New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Braufessor]

What do you think of an Amarillo/Galaxy combo? I'm trying to avoid that oniony flavor that some associate with Mosiac. I had a Trillium Fort Point with Mosaic last week and it had that flavor I didn't like. Their all?-Galaxy Congress Street IPA was delicious though!

I have not tried it - but I don't see why not. I think any of these big, tropical hop varieties all have the potential to work well in beers like this.

I have not found hops like cascade, centennial, chinook, etc. to work quite as well. Those hops sort of have a "drier/crisp" citrus bitterness ...... the beers are still ok, but they tend to come across as a little dry and harsh in my opinion.

 

[specharka]

Looks good - I have not tried this beer with columbus, but have always like the hop. I have to admit I have never even heard of Ella. You will have to let us know how it comes out for you.

From the description, it's a very juicy hop similar to Galaxy (also Aussie). Lots of stone fruit, pineapple, and mango supposedly--can't really judge a hop until it's in the beer. I will say the Columbus is quite dank, reminds me of my...ahem...college years.

Got both on a YVH cyber Monday deal for $10/lb shipped.

 

[specharka]

Also, I've said it elsewhere, but the Citra + Galaxy combination is incredible. I had a HF Society & Solitude #4 with it and it was indescribable. Probably the best IPA I've ever had.

 

[sheikyerbouti]

Braufessor- thank you for sharing! I've come to similar conclusions for IPA's after 22 years of brewing

The grain bill I've landed on for a 5 gal batch is 11 lb domestic, 1 lb each wheat and munich and .25 lb honey. Like you, I love warrior, but lately I've been using magnum for bittering, 3 oz whirlpool and 6 oz dry hop(hops vary, but lately its been simcoe, citra and amarillo) I just scored some galaxy, so I'm just going to follow your recipe and see how it comes out.

 

[madscientistbrewNq]

So moved my beer to the dry hop keg with the plan of jumping it to the serving keg in 7 days. OG was 1.061 but only got to 1.018 at 2 weeks. Obviously beer is coming off sweet compared to projected abv 5.7 to 5.9ish. I held conan at 63 for 3 day and bumped to 68 over the next 3 days. Did I mess up the ferm temps. I expected a bit more attenuation (mashed at 153, ph was 5.4) and oddly I didn't get the haze I wanted at this point that is.... went 15 % of grist consisting of flaked wheat, barley, oats but subbed crystal 60 for honey.... first dry hop was 3 Oz and now I'm doing the second dry hoping with 3 oz.

 

[natonk]

After reading through the Hill Farmstead mouthfeel thread and this thread I have made two attemts on this style of IPA. One with 1318 and a mix of what I had in store ofdifferent hops Appollo, Columbus, Chinook, Simco, Centenial, Citra (Not too happy with this attempt).

The second one was with conan (Vermont Ale from the Yeast Bay) with Galaxy and Mosaic. Mine too came of a little sweeter then expected as it ended at 1.017 after two weeks. Mashed at 67 C (152-153F). Made a 2L starter an dfermented at 18C (64-65F) ambient temperature until fermentation slowed down after 4-5 days, added first round of dry hopps and moved to 22C (71-72F) ambient. After 10 days the fermentation more or less had ended and I added second round of dry hops. After adding the sescond round of dryhops it started to slowly bubble from the airlock again. Still I bottled after total of 14 days of fermentation. I kind of regret not waiting a little longer it might have lowered the FG a littlr more.
None the less the tasting I made at bottelling tasted very promissing. I have good hopes of this beeing my best IPA so far in my 30 batches brewing career.

Next time I will try to change ambient temperature more slowly and maybe keep at 19 C longer before moving to higher temp.

I would like to express my gratitutde to Braufessor and the rest of you guys contributing to this thread. I am located in Sweden and have zero possibillity to get hold of any true North East IPA. Thanks to you I can at least get a hint of how they taste by following your recepies and brewing instructions.

 

[Braufessor]

So moved my beer to the dry hop keg with the plan of jumping it to the serving keg in 7 days. OG was 1.061 but only got to 1.018 at 2 weeks. Obviously beer is coming off sweet compared to projected abv 5.7 to 5.9ish. I held conan at 63 for 3 day and bumped to 68 overy the next 3 days. Did I mess up the ferm temps. I expected a bit more attenuation (mashed at 153, ph was 154) and oddly I didn't get the haze I wanted at this point that is.... went 15 % flaked wheat, barley, oats but subbed crystal 60 for honey.... first dry hop was 3 Oz and now I'm doing the second dry hoping with 3 oz.

