New Batch .... New Problems

[Chocolatey_Stoutz]

Hello my brewing brethren. I just finished my third boil, and encountered new problems yet again.

Just the facts ma'am: Brewed a switchblade jack pumpkin ale (dark red in color) extract kit offered by Jasper's Home brewing at boomchugaloog.com. I have only used their kits, but even lacking any frame of reference, I am sure they have the best quality kits out there.

Problem #1: I inadvertently boiled for an extra 1/2 hour or so. I typically keep my wort on the heat for a couple of hours sum total because grains are steeped for 30-40 minutes and my crappy electric stove requires about 1/2 hour to get to boiling while strattling a big eye and a little eye. I've already invested about $400 in this hobby, just for the ability to brew extract kits. If I can stop making mistakes and make some good beer, I'll likely continue with the hobby. I'll then upgrade to an all grain kit and buy a turkey fryer.

Problem #2: This didn't happen with my previous two stout kits, but I encountered this green tinted, brownish sludge at the bottom of my pot that tasted and smelled so intensely bitter, it could only be the melted down hop pellets. Why didn't these pellets blend into solution with the rest of the wort?

Problem #3: The wort smells and taste bitter. This was certainly not the case with my two stouts.


Problem #4: I don't have a wort chiller and my ginormous brew pot will not fit into the kitchen sink for an ice bath. So, I am forced to wait 1/2 a day to picth yeast. Could this create any problems?

A question: My cheapo brew pot is scorched and has deposits permanently embedded in the bottom of the pot. I can't get it clean. Also, the brew pot was tarnished when I tried to clean with sanitizer. Can this impart unwanted flavors?

I have asked a lot of questions on here and I really appreciate all of the helpful advice provided by the members of our brewing community. I am so thankful for the knowledge base this site affords.

Right now I am just discouraged because I have literally invested several hundred dollars over the last 4-6 weeks, and two of my three batches don't seem to be doing too well. When executed properly, does homebrewed beer typically taste better than that purchased on the market?






Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

 

[juggaleo]

I'm new too.. but I might help with problem one. I found on my electric stove the pot has to be covered in order to reach a boil within eternity.. once it does and I start adding hops I open the lid a half inch to watch for boil over. As far as if its worth it.. my friends could not tell my third batch from a store bought ipa.. that was pretty rewarding

 

[juggaleo]

Not to mention it got me drunk

 

[jmh286]

Hello my brewing brethren. I just finished my third boil, and encountered new problems yet again.

Just the facts ma'am: Brewed a switchblade jack pumpkin ale (dark red in color) extract kit offered by Jasper's Home brewing at boomchugaloog.com. I have only used their kits, but even lacking any frame of reference, I am sure they have the best quality kits out there.

Problem #1: I inadvertently boiled for an extra 1/2 hour or so. I typically keep my wort on the heat for a couple of hours sum total because grains are steeped for 30-40 minutes and my crappy electric stove requires about 1/2 hour to get to boiling while strattling a big eye and a little eye. I've already invested about $400 in this hobby, just for the ability to brew extract kits. If I can stop making mistakes and make some good beer, I'll likely continue with the hobby. I'll then upgrade to an all grain kit and buy a turkey fryer.

Problem #2: This didn't happen with my previous two stout kits, but I encountered this green tinted, brownish sludge at the bottom of my pot that tasted and smelled so intensely bitter, it could only be the melted down hop pellets. Why didn't these pellets blend into solution with the rest of the wort?

Problem #3: The wort smells and taste bitter. This was certainly not the case with my two stouts.


Problem #4: I don't have a wort chiller and my ginormous brew pot will not fit into the kitchen sink for an ice bath. So, I am forced to wait 1/2 a day to picth yeast. Could this create any problems?

A question: My cheapo brew pot is scorched and has deposits permanently embedded in the bottom of the pot. I can't get it clean. Also, the brew pot was tarnished when I tried to clean with sanitizer. Can this impart unwanted flavors?

I have asked a lot of questions on here and I really appreciate all of the helpful advice provided by the members of our brewing community. I am so thankful for the knowledge base this site affords.

Right now I am just discouraged because I have literally invested several hundred dollars over the last 4-6 weeks, and two of my three batches don't seem to be doing too well. When executed properly, does homebrewed beer typically taste better than that purchased on the market?






Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

I'll answer you in order...

Problem 1: This isn't a huge deal. You might get a slightly higher hop utilization, but nothing that will drastically change the taste of your beer.

Problem 2: That's hot break material and hops. Get some hop socks to help reduce that. I got two nylon bags at Lowe's for a few bucks and have been using them for a long time. It isn't actually a problem, but I like the easier cleanup at the end of the brew day.

Problem 3: You made a dark amber ale. Let the yeast do its thing and then judge. Trying pre-fermented wort gives a very small picture of the beer that will be made. Time is your friend...use it.

Problem 4: GET A WORT CHILLER. As far as the cost, if you're even slightly handy, you can make one for about 30 bucks and can buy a pre-made one for 70. If that is too much, buy a tub big enough to put your kettle in. I have one that I use for cooling during fermentation that was 15 bucks. It isn't going to kill your beer letting it cool down that way, but the sooner you can get the yeast in and remove the ability of contamination, the better.

Your questions: If you can't scrape it or scratch it off while cleaning, it probably won't effect your beer. Is your pot stainless steel or aluminum? You can absolutely make high quality beer in this hobby. I do all-grain now, but even my early day extract beers were better than most store bought. Don't be discouraged, do your research, take your time, and make some beer!

 

[EPS]

Also if you've already spent 400$. Goto youtube and search how to make a wort chiller. This is how i just made mine and i got all the parts at lowes for 36$ compared to the 70 they wanted online. And its pretty easy to make will solve your cooling the wort issues. I was amazed how fast my wort cooled with the chiller and how much easier it makes things.

 

[juggaleo]

I went the 8 dollar plastic tub ice bath chilling method.. works pretty well.. have you tasted your beer yet

 

[insanim8er]

It's important to get your wort to pitching temp as soon as possible for a few reasons. 1) contamination is far more susceptible in lower temp wort. 2) you will have flaws in the beer by slow cooling. The proteins that cause haze when the beer is cold will not drop out if the temp drops slow.

 

[brewbobaggins]

There is growing support for no-chill brewing (doing exactly what you did). DMS, protein break and other potential issues are supposedly not an problem on the homebrew level, but instead are so on the commercial level. And while contamination/sanitation should always be on the forefront of every homebrewer's mind, I don't see a reason why no-chill brewing would interfere with that.

There are plenty of award-winning no-chill brews.

And please, RDWHAHB.