Need help increasing hop flavor and aroma without hop pellet taste

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Jesse Runowski

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Hey Everyone,

I've been having the same problem over and over again with my west coast and new england IPAs. I can’t seem to get the flavor and aroma I’m looking for without getting a hoppy / astringent aftertaste. I’ve adjusted my recipes and tried different techniques but they all end with the same result. Very low to almost non-existent flavor from the hops, usually a great aroma though, with a “nasty” hop pellet after taste. It’s not a veggie taste, it's more like the taste you would get if you licked a hop pellet. Which is crazy because I’ve tried every method i can think of to filter out the hop particles, none have resulted in what I am looking for. My question is how can I get the fantastic flavor and aroma that hops bring, without the hop pellet aftertaste? If i reduce dry hopping it helps but then I lose the tiny bit of flavor and aroma I had. I’ve tried waiting weeks for the beer to condition and the hop pellet taste starts to disappear but at that time so does the little aroma and flavor it had. As far as filtering, I’ve tried mesh bags, keg filters, and inline filters. Each of them work to some degree but the beer still doesn’t have that smooth taste I'm looking for. It often tastes somewhat tropical nothing like the beers I drink commercially but then finishes with that astringent hop taste. My whirlpool and dry hopping rates are not nearly as high many of the recipes I’ve seen online. I have tried lowering the rates but like i said the little bit of flavor i had is gone if i drop the numbers too much.

I know this is an extremely hard question to answer without knowing my equipment, recipe, hop schedule, etc so I’ve included all of that below.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Equipment:
  • 10 Gal cooler for mashing
  • 12Gal Spike brewing kettle
  • Hop stopper screen for kettle - Allows hops to roam free but stops them from entering the fermenter
  • Spike CF5 ( 5Gal Conical) Fermenter - My christmas present this year!
    • Temp control system, cold and warm. Inkbird to help keep temps with 1 degree of my setting
    • CO2 closed loop transfer kit to move beer from FV to keg without any O2 introduction.
  • Keg and draft system

Recipe: ( NEIPA aiming for a piney fruity flavor and aroma profile)
  • Grain
    • 2-row - 68%
    • Oats malted - 20%
    • Oats flaked - 10%
    • Caramalt - 2%
  • Hops - Going for a piney / citrus profile (think alien church from Tired Hands)
    • All hot side hops are added in two additions after flameout.
    • Whirlpool - added hops below at 175 degrees (total 3oz)
      • No bag, i have a screen (hop stopper) to filter hops & trub
      • Mosaic - .75 oz
      • Citra - .75 oz
      • Centennial - .50 oz
      • Chinook - .50 oz
      • Columbus - .50 oz
    • Whirlpool - added hops below at 160 degrees (total 3oz)
      • No bag, i have a screen (hop stopper) to filter hops & trub
      • Mosaic - .75 oz
      • Citra - .75 oz
      • Centennial - .50 oz
      • Chinook - .50 oz
      • Columbus - .50 oz
  • Dry hopping
    • No bag, i have a screen (hop stopper keg version) to filter hops
    • DH #1 - 4 days (4 oz total)
      • In fermentation conical
      • No bag
      • 4 days from pitching
        • Mosaic - 1.0 oz
        • Citra - 1.0 oz
        • Chinook - 1.0 oz
        • Centennial - .50 oz
        • Columbus - .50 oz
DH #2 - 4 days (2 oz total)
In fermentation conical
  • No bag
  • 4 days from pitching
  • Mosaic - .50 oz
  • Citra - .50 oz
  • Chinook - .50 oz
  • Centennial - .25 oz
  • Columbus - .25 oz
Brewing Notes:
  • Yeast = Juice from Imperial
    • 1.5L starter 3 days prior to brew day
  • Water profile
    • Calcium: 115, Magnesium: 5, Sodium: 0, Sulfate: 100, Chloride: 200
  • Mash Temp: 155 for 60mins
  • Boil time: 60 mins
  • Whirlpool 10 mins
  • Eff: 69%
  • Batch size (into the fermenter) - 5.5 Gal
  • OG = 1.065 - 1.070
  • FG = 1.018 - 1.021
  • ABV 7.0 - 7.2
  • Fermentation
    • 4 days at 65
    • 4 days at 70
  • Cold crash after fermentation is complete
    • 50 degrees for 3 days
  • Closed loop transfer from FV to keg using Co2
  • Carb at 2.0 vols for 10 days
  • Serve at 8 psi
 
Last edited:
Have you tried cryo hops? Look them up: lots of flavor and aroma without a lot of vegetable matter.
 