Personally, I think the "haze" tends to come primarily from two things - 1.) A slightly higher pH (5.4-5.45) and 2.) the dry hopping.

 

[Braufessor]

*** In regard to "low attenuation" with Conan - I have had similar issues with first generation. Some strategies that I would suggest.

1.) I DO NOT cold crash my starters. I make my starters about 18 hours before brewing. I make a 1L starter and I pitch the entire starter when it is rolling at high krausen. Cold crashing the yeast is not ideal - it shuts the yeast down.

2.) Ideally, I prefer repitching the yeast from previous beers. I brew a 1.40 blonde with first generation, harvest jars of yeast from it, and use them to make starters for bigger beers.

3.) I recognize not everyone wants to harvest yeast, or they don't brew often enough to make it practical. I would perhaps suggest making a 2L starter to get cell count up. Cold crash. Then the day before you want to brew, decant the starter wort off and add a new 1L of wort - that will give the yeast 18-24 hours to get rolling - then pitch that entire 1L starter.

4.) Keep temps going up..... personally I start in ambient temp of 60-62, let temp. free rise to 66-68 through fermentation. After 3-4 days I try to move the fermenter somewhere warmer 68-70 to finish out and for first dry hopping around day 5 or so.

5.) Could also try some different mash strategies....... going with a longer mash (75-90 minutes) and lower temps 147-149 could help out too if the above strategies don't work..... I would go with the actively fermenting starter first though before I started messing with low mash temps - you don't really want a "dry" beer with this style - I like 1.012 or so as FG on these.

 

[PeteNMA]

I'll second that Conan really benefits from multiple generations. It seems to get a little more aggressive each time, I've taken a pitch of Vermont from TYB out through five generations.

Generation one was OK, reasonable attenuation and flavour. By generation three it was really on stride, lots of stone fruit and apricot esters and pretty consistent attenuation. After generation five I dumped everything due to a slight hiatus between batches. I expect that it would have gone another several pitches if I'd tried

 

[madscientistbrewNq]

Yeah I was hoping to salvage the yeast cake but when I dry hopped I used pellets and just tossed them in the carboy as you can imagine 3 Oz of pellets left quite the layer at the bottom. I tried washing but there was too much debris. I will have to get more, and like you said use it on a blonde. I was hoping for a fg of 1.012-1.014 for an ipa definitely finished higher than any ipa I have done before. It's unfortunate my og wasn't higher may have come off my balanced...

By the way- pH was 5.4, ideally I want to mash at higher temps as I thought I read that it can also provide a denser mouthfeel. I will say this given I had never built my own water profile nor played with conan I can still say that I see promise. Thanks braufessor you were very helpful during this learning experience

I will report back on my thoughts of citra, galaxy and wakatu.

 

[Braufessor]

I'll second that Conan really benefits from multiple generations. It seems to get a little more aggressive each time, I've taken a pitch of Vermont from TYB out through five generations.

Generation one was OK, reasonable attenuation and flavour. By generation three it was really on stride, lots of stone fruit and apricot esters and pretty consistent attenuation. After generation five I dumped everything due to a slight hiatus between batches. I expect that it would have gone another several pitches if I'd tried

Yep - I routinely brew 25+ batches of beer from one pitch of Conan. I brew the batch of blonde, harvest 6 jars, use 5 for whatever, use 1 for another batch of blonde - repeat 3-4-5 times. I tend to "start over" with new pitch at some point simply as a precaution.

I have found Conan works great in porters, brown ales, British Dark Milds and the blonde ale I make. I would think it would work well in stouts. For whatever reason (perhaps inadequate recipe) I have yet to make a really great American Amber with it...... although, it should make a good amber too.

 

[PeteNMA]

There's really no need to wash yeast to reuse it. If anything washing it does more harm than good.

 

[Braufessor]

In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make:
OG = 1.042

45% 2 row
45% golden promise
2.5% each of Wheat, honey malt, cara 20 and flaked barley

Hops = 1oz. of liberty at 30 minutes, 1 oz. liberty at 5 minutes

PH = 5.35

Ca = 65
Sulfate = 75
Chloride = 65

I go 75% RO, 25 % Hard tap water. Lactic acid to hit 5.35-5.40

Mash = 152

** Something like Centennial Blonde recipe would be a great one too probably.

Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

 

[mtnagel]

Braufessor- thank you for sharing! I've come to similar conclusions for IPA's after 22 years of brewing

The grain bill I've landed on for a 5 gal batch is 11 lb domestic, 1 lb each wheat and munich and .25 lb honey. Like you, I love warrior, but lately I've been using magnum for bittering, 3 oz whirlpool and 6 oz dry hop(hops vary, but lately its been simcoe, citra and amarillo) I just scored some galaxy, so I'm just going to follow your recipe and see how it comes out.

