New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Pineapple milkshake IPA. Citra and mosaic, lactose, 2 pineapples and 2 vanilla beans. 1318 yeast

Do you mind sharing your recipe for that? I am looking at making a milkshake IPA and yours looks and sounds tasty!
 
How assertive is the pineapple flavor at 2 lbs? Assuming this is a 5gal batch?

Going to add mandarin purée to a 5 gal batch of IPA soon and I'd like to have the flavor but don't want it to overwhelm the beer.
 
How assertive is the pineapple flavor at 2 lbs? Assuming this is a 5gal batch?

Going to add mandarin purée to a 5 gal batch of IPA soon and I'd like to have the flavor but don't want it to overwhelm the beer.

Yes it's a 5 gal batch. I'm sure the amount of fruit character will vary from each fruit, but the pineapple on this one is perfect. Really wouldn't change anything about this recipe.
 
Second batch finished. Went with Columbus, Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo. Used Imperial Citrus yeast. Mashed the first batch too low, ~150. Mashed this batch ~159, a little higher than I wanted but came out better than previous batch.

IMG_0213.jpg
 
So other than the CaCl and gypsum, is there anything else that I can add to my RO to help out?

And to the guys asking about adding "dankness". I used Columbus as my bittering hop, had about a half an oz left so I tossed it in with the others in my second dry hop. Added a nice marijuana smell under all the other fruity hops. Really enjoying it
 
So other than the CaCl and gypsum, is there anything else that I can add to my RO to help out?

If you are using 100% RO water, that is really all you need. You could fiddle around with small amounts of NaCl and Epsom Salt to offset some of the Gypsum and CaCl. You could add small amounts of lactic acid to fiddle around with pH. However, in the end, I don't know that any of that would result in a beer that was dramatically different in any way.
 
I ama also going to be making a NE IPA this weekend. I am starting with RO water. Any suggestions on how much gypsum and CACL to add? i have heard 1 tsp of each?
 
If you are using 100% RO water, that is really all you need. You could fiddle around with small amounts of NaCl and Epsom Salt to offset some of the Gypsum and CaCl. You could add small amounts of lactic acid to fiddle around with pH. However, in the end, I don't know that any of that would result in a beer that was dramatically different in any way.

Ok, I'll just stick with the gypsum and CaCla.

Has anyone attempted this with New Zealand hops. I may brew up another batch this weekend and would like to use some. Just trying to figure out if I should use only New Zealand or mix with other more traditional hops or what... I'd really like to make a beer that's close to TG Zeelander or the original Alpine Nelson that has that nice white wine taste to it
 
Ok, I'll just stick with the gypsum and CaCla.

Has anyone attempted this with New Zealand hops. I may brew up another batch this weekend and would like to use some. Just trying to figure out if I should use only New Zealand or mix with other more traditional hops or what... I'd really like to make a beer that's close to TG Zeelander or the original Alpine Nelson that has that nice white wine taste to it

I have not but was thinking about trying a nelson / southern cross or nelson / galaxy / southern cross combo in a NEIPA. I personally love the galaxy / nelson combo.
 
Dry hop in primary question:

I've seen many suggestions you should throw the first round of dry hops in around day 3. If you do, should you rack to a secondary sooner than normal? I'm just wondering if two weeks (estimate) sitting on dry hops is too long and you'll get some grassy flavors.
 
Dry hop in primary question:

I've seen many suggestions you should throw the first round of dry hops in around day 3. If you do, should you rack to a secondary sooner than normal? I'm just wondering if two weeks (estimate) sitting on dry hops is too long and you'll get some grassy flavors.

I wouldn't rack to a secondary at all. I've never gotten grassy flavors from prolonged hop contact.
 
I'm trying a NEIPA this weekend and have made a starter blending one pack of WY1318 and one pack of WLP007. Has anyone else tried this? How did it come out?
 
I'm trying a NEIPA this weekend and have made a starter blending one pack of WY1318 and one pack of WLP007. Has anyone else tried this? How did it come out?

I am currently drinking more of a west coast type IPA I did using 1272 and 002 blend..... turned out very well. I would think your combo would work just fine.
 
I wouldn't rack to a secondary at all. I've never gotten grassy flavors from prolonged hop contact.

I agree with this - I would not rack to secondary either necessarily..... unless there is a real reason too, or if you have a way of doing it while avoiding oxygen. I would be more worried about oxygen than grassy flavors.
 
