New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Taket_al_Tauro]

"Oxygen is a real enemy of beer, accelerating staling and adding off-flavors, and bottle conditioned beers have a living advantage in the bottle that will take up small amounts of residual oxygen that may have been picked up in the packaging process (from the air in the tubing used to transfer into the bottle or oxygen in the head space air within the bottle itself)."

I read somewhere in another forum a citation by Garret Oliver on this topic. Basically he was saying that active yeast will indeed consume O2 introduced during the packaging process. If not all at least a portion of it, depending on how careful the brewer was at packaging. But it will pick up very little from the headspace air.

This also reflects my own experience. The headspace air may not be a problem for non-hoppy styles, but it definitely causes some oxidation to dry hopped beers. Also when bottle conditioning. It mainly resulted in a darkening of colour, coupled with some loss of hop flavour/aroma (although that was way more subtle), and a somewhat increased sweetness/maltiness perception.
I noticed that quite clearly on a west coastish type IPA and a hoppy pilsner (trough side by side comparisons between headspace-O2-purged and non purged bottle variants). Didn't brew a neipa yet, but I guess this effect would be even more severe on this style.

 

[beervoid]

I think there may be some truth to yeast bringing down hop oils when dropping, based on my personal observations. But if you don't cold crash and ferment on a 10 day schedule, your beer will still have plenty of yeast in suspension.

I just use a large glass and get all the yeast on the bottom of the bottle into the glass when drinking. I find it adds more flavor to the beer. The 1318 yeast has a nice fruity flavor.

For an imperial stout, I don't want the yeast. But for NEIPA's I think it improves the flavor.

I want to try dropping the yeast before dry hopping next time to see the difference in flavor. That's what makes this fun

Its not good for stability to have yeast in the beer, the pro's do everything they can to get as much out as possible. It muddles the flavor and perhaps fresh its not as bad as when the beer gets older.
If you dry hop enough sure you can dry hop during fermentation and still have enough flavor but its not economic.

I think there is an exception to be made for certain beer styles like Belgium beers... But def no yeast in a NEIPA for me.

 

[MaCheFai]

3-4oz/gal is TOTAL hops not just whirlpool or dryhop. I am at 2.5 - 3 total. Sapwood Cellars is at 1.2oz kettle & 2.1 oz dryhop / gal. These guys are the homebrew/science based NEIPA gurus.

Michael may be a well rounded and experienced brewer that has sours down. And Scott can clearly brew too and really dig into some numbers like nobody's business to document and analyze his findings, but I wouldn't go so far as to call them, "NEIPA gurus". No shade, they both seem very bright and passionate when it comes to brewing. But they're doing the same **** we are! They try a little this, they try a little that, taste, tweak, repeat. And I am super grateful for them to share their learnings and experiences. A perfect example is their video of the NEIPA that turned out a pretty dark color with very little hop aroma, but it's great. They take you through their process, their surprises and are honest about everything. It's great they share and give back their learnings to the brewing community. I recommend you check them out. I found the yeast discussion particularly interesting. And for that, I tip my hat. But until they have a beer up on the board with the likes of Treehouse, Hillfarmstead, Trillium, etc, I just wouldn't go that far. I think they're learning and experimenting just like the rest of us, and I'm grateful to learn alongside them.

 

[WBCo]

I never cold crashed because I was worried about suck back/oxidation. I've begun fermenting in kegs my last 5 batches and now can easily cold crash, and I've noticed my flavor/aroma seems enhanced when I crash, then transfer off the yeast and dry hop. Will be my SOP going forward. I've read various articles theorizing that yeast floccing will strip out dry hop oils. YMMV

And that is why it is so important to dryhop after you've dropped the yeast out and removed the bulk of it from the fermentor. My beers improved immensely when I was able to mimic professional processes with a conical, temp control, and the ability to transfer with completely purged lines.