Can you post your hopping schedule for simcoe, citra and amarillo? I'd like to brew one of these beers and I have almost a pound of each of these hops. Thanks

 

[mtnagel]

So can anyone smarter than me come up with a hopping schedule for a Northeast style IPA with these hops:

Amount (oz)	Hop	Date Purchased
2	Centennial      10/30/2014
2	Ahtanum	        1/15/2015
10.54	Apollo	        1/15/2015
9.2	Columbus	1/15/2015
1.5	Delta	        1/15/2015
225 ml	hop shot	1/15/2015
0.7	Crystal	        3/3/2015
0.9	Magnum	        3/3/2015
12	citra	        11/14/2015
16	simcoe      	11/14/2015
0.7	Chinook 	12/1/2015
16	Amarillo	12/27/2015
5	southern cross	12/27/2015
2	pekko	        12/27/2015

Ideally I'd like to use some of the older ones, but if not, that's okay too.

Thanks for any help you can provide as I'm not very versed in building recipes.

 

[Braufessor]

So can anyone smarter than me come up with a hopping schedule for a Northeast style IPA with these hops:

Amount (oz)	Hop	Date Purchased
2	Centennial      10/30/2014
2	Ahtanum	        1/15/2015
10.54	Apollo	        1/15/2015
9.2	Columbus	1/15/2015
1.5	Delta	        1/15/2015
225 ml	hop shot	1/15/2015
0.7	Crystal	        3/3/2015
0.9	Magnum	        3/3/2015
12	citra	        11/14/2015
16	simcoe      	11/14/2015
0.7	Chinook 	12/1/2015
16	Amarillo	12/27/2015
5	southern cross	12/27/2015
2	pekko	        12/27/2015

Ideally I'd like to use some of the older ones, but if not, that's okay too.

Thanks for any help you can provide as I'm not very versed in building recipes.

You could use hop shot or magnum to bitter.

amarillo/simcoe always go nicely together - you could do 50/50 blend of those for all the other additions.

You could go 100% citra..... I often do.

Maybe Simcoe/Citra.

Could mix in an ounce of ahtanum into both dry hops.

Could maybe mix an ounce of centennial into both post boil additions.

Those are the hops on that list that seem like they would lend themselves well to this beer. Not sure about some of the other ones.

 

[mtnagel]

Thank you very much for the help!

 

[sheikyerbouti]

Can you post your hopping schedule for simcoe, citra and amarillo? I'd like to brew one of these beers and I have almost a pound of each of these hops. Thanks

Sure!

It looks like a lot, but its a 60 min, 10, 1 addition with a couple of dry hops. Any Dry hops with zero days are dry hopped in the keg and left until they lose flavor.

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1.00 tsp Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1 -
11 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 78.6 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.1 %
1 lbs Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) Grain 4 7.1 %
1 lbs White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 5 7.1 %
0.5 oz Warrior [17.20 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 6 26.3 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 14.6 IBUs
1.0 oz Warrior [17.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 8 17.3 IBUs
1.3 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 9 1.9 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 10 1.1 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 11 1.7 IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 12 1.6 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 ml] Yeast 13 -
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 10.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 17 0.0IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs

 

[kaz4121]

Sure!

It looks like a lot, but its a 60 min, 10, 1 addition with a couple of dry hops. Any Dry hops with zero days are dry hopped in the keg and left until they lose flavor.

Ingredients
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1.00 tsp Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1 -
11 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 78.6 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.1 %
1 lbs Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) Grain 4 7.1 %
1 lbs White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 5 7.1 %
0.5 oz Warrior [17.20 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 6 26.3 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 14.6 IBUs
1.0 oz Warrior [17.20 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 8 17.3 IBUs
1.3 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 9 1.9 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 10 1.1 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 11 1.7 IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 12 1.6 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 ml] Yeast 13 -
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 10.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 16 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 17 0.0IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Warrior [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
1.0 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs

I think maybe less is more here. Perhaps try two hops varieties plus a bittering if needed. Too many "spices" can muddle the "soup"

 

[drewmarkwith]

What do you think of an Amarillo/Galaxy combo? I'm trying to avoid that oniony flavor that some associate with Mosiac. I had a Trillium Fort Point with Mosaic last week and it had that flavor I didn't like. Their all?-Galaxy Congress Street IPA was delicious though!

