I do oxygenate the wort however, I'm referring to adding already oxidized (not oxygenating) beer to the wort that is already fermented. It seems people spend a lot of time with their process avoiding oxidation with this beer. Just want to make the best product on my first take for this style.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
I do oxygenate the wort however, I'm referring to adding already oxidized (not oxygenating) beer to the wort that is already fermented. It seems people spend a lot of time with their process avoiding oxidation with this beer. Just want to make the best product on my first take for this style.
OP
OP
Depends..... If you made the starter and it fermented totally out, and is now 2-3+ days old, I would definitely decant it and pitch minimal amount of starter wort.
That said, my general practice is to make a 1L starter 18 hours in advance and pitch the whole thing as it is actively fermenting. I also tend to only leave my starter on the stir plate for an hour or so to get O2 into it and then I shut it off.
I have found pitching a smaller (1L) active starter gives me better results than pitching a bigger (2L+) decanted starter.
OP
OP
Yeah - I would make sure you let it go until day 10-12 for sure before cold crashing it.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
cut any gypsum additions. drop the bittering down. make sure to use a less crisp yeast. move more hops to hop stand from dry hop.
Brau, I use your original starter technique with developing an extra 100 billion cells and then saving them off for future use. Are you still doing this the 1L starter? If so, any details would be appreciated. Thanks!
OP
OP
What I have done for the last 3-4 years is this:
Whatever yeast I buy, where I want to use in future brews, I make a 1L starter and use it in a low hop/low ABV beer to start (blonde, dark mild, helles, etc.). I then harvest 6 jars (1/2-1 pint) of yeast from that beer when I keg it. I just swirl up some beer I leave behind in the fermenter with the yeast. No washing or anything like that... just pour off beer/yeast into jars. I then store those jars in the fridge.
When I want to use one, I decant off the beer in the jar and make a 1L starter 18 hours before. I generally pitch the entire 1L starter at high Krausen. I will use 5 of the 6 jars on whatever beer I want to brew. I will use the 6th one on another low hop/low ABV beer and repeat harvesting yeast. I usually take 1 pack of yeast through 2-3 generations of this. So, generally, I am getting about 15-20 beers out of a single pack/vial of yeast. I could probably get more, but it sort of becomes impractical when I am brewing varieties of beer...... at a certain point, I just don't need "that" much yeast.
Thanks. Just realized that my post was probably confusing...seeing how I just realized I confused you with Brulosophy...my bad, but equal respect for both of you! Regardless, awesome recipe! Going on my 3rd batch & hop combo...either citra-mosaic-amarillo or citra-citra-mosiac.
EcuPirate07
Beer is a food group
Not knocking your oxygenation technic, but you are probably under oxygenating (without knowing your liter flow) Chris white was on one of those podcast a while back and stated that home brewers and most breweries under oxygenate. There is a table somewhere that shows what liter flow and how long you need to go. Let me see if I can find it. I do 4LPM for 90secs I'm pretty sure I'm not even doing it enough. I'm sure your brews are still great but this form is all about help right? Chris even said you can make good beer with just shaking, but for optimum yeast performance it takes a lot more.
Found it. Skip to post 25 and watch the video. Looks like 4lpm for 60secs is the sweet spot.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=590111
It's down to 1.020 - 1.021 now, because I dropped second dry hop charge I'm inclined to start cold crashing in 1-2 days. I kinda hurried the second charge because fermantation slowed down too much and I was afraid of oxidation
Gotcha. I misunderstood that.
Cool! Thanks for the info. I was actually afraid that I was over oxygenating by going 60 seconds which I used to do. I had read something about the cell walls of the yeast bursting due to too much oxygen. I also need to check on the flow rate. I'll investigate further!
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
i have been using the "harvest" Brulosophy method for a year or so. I love it. Only drawback is bigger starters or more step ups.
tomchukj
Well-Known Member
Got my ro water yesterday, grains are milled and water treatments weighed out. Brewing tomorrow wish me luck
I'll probably try a bigger 1.5L starter+harvest with 1318 for this next one...usually do a2L. Back on topic but referencing Brulosophy...thinking about trying bru-1 hops with Citra and Mosaic...anyone have any thoughts?