Hi! I brewed my first neipa last sunday with 1.072 OG and two packs of hydrated danstar windsor yeast(because we don't have liquid yeasts where I live.) Shortly after I pitched yeasts started working like crazy, temp peaked at 24 C while room temp was 18 and fermentation ended super quick, on tuesday morning I went to check the krausen for my first dry hope but it was almost completely fallen! Do you think this hurts the process? My recipe is 4kg mo 1kg wheat malt and 1 kg oats, bitter with chinook to 10-11 ibue, 25g citra-amarillo on flameout/whirlpool at 75C/early dry hop/late dry hop.
 
Hi! I brewed my first neipa last sunday with 1.072 OG and two packs of hydrated danstar windsor yeast(because we don't have liquid yeasts where I live.) Shortly after I pitched yeasts started working like crazy, temp peaked at 24 C while room temp was 18 and fermentation ended super quick, on tuesday morning I went to check the krausen for my first dry hope but it was almost completely fallen! Do you think this hurts the process? My recipe is 4kg mo 1kg wheat malt and 1 kg oats, bitter with chinook to 10-11 ibue, 25g citra-amarillo on flameout/whirlpool at 75C/early dry hop/late dry hop.

I had this happen to me a couple years ago before I truly appreciated the value of temp control. Check your gravity...the drastic swing in temperature may have been too much for them and they may have started dropping out prematurely. If you're not close to your target FG pitch new yeast sooner rather than later. If all you can get is dry yeast, pick up some more Windsor Ale yeast (Nottingham Ale yeast or some US-05 if you want better attenuation), hydrate and pitch. FIRST, check your gravity and see where your are now, then pitch more yeast if necessary.
 
For those of you who have used wlp644 sacch trois before with this beer, any tips on temps or just in general. Gonna try it out next week, never used this yeast
 
Hi! I brewed my first neipa last sunday with 1.072 OG and two packs of hydrated danstar windsor yeast(because we don't have liquid yeasts where I live.) Shortly after I pitched yeasts started working like crazy, temp peaked at 24 C while room temp was 18 and fermentation ended super quick, on tuesday morning I went to check the krausen for my first dry hope but it was almost completely fallen! Do you think this hurts the process? My recipe is 4kg mo 1kg wheat malt and 1 kg oats, bitter with chinook to 10-11 ibue, 25g citra-amarillo on flameout/whirlpool at 75C/early dry hop/late dry hop.

My guess is that it is done fermenting or close to it. 2 packs of dry yeast is a lot and 75 degrees is on the warm side..... so, I am thinking the yeast ripped through it.

I would doubt that the yeast dropped out or that you would need to add more yeast.

Add dry hops as you planned.

The biggest concern will be that the temps hit the high side of what you want and could result in some stronger esters or possibly some off flavors from fermenting a touch hot.

Ideally, you keep the temps down closer to the 68-70 range. But, I don't know that it got warm enough to "ruin" anything. Just have to wait and see.
 
I think I am going to give this style a try and bottle it as well (maybe throw a prayer or two to whichever deity you choose for me fellow homebrewers?)

Anyways, I am going to try to use what I have on hand.

80% 2 Row (Rahr)
18% White Wheat
2% Honey

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Stopping by the store and getting some quick oats wouldn't be a problem but I don't use it that often.
 
I think I am going to give this style a try and bottle it as well (maybe throw a prayer or two to whichever deity you choose for me fellow homebrewers?)

Anyways, I am going to try to use what I have on hand.

80% 2 Row (Rahr)
18% White Wheat
2% Honey

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Stopping by the store and getting some quick oats wouldn't be a problem but I don't use it that often.

seems like a nice recipe as-is. I have been wondering the impact of wheat malt on the beer. I'd like to hear if someone has compared a grist with and without the wheat and if the beer had more head or more mouthfeel with the wheat.
 
I brewed the following today.

2.5 gallon batch

2 lb Golden Promise
2 lb Rahr 2 row
8 oz Flaked oats
4 oz Flaked barley
4 oz Weyermann white wheat
2 oz Flaked wheat
2 oz Honey malt
2 oz Acid malt

1 oz Citra Added @173 degrees 30 min soak
1 oz Mosaic Added @173 degrees 30 min soak
1 oz Galaxy Added @173 degrees 30 min soak

Dry Hop 1 - Day 2/3
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
7 g Galaxy

Dry Hop 2 - Day 9
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
7 g Galaxy

Wyeast 1318 (starter)

Estimated ph - 5.37
Calcium - 103
Magnesium - 0
Sodium - 0
Chloride - 76
Sulfate - 147

OG 1.060

I'm unsure how to calculate the IBUs with Beersmith given that the hops were steeped @ 173 degrees for 30 minutes. No boil hops, no flameout hops.