I am interested to hear how your Amarillo/galaxy comes out. I am brewing a galaxy/CTZ/centennial IPA this week. Congress street is Columbus in boil and Galaxy/Columbus in dry hop (per owner JC). I am set on Galaxy and Columbus but keep changing between cascade, cent and Amarillo as the third hop.

 

[g-star]

Personally, I think the "haze" tends to come primarily from two things - 1.) A slightly higher pH (5.4-5.45) and 2.) the dry hopping.

Agree with the dry hopping, but can you expand on why you might think a pH of 5.4 - 5.45 would cause haze?

I don't understand how a difference in mash pH of 0.1 - 0.2 units would cause haze, particularly when the finished beer is in the mid 4's.

Thanks.

 

[Braufessor]

I am not sure to be honest. I just notice that beers I brew above 5.4 tend to be (and stay) hazy. Beers I brew below tend to drop clear. These beers are finishing out with a post fermentation pH that is a bit high too.... 4.6 or so.

I notice it all through the boil - there is not quite the break activity as when I brew at a slightly lower pH and the wort is cloudier throughout the process. Perhaps the slightly higher pH holds the hop oils in suspension after dry hopping as well????

I will say, I recently brewed a beer (scottish 70) and I screwed up using some old phosphoric acid (I think some evaporated off). At any rate, I undershot my mash pH (5.1) and my post fermentation pH was 4.0..... It was noticeably tart/sharp. I could tell the beer was "good" underneath the sharpness. I added some baking soda in boiled water to the keg (.5 grams per gallon). 2 days later I tried it and took a reading - It took my pH up to 4.28. The difference on that beer was staggering. It went from undrinkable (at least as a scottish), to about right where it needed to be. I know this is not the same as wort clarity...... but, the difference of a couple 10th's of a pH point can be really unbelievable.

 

[drunkmonk59]

Subscribed.

 

[olotti]

Brau, do u find that the flaked barley offers more in the way of haze than say flaked wheat

 

[mtnagel]

Do you think you could take any hop schedule that you know works well in a west coast IPA and apply it to this recipe?

 

[Braufessor]

Brau, do u find that the flaked barley offers more in the way of haze than say flaked wheat

Honestly could not say on that. I have not ever taken the time to test out the various flaked grains as a variable. I have use all 3 - wheat, barley and oats - in lots of different combinations, but that was more to do with getting to a certain percentage of flaked and what I had on hand. I have more or less played around a little with 5-20% flaked grains. I found over 12% was sort of diminishing returns for me - beer wasn't noticeably better, and sparge was a PITA. Down toward 5% I just don't know if there is quite enough to matter. So, I have targeted 8-12% with whatever I have on hand.

 

[Braufessor]

Do you think you could take any hop schedule that you know works well in a west coast IPA and apply it to this recipe?

I am not saying someone could not do it.... but, personally, I have not had success with this kind of beer, using hops like Chinook, Centennial, Cascade, etc.

I recently tried to brew a low abv 1.042 APA that was a scaled down version of this recipe. Used Centennial and Cascade. I was hoping for a NE version of sort of a sierra nevada/two hearted hybrid. 2 ounce additions instead of 3 ounce additions...... It ended up coming across dry. Not "bad" - but edging toward a touch harsh and dry.

I think the big tropical hops seem to work best..... Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo, Simcoe, some of the australian and New Zealand varieties... Ahtanum maybe???

I like low cohumulone for littering - almost always use Warrior, and only to about 30 IBU's for the battering addition.

I have some Azacca coming this week that I am anxious to try out in this recipe.... never used it, but looks intriguing.

 

[mtnagel]

Interesting. Thanks.

I was asking because when I asked above which hops to use, you said simcoe and amarillo and I found out that Alpine's Duet has those hops. So I figured it would be awesome to try it in this style because I love that beer, but then I realized that is definitely a west coast style, so I wasn't sure how that would translate.

 

[Braufessor]

Interesting. Thanks.

I was asking because when I asked above which hops to use, you said simcoe and amarillo and I found out that Alpine's Duet has those hops. So I figured it would be awesome to try it in this style because I love that beer, but then I realized that is definitely a west coast style, so I wasn't sure how that would translate.

I think amarillo and simcoe would work well. I think it is more the traditional "dry/crisp/bitter/assertive" hops that might not play so well...... or, at least they haven't for me so far.