I originally washed yeast and ended up with an infected strain that ruined two beers. Ever since that I now overbuild my starters so I can decant off about a 12oz sample during highest fermentation and this way I get super clean yeast. I highly recommend it.
I've been doing this for years. Got a 5L flask so I can make large starters and save lots of yeast (and $$$). Never, ever had a problem doing it this way. Just a bit more work involved.
Followed the revised recipe as close as possible, differences being that I missed my target mash temp by overcompensating for my wintery cold garage. Initial mash temp @ 158 degrees and ended up not adjusting for it in the early minutes. Additionally, I forgot the Whirlfloc tablet and finally, I don't secondary so I dry hopped all hops at once for 5 days prior to keg transfer.
5.5 gal. in fermenter for a total of 25 days, including 5 day dry hop and 4 day cold crash
WLP001 yeast w/ 1.5L starter
OG = 1.056
FG = 1.012
Cold crashed for 4 days @ 34 degrees
"Set it and forget it" carbonation @ 12psi for 2 weeks.
I'm relatively new to this amazing hobby, but here are my observations of this effort;
Sweeter than my previous brews but I attribute this to my high mash temp. I was happy to see the FG lower than I expected. Color looks great although cloudier than others I've brewed, the head dissipates fairly quickly, it's not as effervessent as I'd like for the psi setting, good (slightly forward) hop flavor and aroma. All in all, I'm enjoying it and would recommend it as a nice, easy drinking ale.
I just brewed this again yesterday. My fourth time. I've done conan twice and this is my second time using 1318. I liked my 1st 1318 the best so far. I also raised the mash temp to 155 hoping to get more head and mouthfeel and upped the grain bill a tad. The fermnter is bubbling furiously at the moment.
So just bottled this today and learned a few things for my system. Though the pain to bottle the beer tasted amazing and the beer smelled like very ripe mangos smelt so good, and very excited to try the final product.
1) since I bottle I should put it into secondary even if it's just to get it off the yeast cake and to clear the solids out a bit more, makes bottling a bit easier... lots and lots particles lol.
2) when dry hopping the last 2-3 days should of put the hops in a bag ... added to more junk in the bottling wand and made it a big pain in the ass.
3) maybe cut back on the bittering hops just a little bit I get a sharp bitterness but again that could be from all the hop particles in the beer.
1) since I bottle I should put it into secondary even if it's just to get it off the yeast cake and to clear the solids out a bit more, makes bottling a bit easier... lots and lots particles lol.
2) when dry hopping the last 2-3 days should of put the hops in a bag ... added to more junk in the bottling wand and made it a big pain in the ass.
3) maybe cut back on the bittering hops just a little bit I get a sharp bitterness but again that could be from all the hop particles in the beer.
I've just been putting a bag around the tube emptying in the bottling bucket. It's been working fine for me.
I also went down to .50 oz Warrior for the bittering. My last batch was good but a bit less bitterness would be ideal for me.
Finally getting around to brewing this tomorrow on my day off. In regards to the flame out additions, is there a preferred time for how long to leave the kettle hot before cooling it to the 160F for the next hop addition? I have very cold ground water right now so I could get it down to 160F in just a couple minutes but I don't want to do it too fast and not get anything out of the hops. I will recirculate with a pump the whole time.
I put some hops in as soon as I turned the heat off and others I added when it got to 180 and let it sit for 30 minutes until it dropped to under 160.
Mine is still in the fermeneter and it'll be a bit more than a week before I keg it but wow, does it smell wonderful. If the taste is anything like the aroma, I'll be a very happy brewer!
Mine is still in the fermeneter and it'll be a bit more than a week before I keg it but wow, does it smell wonderful. If the taste is anything like the aroma, I'll be a very happy brewer!
OP
OP
I put the flame out addition in and start chilling within 30 seconds to a minute.... get hose hooked up and turned on. It probably only takes me a couple minutes to get down to 160 as well. I would say it is only 5 minutes for me from flame out addition until I am at 160 and throw in that second set of hops.