I plan to try the Pineapple Milkshake NE IPA for the next batch.
 
I think I am going to give this style a try and bottle it as well (maybe throw a prayer or two to whichever deity you choose for me fellow homebrewers?)

Anyways, I am going to try to use what I have on hand.

80% 2 Row (Rahr)
18% White Wheat
2% Honey

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Stopping by the store and getting some quick oats wouldn't be a problem but I don't use it that often.

That should be perfectly fine.
 
For those of you who have used wlp644 sacch trois before with this beer, any tips on temps or just in general. Gonna try it out next week, never used this yeast

I used sacch trois a few batches ago, keeping everything else in the recipe the same. I didn't use any temperature control and it got up to ~72 degrees during fermentation. Finished a little drier than Conan and imparted a slight bubblegum flavor, both of which were pleasant. However I found the hops didn't pop as much as when I use 1318 or Conan which is my main complaint. I don't think you can go wrong with temperature, I'm actually curious to try it again in the summer when ambient temperature is a lot higher.
 
My guess is that it is done fermenting or close to it. 2 packs of dry yeast is a lot and 75 degrees is on the warm side..... so, I am thinking the yeast ripped through it.

I would doubt that the yeast dropped out or that you would need to add more yeast.

Add dry hops as you planned.

The biggest concern will be that the temps hit the high side of what you want and could result in some stronger esters or possibly some off flavors from fermenting a touch hot.

Ideally, you keep the temps down closer to the 68-70 range. But, I don't know that it got warm enough to "ruin" anything. Just have to wait and see.

Room temperature was ideal at 18C but fermantation went too vigorous that it jumped to 24C. My expected fg was 1.019 or 1.020, I got 1.024 yesterday and dropped my second dry hop charge. Planning to cold crash for a few days and bottle it wednesday.
 
Room temperature was ideal at 18C but fermantation went too vigorous that it jumped to 24C. My expected fg was 1.019 or 1.020, I got 1.024 yesterday and dropped my second dry hop charge. Planning to cold crash for a few days and bottle it wednesday.

If it is still at 1.024 I would let it sit at room temp. How long has it been since brew day??
 
Ok, I'll just stick with the gypsum and CaCla.

Has anyone attempted this with New Zealand hops. I may brew up another batch this weekend and would like to use some. Just trying to figure out if I should use only New Zealand or mix with other more traditional hops or what... I'd really like to make a beer that's close to TG Zeelander or the original Alpine Nelson that has that nice white wine taste to it

@edcoffey did motueka and nelson is his hop hands clone

i live in nz, and i would consider using a combo of 3 (nelson, motueka and Kohatu) you couldthrow a bit of rakau in there, but im not a big fan of it TBH (personal choice)
alternatively a 50/50 blend of nelson / galaxy is a good mix for something with some international hops in it
 
I have brewed two different batches of this (one per the original recipe and then a session version with diff hops). However, I just recently got my hands on my first commercial version of this style. I got three different Hoof Hearted cans and was shocked at how sweet and almost vanilla-y each of their beers finished. Mine have a crisp, dry bite as a finish. I am not totally sold on which I prefer.

Any thoughts on how to get this perceived sweetness? Simply bump the mash tump north of 155? I have also read about lactose. Has anyone else drank Hoof Hearted's IPA's and agree with my perception of sweetness?
 
There's been a lot of talk about this beer and oxidation. Should I avoid pitching a 1318 starter that hasn't been decanted with this style? Don't want to add even more oxidation if it's an issue.
 
There's been a lot of talk about this beer and oxidation. Should I avoid pitching a 1318 starter that hasn't been decanted with this style? Don't want to add even more oxidation if it's an issue.

I don't think so. Don't you aerate or oxygenate your wort before pitching?

My general practice as of late is to oxygenate the wort for 30 seconds with pure O2 and then pitch an active, 1L starter that's been spinning for 12 -20 hours. I've had great results with this practice.

Yesterday's batch was bubbling and krausen had formed across the whole surface within four hours.
 
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