Michael may be a well rounded and experienced brewer that has sours down. And Scott can clearly brew too and really dig into some numbers like nobody's business to document and analyze his findings, but I wouldn't go so far as to call them, "NEIPA gurus". No shade, they both seem very bright and passionate when it comes to brewing. But they're doing the same poopy we are! They try a little this, they try a little that, taste, tweak, repeat. And I am super grateful for them to share their learnings and experiences. A perfect example is their video of the NEIPA that turned out a pretty dark color with very little hop aroma, but it's great. They take you through their process, their surprises and are honest about everything. It's great they share and give back their learnings to the brewing community. I recommend you check them out. I found the yeast discussion particularly interesting. And for that, I tip my hat. But until they have a beer up on the board with the likes of Treehouse, Hillfarmstead, Trillium, etc, I just wouldn't go that far. I think they're learning and experimenting just like the rest of us, and I'm grateful to learn alongside them.

I have been to Trillium, Treehouse, Hill Farmstead, Alchemist, Sapwood Cellars, and many others. I can tell you that Michael and Scott's beers are very good and on par with the other heavy hitters. They have their own house flavor, as all of them do, and as a young brewery they are still experimenting, but I don't think that is a fault in any way. If any brewer is done experimenting that means they don't think their beer can improve above where it is currently and stagnation is not a redeemable quality, in my opinion anyway.

 

[stickyfinger]

• And that is why it is so important to dryhop after you've dropped the yeast out and removed the bulk of it from the fermentor.

For those of you dropping yeast before dry hopping, I have a few questions:

-drop temp to 50s-60, wait a few days and then dry hop?
-drop temp to freezing, wait a few days, warm up and then dry hop?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg, prime and spund?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg and force carb?

Anyone have any comparisons on these methods, or what seems to work for you. I wasn't able to do my test of dropping the yeast vs not this week, but I want to do it as soon as I get things under control.

 

[couchsending]

It all depends on your yeast.

Kimmich recommends 45 for Conan
Lawson does 55/58 for 1056/001
Chad Yak from CS does only 2-3c for his yeast
LAIII I do 55ish
1098 60 works
Melvin goes from 70 -> 60 for 001
Aslin I think said 55 for what they’re using.

Give it 24 hours at that temp, harvest as much yeast as possible. I usually Let it warm back up to 60-63 during fist day of DH. I know quite a few brewers who will split the dry hop into two additions even after fermentation. Theory there is that the first dose of hops will create additional flocculation and so by splitting you get more potency out of the second dose as there’s even less yeast in suspension.

 

[SRJHops]

I would have to believe that that would be in reference to the malt aspect of the beer and not the hops...not to mention that the eventual flock of the yeast in the bottle would pull down alot of your hop flavor down with it...and I'm also pretty sure no one is aging there n.e's in bottles for any extended period of time for flavors to develop

Interesting point about pulling down the hop oils. Of course, if true, a good swirl would fix that, right?

As for aging, you are correct, not for NEIPA's. But I have noticed that my bottle conditioned NEIPA's taste best after at least 5 weeks in the bottle. Not seeing much evidence of oxidation until about 10 weeks. I am curious if people who are kegging find their NEIPA's taste great right away, or need some time in the keg for the flavors to develop?

 

[Dgallo]

For those of you dropping yeast before dry hopping, I have a few questions:

-drop temp to 50s-60, wait a few days and then dry hop?
-drop temp to freezing, wait a few days, warm up and then dry hop?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg, prime and spund?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg and force carb?

Anyone have any comparisons on these methods, or what seems to work for you. I wasn't able to do my test of dropping the yeast vs not this week, but I want to do it as soon as I get things under control.

My last beer I dropped to 40 and held for 24hrs. Warmed back up to room temp which was 66. Dry hoped 3 days under pressure. Then cold crashed again and tranferred to keg to force carb. Elevated the hop character. But that’s the only process Ive tried

 

[VirginiaHops1]

For those of you dropping yeast before dry hopping, I have a few questions:

-drop temp to 50s-60, wait a few days and then dry hop?
-drop temp to freezing, wait a few days, warm up and then dry hop?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg, prime and spund?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg and force carb?

Anyone have any comparisons on these methods, or what seems to work for you. I wasn't able to do my test of dropping the yeast vs not this week, but I want to do it as soon as I get things under control.

I lowered temp to 55-60 to drop the yeast and dry hopped in the 60s, and then force carbed in the serving keg. That worked well for me. I actually built a spunding valve and wanted to try using that but haven't gotten around to it.

