Been lurking the electric forums for years and built a K-Rims brewing rig with a buddy of mine a couple years ago. You may have seen this photo floating around:
I was so pleased with the performance of it that I planned to build one for myself! Plus, the ability to crank out a batch in 4 hours was very alluring! I’ve been brewing for about 6 years now using a Mini E Herms system to keep consistent mash temps, along with a bayou classic banjo burner for heating sparge water and boil.
I did about 3 batches at my new place with This set up and was reminded of the time it took to heat up water, get to a boil, and always needing propane. I finally took the plunge and ordered the components to build my panel. I have a 240v 30a outlet downstairs by my dryer at my disposal and it’ll be where I can brew regardless of the weather.
So, taking some inspiration from Kal’s set up, and skrilnetz.net panel build and Joe Aka Terpsichoreankid on Youtube, I knew I wanted to build a simple single PID, one element and one pump panel. I’ll be doing full volume no sparge kettle rims brewing since the other system has been working so great and more importantly, cutting down time it takes to brew.
Here’s the day after getting some items in, and planning placement:
Next, tons of measuring and re-measuring and double triple checking, I cut the holes using a jigsaw and step bit:
Next step is Paint which I should be able to get accomplished tonight. I’m beyond excited to start wiring!
Things Left to Order/Do:
-Prep and Paint Enclosure
-Install Panel Components, switches, lights, PID, etc
-Begin Wiring
-Test
-Order Element, and 10/3 Cable for HotRod Heatstick. I currently have a 2000w 120v element in there with 12/3 cable...which I'm on the fence about using for 5500w element. Pros/cons would be appreciated (plus it would save me some extra work).
-Power Wire and figure out if I'm going to put in a GFCI Breaker or go the Spa Panel Route.
I've ordered a couple 1/2" Detachable RTD's from Amazon, and have received a 4 pin detached cable. I returned the first one for being a 4 pin and wanting the 3 pin since that's what it looks like everyone is using and got another 4 pin in the mail yesterday. Main reason for going with the 3 Pin is because I want to get a 2nd RTD to install through the T in my boil gettle (will need RTD with 6" long probe) and I noticed that Auber Ins has that with 3 pin RTD. Anyone else using 4 pin?
I was so pleased with the performance of it that I planned to build one for myself! Plus, the ability to crank out a batch in 4 hours was very alluring! I’ve been brewing for about 6 years now using a Mini E Herms system to keep consistent mash temps, along with a bayou classic banjo burner for heating sparge water and boil.
I did about 3 batches at my new place with This set up and was reminded of the time it took to heat up water, get to a boil, and always needing propane. I finally took the plunge and ordered the components to build my panel. I have a 240v 30a outlet downstairs by my dryer at my disposal and it’ll be where I can brew regardless of the weather.
So, taking some inspiration from Kal’s set up, and skrilnetz.net panel build and Joe Aka Terpsichoreankid on Youtube, I knew I wanted to build a simple single PID, one element and one pump panel. I’ll be doing full volume no sparge kettle rims brewing since the other system has been working so great and more importantly, cutting down time it takes to brew.
Here’s the day after getting some items in, and planning placement:
Next, tons of measuring and re-measuring and double triple checking, I cut the holes using a jigsaw and step bit:
Next step is Paint which I should be able to get accomplished tonight. I’m beyond excited to start wiring!
Things Left to Order/Do:
-Prep and Paint Enclosure
-Install Panel Components, switches, lights, PID, etc
-Begin Wiring
-Test
-Order Element, and 10/3 Cable for HotRod Heatstick. I currently have a 2000w 120v element in there with 12/3 cable...which I'm on the fence about using for 5500w element. Pros/cons would be appreciated (plus it would save me some extra work).
-Power Wire and figure out if I'm going to put in a GFCI Breaker or go the Spa Panel Route.
I've ordered a couple 1/2" Detachable RTD's from Amazon, and have received a 4 pin detached cable. I returned the first one for being a 4 pin and wanting the 3 pin since that's what it looks like everyone is using and got another 4 pin in the mail yesterday. Main reason for going with the 3 Pin is because I want to get a 2nd RTD to install through the T in my boil gettle (will need RTD with 6" long probe) and I noticed that Auber Ins has that with 3 pin RTD. Anyone else using 4 pin?
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