I've read about them but haven't used them yet. Definitely willing to give them a shot though. Maybe I'll try half regular & half cryo in whirlpool and just cryo for dry hopping.

Thanks for the recommendation!
 
I've used those same hops in neipa's numerous times and I don't get that same experience.
But I never put pellets in a serving keg - I'll use whole leaf for that, in a sanitized muslin bag put in cold and left in 'til the keg kicks.

So I wonder if that keg screen is letting hop residue/fragments through. That would explain the bite...

Cheers!
 
I've used those same hops in neipa's numerous times and I don't get that same experience.
But I never put pellets in a serving keg - I'll use whole leaf for that, in a sanitized muslin bag put in cold and left in 'til the keg kicks.

So I wonder if that keg screen is letting hop residue/fragments through. That would explain the bite...

Cheers!

Ahhh that's a really good point. That could definitely be the case. Filtering has always been a pain point for me.

Do you use pellets for the hot side only? I've never used whole leaf before but that could be another option.
 
[...]Do you use pellets for the hot side only? I've never used whole leaf before but that could be another option.

Oh, no, I actually use a crapload of pellets - in the kettle and in the fermentors - for neipas. And, honestly, I've never keg-hopped an neipa because they come out of the fermentor as total juice bombs already so there's no point in jacking the voltage any higher :)

But...I always do a 48 hour cold-crash (under light CO2 head pressure) after the last round of dry hops, and when I transfer to kegs I have a piece of nylon mesh bag rubber-banded to the end of the racking cane to catch any stray hop fragments...

Cheers!
 
I really like that approach, I'm going to try that on my next batch. I'll do all of my dry hopping in my fermenter, cold crash and filter before it hits the keg. My dry hop will consist of pellets and either cryo or whole leaf; going to try both in separate batches.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone, I'll report back as I try these.
 
Could your water profile be adding to this? 2:1 Chloride:Sulphate certainly won’t be helping the hops shine?
 
Actually, that's in the ballpark - one end of it, anyway - for neipas. 150:75 to 200:100 are frequently recommended.
Chloride vs sulfate is a tradeoff of "pop" vs "softness". The bias towards the former is favored for wcipas for sure, while neipas are known for their soft mouthfeel thus favor bias towards the latter...

Cheers!
 
In addition to the tips above I'm going to try some of the suggestions below. Posted by ttuato, summarized from Scott's new book. Going to grab a copy today.

Reference Link:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-221

Fermentation tips:
  • Overpitch yeast - leads to increased esters (this was new info to me - not sure I will try this though)
  • Pitch warm (3-5 degrees higher than top of your specific yeast temp range) and continue chilling to desired temp ---- leads to increased esters and possibly greater glycerol (max glycerol production in first 18hrs) (this was new info to me- definitely gonna do this since summer)
  • Ferment on the warm side of the schedule - (temp that highest on scale for your yeast - usually 72-74) - increases fruity esters (no surprise here)
  • Approximately 60hrs after pitch yeast, DROP the temp to lowest temp for your specific yeast (usually 60-64*) - leads to significant increase in esters. (this was new info to me - for sure gonna do this). Hold this low temp for approximately two days and add first small dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process)
  • This should have you around day 5-6. Allow the temp to freerise back to the high end of the ferm schedule for the yeast (~72-74) hold this for 5 days add another small dryhop if desired (no more than 2-3oz & make sure to do LODO process
  • Day 10-11 - Crash it to around 58* hold for a day for the yeast to crash then add final dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process). After 24hr crash completely - get the beer transferred off the final dryhop in under 48hrs
  • In case you didn't notice the recommendation is small dryhop charges spread across 2-3 charges, including a biotrans dryhop - this reduces astringency from polyphenols & "green" hop oils and increases extraction efficiency of the hops - in turn this makes the beer drinkable sooner. (Not necessarily new info but I am gonna try the triple dryhop instead of my usual double to see if different).
I like the small DH charges and using higher temps for the yeast to produce fruity esters. I'm going to try some of these for my next batch. Unfortunately that won't be for a few weeks but I'll be sure to update the thread with the results.
 

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