My E-HERMS Build - LOTS OF PICS

[SeanGC]

So this might seem like a dumb question or it might have even been answered before but I know you mentioned that you are using one element and are just switching from the HLT to the BK when needed. When you are sparging into the BK what is preventing the wort from escaping through the element hole? I can see the element in the HLT as you are recirculating in the pictures so what is blocking the BK hole? Or do you simply move the element into the BK before sparging? (which would be hard to maintain your HLT sparge temps)

 

[rsklhm10]

So this might seem like a dumb question or it might have even been answered before but I know you mentioned that you are using one element and are just switching from the HLT to the BK when needed. When you are sparging into the BK what is preventing the wort from escaping through the element hole? I can see the element in the HLT as you are recirculating in the pictures so what is blocking the BK hole? Or do you simply move the element into the BK before sparging? (which would be hard to maintain your HLT sparge temps)

What he meant by that is he has an element mounted in both the HLT and BK, but only has on 'element receptacle' in the back of the control panel using a single PID. Thus, when he wants to run the BK, he has to unplug the HLT element from the panel and plug in the BK element. He does not actually switch the element into the BK from the HLT.

 

[ahave]

wanted to keep enough clearance for the element and pickup tube below.

the coild doesn't rest on anything. it is held up completely by the swagelok fittings and it's own strength

I am looking to make a similar electric herms HLT out of a ss immersion cooler. Is it possible to mount it lower and still keep clearances for the element? I understand that a 50 ft coil probably doesn't need to entirely submerged for decent heat exchange, but it would help. Is there room to lower the coil or is it pretty much on top of the element now?

Are you happy with the current setup? Would you design anything differently for the herms tank?

 

[SeanGC]

What he meant by that is he has an element mounted in both the HLT and BK, but only has on 'element receptacle' in the back of the control panel using a single PID. Thus, when he wants to run the BK, he has to unplug the HLT element from the panel and plug in the BK element. He does not actually switch the element into the BK from the HLT.

Ahhh ok makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up.

P.s. amazing and inspiring build.

 

[jpalarchio]

i really liked the idea of the element adapter, and I also have alot of 1.5" TC in my brewery. It's well built, affordable, and I don't have to worry about leaks or building an enclosure, etc.

I'm going the same route with a welded ferrule and the element adapter from Brewers Hardware.

I was curious how you handled the grounding?

My adapter is on order and I understand there's a ground lug inside it. Any grounding to the kettle? I assume if there's a gasket between the ferrule and adapter, there's no ground continuity there. Maybe don't use a gasket since you're not looking for a leak tight connection there anyhow?

 

[canyonbrewer]

I'm going the same route with a welded ferrule and the element adapter from Brewers Hardware.

I was curious how you handled the grounding?

My adapter is on order and I understand there's a ground lug inside it. Any grounding to the kettle? I assume if there's a gasket between the ferrule and adapter, there's no ground continuity there. Maybe don't use a gasket since you're not looking for a leak tight connection there anyhow?

I use the grounding lug inside the adapter. Even with a gasket, the tri clover clamp creates continuity to the kettle.

 

[canyonbrewer]

What he meant by that is he has an element mounted in both the HLT and BK, but only has on 'element receptacle' in the back of the control panel using a single PID. Thus, when he wants to run the BK, he has to unplug the HLT element from the panel and plug in the BK element. He does not actually switch the element into the BK from the HLT.

Thanks rsklhm! You are exactly correct!

 

[canyonbrewer]

I am looking to make a similar electric herms HLT out of a ss immersion cooler. Is it possible to mount it lower and still keep clearances for the element? I understand that a 50 ft coil probably doesn't need to entirely submerged for decent heat exchange, but it would help. Is there room to lower the coil or is it pretty much on top of the element now?

Are you happy with the current setup? Would you design anything differently for the herms tank?

There is probably a little room to go lower, but my coil is completely submerged during the entire mash.

I think Maybe the coil is wound a little too tight and perfectly in the vertical plane. The coils touch each other, and if it were looser vertically, maybe more water could get in between and be more efficient.

Overall very happy with the rig. Will probably learn more as time goes on.

 

[SeanGC]

Will this fitting fit on the OD of the SS IC coil?

Swagelok Male Elbow, 1/2 in. Tube x 1/2 NPT SS-810-2-8 on eBay!

 

[jpalarchio]

I use the grounding lug inside the adapter. Even with a gasket, the tri clover clamp creates continuity to the kettle.

Of course! Makes sense; forgot about the clamp. Thanks for the common sense input.