 

[SRJHops]

3-4oz/gal is TOTAL hops not just whirlpool or dryhop. I am at 2.5 - 3 total. Sapwood Cellars is at 1.2oz kettle & 2.1 oz dryhop / gal. These guys are the homebrew/science based NEIPA gurus.

Whoa, they must be wizards at Sapwood! If I used 3 ounces of hops in a beer it would barely even be a pale ale, much less an IPA.

It does appear they like Cryo hops at Sapwood: Cryovolcano – 7.9% ABV: Citra and Mosaic are two of our favorite hops. Together they provide an intense aroma of green pineapple, melon, and grapefruit. 25% of our 4.4 lbs per barrel triple-dry-hopping was with Citra and Mosaic Cryo.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I am curious if people who are kegging find their NEIPA's taste great right away, or need some time in the keg for the flavors to develop?

Mine taste good right away. I give them about a week to carb up. I don't really notice much change in flavor in the keg but we've been finishing them within a few weeks since they're small batches and my wife loves the NEIPAs. Last batch was gone in about 1.5 weeks(2.5 counting carb/condition period). I may need bigger batches

 

[WBCo]

For those of you dropping yeast before dry hopping, I have a few questions:

-drop temp to 50s-60, wait a few days and then dry hop?
-drop temp to freezing, wait a few days, warm up and then dry hop?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg, prime and spund?
-after dry hop, transfer to keg and force carb?

Anyone have any comparisons on these methods, or what seems to work for you. I wasn't able to do my test of dropping the yeast vs not this week, but I want to do it as soon as I get things under control.

I drop temp to mid to low 50's for 48 hrs, harvest yeast, warm back up to mid 60's and dryhop for 48-72 hrs.

After dryhop, I transfer to keg(s) and force carb with the 'low and slow' method. I hook the keg up to about 10 psi and don't touch it for a week. By about day 10 it's carbed nicely and ready to enjoy.

Mine taste good right away. I give them about a week to carb up. I don't really notice much change in flavor in the keg but we've been finishing them within a few weeks since they're small batches and my wife loves the NEIPAs. Last batch was gone in about 1.5 weeks(2.5 counting carb/condition period). I may need bigger batches

I do 5 or 10 gallon batches, so mine last a LITTLE longer than yours, but not by much! I'm also a fan of letting them carb up over a week or so.

 

[couchsending]

If you’re keeping oxygen at bay any hoppy beer shouldn’t degrade in a cold keg for months at a time. If it is you need to look at your process and adjust.

 

[MaCheFai]

It all depends on your yeast.

Kimmich recommends 45 for Conan
Lawson does 55/58 for 1056/001
Chad Yak from CS does only 2-3c for his yeast
LAIII I do 55ish
1098 60 works
Melvin goes from 70 -> 60 for 001
Aslin I think said 55 for what they’re using.

Give it 24 hours at that temp, harvest as much yeast as possible. I usually Let it warm back up to 60-63 during fist day of DH. I know quite a few brewers who will split the dry hop into two additions even after fermentation. Theory there is that the first dose of hops will create additional flocculation and so by splitting you get more potency out of the second dose as there’s even less yeast in suspension.

Wow, this is great info, thanks for sharing! As for the second dry hop post drop, is there any benefit to this method over keg hopping?

 

[couchsending]

I don’t see any reason to keg hop. If you’re good at keep o2 pickup to a minimum you don’t need it. Personally I really don’t enjoy the flavor/aspect that it contributes to the final beer.

 

[doogie]

Some have reported grassy flavors when having hops in the beer for extended periods. I personally believe it depends on the hop variety and the amount of hops used as I have not experienced it with a 2 ounce keg hop.

 

[marchuk96]

Interesting point about pulling down the hop oils. Of course, if true, a good swirl would fix that, right?

As for aging, you are correct, not for NEIPA's. But I have noticed that my bottle conditioned NEIPA's taste best after at least 5 weeks in the bottle. Not seeing much evidence of oxidation until about 10 weeks. I am curious if people who are kegging find their NEIPA's taste great right away, or need some time in the keg for the flavors to develop?

