Huaco said:Why the need for a regulator at the tank as well as the additional 2 regulators at the controlled gas valves?
Why the need for a regulator at the tank as well as the additional 2 regulators at the controlled gas valves?
furnace gas valves will not work above 3 psi. If you used a low pressure regulator at the tank, the boil kettle would take much longer to come up to boiling point due to the reduced btus.
Spoke with Derrin @ Brewers Hardware, LLC. and his recommendation is is 2" of distance from a Banjo running low pressure LP (11" w/c) to the Vessel Bottom. Im going to try this tomorrow and report back
Did this in the hour after work... Its a start.
The jlandin removable control panel is money.
I built a panel just like it, and I've got a very strange voltage reading. I was checking the 24v lead to the honeywell valve, and it measured 62 volts! It did that with both valves . I checked the transformer output, and it was 27, which is fine. What's causing it?
jlandin said:Are you running the 24V source through the PID? If you have the SYL2362 PID, check the manual (here) section 10.3 and make sure your wiring is correct.
Yes, I'm sending the 24v line to an hoa switch, then to the 13 pin. The 14 pin is going to the coaxial panel mount. The neutral on the panel mount is going to the neutral bus.
You'll have to use your multimeter to test the circuit at each point. Test the voltage at the 24V output (pre-switch), post-switch into PID, PID output (directly), and the coaxial output connector. Also check the voltages when you have your switch in "Manual/On" mode.
The manual/on mode reads 62V also. Preswitch it's 27V. PID output is 62V. I didn't check the post-switch into the PID. I'll do that when I get home.
Do you think it could be the switch? I'm not using a SPDT. I picked up the wrong one, and it's a DPDT. I'm only using 3 of the 6 pins though. The auto/off/manual functions work, but do you think it could possibly be changing my voltage? That's the only thing I can think of.
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