I'll post info and pictures as things proceed.
I had a 50 amp 240v GFCI outlet installed on Tuesday. The electrician figured out what it was for as it is labeled as "Brewery" in the breaker box!
![20191217_162805[1].jpg](https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/data/attach/598/598245-20191217-162805-1-.jpg "20191217_162805[1].jpg")
I just received an Adcraft 208V induction unit on Monday. I've been thinking about that for quite a long time as I'd like to go induction, but the 208V had me nervous. A number of people are running them at 240V and reporting no issues, so we'll see what happens.
I plan to run a hybrid system that can be used as either a single vessel recirculating BIAB (using a basket) or as a kettle rims system for really high gravity stouts. Here's my build plan:
15G EBIAB kettle - I'm going to order from Spike. It'll have a TC port for a heating element, but it will not be used unless the induction burner is a failure. I'm also having a TC port at the top for a steam slayer installed, along with the usual drain port and thermo port. Not sure about a WP port as I have a SS cane attached to my Hydra that I WP with now. It works well, not sure I want to spend $$ to change that.
10G Brewbuilt kettle - I already have this and I'll use this as my RIMS/Boil kettle when I do kettle RIMS. That's the nice thing about induction, any induction capable kettle can be used without modding for a heating element. The 15G spike will be the mash tun, again using the basket for easy cleanup.
Grain Basket - I'll order from Utah Biodiesel. I want to go with the shortest feet that will clear the drain port. I'm planning to go with solid sides except for the bottom 4". I already have a ratcheting block and tackle system to hoist the bag from my cooler mash tun, so I'm good to go with that.
Induction burner - described above. Doing this to reduce the space at the bottom of the kettle that can't hold grain. I'm really surprised nobody has come out with a purpose built induction brewing rig. Perhaps cost and reliability are issues?
For the controller, I'm still struggling to choose between three different models from Auber. The Cube is the cheapest, and does pretty much everything I need for now, but I would really prefer a wall mount. I could put a shelf on the wall, but with the connections on the back, I'd need probably a 12" deep shelf. Plus, the shallow part of me thinks it doesn't look as cool. Then they have the customized brew control box. This seems like a sweet spot for price to features, but is pushing $600 when I get it the way I want it (power system E and either style 4 or style 6...can't decide if I'll ever need 2 pumps). Finally, they have their wall mount BIAB controller. It's the most expensive, but does offer the alarm and support for two pumps. I'm having a hard time justifying this one.
Chugger pump - already have this. Will use for recirculating the mash and for whirlpooling.
Hydra Chiller - I already have this and it works great. I love the easy cleanup and not having to worry about wort going through hidden areas like you have with counterflow and plate chillers. Unless you're brewing big batch, I think immersion is the way to go.
The new house has a craft room with built in desk for my wife, so I'm inheriting the kitchen-counter-based craft table she used to use for crafts as my brew table. I'm going to put the boil RIMS/MIAB/Boil kettle on a 4 wheel dolly from Harbor Freight. I like them lower and that way, when doing kettle RIMS, I can gravity feed from the mash tun (on the brew table) and pump back up to it from the RIMS kettle.
Everything else will be the same: motorized grain mill, ferment in a BmB using a chest freezer and inkbird to control temps.
This is all going in an 11' x 11' wing off my garage. Living in Iowa, it gets pretty cold in the winter, so I just had a garage furnace installed this week. It'll keep it at 70 degrees if necessary.
I'll post pics of the space and stuff this weekend. Right now it's full of boxes from the move, but now that I have heat, I'm going to start organizing things.
I had a 50 amp 240v GFCI outlet installed on Tuesday. The electrician figured out what it was for as it is labeled as "Brewery" in the breaker box!
I just received an Adcraft 208V induction unit on Monday. I've been thinking about that for quite a long time as I'd like to go induction, but the 208V had me nervous. A number of people are running them at 240V and reporting no issues, so we'll see what happens.
I plan to run a hybrid system that can be used as either a single vessel recirculating BIAB (using a basket) or as a kettle rims system for really high gravity stouts. Here's my build plan:
15G EBIAB kettle - I'm going to order from Spike. It'll have a TC port for a heating element, but it will not be used unless the induction burner is a failure. I'm also having a TC port at the top for a steam slayer installed, along with the usual drain port and thermo port. Not sure about a WP port as I have a SS cane attached to my Hydra that I WP with now. It works well, not sure I want to spend $$ to change that.
10G Brewbuilt kettle - I already have this and I'll use this as my RIMS/Boil kettle when I do kettle RIMS. That's the nice thing about induction, any induction capable kettle can be used without modding for a heating element. The 15G spike will be the mash tun, again using the basket for easy cleanup.
Grain Basket - I'll order from Utah Biodiesel. I want to go with the shortest feet that will clear the drain port. I'm planning to go with solid sides except for the bottom 4". I already have a ratcheting block and tackle system to hoist the bag from my cooler mash tun, so I'm good to go with that.
Induction burner - described above. Doing this to reduce the space at the bottom of the kettle that can't hold grain. I'm really surprised nobody has come out with a purpose built induction brewing rig. Perhaps cost and reliability are issues?
For the controller, I'm still struggling to choose between three different models from Auber. The Cube is the cheapest, and does pretty much everything I need for now, but I would really prefer a wall mount. I could put a shelf on the wall, but with the connections on the back, I'd need probably a 12" deep shelf. Plus, the shallow part of me thinks it doesn't look as cool. Then they have the customized brew control box. This seems like a sweet spot for price to features, but is pushing $600 when I get it the way I want it (power system E and either style 4 or style 6...can't decide if I'll ever need 2 pumps). Finally, they have their wall mount BIAB controller. It's the most expensive, but does offer the alarm and support for two pumps. I'm having a hard time justifying this one.
Chugger pump - already have this. Will use for recirculating the mash and for whirlpooling.
Hydra Chiller - I already have this and it works great. I love the easy cleanup and not having to worry about wort going through hidden areas like you have with counterflow and plate chillers. Unless you're brewing big batch, I think immersion is the way to go.
The new house has a craft room with built in desk for my wife, so I'm inheriting the kitchen-counter-based craft table she used to use for crafts as my brew table. I'm going to put the boil RIMS/MIAB/Boil kettle on a 4 wheel dolly from Harbor Freight. I like them lower and that way, when doing kettle RIMS, I can gravity feed from the mash tun (on the brew table) and pump back up to it from the RIMS kettle.
Everything else will be the same: motorized grain mill, ferment in a BmB using a chest freezer and inkbird to control temps.
This is all going in an 11' x 11' wing off my garage. Living in Iowa, it gets pretty cold in the winter, so I just had a garage furnace installed this week. It'll keep it at 70 degrees if necessary.
I'll post pics of the space and stuff this weekend. Right now it's full of boxes from the move, but now that I have heat, I'm going to start organizing things.