Interesting point about pulling down the hop oils. Of course, if true, a good swirl would fix that, right?

As for aging, you are correct, not for NEIPA's. But I have noticed that my bottle conditioned NEIPA's taste best after at least 5 weeks in the bottle. Not seeing much evidence of oxidation until about 10 weeks. I am curious if people who are kegging find their NEIPA's taste great right away, or need some time in the keg for the flavors to develop?

A good swirl would just resuspend shotty spent yeast into ur beer...would there be hope oils in with it...most likely but u would also be getting those oils mixed with the spent yeast flavor...If that's ur thing by all means go for it...I keg and my beer usually tastes great from the day I keg it to the last drop...the first few days might be a little hot with hops and then it settles in and for me I find it to get cleaner as time goes on...by that I mean hop flavor is more crisp and isn't muddled with any yeasty flavors...did some of that oil potentially flock with the yeast after all that time...probably but to no loss to flavor and aroma...and remeber kegged beer is kept cold and oxygen free the entire time...are you chilling all your bottles once carbed?..or are you just leaving them at room temp until ur ready to drink some and then put those 1 or 2 or however many into ur fridge to chill and then drink?...guaranteed there is also no one shaking there kegs to resuspend the yeast and hop oils from the bottom back into the beer...for this style the same would apply for bottled versions

 

[marchuk96]

Whoa, they must be wizards at Sapwood! If I used 3 ounces of hops in a beer it would barely even be a pale ale, much less an IPA.

It does appear they like Cryo hops at Sapwood: Cryovolcano – 7.9% ABV: Citra and Mosaic are two of our favorite hops. Together they provide an intense aroma of green pineapple, melon, and grapefruit. 25% of our 4.4 lbs per barrel triple-dry-hopping was with Citra and Mosaic Cryo.

He is talking about oz per gal with those numbers ...not total oz of hops used in beer

 

[Jayjay1976]

I've been wanting to brew a NEIPA for a while; unfortunately I'm not set up for kegging yet and fears of oxidation are enough to avoid IPAs altogether until I build a keezer. How to commercial breweries manage to successfully package hoppy styles without oxidation?

 

[stickyfinger]

It all depends on your yeast.

Kimmich recommends 45 for Conan
Lawson does 55/58 for 1056/001
Chad Yak from CS does only 2-3c for his yeast
LAIII I do 55ish
1098 60 works
Melvin goes from 70 -> 60 for 001
Aslin I think said 55 for what they’re using.

Give it 24 hours at that temp, harvest as much yeast as possible. I usually Let it warm back up to 60-63 during fist day of DH. I know quite a few brewers who will split the dry hop into two additions even after fermentation. Theory there is that the first dose of hops will create additional flocculation and so by splitting you get more potency out of the second dose as there’s even less yeast in suspension.

very interesting. cant wait to do a comparison. have you tried fining and then dry hopping?

 

[SRJHops]

He is talking about oz per gal with those numbers ...not total oz of hops used in beer

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

 

[stickyfinger]

I don’t see any reason to keg hop. If you’re good at keep o2 pickup to a minimum you don’t need it. Personally I really don’t enjoy the flavor/aspect that it contributes to the final beer.

some people like the taste of hops added to the keg when it has cold carbonated beer in it. I also don’t enjoy that flavor. I think it’s a personal preference thing.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I've been wanting to brew a NEIPA for a while; unfortunately I'm not set up for kegging yet and fears of oxidation are enough to avoid IPAs altogether until I build a keezer. How to commercial breweries manage to successfully package hoppy styles without oxidation?

Expensive canning systems that do a good job of limiting O2 during packaging

 

[Eltes]

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

The recipe by Scott Janish that featured in BYO lately had ~10 oz of hops in whirlpool and dry hopping.

 

[Dgallo]

Are you sure? We can let him answer, but he seemed to make a point about 2.5-3 ounces TOTAL.

Now, if it is 2.5-3 ounces per gallon, then sign me up! Everyone seems to think I am using too much, but my best NEIPA so far had 3 ounces per gallon. And I'm tempted to go a bit higher or use cryo for my next batch. (My current batch has 2.35 ounces per gallon, and while it is still maturing, my guess is it will be less flavorful -- but we'll see.)

