New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[g-star]

What I was pointing out is that you said this style is supposed to be hazy, something that I contest. It seems to me that folks are using that as a crutch to make beers that are overly hazy/murky. This style is hazy as a byproduct of how the beers are constructed, and imo shouldn't be brewed with the intention of it being as hazy.

100% agree with this. I've come across some homebrewed "NE IPA's" that were under-fermented, murky/turbid garbage. Tasted like someone mixed under-bittered wort with Tropicana. Some were at club night during NHC this year.

Ironically, it seems this style brings out the best and worst in homebrewing.

 

[ThatVideoKid]

100% agree with this. I've come across some homebrewed "NE IPA's" that were under-fermented, murky/turbid garbage. Tasted like someone mixed under-bittered wort with Tropicana. Some were at club night during NHC this year.



Ironically, it seems this style brings out the best and worst in homebrewing.

And even professional brewing too.

 

[Braufessor]

I just finished my 4th NEIPA. 2nd time using Mosaic. I get a huge tangerine citrus flavor with that hop. It's great. Just wondering if anyone else gets that.

Mosaic and Citra can give some incredible fruit flavors.I like galaxy in combo with them as oppose to centennial - orange, grapefruit, pineapple.....

 

[Braufessor]

I'm sure you've heard this before, but just because the ambient temperature is 65, doesn't mean the fermenting wort will be 65. I saw it first hand on a brett beer I did with no temperature control as I was told by the brewery I got the brett yeast from to let it free rise up to the 70s. I had a thermometer with a probe taped to the side of the bucket and the temperature of the fermenting wort got up to the mid to upper 70s for a couple days during the first few days of fermentation and this was in my finished basement that was 68 at the time.

Weird. I've never had suck back with an S shaped airlock.

Oh, I keep track of beer temp. But, I start my fermentation in basement where it is cool and fermentation temp rises from 62-64 up to about 68-70. Then, after a couple days as temps. plateau..... I move upstairs where it can maintain around 70 for duration of fermentation.

Any time you decrease the temp of your beer (cold crashing) the cooling of the air in fermenter will pull air in... no possible way it won't unless it is in an airtight container like a pressurized keg.

 

[Braufessor]

I love John Palmer. He has a ton of knowledge. The problem I think is that he is too theoretical with everything. I have cold crashed ever manner of beer and had no problems to my taste. Just do what works for you.

You can even hear it in Jamil's voice and comments sometimes that he is getting frustrated with Palmer and his inability to just make a clear statement about what we should do. Jamil has a ton of brewing experience. Palmer has less experience but a lot of academic knowledge. The academic knowledge doesn't always translate into a homebrewed batch of beer or at least isn't as dire as you think.

I'm all for brewing research, but you have to do what tastes best and is convenient for you. I've tried racking IPAs that are young and have a ton of hops, and it can be a real PITA. Cold crashing definitely makes it easier IMHO.

I agree with this in all areas of brewing. I think Brulosophy has done a great job of demonstrating that there is a very distinct difference between what is "technically occurring" and what people "can actually detect and articulate." I think almost every one of the experiments so far as essentially arrived in approximately the same place in the minutia of brewing: Often, no one can detect a difference at all. Even if they can detect a difference, they cannon articulate it. And, even if there is a detectable difference that can be articulated - often, people are 50/50 split on their preference between the two variables.

Once you get past the big things like sanitation, fermentation temps, basic process, decent recipes - it gets pretty damn hard to screw things up in a significant way.

 

[Braufessor]

100% agree with this. I've come across some homebrewed "NE IPA's" that were under-fermented, murky/turbid garbage. Tasted like someone mixed under-bittered wort with Tropicana. Some were at club night during NHC this year.

Ironically, it seems this style brings out the best and worst in homebrewing.

Oh.... I don't think this is unique to NE IPA's..... I have tasted the best and worst of brewing (home and professional) in every style of beer.

 

[ThatVideoKid]

Oh.... I don't think this is unique to NE IPA's..... I have tasted the best and worst of brewing (home and professional) in every style of beer.

I don't know if most New England breweries are just pretty good, or if I just have a very forgiving pallet. I haven't had very many bad commercial brews, except shipyard.

 

[g-star]

Oh.... I don't think this is unique to NE IPA's..... I have tasted the best and worst of brewing (home and professional) in every style of beer.

Its not unique, but Coff's point about it being more prevalent with NE IPA's relative to other styles is certainly true. I've seen almost unbelievably chunky/turbid beers passed of as "NE" style, when in reality it is just poor brewing practice.

 

[Coff]

Oh.... I don't think this is unique to NE IPA's..... I have tasted the best and worst of brewing (home and professional) in every style of beer.