Looking forward to getting my element adapter; the pictures of it look great.

 

[canyonbrewer]

Will this fitting fit on the OD of the SS IC coil?

Swagelok Male Elbow, 1/2 in. Tube x 1/2 NPT SS-810-2-8 on eBay!

yes, that is the exact same fitting I used.

if you read my post on installing the coil (post #30), you will see that I ended up drilling out the compression nut to fit around the coil. The coiling process put it into an oval shape that caused it not to fit out of box.

depending on your coil, you may not have to do this.

 

[nhwrecker]

Great looking build. What did you do to get that satin finish on the keggles? They look awesome.

 

[xsists]

what are you using for a hop filter? hop bag or some sort of hop stopper in the kettle?

Great looking build. What did you do to get that satin finish on the keggles? They look awesome.

Looks like they could be Sabco kegs.

 

[canyonbrewer]

what are you using for a hop filter? hop bag or some sort of hop stopper in the kettle?



Looks like they could be Sabco kegs.

they are sabco

 

[canyonbrewer]

what are you using for a hop filter? hop bag or some sort of hop stopper in the kettle?
/QUOTE]

Boil kettle has a false bottom that will stop whole hops. I have also been using a hop spider with a nylon paint bag for pellets.

Recently, i just purchased the trub filter from Derrin at Brewer's Hardware, and I plan on using it for the next brew. I want to try without a hop bag...and throw the hops directly in the BK.

 

[Pez]

Also got the internal pump wiring in place, installed the threaded inserts from McMaster and put on my caster city casters.

QUOTE]

Amazing build. Do you happen to have the McMaster P/N for the threaded caster inserts?

 

[canyonbrewer]

Also got the internal pump wiring in place, installed the threaded inserts from McMaster and put on my caster city casters.

QUOTE]

Amazing build. Do you happen to have the McMaster P/N for the threaded caster inserts?

Thanks!

Sure - part number - 60945K31

I was using 2x2 0.120 wall with 1/2" 13 threads per inch casters from caster city.com

 

[andymi86]

what are you using for a hop filter? hop bag or some sort of hop stopper in the kettle?
/QUOTE]

Boil kettle has a false bottom that will stop whole hops. I have also been using a hop spider with a nylon paint bag for pellets.

Recently, i just purchased the trub filter from Derrin at Brewer's Hardware, and I plan on using it for the next brew. I want to try without a hop bag...and throw the hops directly in the BK.

I've been eyeing that. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

 

[Bobby_M]

Use this for your mash recirc/sparge. It's good stuff...

http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/114-mashtube

 

[WAORGANY]

Use this for your mash recirc/sparge. It's good stuff...

http://www.brewhardware.com/accessories/114-mashtube

That looks pretty cool Bobby I might have to get one of those for my MLT thanks.

 

[canyonbrewer]

This was my 2nd brew on the E-Herms. 11 Gallons of Robust Porter. Got 90% efficiency. very happy with everything.

I'll try to put these in chronological order:

first things first...checking the FG of my Haus Pale Ale - its excellent - drinking one now:

Video - Heating Strike Water



getting some grains crushed

video - mash in



video - mash temp check - e-herms quickly brought it back up to 152 and it stayed there the entire time.



video - fly sparging




video - almost to boil....ended up boiling at 60% element power




video - chilling wort



was really happy with the Trub filter from brewershardware.com. I had 3 total oz of hops (2 pellet, 1 whole) - it caught everything and kept my plate chiller clean. no more hop sack!

false bottom caught some too

after brew snack...

ever been to the flying saucer? we love a bratzel...especially with homemade kielbasa

 

[iijakii]

Oh man that's fantastic.

 

[canyonbrewer]

also wanted to post my new cleaning tool - no more scrubbing!

 

[rsklhm10]

Flying Saucer... Awesome place, I finishe a plate at the Columbia Saucer before we moved. Unfortunately, my wife and I ended up moving to FL so I don't really go other than when we are there visiting family. If everything goes right, we should be moving back to Columbia towards the end of the summer.

Did you go to the beer festival last weekend? We were VIP at the afternoon session.

Also, system looks great! Awesome work.

 

[rustybeer]

Love the build , who's false bottom and size did you use ?
Also who's hop's filter is that.

Thanks

 

[canyonbrewer]

Love the build , who's false bottom and size did you use ?
Also who's hop's filter is that.

Thanks

sabco false bottom - 15 inch

that is derrins trub filter - brewershardware.com

 

[Brew52]

That's an Awsome! build. I just bought 2 keggles from Sabco and I also bought the same trub filter from brewers hardware. Thanks to you I'm glad to see that it will work the way I planned. Are you happy with the Sabco thermometers? I plan to buy 3 of them (BK,MT, & Chiller). Thanks again for your post. It is very helpful to anyone planning a "new build" like myself.