Reread his post, he clearly states in both oz/gallon as total hop usage.

3-4oz/gal is TOTAL hops not just whirlpool or dryhop. I am at 2.5 - 3 total. Sapwood Cellars is at 1.2oz kettle & 2.1 oz dryhop / gal.

 

[SRJHops]

A good swirl would just resuspend shotty spent yeast into ur beer...would there be hope oils in with it...most likely but u would also be getting those oils mixed with the spent yeast flavor...If that's ur thing by all means go for it...I keg and my beer usually tastes great from the day I keg it to the last drop...the first few days might be a little hot with hops and then it settles in and for me I find it to get cleaner as time goes on...by that I mean hop flavor is more crisp and isn't muddled with any yeasty flavors...did some of that oil potentially flock with the yeast after all that time...probably but to no loss to flavor and aroma...and remeber kegged beer is kept cold and oxygen free the entire time...are you chilling all your bottles once carbed?..or are you just leaving them at room temp until ur ready to drink some and then put those 1 or 2 or however many into ur fridge to chill and then drink?...guaranteed there is also no one shaking there kegs to resuspend the yeast and hop oils from the bottom back into the beer...for this style the same would apply for bottled versions

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

 

[SRJHops]

Reread his post, he clearly states in both oz/gallon as total hop usage.[/QU

So total of 2.5 - 3 ounces, right? Not 2.5-3 ounces per gallon?

It was confusing when it said 3-4 oz/gallon is Total. That reads as 3-4 ounces per gallon... but TOTAL modifies that..

 

[lupulinaddict]

It all depends on your yeast.

Kimmich recommends 45 for Conan
Lawson does 55/58 for 1056/001
Chad Yak from CS does only 2-3c for his yeast
LAIII I do 55ish
1098 60 works
Melvin goes from 70 -> 60 for 001
Aslin I think said 55 for what they’re using.

Give it 24 hours at that temp, harvest as much yeast as possible. I usually Let it warm back up to 60-63 during fist day of DH. I know quite a few brewers who will split the dry hop into two additions even after fermentation. Theory there is that the first dose of hops will create additional flocculation and so by splitting you get more potency out of the second dose as there’s even less yeast in suspension.

Thanks for posting this. Taking a screenshot for future use.

What is the reason for going to these cooler temps and then back up? Wouldn’t crashing first remove more yeast? Ferment, crash, harvest, then back to 50-60 range?

Now what do I do with kveik? [emoji848]

 

[NickC]

So total of 2.5 - 3 ounces, right? Not 2.5-3 ounces per gallon?

It was confusing when it said 3-4 oz/gallon is Total. That reads as 3-4 ounces per gallon... but TOTAL modifies that..

Total for whirlpool and dryhop... per gal

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks for posting this. Taking a screenshot for future use.

What is the reason for going to these cooler temps and then back up? Wouldn’t crashing first remove more yeast? Ferment, crash, harvest, then back to 50-60 range?

Now what do I do with kveik? [emoji848]

Don’t want to steal @couchsending question, but warming it before dryhopping will help with extraction time. Extraction time and temp have a positive correlation.

 

[lupulinaddict]

Don’t want to steal @couchsending question, but warming it before dryhopping will help with extraction time. Extraction time and temp have a positive correlation.

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

Probably because getting into the 50s is good enough to drop ale yeast once fermentation is done so why spend the extra time going all the way down to near freezing and then back up. Commercial brewers are dealing with massive amounts of liquid that take a lot of energy to heat or cool. As homebrewers it's much easier to crash lower, but not sure it's necessary.

 

[Dgallo]

Agreed. But why the warmer temps to drop the yeast instead of a hard crash?

Got you. The yeast can drop at warmer temps so it speeds up the process. Easier to drop and warm back up 12-20 degrees than to go all the to mid/low 30s bad back up. Also the negative pressure or suction is much great at the lower temps so oxygen can be a bigger issue

 

[lupulinaddict]

Thanks guys. I figured it was related to a time/energy for breweries, but thought I’d ask to see if I was missing something.