MMP126
Lotsa Dude's Thumbs On Here...
Hey All,
Just cracked the bottle on my first attempt of a NEIPA.
Here is my recipe. Its a little strange, and I think I may change it up a bit.
Batch Size: 3gal
OG: 1.058
FG: 1.008
Yeast: OMEGA - Tropical IPA (No Starter)
Mash temp: 154F
Mash and Boil Time: 60min
Primary: 18 Days @ 77F
Secondary: 8 Days @ 58F
Dry Hop#1: 8th Day of Ferm
Dry Hop #2: Start of Secondary
Dry Hop #3: 5th Day Of Secondary
Primed with corn sugar
In the bottle for 18 days before opening.
Grains:
Golden Promise 4lb
Flaked Oats 1lb
Flaked Barley 1lb
Flaked Wheat 1lb
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 0.15lb
Carapils 0.065lb (Ran Out)
Hops:
7g Galaxy (30min)
7g Citra (30min)
7g Mosaic (30min)
14g Galaxy (DH1 and 2)
14g Citra (DH1 and 2)
14g Mosaic (DH1 and 2)
21g Galaxy (DH3)
21g Citra (DH3)
21g Mosaic (DH3)
NO WATER ADJUSTMENTS
Turned out great for my first one. It is a bit dry though, due to the low FG. Hops are amazing. Grapefruit, Melon, a little bit of flowers. Its great.
Haze looks awesome. They key is the dry hops, and I think the drop to 58F in secondary helped with this also.
Here is what I would change
1. Maybe a small bittering charge at 60. Probably Centennial next time.
2. Mash hotter. Probably shoot for 156F next time
3. This yeast was awesome. Ate all my sugars. I would pull this off primary when I hit about 1.018.
Critique me! Let me know if I can change anything. Or ask questions!
Thanks for all of your wisdom also. Couldnt have done it without yous!
Just cracked the bottle on my first attempt of a NEIPA.
Here is my recipe. Its a little strange, and I think I may change it up a bit.
Batch Size: 3gal
OG: 1.058
FG: 1.008
Yeast: OMEGA - Tropical IPA (No Starter)
Mash temp: 154F
Mash and Boil Time: 60min
Primary: 18 Days @ 77F
Secondary: 8 Days @ 58F
Dry Hop#1: 8th Day of Ferm
Dry Hop #2: Start of Secondary
Dry Hop #3: 5th Day Of Secondary
Primed with corn sugar
In the bottle for 18 days before opening.
Grains:
Golden Promise 4lb
Flaked Oats 1lb
Flaked Barley 1lb
Flaked Wheat 1lb
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 0.15lb
Carapils 0.065lb (Ran Out)
Hops:
7g Galaxy (30min)
7g Citra (30min)
7g Mosaic (30min)
14g Galaxy (DH1 and 2)
14g Citra (DH1 and 2)
14g Mosaic (DH1 and 2)
21g Galaxy (DH3)
21g Citra (DH3)
21g Mosaic (DH3)
NO WATER ADJUSTMENTS
Turned out great for my first one. It is a bit dry though, due to the low FG. Hops are amazing. Grapefruit, Melon, a little bit of flowers. Its great.
Haze looks awesome. They key is the dry hops, and I think the drop to 58F in secondary helped with this also.
Here is what I would change
1. Maybe a small bittering charge at 60. Probably Centennial next time.
2. Mash hotter. Probably shoot for 156F next time
3. This yeast was awesome. Ate all my sugars. I would pull this off primary when I hit about 1.018.
Critique me! Let me know if I can change anything. Or ask questions!
Thanks for all of your wisdom also. Couldnt have done it without yous!
BrewinSoldier
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2015
- Messages
- 471
- Reaction score
- 52
My keg of this just tapped so I think I may go for version#2. This time around I think I'm going to forgo the 60min hops and maybe use citra @15 or 10mins to get the bittering. Also going to use Conan as I seem to like the flavor profile of that yeast better. Hopefully it won't dry it out as much as the 1318 did for me.