Totes, but I think what makes it different with this sub-style is that we are really walking a tightrope, its easy for these beers to devolve into a murky mess. Best be careful not to fall off.

 

[stickyfinger]

Totes, but I think what makes it different with this sub-style is that we are really walking a tightrope, its easy for these beers to devolve into a murky mess. Best be careful not to fall off.

everyone has their "triggers" as far as what sets them off about beers too. i'd much rather have a murky, sludgy NE IPA with a ton of hop character than a West Coast IPA that has lost a significant amount of hop flavor if given a choice for example. Some of us would likely choose the WC IPA due to an extreme aversion to yeast in beer. Peak NE IPA vs peak WC IPA? That would be a hard choice for me, maybe not for others. I really think it's up to the person. Hard to make an extreme judgment call on whether a beer is a disaster or a mess if some people like it. It's a mess to YOU.

I'm sure there is something we could all agree on, though, I'm not really even sure about that. extreme hydrogen sulfide in a beer, probably NO ONE likes that and the beer deserves the moniker of disaster?! In many areas though, it's just personal preference.

 

[Dan_K]

When I bottled the hops ended up clogging my bottling wand. I think next time I will have to use some sort of mesh filter when I am siphoning from the carboy. I might also do a single dry hop and do more hops in the whirlpool.

 

[stickyfinger]

When I bottled the hops ended up clogging my bottling wand. I think next time I will have to use some sort of mesh filter when I am siphoning from the carboy. I might also do a single dry hop and do more hops in the whirlpool.

I don't know how you avoid this with bottling. Mesh can help, but you can also wait longer before bottling I guess. The mesh will actually clog if the beer is super saturated with hops

 

[jbedell2]

When I bottled the hops ended up clogging my bottling wand. I think next time I will have to use some sort of mesh filter when I am siphoning from the carboy. I might also do a single dry hop and do more hops in the whirlpool.

See my post #1176 a few pages back. The technique I use to keep hops out of the keg will work just as well for keeping them out of the bottling bucket. The important thing is to put the mesh bag over the outlet side of the siphon hose, not the inlet. Make sort of a pouch for the hops to collect in, and hold it on with a sanitized rubber band. This won't clog and at the end of the transfer you'll have maybe 1/4 cup of hops in the bag. No hops at all will get into your bottling bucket.

It's not as fancy as a stainless steel filter, but works just as well and the mesh bag only costs a couple bucks. Plus it eliminates the PITA of transferring twice.

 

[Dan_K]

See my post #1176 a few pages back. The technique I use to keep hops out of the keg will work just as well for keeping them out of the bottling bucket. The important thing is to put the mesh bag over the outlet side of the siphon hose, not the inlet. Make sort of a pouch for the hops to collect in, and hold it on with a sanitized rubber band. This won't clog and at the end of the transfer you'll have maybe 1/4 cup of hops in the bag. No hops at all will get into your bottling bucket.

It's not as fancy as a stainless steel filter, but works just as well and the mesh bag only costs a couple bucks. Plus it eliminates the PITA of transferring twice.

That's great man, thanks. I will be giving this a shot next time I bottle. The methodology makes sense. I think I will just go to my LHBS and get the smallest mesh bag that they have, like a dry hopping bag.

Also might look for something like a silicone rubber band- not sure if I want a rubber band in my beer.

 

[brewski09]

That's great man, thanks. I will be giving this a shot next time I bottle. The methodology makes sense. I think I will just go to my LHBS and get the smallest mesh bag that they have, like a dry hopping bag.



Also might look for something like a silicone rubber band- not sure if I want a rubber band in my beer.

Unflavored dental floss or sanitized cotton string?

 

[hezagenius]

Or plastic clamps

http://www.homebrewing.org/Handy-Clamp-316-Beer-Line_p_4954.html

 

[mtnagel]

I use a reusable zip tie.

 

[Sandstorm]

That's what I use as well. Works perfect sanitize and reuse.

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

Brewed on Friday. OG 1.052 from original recipe with RO Water... Smells good tastes good. Ready to roll.

 

[EMH5]

I brewed a Citra-Mosaic IPA (base -6# GP, 6# 2-row, 2# White Wheat, .5# flaked barley) 7/7. It came out awesome. Big OJ flavor.

 

[mattywwilson]

Mosaic, Citra, Equinox. Not sure about the Equinox flavor, but great nose.

View attachment 1470708556742.jpg

 

[mattywwilson]

And, by the way, not a single hop touched the beer commando, no yeast was transferred to keg, and this beer looked exactly the same from the first pour to the last. My brewing practices are sound...this is just what a crap ton of late hops give you. It's not just a style brewers are putting out to cover bad brewing.

