No fermentation

[Potsy]

Hi Guys,

Me again, I'm sorry i've started loads of posts on these forums in just the 2 days since I started my first brew. I'm really excited about it all but don't know much about the process and every 10 minutes a new question pops into my head, I always try and find the answer online before I make a post and bother anyone but this has got me stumped.

Beer has been in the fermenting bucket for over 24 hours now but nothing seems to be happening, it's stagnent. I don't have an airlock on my fermenting bucket but I did crack the lid just to have a peep, it's as still as a pond. There's a bit of froth on top but not much and it doesn't seem to be doing anything.

 

[desiderata]

I'd wait a little longer before you start worrying (did I just say the "w" word?). No, really, if you didn't do a starter (even with liquid yeast), then it could take longer than 24 hours for fermentation to start. wait another 24 hours or so, then maybe think about repitching? See if more experienced members will make any suggestions, first though. Bottom line: don't worry!

Couple questions.
What kind of beer are you brewing?
" " yeast did you use?
Is the froth the same look from when you poured the wort into the bucket or is it different?
Why no airlock? I'd suggest one, they're cheap and easy to use.
Peeking in can introduce bacteria.

 

[Evan!]

I second desiderata's questions...that would help. Also, what are your fermentation temps? I'm assuming you didn't make a starter.

I've had a smack-pak liquid yeast take 3 full days to start before. That batch was the reason I started doing yeast starters the day before brewing. You want to cut down on your lag time (the time between pitching and fermentation start) as much as you can...because the longer it sits, the more chance it has of getting infected, and/or producing off-flavors.

If you haven't seen anything after 3 days, repitch...

 

[RoaringBrewer]

Get an airlock, use it. Peeking in and trying to judge if fermentation has started is a tough task. If there is a layer of "froth" (krauesen) on top, its possible it HAS started...

A sealed bucket and an airlock would confirm this. And the wort would be much safer from contamination if sealed completely and not "peeked" at.

 

[Potsy]

Okay, thanks for your comments guys, I will use an airlock in future, I've got one on order now but won't be able to fit it until I start my next batch. The only way you can buy a fermentation bucket with an airlock over here is if you buy a secondary one. Looks like it'll be a DIY installation.

I will resist the urge to look inside my bucket and just keep my fingers crossed.

 

[Potsy]

I've just checked it and there's some blotchy marks on the lid when I look down on it so somethings been happening in there.

How important is it to re-hydrate your yeast, i've only just read about that but as I was following the instructions on my beer kit I didn't do it it just stirred in the grains?

 

[Torchiest]

I've just checked it and there's some blotchy marks on the lid when I look down on it so somethings been happening in there.

How important is it to re-hydrate your yeast, i've only just read about that but as I was following the instructions on my beer kit I didn't do it it just stirred in the grains?

The first batch I made, I rehydrated my dry yeast before pitching, and it was going strong within twelve hours. The second and third batches I made, I just dumped my dry yeast in the wort, and it was going strong within twelve hours. On my fourth batch, I made a yeast starter with liquid yeast three days in advance, and dumped it in the wort, and it was going strong within twelve hours. My understanding is that the yeast works the vast majority of the time and you really don't need to worry about it too much, although I did the first couple times myself.

 

[david_42]

By the way, that froth is called a krausen & it is a positive sign that the yeast are happy.

 

[Flint]

I too, have just started my first brew ever. Although I may have killed some, if not most of my yeast because I forgot to ice my wort. It was still about 90F when I pitched my yeast but I have a nice thick krauesen on it so I'm not too worried.



Wait...I can make beer?!

 

[Torchiest]

I'm pretty sure anything under 90º is fine, although of course it's preferable to get your wort a little cooler than that. I usually pitch my yeast when the wort is around 80º, and I've had no problems.

 

[Flint]

Here's a question that I was curious about. Is it necessary to use dry malt base if you're already using a liquid malt extract? I used three pounds of light liquid extract and am expecting about 4 gallons of beer. Am I going to be disappointed?



Wait...I can make beer?!

 

[desiderata]

I've just checked it and there's some blotchy marks on the lid when I look down on it so somethings been happening in there.

How important is it to re-hydrate your yeast, i've only just read about that but as I was following the instructions on my beer kit I didn't do it it just stirred in the grains?

Good. Looks like the yeast is active. No worries, then.

Rehydrating the yeast is important for dry yeast, as it will verify whether or not the yeast is good, so you don't waste your time pitching it, only to have nothing happen and then have to repitch a few days later.
As long as you aren't using the yeast from the bottom of the lid on an extract can, the yeast should be fine. But doesn't hurt to verify.
BYW, beer kit instructions seem very generic in order to keep things simple. Most beginners use the kits, so I think the kit manufacturers don't want to make it too fancy, thereby discouraging beginning brewers from continuing the hobby because of difficulty. Therefore, keep this in mind: you can get good beer by following these instructions, but you can get great beer by following tips from the "experienced" members of this forum (I'm low on this list, BTW). So, it may be more troublesome, but as you get better, deviate from the kit instructions and learn more techniques from reading posts here.
Cheers

 

[desiderata]

Here's a question that I was curious about. Is it necessary to use dry malt base if you're already using a liquid malt extract? I used three pounds of light liquid extract and am expecting about 4 gallons of beer. Am I going to be disappointed?

Probably shoulda started this as a separate post. Anyway, you are going to have a low alcohol content and more watery beer with that amount of extract, even with 4 gallons. It should still be fine, though. Maybe use double that next time.

Oh, you can use only liquid, only dry, or both. Just keep in mind that the liquid extract is about 20% water, so you'll get more malt (fermentables) with an equal amount of dry extract as you would with an equal amount of liquid extract.

So, 1 lbs. of liquid = only .8 lbs. of dry.