 

[olotti]

Honestly could not say on that. I have not ever taken the time to test out the various flaked grains as a variable. I have use all 3 - wheat, barley and oats - in lots of different combinations, but that was more to do with getting to a certain percentage of flaked and what I had on hand. I have more or less played around a little with 5-20% flaked grains. I found over 12% was sort of diminishing returns for me - beer wasn't noticeably better, and sparge was a PITA. Down toward 5% I just don't know if there is quite enough to matter. So, I have targeted 8-12% with whatever I have on hand.

So 8-12% of the total adjuncts like flaked wheat, oats, or barley.

 

[Braufessor]

So 8-12% of the total adjuncts like flaked wheat, oats, or barley.

yes- 8-12% of the total grain bill is what i have been putting in. Generally, that has been a 50/50 split of flaked barley and flaked oats. But, like I said, I have not really experimented that much with which flaked grain is better or worse.

 

[TxBigHops]

Thanks @Braufessor! Not sure how I missed this thread until today. subbed to come back and read every word later tonight. Something along this line is planned to brew very soon. Both a session variety, and a bit stronger (6.5 - 7%) one.

 

[mtnagel]

I think amarillo and simcoe would work well. I think it is more the traditional "dry/crisp/bitter/assertive" hops that might not play so well...... or, at least they haven't for me so far.

Thanks. Makes sense. I think I will give it a shot and post back.

 

[dunbruha]

Thanks for posting this recipe! I brewed it last Saturday, and am ready to add the first batch of dry hops tomorrow. It smells delicious!

Perhaps a little OT, but why do you use a separate dry-hop keg (and then transfer into a serving keg), instead of just serving out of the keg with the hops?

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks for posting this recipe! I brewed it last Saturday, and am ready to add the first batch of dry hops tomorrow. It smells delicious!

Perhaps a little OT, but why do you use a separate dry-hop keg (and then transfer into a serving keg), instead of just serving out of the keg with the hops?

I primarily started to use the dry hop keg to cut down on any chance of picking up 02. Throwing dry hops in serving keg would work too.... but, I don't really like to leave the dry hops in that long. A lot of what I have read indicates the bulk of the extraction takes place in perhaps as little time as a single day. So, I like to just hit that second dry hop for 2-3 days.

Additional benefits of the dry hop keg is that it basically filters all the debris out and it is just clean beer going into the serving keg.

However, to be fair, I would really need to do a couple kegs side by side to tell if the method I use makes a substantial difference. Often, we do things primarily because "that's the way we do things." I don't think putting dry hops in the serving keg would make my beer better. I do think there is at least a chance it could make it worse as the hops sat for extended period of time.

Hope your beer turns out well for you

 

[whovous]

Dumb question time: Do you ever dry hop before hitting your FG?

 

[Braufessor]

Dumb question time: Do you ever dry hop before hitting your FG?

Yes - that first dry hop at day #5 or so..... that is probably going in with a few points left above FG. Not a lot, and I don't always measure it or anything, but I would guess that gravity is maybe 1.015-1.018 perhaps, and there are a few points left that will ferment out after that dry hop. I usually finish around 1.011-1.012

 

[drunkmonk59]

Brau, great recipe, going in my to brew list. I'm brewing up a dry Irish Stout this weekend, and I'm going to use your water profile with a little baking soda
to bring the mash PH down to 5.4 Cheers!

 

[whovous]

Yes - that first dry hop at day #5 or so..... that is probably going in with a few points left above FG. Not a lot, and I don't always measure it or anything, but I would guess that gravity is maybe 1.015-1.018 perhaps, and there are a few points left that will ferment out after that dry hop. I usually finish around 1.011-1.012

I ask because I did a three day dry hop around day 4 and a second one at day 7, only to find I was still at 1.018 when my BrewSmith target was 1.011. I thought perhaps dry hopping might have contributed to my problem, but apparently it did not.

 

[Braufessor]

I ask because I did a three day dry hop around day 4 and a second one at day 7, only to find I was still at 1.018 when my BrewSmith target was 1.011. I thought perhaps dry hopping might have contributed to my problem, but apparently it did not.

I would say, generally, to the contrary.... sometimes the addition of dry hops can kind of stir up the wort, resuspend yeast, and reinvigorate a little more fermentation. Should not "stop" it.

*Temperature falling off? This can cause fermentation to stall sometimes.

*Were you checking for FG at day 7? That could be a bit early.

*Was it extract or all grain? Extract notoriously finishes high.

*Was it Conan yeast, first generation? A lot of people find it to finish higher than they like first generation. Other yeasts could be similar perhaps. But, I know I have experienced it with Conan.

*High gravity without a starter? Sometimes that can prevent a thorough ferment.

Those would be some of the things I would consider