 

[Braufessor]

Mosaic, Citra, Equinox. Not sure about the Equinox flavor, but great nose.

What do you have for tap handles there??

 

[lilbova3]

Mosaic, Citra, Equinox. Not sure about the Equinox flavor, but great nose.

What flavor did you get with El Dorado? I ordered some El Dorado to use in a NE IPA upcoming and was worried about flavor so was just gonna use it for DH.

 

[mattywwilson]

What do you have for tap handles there??

Last year the creek behind our house flooded down here in Texas. I marked the occasion by using some limbs that made their way onto our property.

 

[PascALE]

Sorry - been out of town for a while and trying to catch up upon getting back, so have been slacking

My last several batches have looked like this:
OG = 1.060
84% efficiency, so adjust accordingly

40-41% Rahr 2 row (5.5lbs)
40-41% Golden Promise (5.5 lbs)
7.5% Flaked oats (1 lb)
3.7% Flaked Barley (.5lb)
3.7% Weyerman Wheat (.5lb)
1.9% Flaked Wheat (.25lb)
1.9% Honey malt (.25lb)

Liking the slightly higher abv. No real desire to go higher though than this..... Not a fan of beers in the 7-8%+ range. This one is right around 6.0%

Conan yeast, Hop schedule still the same. Mixing it up, but still Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combos seem to be my favorite.

Last two batches I went heavier to sulfate to experiment. One was 140:70 sulfate: chloride (carbonating now), the other was 200:40 sulfate to chloride..... about a week into fermentation. Cautiously optimistic about the first one so far.

Hello M.Braufessor,

First off all thanks for sharing your wonderfull recipe and tips. Thanks to you i've started to play with my water profile now.

I got 2 questions;

1- How do you like your recipe around 6%

2-Let's say you want to boost your recipe to make a DIPA range of 8%, what would the recipe look like.?

 

[crusader1612]

Question -
I made Hophands clone recently. and was looking to increase the gravity a bit to more IPA territory.... and use more classic IPA type hops....
my thoughts were this.
80%Pils
10%flaked Oats
10%Malted Oats
Mash at 151-152F
OG around 1060

FWH15g Chinook
60min 15g Chinook
5min 50g Chinook
0min 50g Cascade
0min 50g Centennial

Dryhop - 50g each Cascade and Centennial.

Thoughts?
WY1318 yeast btw

 

[LJvermonster]

Question -
I made Hophands clone recently. and was looking to increase the gravity a bit to more IPA territory.... and use more classic IPA type hops....
my thoughts were this.
80%Pils
10%flaked Oats
10%Malted Oats
Mash at 151-152F
OG around 1060

FWH15g Chinook
60min 15g Chinook
5min 50g Chinook
0min 50g Cascade
0min 50g Centennial

Dryhop - 50g each Cascade and Centennial.

Thoughts?
WY1318 yeast btw

I'm sure that will be solid. I made a brew with these and columbus that came out amazing. My hypercritical friends said it was better than Green from TH that we were drinking against...

 

[mccabedoug]

Sampling the 140 sulfate heavy batch. One day on gas. Gotta say, I really like this a lot. I hesitate to say it is drastically different because I am not tasting it blind vs. another version. But, I do think it comes off sharper and a more prominent, focused hop flavor. Bitterness and hop flavor seem to linger more than regular. I would say at the very least it is as good as any batch of this I have brewed. Curious if my other batch that went 200:40 might not actually have gone too far. We will see I guess. For now, I am quite intrigued by this relatively minor adjustment. Next week I think I will brew two to sample head to head.... This one and the original water profile.

How did the 200:40 sulfate:chloride beer come out. Going forward, what sulfate:chloride ratio are you using?

 

[Braufessor]

How did the 200:40 sulfate:chloride beer come out. Going forward, what sulfate:chloride ratio are you using?

the 200:40 was good.... but it was drier/sharper. Personally, I think going past that would have made the beer worse. I likely will keep things lower than that in the future.

140sulfate: 70 chloride seems best right now.
70:140 quite good also - probably need to actually do it head to head to really see if either end matters significantly enough to worry about it.

Still want to try an even ration of 1:1 in the 140 range.

 

[Braufessor]

Hello M.Braufessor,

First off all thanks for sharing your wonderfull recipe and tips. Thanks to you i've started to play with my water profile now.

I got 2 questions;

1- How do you like your recipe around 6%

2-Let's say you want to boost your recipe to make a DIPA range of 8%, what would the recipe look like.?

I like it quite a bit with a bit higher abv. in the 6% range.... probably better than when it is in the 5% range. The extra body improves it. Still not real high on abv. though either.