 

[canyonbrewer]

That's an Awsome! build. I just bought 2 keggles from Sabco and I also bought the same trub filter from brewers hardware. Thanks to you I'm glad to see that it will work the way I planned. Are you happy with the Sabco thermometers? I plan to buy 3 of them (BK,MT, & Chiller). Thanks again for your post. It is very helpful to anyone planning a "new build" like myself.

Thanks for the comments. Yes...I've been happy with the sabco thermos.

Good luck with your build!!

 

[rsklhm10]

Where did you source the Swagelok fittings for your HERMS coil? I haven't been able to find a supplier with the 90* 5/8 tube x 1/2 npt.

 

[bagpiperjosh]

great setup... ill be taking a notes on this when i build my own someday..

ok stupid question.. im still trying to wrap my brain around the e-herms system..

so you have 2 thermometers? one in the HLT and one in the MLT?
i notice that the temp in from the HLT to the MLT was off by about 4 degrees, is that just due to temp loss then? so you would have to account for that when you would want a mash temp of say 155 deg so you would set your HLT to 159 each time?

thanks

 

[Maltose]

Canyon-

I had a 4-5 degree difference in my old keggle eherms system. I ordered some of the black foam insulation from McMaster and hit temps dead on with 0 differential after. Good stuff.

 

[canyonbrewer]

Where did you source the Swagelok fittings for your HERMS coil? I haven't been able to find a supplier with the 90* 5/8 tube x 1/2 npt.

eBay. part number is in this thread some where. Had to drill out the nut. See the pics

 

[canyonbrewer]

great setup... ill be taking a notes on this when i build my own someday..

ok stupid question.. im still trying to wrap my brain around the e-herms system..

so you have 2 thermometers? one in the HLT and one in the MLT?
i notice that the temp in from the HLT to the MLT was off by about 4 degrees, is that just due to temp loss then? so you would have to account for that when you would want a mash temp of say 155 deg so you would set your HLT to 159 each time?

thanks

Correct. One in HLT output. One in mlt output (as it leaves the mlt, before entering the herms coil)

It was pretty cold here on that brew....so I think I am loosing temp through hoses and poor insulation. I've also noticed that I have to really stir after dough in. Way more than I ever would have thought. That helps a lot.

And yes, PID controls HLT water temp. I adjust HLT temp to hit my mash temp right on.

I haven't been doing a good job of taking the mash temp in the center on the grain. I am going to focus on that more next brew. I've just been manually measuring the wort exiting the herms coil...and it always matches the HLT temp.

 

[DrPhilGood]

Oh that compression swagelok is 5/82ths?? Damn

 

[JoshuaWhite5522]

what pump are you using for the carboy washer? I'm looking to do the same thing.

 

[canyonbrewer]

what pump are you using for the carboy washer? I'm looking to do the same thing.

Wayne sscdu790

 

[milldoggy]

Oh that compression swagelok is 5/82ths?? Damn

It is 1/2 npt x 1/2 compression. He is using a midwest IC, which is 1/2 OD. He had to drill the nut out some because the coiling process made the tube oval.

 

[TinTurtle]

Of all the DIY systems I have seen so far I keep coming back to this one. Very slick how you worked this out.

 

[rsklhm10]

It is 1/2 npt x 1/2 compression. He is using a midwest IC, which is 1/2 OD. He had to drill the nut out some because the coiling process made the tube oval.

I believe the midwest IC is actually 1/2" ID. That's why so many people have been using it, as it does not cause a restriction in flow. Thus, the compression would be a 5/8 tube (i.e. 5/8 OD).

After looking at the midwest website, the midwest IC is 5/8 OD and .436 (1/2) ID. A 5/8 compression is the ticket. He drilled it out because the coiling takes the tubing out of round....

 

[milldoggy]

I believe the midwest IC is actually 1/2" ID. That's why so many people have been using it, as it does not cause a restriction in flow. Thus, the compression would be a 5/8 tube (i.e. 5/8 OD).

After looking at the midwest website, the midwest IC is 5/8 OD and .436 (1/2) ID. A 5/8 compression is the ticket. He drilled it out because the coiling takes the tubing out of round....

U mean this
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stai...ort-chiller-w-garden-hose-fittings-50-ft.html
That is 1/2 od. .436 id + .03 +.03 = .5ish

So you want a 1/2 compression.