 

[marchuk96]

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

Fair enough. I guess I always figure I'm drinking a fair amount of suspended yeast and hops and don't worry much about it.

I just read that Heady Topper (and maybe all/many NEIPAs?) will drop clear after a bit... So what is dropping in their beer? Isn't it yeast and hop particulates?

Interesting to hear that kegged NEIPA's are ready to drink so fast. Certainly not the case with bottled conditioned, at least not in my experience.

I am indeed letting the bottles carbonate and blend at 70 degrees. I only put them in the fridge the day before I drink them. I am fascinated that they taste best after 5-6 weeks in the bottle. Best guess is the active yeast is scrubbing the O2, and somehow the hops become more expressive too.

Read this...I disagree with the good news results solely based on my old findings in the past when I used to bottle..take it for what its worth....https://www.beercraftr.com/bottle-conditioning-new-england-ipa/

 

[optimal_pizza]

Here's my attempt with some inspiration from the @Dgallo recipe a few pages back. That Caramunich addition really brings out the orange-y color. Unfortunately I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke
80% Golden Promise
8% White Wheat
8% Flaked Wheat
4% Caramunich I
Mosaic / Citra / Strata at flameout / 150 degree whirlpool / dryhop
Imperial Juice

 

[SRJHops]

Read this...I disagree with the good news results solely based on my old findings in the past when I used to bottle..take it for what its worth....https://www.beercraftr.com/bottle-conditioning-new-england-ipa/

Good reading -- thanks for sharing. As I've mentioned, I'm obsessed with limiting oxygen exposure. I only open the fermenter twice -- once on Day 2 for the dry hop during active fermentation, and again 3 days before bottling for the second dry hop (and purge with gas). I bottle right from the fermenter into bombers with sugar tabs.

I can't tell if the author of the article did all of those steps, but something tells me he didn't. I do disagree with him on the need to chill the bottles so fast. In my experience using the techniques to limit oxygen exposure, it's not necessary. I don't find that my NEIPA's are degrading that fast. I keep them warm and put one in the fridge each day. My newest one is on week 3 in the bottle and it's only now starting to get good. My bet is it will peak in 3 more weeks.

It certainly is possible that my beers are a little darker, as the Brulsophy experiment showed, but I can't taste oxidation until well after 2 months. Before I became obsessed with limiting oxygen, I made several brown/grey NEIPA's!

 

[marchuk96]

Here's my attempt with some inspiration from the @Dgallo recipe a few pages back. That Caramunich addition really brings out the orange-y color. Unfortunately I only got a few pours before my picnic tap broke
80% Golden Promise
8% White Wheat
8% Flaked Wheat
4% Caramunich I
Mosaic / Citra / Strata at flameout / 150 degree whirlpool / dryhop
Imperial Juice

View attachment 619518

Beautiful!!

 

[MaCheFai]

I don’t see any reason to keg hop. If you’re good at keep o2 pickup to a minimum you don’t need it. Personally I really don’t enjoy the flavor/aspect that it contributes to the final beer.

I've done both and don't really notice much(if any) difference/gain to keg hopping. And my kegs never last more than a week, so not worried about any off flavors from the hops.

I was referring to your previous post though about dry hopping after dropping the yeast. Seems like that's pretty similar to just keg hopping, but saving some time and possibly O2 exposure. Unless I'm missing something to your process. So was curious to get a better understanding to how you're suggesting to DH after dropping out.

 

[couchsending]

I've done both and don't really notice much(if any) difference/gain to keg hopping. And my kegs never last more than a week, so not worried about any off flavors from the hops.

I was referring to your previous post though about dry hopping after dropping the yeast. Seems like that's pretty similar to just keg hopping, but saving some time and possibly O2 exposure. Unless I'm missing something to your process. So was curious to get a better understanding to how you're suggesting to DH after dropping out.

I cool to 55/60, wait 24 hours, pull yeast, add dry hops with a funnel through the 1.5” TC port on the top of my conical. Purge headspace. Wait 4 days, cool as low as possible while still maintaining head pressure, wait 48 hours and dump yeast/hops a few times over those 48 hours. Transfer to a keg and carbonate either by krausening or force carb.