Brewed this yesterday and about hit all my numbers spot on and had a perfect brew day. The wort in the fermenter smelled AMAZING when oxygenating the wort.
I usually dry hop in a hop sack in the fermenter however, I am considering throwing the loose pellets straight in. I use a spigot to rack to my keg. Will this cause issues? I've never thrown them straight in before, I don't feel like dealing with the bag and draining it this time with that much hops.
I usually dry hop in a hop sack in the fermenter however, I am considering throwing the loose pellets straight in. I use a spigot to rack to my keg. Will this cause issues? I've never thrown them straight in before, I don't feel like dealing with the bag and draining it this time with that much hops.
Spigot-->hose passing through lid to bottom? That would probably be fine. That's how I did it.
I tried spigot-->hose-->liquid out post and had trouble.
I think most on here who go through the liquid out post have a screen where they pick up the beer from the fermenter, like on the diptube. I don't see how to do that with a spigot.
EndOfLine
Well-Known Member
Looks good! In the future, you can really make this style of beer come alive with a few water adjustments. Do you use tap water? What is the profile?
MMP126
Lotsa Dude's Thumbs On Here...
I am thinking that you were asking me haha! Lots going on in this thread. But, thank you!
I use all tap water. I have not gotten into water chemistry yet. I would like to, but I am pretty new to the game (done about 5 AG brews) so I want to get my basics down as best as I can, before I learn something else.
It will be in the works!
I use a bucket with a valve about an inch off the bottom. That's what I'm concerned about clogging if throwing the pellets right in.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
a friend uses a big mouth bubbler with spigot. before racking he swirls it ip and tilts it back on a book. then the trub is below valve level
OP
OP
Nothing to even really learn if you want to adjust water in a simple way.
100% RO water
1 level tsp each of Gypsum and CaCl per 5 gallons of water (mash and sparge)
That will give you 120-140ppm of sulfate and Chloride and the right amount of Calcium, and the right pH.
That is all you need to do in regard to this beer if you want to get your water in the ballpark.
Hard to say with a bucket if you can't see the trub. In the 3 times I've used my fermonster, my trub has been below the spigot.
I don't think couple oz of loose hops will be the difference in the trub rising above the spigot.
Tarpon87
Well-Known Member
Kegged mine on saturday, was worried about trub as well, no issues though. Maybe the flow was slow enough through the out post that it didnt pull much in.
MMP126
Lotsa Dude's Thumbs On Here...
Thanks Braufessor!
What is the best way to get RO water? Can you buy it from a store? I do 3gal BIAB, no sparge, so I am thinking that I would just add the additions right to my strike water? Is that correct?
ultravista
Well-Known Member
What amount, or weight, do you suggest for a higher Chloride to Sulfate ratio, say 2:1?
1 tsp of Gypsum and CaCl will give you 120-140ppm - that is 120 (Gypsum)-140ppm (CaCl)?
the filling stations at Walmart. $.37 per gallon.
MMP126
Lotsa Dude's Thumbs On Here...
Oh, nice. Thank you.
OP
OP
I just have some of the clear, blue refillable jugs (3 gallon jugs). I use the refill station at walmart (and other grocery stores). Usually .37 cents a gallon or something like that. Cheapest, easiest way to get RO water basically.
Yes - just add the total amt. of salts you need for the total amt. of water you are using. Add them all right away and stir them into the water before adding grain.
OP
OP
1 tsp (per 5 gallons RO water) of gypsum = 120-140ppm of Sulfate
1 tsp (per 5 gallons RO water) of CaCl = 120-140ppm of Chloride.
The ratio itself is meaningless...... 2:1 ratio could be-
10:5
100:50
1000:500
Obviously, these all have the same ratio, but would produce a staggeringly different beer.
If you want 2:1 Chloride to Sulfate ratio, I would do something along the lines of this (per 5 gallons RO water):
1 tsp CaCl: .5 tsp Gypsum (approximately 130:65ppm)
or
1.3 tsp CaCl: .65 tsp Gypsum (approximately 175:90ppm)
Something like the above would get you in the general ballpark of where you want to be and get you in a useful 2:1 ratio.
