowing, though.

I just ordered some cheap cascade hops on Amazon. I think I'll test this approach out in my bathtub with water and the same amount of dry hops (after they've been in there for a day or two). Don't want to lose precious small-batch beer if this is a dumb setup.

Honestly the easiest way to close transfer from carboy is to take the guts out of the poppet and black disconnect. I always ended up having to do that anyway when it clogged up. Just be quick and hold your finger over the hole when putting the poppet back together. If your careful the small amount of debris will settle in the bottom of the keg and won’t be enough to cause problems when tapped.