If I was going to do a DIPA..... I think I would just up 95% of everything to get close to desired abv. so.... say.....
*40% 2 Row
*40% Golden Promise
*15% Flaked Grains/Wheat

And, then I would throw in a pound or 5%(ish) of corn sugar to get to that final 8% abv.

I would bitter a bit more.... maybe 50ibu's of Warrior at 60. Then probably keep all the other hop additions the same or close. Perhaps around 25 ibu's centennial at 30 minutes if you wanted more bitterness.

 

[EndOfLine]

Did you notice a clarity difference in the high sulfate beer? You suggested previously that there could be.

 

[Braufessor]

Question -
I made Hophands clone recently. and was looking to increase the gravity a bit to more IPA territory.... and use more classic IPA type hops....
my thoughts were this.
80%Pils
10%flaked Oats
10%Malted Oats
Mash at 151-152F
OG around 1060

FWH15g Chinook
60min 15g Chinook
5min 50g Chinook
0min 50g Cascade
0min 50g Centennial

Dryhop - 50g each Cascade and Centennial.

Thoughts?
WY1318 yeast btw

I have not done one like that, but would be curious as to your results. Looks like a good recipe though.

 

[ThatVideoKid]

I like it quite a bit with a bit higher abv. in the 6% range.... probably better than when it is in the 5% range. The extra body improves it. Still not real high on abv. though either.



If I was going to do a DIPA..... I think I would just up 95% of everything to get close to desired abv. so.... say.....

*40% 2 Row

*40% Golden Promise

*15% Flaked Grains/Wheat



And, then I would throw in a pound or 5%(ish) of corn sugar to get to that final 8%.



I would bitter a bit more.... maybe 50ibu's of Warrior at 60. Then probably keep all the other hop additions the same or close. Perhaps around 25 ibu's centennial at 30 minutes if you wanted more bitterness.

Yeah Trillium always uses a simple sugar to bring theirs to the double IPA. Keeps the body at the right place. They use either honey or grape juice

 

[Braufessor]

Did you notice a clarity difference in the high sulfate beer? You suggested previously that there could be.

None - absolutely the same as higher chloride. I do not think chloride has anything to do with haziness of these beers.

 

[rappinduke]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1470956236.803750.jpg

Here is my latest attempt. Been spending most of my brewing time playing around with this style. Been mostly just brewing IPAs and pales. This is more of a pale ale I guess. Malt bill is pretty much a clone recipe I found for trilliums Fort Point pale ale. For hops I used Citra, El Dorado and Columbus. These hops work very well together. Came in around 5.2 % perfect for this hot weather. I have pretty much been trying a different yeast each time. I used 007 for this one and really like it. I've tried American ale yeast strains in these beers and definitely prefer an English strain. Will probably stick with 007 or 1318 going forward. It's really been a lot of fun playing with different hops and yeasts brewing these beers. Still got loads of hops combos I can't wait to try. Better get brewing. Cheers.

 

[Braufessor]

View attachment 365930

Here is my latest attempt. Been spending most of my brewing time playing around with this style. Been mostly just brewing IPAs and pales. This is more of a pale ale I guess. Malt bill is pretty much a clone recipe I found for trilliums Fort Point pale ale. For hops I used Citra, El Dorado and Columbus. These hops work very well together. Came in around 5.2 % perfect for this hot weather. I have pretty much been trying a different yeast each time. I used 007 for this one and really like it. I've tried American ale yeast strains in these beers and definitely prefer an English strain. Will probably stick with 007 or 1318 going forward. It's really been a lot of fun playing with different hops and yeasts brewing these beers. Still got loads of hops combos I can't wait to try. Better get brewing. Cheers.

This is a great example of the contribution of yeast to haze..... it does not need to contribute at all. 007 drops like a rock and produces crystal clear beer easily. I think this is a good example that the "haze" is not reliant on yeast as much as it depends on dry hopping and pH.

 

[rappinduke]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1470962223.786370.jpg

Exactly. This beer I used 1272. I find that no matter what yeast I use I still get a hazy beer. I think it's mostly the hop oil and flaked ingredients that give the beer the haze. Regardless of the yeast I get very similar results. I do like the esters the English strains give the beer compared to the American strains though.

 

[Braufessor]

View attachment 365940

Exactly. This beer I used 1272. I find that no matter what yeast I use I still get a hazy beer. I think it's mostly the hop oil and flaked ingredients that give the beer the haze. Regardless of the yeast I get very similar results. I do like the esters the English strains give the beer compared to the American strains though.

I have one going with 1272 also.... dry hop keg tomorrow for it I think.

 

[rappinduke]

Be cool to see how yours turns out. Definitely not a bad yeast. Produces a nice clean beer. Just felt like it was missing something that I like in this style of beer.